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Author Topic: 4* blades  (Read 5409 times)

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Offline ladylake

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #20 on: December 24, 2012, 07:54:38 AM »
 Hey Frank I found the ° , thanks Shotgun never looked up there , those fractions are nice too.   Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline Magicman

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #21 on: December 24, 2012, 08:07:26 AM »
You are welcome.   ;D
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Offline ND rancher

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #22 on: December 24, 2012, 09:35:47 AM »
Hey guy's, Thanks for the info.I know that the only dirt would be blown deep in cracks of bark,there was no visible dirt This wood was just hard!Tree had been blown down Aug. of 11 and cut in spring of 12.It had moisture in it as we could see and feel the frozen spots.Ladylake I'm running 3/16 deflection and 1200 psi. Keith :christmas:
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Offline bama20a

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #23 on: December 24, 2012, 10:31:06 AM »
don't mean for this to sound like a smart remark,But being the 4 degree cut's better in hard to saw logs,Why not just cut ever thing with it?instead of ordering all diff- sizes,Mark :christmas:
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #24 on: December 24, 2012, 11:42:42 AM »
I started using the .055, 4 degree blades almost 9 months ago for some of my really hard logs and have been very happy with them.  I use them on hickory, beech, pecan, and white oak, especially the big logs because these don't seem to wander as much as my other blades in big hard wood, and seem to stay sharp for a reasonable time.  But get them in poplar and gum and they cut waves unless I slow way down,  so then I switch back to the soft wood blades and everything is fine.  I suppose all hook angles can cut wood if done carefully, but when the right blade gets put into a log it was designed for, it really shines. 
YH
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Offline ladylake

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #25 on: December 24, 2012, 11:47:48 AM »


  It's hard to get 4° blades from some companys, my local saw shop sells Simonds, Lennox and WM but only in 10°.  I do run 4° for everything after the first sharpening.  Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline Chuck White

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #26 on: December 24, 2012, 11:57:52 AM »
Steve; Wouldn't you need to slow your feed down in the softwoods with the 4°, when compared to the 10° blades.

The 4° would take sawdust out at slower rate (because of the slower feed) wouldn't it?

I'm only guessing because I don't know for sure!  :-\
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Offline mikeb1079

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #27 on: December 24, 2012, 12:23:58 PM »
my non expert take on blade hook is that the higher the hook the more aggresively the band wants to cut.   with less hook angle your taking a slightly smaller bite and you're sacrificing a wee bit of speed and it takes a tad more power to run.  the trade off is that the lower hook angle wears a bit better in difficult cutting conditions, thus they make up for the slightly slower cutting.  in softwoods however it seems that you're better off using a higher hook angle which means a faster feed, less build up, and generally better cutting performance.
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Offline ladylake

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #28 on: December 24, 2012, 01:07:44 PM »

 10° will cut a little bit faster in clear softwood, the 4° more than make up it in knotty pine.  Seems like most feed a lot slower soon as it gets wavy and 4° cuts staighter at a high feed rate.   Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline Chuck White

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #29 on: December 24, 2012, 03:37:18 PM »
Looks like I need to get some 4° blades, or convert 3 or 4 10° to 4° then, they should come in handy in May when I dive into a bunch of Spruce logs!

With the 10's I end up slowing my feed down quite a bit in Spruce.
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and single-tooth setter, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
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Offline hamish

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #30 on: December 24, 2012, 03:50:36 PM »
Spruce is bad to cut with anything except a chainsaw!
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Offline John Bartley

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #31 on: December 24, 2012, 04:16:36 PM »
Spruce is bad to cut with anything except a chainsaw!

Ummmm  not in my experience. The only trouble I've had with Spruce is when I don't have enough set. I'm running a 10° angle in not-frozen wood and about 0.028" set, and I can cut as straight as laser line. This applies equally to frozen and not frozen and is the same experience I've had with White Pine.  I have tried setting the sharpening angle back to 7° for frozen wood with good success, but while the tooth stays sharp longer, I still seem to need close to 30 thous of set in the knotty, pitchy stuff to avoid doing the wave.

