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cutting veneer logs do's and dont's

Started by logman81, July 01, 2012, 11:02:21 AM

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logman81

I may be closing up shop and going to work for another company. The guy is willing to give me a chance to work for him on the next job he is starting, cutting hard wood veneer timber. What are some of the do's and dont's for cutting such timber?
Precision Firewood & Logging

Black_Bear

Depends on if you are cutting on the stump or on the yard.

On the stump, one simple rule that I can think of: don't split the tree, from the bottom or the top. Know how to properly fell a tree so you don't split it at the stump and so it doesn't get hung up in another tree and split from the top down.

On the yard, know your specs., such as log lengths, required trim and which top end diameters are minimum for certain grades. Carry a spec. sheet if you have to and look over the entire circumference of the tree from bottom to top and then top to bottom before you buck your logs. Don't be afraid to cut out a defect if you can upgrade from a sawlog to a veneer log, especially if you like firewood from short ends. But know which defects are allowed and which defects will downgrade the log. Certain defects are allowed and you won't have to cut it out, but it also may depend on the market and how hungry the mill is. What they see as a defect in July may not be a defect in February. Talk to your buyer if you have any questions and take his/her advice when you are scaling on the yard.

Don't let the veneer sit around too long during the summer months. Cut them a bit long if you know they will be sitting around more than 2 weeks. A veneer buyer will cut cookies off the ends to see how deep the checking runs, and they really hate to see the checking to begin with. Most veneer buyers around here are very active with their chainsaw and their peavey.

Don't cut your logs short, that will earn the log a trip to the sawlog pile. 

If cutting off the pile you may have to undercut before cutting from the topside so that the log or remainder of the tree doesn't split before you can get all the way through it. Or, have the logs set up so you can avoid the log "falling off" the remainder of the tree.

If bucking with a slasher, make sure your log length markers are accurate; measure from the saw to the markers if you have to. My former boss in the early 90s wouldn't let us cut veneer with a slasher, but almost everyone does it now. 

chevytaHOE5674

Cut the stumps as low as possible as there is where your volume and value is. Clip the corners of the hinge to prevent fiber pull if the tree should spin a little on the stump. Leave plenty of trim when bucking to length.

PAFaller

If you know a tree is going to go veneer dont be afraid to make a good hole for it. Nothing is worse that having a big "Y" oak or cherry barrel roll through the canopy and split. Any logger tells you hes never split a tree he hasnt cut that many hard ones, it does happen, but you got to do your best not to. Another thing I always do in quality hardwood is punch out the center of my face so you dont pull any wood in the center. It also helps should the tree roll on its way down the post of hinge wood on one side will usually let go rather than peeling a big slab of wood off. My suggestion is to get a handle of doing some big but not super quality trees before you go tackling 2 dollar a board foot on the stump veneer.
It ain't easy...

woodtick#2

when I cut veneer I try to leave a little less hinge wood, don't cut it off the stump but surely don't leave too much
-Nathan

logman81

Thanks every one for the advice seems that you just need to be extra carefull when cutting this type of timber. I'm not green at it just as I have over fifteen years in the woods. Just looking fot some extra tips.
Precision Firewood & Logging

stoneeaglefarm

Another good idea with the veneer is to boar into the middle after you make your pie cut in front of tree, This helps alot if there is a good lean to the tree, We do it alot in the winter were the trees tend to explode, Also, Once on  the landing, Check into buying one of the veneer log hammers that puts the plastic fletchings in to help keep log from splitting, Most veneer log buyer have them and I picked one up thru them for a little over a $100, A true saver is this hot weather, specially on oak and ash.

T Welsh

logman81, Knowledge is the key! Know your buyer,s specifications and cut to his or her requirements. Tim

1270d

 using an undercut notch leaves a cleaner butt log and a happier veneer buyer.   Maybe undercutting is standard where you are though

HiTech

No Matter what else you do....look up and study the surrounding trees. Check to make sure when you fall the tree you are cutting that nothing is hanging in other trees that will be sent back at you when the tree you cut brushes by them. When other trees get bent down from a falling tree all kinds of stuff can come flying back at you when they spring back up. I have walked by marked trees for days before I cut them. Either the wind was blowing in the wrong direction or I wasn't sure what way it would go...especially with leaves on. Many times i have had my partner study it with me and sometimes we both just walk away and not cut it that day. No log or tree is worth getting hurt for.

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