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Author Topic: Which glue?  (Read 3199 times)

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Offline Busy Beaver Lumber

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #20 on: December 22, 2011, 10:22:09 AM »
Norm

When I glue up boards, if there is a lot of glue protrusion, I take a few seconds and hit the glue with a belt sander rather than scrape it prior to running it through the surface planer. Have found this to be much easier than scraping it off. Comes off real quick, but make sure you have safety glasses and long sleeved shirt on because it will toss the glue pieces at you with a fair amount of force. As previously mentioned, getting rid of the excess glue allows the glued up board to sit flatter on the planner infeed and outfeed tables.
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Offline Norm

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #21 on: December 22, 2011, 10:31:45 AM »
Thank you.  :)

Offline metalspinner

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #22 on: December 22, 2011, 03:30:24 PM »
Norm,
If you don't scrape that glue first, I would anticipate sanding about 2" into the length of your board before the drum sander started thumping around and a funny smelling smoke enveloped the shop.  This is followed immediately by a dark black burned streak on your project board as it exits the sander with a corrosponding burned ring on your sanding belt. ::)

Bloodwood will do the same thing without any glue. ::)  I found that out this morning. >:(
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Offline Dodgy Loner

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #23 on: December 22, 2011, 06:58:51 PM »
I always wipe off any excess glue when it's still wet. The beads are rough on tools, but the glue joints themselves don't pose any problem. FWIW, I use Tightbond II or III on almost everything. I have no use for Gorilla Glue at all. It's messy and weaker than regular wood glue. Nothing I build should ever be submerged in water. I occasionally have uses for superglue (when I need an instant bond) and epoxy (for gap-filling).
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Offline Axe Handle Hound

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #24 on: December 22, 2011, 07:34:12 PM »
I've always used Titebond III for my cutting boards.  The extra glue up time really helps reduce frustration.  I find epoxy to have too much creep and as others have stated, gorilla glue is just too messy.  The epoxy and gorilla glue will both get the job done, but I just don't like working with them.

Not to get off topic, I would not advise running end grain butcher blocks through a planer.  I tried that once and only once.  A solid board went in and a bunch of chunks came out.  I then bought new blades for the planer (disposables) and got out the hand plane and sandpaper.   Edge grain blocks do just fine in the planer, but end grain not so much.  Maybe others have had a more positive experience.   

Offline jamesamd

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #25 on: December 31, 2011, 10:54:08 PM »
Epoxy is not a gap filler.The thicker the gap the weaker the joint.
Epoxy is waterproof(5 minute epoxy is not).While it does slide around,proper cauls and clamping will deal with it.I attach golf club heads to shafts with it,everybody does,the thinner the gap the better.
A serving board,(I would never put a knife to it)














 

Jim
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Offline Patty

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #26 on: January 01, 2012, 08:17:48 AM »
Jim that serving board is beautiful!  :o
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And when someone breaks our wings....
We simply continue to fly ........
on a broomstick.....
We are flexible like that.

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Which glue?
« Reply #27 on: January 01, 2012, 08:34:09 AM »
I'll say, and took some careful planning and cutting to get the grain lined up.  :)
Move'n on.


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