iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

?s for the circle sawyers

Started by sandhills, January 04, 2012, 10:33:57 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

sandhills

Well I think my friends and I that bought the mill are finally all getting on the same page and will hopefully get it set up in the next week or two, about a year and a half later than planned.  My first question is about the different styles of teeth that came with it, there's boxes of them and I'm sorry but it got dark before I could dig through them all, it has a 52" insert blade and I've counted how many teeth but don't remember anymore, here's a pic of a few different types



 

Just curious what the different styles are used for, some are new in the box, others are definitely used up, the teeth on the blade now resemble the 2 smaller ones in the picture if memory serves correct.  Thanks for any and all information.

Ron Wenrich

The shank on the right is a winter shank.  It has that extension in the gullet.  The other shank is called a summer shank.  Most guys in my area run a winter shank and a summer tooth all year long.  The extension breaks up the dust velocity in the gullet and doesn't allow it to spill out as quickly.

Both of the teeth are summer teeth.  The one on the left is new, and the other is used but probably still has some life in it.  Separate the new from the old.  I don't like to mix and match tooth length if I don't have to.

There is also a standall bit, which I don't see you having.  It has an extension on the tooth area and works as a winter tooth.  Don't use them with winter shanks.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

RSteiner

Ron described perfectly the differences in shanks and teeth.  Not to over state the obvious, the shank holds the tooth in the saw and it is important they fit tightly.  Shanks can wear in two places,  where they contact the saw and where the sawdust collects.  I always put oil on the shanks where they contact the blade when I change teeth, I also oil the tooth.  Shanks that are worn where the sawdust collects can cause sawdust spillage which can put heat into the saw blade. 

Loose shanks can liberate themselves from the blade when it is turning which can be dangerous. A 52" diameter blade turning say 200 RPM has a surface speed on the rim of over 2700 feet per minute at that velocity the tooth and shank are lie a bullet.

Randy
Randy

sandhills

Thank you for the explanations, is there any advantage/disadvantage to the single piece ones (like the 2 on the right) compared to the others?  Well, I guess you'd have to replace everything if the bit was bad, maybe I answered my own question  ???.

eastberkshirecustoms

Quote from: sandhills on January 05, 2012, 09:43:10 AM
Thank you for the explanations, is there any advantage/disadvantage to the single piece ones (like the 2 on the right) compared to the others? 
Just to re-phrase one more time. There is no 'advantage/disadvantage' as you ask. You need both. The two on the right are shanks that hold the teeth (on the left) into the blade.

Not too long ago, I sold boxes of new/used shanks and teeth with the  tools and a sharpener on ebay.  I wish I had offered them up here to my fellow members. :(

sandhills

Thanks eastberkshirecustoms, nevermind, I now see what you're saying, the two shanks are sharp enough I thought they were actually a shank and bit in one piece. I've never taken any of these out before but I see now how it works.  I watched steamboatal's video on utube and that's about as close as I've come to changing them, still a lot to learn, sorry for the dumb questions. 

bandmiller2

Sandhills,your lucky to have a common, readily available bit and shank,Simonds is the only game in town now and thats their system.I'am running an old Diston 48" and hoarding a small supply of bits and shanks.You need a special wrench to twist out the shanks anyplace you buy bits and shanks should have one.Shanks are made in a couple of oversizes to fit loose or stretched pockets.Sawdoc is your friend,if possible pick his brain on saw maint. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

sandhills

Yeah,we got 2 of the wrenches with the saw and I've thought about sending the blade to someone before we try to use it but it was obviously being used the way it was so I think we'll give it try and see what happens.  The saw came from an estate sale, sure wish I could of met the owner and had a nice long talk him ;).

steamsawyer

Sandhills,

Steamboatal here,

I was just goofing around trying out a new camera the day I shot that video. I should have spent some time explaining what was going on.

I hit some nails in the last log I cut and rolled the edge on about half of the teeth so I thought I'd just change them out.

The bit, or tooth, on the left in your photo, is what carries the cutting edge. The shank is the holder for the tooth. The spring tension between the shank and the blade locks everything in place. This also plays a big role in the overall blade tension. A blade must be hammered or tensioned for a spaciffic rpm and that can not be done without the bits and shanks in it.

The shanks do not need to be replaced very often... The last price I got was $130 a hundred for a box of bits and $3.50 each for shanks... However they do wear out. What happens is the bottom of the bucket, or gullet wears and when the edges get rounded off it lets the chip fall out and pack around the blade, this makes the blade run hot at the rim.

When you change the teeth out be sure to clean the sawdust and gum off first then oil everything well. Clean out the open socket with a rag then oil the bit and shank just before you roll it in.

Your mileage may vary...  ;D

Alan
J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

sandhills

Thanks Alan, I didn't exactly grow up in sawmilling country and after reading all I can I've really learned a lot from this forum, but will still admit I have no idea what I'm doing and above all else I don't want anyone getting hurt.  This is a mobile Belsaw and almost everything on it works right and what doesn't will be fixed before we try it out (pto doesn't telescope, no biggie, and there is a tweek in the track right next to the blade which we have to straighten).  I think we're gonna try it out with some cottonwood to learn from, any suggestions are appreciated, and I will get a picture of that first log on the mill.

Ron Wenrich

A tweek in the track next to the blade has to be fixed so that there is not any carriage movement when the log goes through the saw.  If you don't, you will have major headaches. 

Every time that I started a new install out, I would have new teeth in the saw to discount that any problems with sawing didn't come from teeth that weren't up to snuff.  I would suggest a log that isn't too big for starters.  Don't know much about cottonwood other than its soft.   
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Sandyhills,not to worry you'll pick it up.Be sure the log is stable on the carriage and not rocking when the saw enters it.Its good form to not stand in line with the blade when its spinning.Keep a piece of sticking handy to push stuff away from the saw so you don't try it with your hands or feet.Always wear eye protection,ear is a good idea too.When the saw is in a log or cant the carriage should always be moving,dont let  anything rub on the spinning saw that will heat it. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Thank You Sponsors!