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Author Topic: glue  (Read 2860 times)

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Offline Dan_Shade

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glue
« on: September 30, 2012, 08:09:26 PM »
what kind of glue do you guys use?

I've been thinking of switching to hot hide glue, but I've never messed with the stuff. 

I want something with a long open time, but I saw some things that hide glue can have a short open time.

I'm confused....
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Offline clww

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Re: glue
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2012, 08:15:05 PM »
I use either Titebond II(mostly) or Gorilla Glue.
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Offline WDH

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Re: glue
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2012, 08:36:09 PM »
Titebond III.
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Offline POSTON WIDEHEAD

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Re: glue
« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2012, 08:54:45 PM »
I use TITEBOND III and Monkey Glue. I get it at LOWE'S.
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Offline Tree Feller

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Re: glue
« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2012, 09:14:04 PM »
I use primarily TBIII, sometimes epoxy, CA on turnings because of the quick set and Urea Formaldehyde on some laminations (no creep). If I need gap-filling properties in non-structural applications I'll use Poly glue (Gorilla Glue) but otherwise I stay away from it.

If you use something like Old Brown Glue or Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, you will get the benefit of a long open time plus the repairability and finish compatability of hot hide glue. You don't get the stink or the mess, either.

Hot hide glue has a very quick tack and a short open time which makes it ideal for hammer veneering or attaching glue blocks and cleats with a simple rub joint.

Neither liquid hide glue nor hot hide glue will tolerate any moisture exposure. The glue will soften and fail if it gets wet.

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Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: glue
« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2012, 09:17:22 PM »
thanks guys.  I've use TB, TBII, and now more or less use TBIII exclusively.

I try to design my projects so that the glue is a "nice to have", but some joints are impossible to do that way (miters).

I have thought about switching to hide glue to give somebody a chance 100 years down the road to repair my projects if need be...

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lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Offline Larry

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Re: glue
« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2012, 09:39:24 PM »
I use Titebond Original 90% of the time cause its cheapest of the three.  Titebond III if I need a little more open time.  About the only time I need water resistance is on cutting boards.  I'm pushing the open time on my end grain cutting boards.

For really long open times I not sure what to use these days.   In the past I have used resorcinol glue but it has disappeared from the market.  Plastic resin works but its also hard to find and may be out of date from some suppliers.  Unibond 800 is still available but I think only in gallons.  If you find any of the above be aware some is brown…might be a problem on white woods.

A lot of folks are using epoxy but locally all I can find is the 5 minute type anymore.  Last week I got some West System G/Flex epoxy and thickened G/Flex from Jamestown Distributors.  I have a complicated glue up in a week, were I need a long open time.  This will be a first for me.

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Offline DouginUtah

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Re: glue
« Reply #7 on: October 01, 2012, 12:44:33 AM »

Titebond Extend Original has an open time of 15 minutes whereas Titebond III has an open time of 10 minutes.
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Offline T Welsh

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Re: glue
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2012, 06:44:54 AM »
Titebond. Tim

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: glue
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2012, 06:55:26 AM »
I had to bore out some holes in that old rocker to get the broken ends of the spokes removed. There was what I believe to be old hide glue in there. As soon as I pulled out the bit to the air it hardened right up. That's quite a mess on a bit. I had to scrape the stuff off. Don't want anything to do with it. ;D
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Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: glue
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2012, 07:53:01 AM »
If its hide glue, then warm water should help clean everything up.
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lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Offline Lud

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Re: glue
« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2012, 08:18:36 AM »
TB III for the last year or so.   Good stuff.   
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Offline WDH

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Re: glue
« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2012, 08:21:56 PM »
My experience with hide glue was the real stuff, the actual hide particles.  It was tedious and messy to dissolve the glue with a double boiler.  I have not used the liquid stuff.  Not sure that it is going to help you all that much.
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Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: glue
« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2012, 09:10:11 PM »
i like to pretend that the stuff I build will be useful to somebody 100 years from now.  I'd hate to see something go on a burn pile because of a non-repairable glue joint failure.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Offline Tree Feller

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Re: glue
« Reply #14 on: October 01, 2012, 09:23:20 PM »
i like to pretend that the stuff I build will be useful to somebody 100 years from now.  I'd hate to see something go on a burn pile because of a non-repairable glue joint failure.

You might care now. You won't in 100 years, guaranteed.  :D

I hear what you're saying, though, although there are two schools of thought on the subject of furniture longevity. One, like yours, is that repairability is a concern when the joints fail in 100 years. The other is that modern glues are so much superior to hide glue that the glue joints will last many, many years longer before needing repair.

Ever noticed how most 18th century furniture has pegged M&T construction? That's because the maker knew the glue would fail. Instead of a catastrophic failure, however, the pegs still held the joint together.

I had to bore out some holes in that old rocker to get the broken ends of the spokes removed.

I think round M&T joints (like chair spindles) are absolutely the first to fail on furniture.
Cody

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Re: glue
« Reply #15 on: October 01, 2012, 09:29:11 PM »
I tried to repair some old rocking chairs that were 80 or 90 years old with the round spindle tenons.  I gave up on the project as it was very difficult and frustrating.
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Offline hackberry jake

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Re: glue
« Reply #16 on: October 01, 2012, 10:56:12 PM »
I use tb I most of the time as well. Tb III when I need water resistance.
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Offline Brad_bb

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Re: glue
« Reply #17 on: October 01, 2012, 11:56:03 PM »
Dan_Shade,
You didn't mention your application.  My knowledge is only recent.  Titebond is easy to reach for, but may not have the open time you are looking for.  Unibond 800 veneer glue is supposed to have a much longer open time.  It works well in a vacuum bag press because it will be held in place until cured, and adjustable til your satisfied.

Recently I've been learning about antique wood radios from the 20's through the 40's.  They were all wood veneered with hide glue.  The benefit of the hide glue is that you can remove the veneer for repair or restoration with an iron and damp towel.  After watching this removal(on a DVD), I then watched him do repairs with titebond.  I emailed and asked why he was doing that?  Doing do means you will have a devil of a time if you ever have to repair it again.  I think he should have used hide glue for the repairs.  That's a great feature of real hide glue- it's removeable.
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Offline jamesamd

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Re: glue
« Reply #18 on: October 02, 2012, 09:29:22 PM »
I use TBII & III most.
I have this on My wish list at Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=45104&cat=1,110,42965&ap=1 
I'll start with the smallest first,I trust LV with most of My woodworking purchases.
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Offline Tree Feller

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Re: glue
« Reply #19 on: October 03, 2012, 12:46:07 AM »
That Lee Valley glue looks interesting, very interesting. Long open time, gap-filling, minimal glue spots, all in a PVA glue.

I buy a lot of stuff from Lee Valley. I think I'll give that glue a try.
Cody

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