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Opinions on two saws, and open to other suggestions.

Started by Jason S, March 10, 2013, 08:45:47 PM

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Jason S

New to the forum but I have been lurking and reading for a while. My significant other and I are planning a house build. We have 9 acres with a variety of wood here in Washington. On property are: Douglas Fir, Western Red and Yellow Cedar, Red Alder, Spruce, Hemlock, and Big Leaf Maple. Most all are large and mature trees, some of the Doug Fir are 48" at base with Cedars to 60".

When we build we are wanting a rustic cabin style house. I love woodworking and have a fully equipped shop at my present house. Am good with it also.  I want to save as much as possible during the build and do all my own flooring, cabinetry, goings and groove soffits and ceilings and trim.

So have been looking at two saws and would like to start an open discussion about them, and maybe here opinions about others also.

I know Woodmizer sponsors the forum but I will talk about then first. Am looking at the LT15 not on a trailer. With a lap siding and shingle adapter as I want to saw all the siding and shakes for the majority of the exterior of the house myself from WRC.  Looks like a great saw but itwill be almost double the price of the other saw I am looking at. Was wondering why.

Second saw is the Norwood Lumberlite ML26. These two saws seem very comparable. The Norwood even it seems has more features and ability to grow. Am leaning in this direction.

So tell me Pro's and cons please. Am I over achieving with the house plan? I plan on buying all the critical framing lumber but everything else I would love to have come off of our property.

Magicman

Norwood is also a FF sponsor, but since I have no experience with either model that you are considering, I will just Welcome you to the Forestry Forum.   :)

There will be others that can offer opinions.   ;)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

drobertson

Howdy Jason, after reading your post I don't think you are over achiving at all,  all I can say is I would try to see the two in operation, and go from there, talk with the owners in person.  I believe you will get a better understanding of the ins and outs this way.  Both will cut, it boils down to your preference and understanding how each one works.  Hope all goes well for you,  take some time to make the right decision.  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

thecfarm

Jason,welcome to the forum. First off,make sure some code won't allow you to use your lumber in a home. Never know,some places have rules that need to be followed. I have no idea about either mill, What is the time frame you need this home started? There must be shows,events,county fairs and so on that will have these mills so you can look and try and decide why you like one over the other. Good luck with your plan.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

dgdrls

Welcome to the Forum

Both dandy mills, but with 4' & 5' logs your gonna need a bigger mill
and a way to move said logs
and/or go with a swingmill IMHO

Best
DGDrls

Jason S

Bigger logs I actually was planning on quartering. I do have a couple mice chainsaws already Stihl 660, 362 and a little 180c. With up to a 48" bar and chains. Saw most way through and use a hydraulic jack to split.

Have seen it done before. Between the tractor and truck with a 12k winch I have been able to love everything I have wanted to so far.

Probably going to sell a couple big cedars this summer for some excavating work and a septic install.

I should be able to buck them down into quarters to fit the mill I think.

I have looked at having someone else saw. But around here the pricing I have seen is .65-80 Bdft. That buys the Norwood pretty quickly did I mention also I am looking at having lap siding sawn. Not to mention porch floors and decks. Anything not structural I would love to say came from that land by my hands. It is going to be our dream house. Bathroom vanities, walking closet of cedar. Am thinking of a lot of higher end uses to try and do to set this house apart. Plus the story will be awesome and scrap books wil be made by her to document it all.

Happycamper

Jason,
  I'm new to the forum and to sawing. Prior to buying the LT10 the smallest WM. I looked and looked at other units. I am impressed with the Norwood as they have many good features and I think would be a good saw. Had they been in the west I would have bought one in a heartbeat. Most mills come from the east and that is why I bought a WM which is in the west also.It is a very well made saw except the problem with raising and lowering the head. It does a fine job of accurately sawing. I think the larger units don't have this problem. WM is 20 miles away from where I live and it is good that they are nearby. Both companies do a good job looking after their customers but if you need parts for the Norwood you would have to wait for them.
Wether you think you can or you can't you're right

Jason S

One of the reasons at 3K more initial outlay that the Woodmizer is still on the list is that there is an outlet in Portland OR, but that is still a drive.

