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Joining Cants in a Dovetail Log Home

Started by Tdawg, February 17, 2012, 07:58:26 AM

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Tdawg

Hey Guys, this has probably been covered before, but I seem to have a problem with the search function. If a guy was to build a log house using, say 8"x8" cants and dovetail joinery and the layout was to be 40'x30' for example-is there a method for joining the 30' and 40' cants? I realize that most will be shorter because of window and door openings. Is it acceptable to use scarf joints like in timberframing or would you need to find a way to mill 40' logs. It seems to me that in the east, it might be tough finding logs that are over 8"x8" on the skinny end. Just curious.

Thanks,
Terry

scouter Joe

I made an extension on my m 30 Enercraft and can cut 48' . If we need longer  than that I build some cribbing at the end and secure some  1" angle to it so I can cut past the end of the extension . Have cut up to 54' this way . Hope this helps . scouter Joe

Axe Handle Hound

Check out the document from Mother Earth News that Chris Germany just posted in another thread.  There's a section that discusses scarf joints in a hewn log building.

jander3

You could use a scarf joint but that might be too much.  Not needed for dovetail construction. Just nail in some spacers and call it good. The chinking will cover the spacers.

If you want some insurance, add in some angle iron at the butt joint.

Jim_Rogers

I was thinking that a vertical butt joint with a small vertical spline to prevent any air from coming in would be ok.
But I don't have any experience in log building.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Tdawg

Quote from: scouter Joe on February 17, 2012, 02:36:58 PM
I made an extension on my m 30 Enercraft and can cut 48' . If we need longer  than that I build some cribbing at the end and secure some  1" angle to it so I can cut past the end of the extension . Have cut up to 54' this way . Hope this helps . scouter Joe

Scouter Joe, the wife's from Chelmsford and we have good friends in Hanmer...maybe someday when you're not looking I'll sneak by and look at your setup  8) 8) 8)

Tdawg

Quote from: jander3 on February 17, 2012, 09:50:51 PM
You could use a scarf joint but that might be too much.  Not needed for dovetail construction. Just nail in some spacers and call it good. The chinking will cover the spacers.

If you want some insurance, add in some angle iron at the butt joint.

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by nailing in spacers. Butt two cants together and shim the ends?

jander3

Yes.  Butt the ends together.  Then, under the ends, add spacers (i.e. sized to the gap you plan to chink).

Put a spacer under each end for support where the ends are butted together. Screw or nail it in place.   

If you want more support.  On the top side of the joint, you can take a chainsaw and cut a kerf that is about 12"-18" long  (1/2 the cut on each side of the joint) say 2" deep or so.  Then, pound in in a piece of iron or hardwood.

Or, run a long timber screw through the log, through the spacer, and into the log below.

If you plan windows and doors, you can minimize the number of butt joints. Where you do use butt joints, make sure they are offset from one another.

If you want to make sure you keep the wind out, you can cut a verticle groove down the center of each log and spine it together. 



Tdawg


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