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Author Topic: dry kiln for drying bowls  (Read 12531 times)

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Offline Den Socling

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #40 on: February 14, 2004, 05:12:53 PM »
 :D Thank you for the thanks. This is pretty funny. We ate Chinese tonight and my fortune cookie said that I will be on the list of "The Excellent People" this year.  :) :D ;D 8)

I talked to people at WoodWeb about Diel's design. One problem is no heat. One guy had an idea of wrapping the wood in a heating blanket.

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #41 on: February 14, 2004, 05:33:01 PM »
  Guess ole "Confucious" was pretty smart, EH ??? :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Offline DanG

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #42 on: February 14, 2004, 09:18:35 PM »
Confucious cheated! You made the list before he baked the DanG cookie. ;D  I, too, appreciate the info you have shared, both here and on the forum on your own website.  Things move a mite slow over there, but I've learned a few things by checking in from time to time.

What I was thinking on the duct work was to put an oscillating vane in front of each opening. All the vanes could be operated by a pittman arm or bellcrank on a small gearmotor, with all the vanes connected to a common rod.  With the radiator and circulating fan located at the end, you wouldn't waste any of the precious height in an already tight space. Simple baffles along the top and bottom of the stack would isolate the duct side from the return side to keep the air flowing correctly. The lower baffle could be a permanent part of the trolley, and the upper would be a drop-curtain affair that you could raise and lower from the open end of the chamber. :P
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Offline Bill_B

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #43 on: February 15, 2004, 04:36:05 AM »
DanG
What do you think of a duct on both top and bottom of the tank. Have a fan in each. Let the air return through the lumber.
Have holes in the duct for venting.
Bill B

Offline Greg_Kaldor

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #44 on: February 15, 2004, 05:04:12 AM »
Hi all,
That freind that I have that is an instrument man in the paper mill where I work said that they have a type of heater that they use to heat vats of oil when needed.  You see that one set of plans that I had for that homemade kiln said to use a light bulb ina a tin can for heat.  Very inefficient.  With this other type of heater he said with some sensor you could controll the heat to with-in a degree.

Greg

Offline Den Socling

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #45 on: February 15, 2004, 05:39:14 AM »
Some ideas for heat: If your kiln is tiny, a little immersion heater in a tank might be used. The water is circulated in a closed loop. I put a tee in the water line going to the heat exchanger. Then I use a compression fitting to put a RTD in the water. Connect the RTD to a controller that runs a contacter that energizes the heater when needed.

Don't forget that heating circuits need a couple safeties. Pressure relief valves are cheap. An expansion tank is a good idea. Connect it to 'city' water through a pressure regulator to keep it from going dry from drips. Include an air release valve to bleed air.

For my vac kiln, I bought a steam boiler from a salvage yard for $300. People don't want steam for heat in houses and they are sitting around here in the north. I take steam from the boiler and feed it to a brazed plate heat exchanger proportionately. The water circulates constantly through the other side of the exchanger. An RTD in the water line tells a controller how to set a ball valve that controls the steam. This type of system can control water within a tenth of a degree. The boiler makes a lot more steam than the kiln needs so I use some for radiant heat in the shop floor.

You can use an outdoor boiler for heat. Use a water to water heat exchanger with two closed loops circulating. Use a diverter valve to send more or less to the heat exchanger as the kiln needs.

A couple details: Water will condense on the walls inside the chamber.You will need a floor drain.

Liquid ring vacuum pumps can take some vapor. But they work better if you pull the vapor through a condenser to keep it out of the pump.

Placement of the sample that you are watching for control is critical. It would be better to have RTD's in a couple locations and have the capability to switch control.

There are times that you might want to dry something fast and easy like soft maple. A condenser inside the chamber can assist the vacuum pump.

Offline DanG

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #46 on: February 15, 2004, 07:26:57 PM »
Bill_B, my thought on placement of the duct was to get a good airflow horizontally across the stack. Vertically, the airflow would be blocked by the solid layers of lumber. Longitudinally, it would be blocked by the stickers. Also, the bottom would likely interfere with the cart you would need to load the kiln, and at the top, I would probably put a couple of narrow layers of boards, pyramid style, to squeeze in a few extra boards. Since the sides of the stack have to be square, and it is in a round space, you are left with this handy little opening for the duct. :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Offline shopteacher

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #47 on: February 16, 2004, 05:32:39 AM »
Den: Can you elaborate a little on condensers? I'm imagining a container between the chamber and the pump where the vapor can condense and be drained off before getting to the pump. I can't figure how it would work though without loosing vacuum or drawing outside atmosphere into the pump.
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
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Offline Den Socling

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Re: dry kiln for drying bowls
« Reply #48 on: February 16, 2004, 01:07:44 PM »
A shell and tube heat exchanger can be a condenser. They lay around in scrap yards but you need to find a single-pass unit. In these, the tubes go in one end, straight through and out the other. To make it a vac pump condenser, stand it on end, connect the vac pump to the top, the chamber to the bottom and cooling water to the shell.

I've got one customer who built two of his own by welding a pipe inside a larger pipe. It's long and tilts. Water is circulated through the outer pipe. The pump is connected to the high end and the bottom drains back into the kiln.

Inside the kiln, the fin tube that is used in baseboard heating works well.


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