Was thinking of a drive down there one weekend though still.

Being from BC you probably have some access to a lot of the same lumber species I have. Do you like how it cuts them? How do you also deal with more oversized woods we have access to sometimes?

WDH

Both are fine mills.  I have a LT15, but have  not had any experience with the Norwood.

The LT15 has a bigger engine at 18 HP standard, has an electric start with battery and alternator, and has a longer bed which can cut 17' logs.  You can also put a power feed on it, and if you do much sawing, that is a must have.  You can upgrade to a 25 HP engine, which I have, and it can cut anything the bigger mills can cut. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

mikeb1079

QuoteBetween the tractor and truck with a 12k winch I have been able to love everything I have wanted to so far.

it always helps to have a way to take care of those larger ladies.   :D :D

sorry man i couldn't help it.   :laugh: :laugh:

i think your plan is fantastic.  you won't regret it.  truthfully i don't think you could go wrong with either mill.  i agree with the advice about trying to see and run the machines if possible.  probably the only way to make an informed choice.  either way though i don't think you'll go wrong.  just keep them big girls off it.   ;D
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

Happycamper

Jason,
  My mill is a very small one 24" cut and I have not cut anything that large. A 10 HP motor does a very nice job and the cut is very accurate with it, but I must go slow with it and at my age that's just the right speed. I can judge the speed pushing by listening to the engine, it's a totally manual mill. This week I hope to get some possibly 30" fir which will put me and the mill to the test once I have "whittled" them down to mill size w/ the chainsaw.
                                     
  It is a very well made mill and will serve me just fine once the one issue is taken care of that WM is working on right now.
                                           Jim



 
Wether you think you can or you can't you're right

dgdrls

Quote from: Jason S on March 10, 2013, 09:23:54 PM
Bigger logs I actually was planning on quartering. I do have a couple mice chainsaws already Stihl 660, 362 and a little 180c. With up to a 48" bar and chains. Saw most way through and use a hydraulic jack to split.

Have seen it done before. Between the tractor and truck with a 12k winch I have been able to love everything I have wanted to so far.

Probably going to sell a couple big cedars this summer for some excavating work and a septic install.

I should be able to buck them down into quarters to fit the mill I think.

I have looked at having someone else saw. But around here the pricing I have seen is .65-80 Bdft. That buys the Norwood pretty quickly did I mention also I am looking at having lap siding sawn. Not to mention porch floors and decks. Anything not structural I would love to say came from that land by my hands. It is going to be our dream house. Bathroom vanities, walking closet of cedar. Am thinking of a lot of higher end uses to try and do to set this house apart. Plus the story will be awesome and scrap books wil be made by her to document it all.

Looks like you have a solid plan,
Have you considered Linn Sawmills??
they are in Lebanon Oregon

DGDrls

YellowHammer

I had an LT15 and it was an excellent, well made, sturdy mill.  With the bed extension I cut long wood and never had any issues. It had a very accurate manual setworks and was very easy to operate.  Also held great resale value.
Reality is, I don't think you'd go wrong if you bought any of the major brands.
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Jason S

Another question for all.

Lap siding and shingles. BIG part (and for the above not the loving of big girls lol) of what I want to be as to do is lap siding and shingles for a house and barn. I have the cedars, I love the look of cedar. Have two horses now. House will come first. Want to be able to build shelters before a barn and a barn down the line eventually. Have been talking with the owner of 6 arces adjacent to our property about a future purchase of that. So I can see a need for siding and shingles, have a bit of OCD and like things to match.

Can you buy say a Woodmizer lap siding/shingle attachment and use it in a Hud-Son Mill?

KnotBB

Just my 2 cents.

I agree that you might want to look a bigger mill in your area.  A swing mill or a dimension saw might be a better answer.  Quartering a big fir or cedar with a chainsaw is brutal work and you still have to move the pieces around (better get a big Logrite Pevee too.  And a quartered 60" cedar is still 30" across.

Price on the various saws pretty much reflects capabilities and quality (read durability).

