Recomendation needed for brush and vine control

[chain]

We have certain tree lines, fence lines, ditch banks, RR rights-of-way that brushed over to where invasive trees, shrubs, and vines are encroaching upon crops and seedling plantings. What herbicides are available for dormant spray this fall-winter to control heavy brush, i.e., hackberry, sassafras, cedar, autumn olive, japanese honeysuckle, red-vine, possum grape, and a tough one, horsetail/sedge?

[beenthere]

chain
I use a basal bark spray (Tahoe®) mixed with diesel fuel and find it effective for buckthorn.

Here is one link that might help.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/for-fact/0045.html

[zopi]

Product called pramitol....can get it at tsc, or other ag outlets...hit it with a bushog and immediately spray it...it is a 30 percent dimethylamine salt concentrate...it is like brush begone on steroids....do not overspray that stuff on cropland though...gotta be careful with it...but ot is like thor's hammer on brush.

[WDH]

Garlon is one of the best broadleaf herbicides.  Tahoe is formulated with Garlon (triclopyr) as an ingredient.  You can also get the generic version of Garlon which is Element Herbicide.  You may have to have a pesticide license to buy Garlon or Element.  Not sure about Tahoe, but beenthere will know. 

I think that it is too late to foliar spray now as the leaves are falling.  You can use the basal spray that beenthere referenced year round, but that requires you to spray the base of each plant rather than boradcast spray.  Google these herbicides and you can get the label on a PDF file.  It will give you all the instructions on the ways that it can be used.

If it was me, I would use Garlon, Tahoe, or Element herbicide for what you are needing.  The good thing is that triclopyr is not soil active like some other formulations.  You don't want to mess up the soil on the edge of your field.

[chain]

Yes, my window of opportunity for foliar spray is closing quickly as frost is forecast the next couple of mornings. All good suggestions, but this 'overgrowth,' is one of the problems that comes along with minmum till and no-till practices. Even summertime weed maintenance is very slack in regards to neighboring entities. For instance, the gray dogwood species, almost unheard of a decade ago is rapidly spreading  on just about every parcel of ground not cultivated or mowed, it spreads off shoots from root system.

[WDH]

If it is Brer Rabbit thick, you might have to wait until next spring after full leaf-out to spray that area. Basal spray or hack-n-squirt are hard to do if there are a million stems (a little less than a whack  ;D) since you have to treat each and every individual stem.  A broadcast spray is indiscriminate and much faster. 

[chain]

I like Zopi's idea of brush-hog  'n spray. We have a so-called 'ditch bank mower' that I use occasionally. I raise the wing at a 90 or 45 and shear back vines, limbs, shrub and small tree tops. On questionable areas where I may not want a strong permanent herbicide to damage the soil, what about using a strong dose of Round-up, like as recommended for girdling? R-up is very cheap presently.

[WDH]

Roundup will work on some species, not so well on a number of others.  Garlon will do a better job than Roundup on the species that you listed, but it does cost a lot more.  You might try the Roundup and do a repeat application if you don't get everything the first time.  Even then, there might be some species that are not controlled.

BTW, Garlon and Roundup are no different in soil activity.  Neither is soil active.  However, pramitol is soil active and is used where total control is wanted like on industrial sites, lumberyards, etc. 

Be sure and read the labels.

[Ironwood]

I have little to no experience in these matters, thanks to all for your input. Learning mo everyday......

Ironwood