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Offline barbender

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #32 on: December 24, 2012, 07:04:08 PM »
I just sawed some white spruce yesterday with a WM 7°, it sawed nice and straight, and it did have a few knots in it. I've had good experience with the 7's on pine, oak, spruce, and black ash. I had some green ash give me some trouble, it is a low moisture wood and it may have been the spot for 4° bands. The only 4° band I tried was.on some red pine, and I wasn't that impressed with it in that application.
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Offline MartyParsons

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #33 on: December 24, 2012, 11:16:46 PM »
Hello,
 There are lots of variable to blades. Hook angle, Set, back angle and the list goes on.
I have found that every mill is not the same. Owners cutting speed, blade tension, hp, wood, dirt, bark and the list goes on an on.

WM blades ( others may be different)

the 4 degree has a high tooth .250",  32 degree back angle
the 7 degree has a high tooth .295" and a 34 degree back angle
the 9 degree has a low tooth .220" and a 29 degree back angle

If you have a 15 hp mill and you are sawing some tough or frozen wood. This owner may have only sawed 15 logs since new. I may help you chose a different blade than a owner sawing the same wood with a 55+ hp mill and with expert sawing experience.

We have many customes who use the 4 degree blade even on the LT10 and they work great.

Hope this helps.
Marty
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Offline ladylake

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #34 on: December 25, 2012, 05:42:20 AM »
Spruce is bad to cut with anything except a chainsaw!

Ummmm  not in my experience. The only trouble I've had with Spruce is when I don't have enough set. I'm running a 10° angle in not-frozen wood and about 0.028" set, and I can cut as straight as laser line. This applies equally to frozen and not frozen and is the same experience I've had with White Pine.  I have tried setting the sharpening angle back to 7° for frozen wood with good success, but while the tooth stays sharp longer, I still seem to need close to 30 thous of set in the knotty, pitchy stuff to avoid doing the wave.

John


  John  How wide are you cutting spruce straight?   Making a 20" wide cut with a brand new 10° it looked like the ocean, then put on a 4° with a lot of set and it cut good.  As he didn't need 20" + we cut those big ones in half, when down to 12" or so cut nice at a good feed rate.  Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline customsawyer

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #35 on: December 25, 2012, 05:53:54 AM »
Steve one of the reasons that your resharpened 4° blades are cutting better is that the cutting edge is square to the cut. When you have a new blade the cutting edge tends to be a little out of square due to the heavy set after it is sharpened. Setting after resharpening is not as bad cause you are only adding a few thousandths of set. IMHO.
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Offline ladylake

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #36 on: December 25, 2012, 06:39:12 AM »
 
 That makes sence, I set then sharpen.  I believe the 7° blade at the start of this thread was factory sharpened.  Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline John Bartley

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #37 on: December 26, 2012, 08:56:56 AM »


  John  How wide are you cutting spruce straight?   Making a 20" wide cut with a brand new 10° it looked like the ocean, then put on a 4° with a lot of set and it cut good.  As he didn't need 20" + we cut those big ones in half, when down to 12" or so cut nice at a good feed rate.  Steve


A couple of the Spruce I was cutting needed trimming with the chainsaw to get the millhead over the butt flare. My mill will clear 29", and I was just clearing many of them. I won;t say with any authority, but it's my opinion (from experience) that tooth angle, much like tooth angle on a chainsaw will decide how long a tooth stays cutting efficiently in different hardnesses of wood, whereas the set will decide how flat (lack of wave) the cut will be. I've had fresh sharpened, but thinly set bands produce a bad wave in the same wood where a dull band with wide set cuts dead flat, but really slow. I've never sharpened as tall as 4°. That's almost a vertical tooth face, but I'll bet that it would last a lot longer in frozen wood than my 10° bands, or even the 7° that I tried and had good success with.

John
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Offline ladylake

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #38 on: December 26, 2012, 12:12:42 PM »
 
 This time I increased the set as these blades didn't have much and went to 4° at the same time with way better results, but other times I just went from 10° to 4° with way better results. This morning I sharpened anouther 7° blade down to 4° without increasing the set and it didn't do good.  I'm out to resharpen and increase the set now, will report back later.   Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline Jemclimber

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Re: 4* blades
« Reply #39 on: December 26, 2012, 01:40:12 PM »

WM blades ( others may be different)

the 4 degree has a high tooth .250",  32 degree back angle
the 7 degree has a high tooth .295" and a 34 degree back angle
the 9 degree has a low tooth .220" and a 29 degree back angle



Hi Marty,
When you say high tooth and low tooth, is that referring to the depth of the gullet or something else?
lt15


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