Nothing wrong with either saw you're looking at but if you're set on a band mill you might look at the Timber King line of saws.  For a given level of saw they have wider throats and a deeper cut up and down and pretty much the heaviest base unless they sucked me in with their hype.
To forget one's purpose is the commonest form of stupidity.

redbeard

Welcome Jason the lapsider  attachment is pretty universal they just come in different colors. You can make a lot of shingles with one just have to have the blocks all made up. Have you had a chance to visit some mills yet? Your welcome to come and visit if your close.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

losttheplot



I would get the biggest mill I could afford,likely a low hour secondhand one.
If I didn't want it after the project I think the resale value would still be pretty good.

If the cedar trees are as good as I think they would be, It's hard to beat the look of hand split cedar shakes.

Board and batten siding is pretty rustic, and the money saved from a siding jig could be spent on a bigger mill.

If you have not seen a copy already, I found "Builders of the pacific coast" by Lloyd Khan to be a good book  for West coast style, rustic buildings.

I look forward to seeing pictures.
Make sure you enjoy the journey, I would love to be in your situation.

DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK !

Ianab

QuoteMost all are large and mature trees, some of the Doug Fir are 48" at base with Cedars to 60"

Those there are Swing Blade size logs. 8)

Sure you can rip them down with a chainsaw and get the pieces on a band mill, but that's a lot of hard work.

Swing mill, you take the mill to the log, and mill it where it lays, without even moving it.  You'd have the log sawn and be heading home with a load boards in the time it took to quarter it and haul the pieces to a band mill.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

bandmiller2

I'am with Ian on the swing blade mill,really the only thing you give up is really wide boards that are usally not a good idea anyways.A swinger costs a little more but you won't have to buy a band grinder or setter.Huge logs and light duty manual bandmills is not a happy marriage.You can use the swinger then store it in the end of your garage. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

dboyt

Welcome to the forum.  I built our timber frame house from lumber I milled 30 years ago, and it is still standing, so it can be done!  A lot depends on the size and design of the house, and how much time and energy you have.  I'd say go for it!  I have the larger Norwood MX34 mill, and very pleased with it, and they're great folks to deal with.  I have a few hours on the 26 and it did a fine job, too-- I just like the 23 hp and ability to cut bigger logs.  They advertise 34" dia max, but you can squeeze a bigger log if you get every thing lined up right.  They have track extensions for both models, and I know a fellow that cuts 40' beams on his ML26. You're welcome to come to Missouri and work on mine, but if you call them, they can probably find someone a little closer.


  
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

Jason S

Well a lot of info here, I have looked at the swing blade mills to be honest, as well as CSM's.

Might have some more thinking to do. The average tree I want to take down will fit on the mill. The four or five "big boys" are all where we want to build. Not sure yet how to get those stumps out to be honest. Two huge cedars right where the horse barn will be, and three big firs where the house will be. Plus some in driveway land.

Most of the Alder and Maple are not so huge.

Might have to take a day trip and take up the offer of seeing the Whidbey Island sawmill being operated. Need an excuse to convince the significant other that this is more than a fool hardy plan.

The framing lumber, structural lumber, trusses and sheeting will all be purchased to keep from running afoul of Kitsap County Washington zoning. Want this thing to actually get a livable stamp.


PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: Jason S on March 11, 2013, 10:05:03 PM
... Not sure yet how to get those stumps out to be honest. ... 

Oh, I'd say a couple of ounces of C-4 should do the trick!  :D

Have fun!

Be careful!

Herb

dboyt

Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

den

This will take a big powder wedge  8)
I don't know if they came in different sizes.
Homelite SuperXL, 360, Super2, Stihl MS251CB-E, Sotz M-20 20lb. Monster Maul, Wallenstein BXM-42

pri0ritize

I'm located in Kitsap County if you want to see and LT40 Hydraulic in action. I don't get a ton of time to use the mill as I'm currently doing exactly what you're contemplating doing. You can use the lumber you make for the structure in Kitsap County...if you get your engineer to put that in the plans. Wish I had known that before I bought all my lumber.
2012 LT40HD
Random Stihl Chainsaws and more woodworking equipment than I care to inventory!

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