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Setting up lt40 stationary

Started by trhill, June 12, 2013, 11:23:57 PM

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trhill

I've searched for quite a while but not found much on setting up my lt40 stationary. Any tips?  I want it to be a lot more sturdy and level than I can get with the original outriggers. Thanks

drobertson

If it were me, I would use the original outriggers, set some piers under them, and bolt it down to the piers,  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

rooster 58

Also, you will want to drill and tap your posts and run a bolt I to them so your lock pins don't give out

wwsjr

When I bought my new Electric mill, I got a set of stationary legs at no extra cost. Top of legs are closed, no plastic caps, no sawdust can get inside leg. I plan to bolt down to concrete (10'X30' slab) and remove axle and wheels. Remove adjustable and bolt on stationary on same brackets. I would call WM and check on cost, might be worth the price.
Retired US Army, Full Time Sawyer since 2001. 2013 LT40HD Super with 25HP 3 Phase, Command Control with Accuset2. ED26 WM Edger, Ford 3930 w/FEL, Prentice Log Loader. Stihl 311, 170 & Logrite Canthooks. WM Million BF Club Member.

Chuck White

Wood-Mizer makes special legs (outriggers) for stationary setup!

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

bandmiller2

Its very handy to set up a stationary bandmill on a concrete floor,makes cleanup so much easier.If you have 110/220v so much the better you can have lights fans and blowers and keep a battery conditioner hooked up to the mill.Stationary legs are best but if you level and lock the portable legs they work OK.Myself I would drill through the square tube into the sliding tube and bolt on one side.Mills will tend to move on a smooth floor,you can bolt down or just move it back once in a wile.helps if the legs are on wood or better thin rubber matt.Be aware of exhaust even dilute long exposure is not good. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Dave Shepard

My mill was set up stationary for about a year and a half. You either have to by the stationary legs, of bolt/weld the adjustable ones. If you remove the axle,  you have to bolt the mill down or there is a very good chance you will flip it over. I would pour a slab,  and I will be for mine soon, although Bibbyman has his on timbers.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

pineywoods

If you have electric power, going with ac powered hydraulics is well worth the cost. Gives you hydraulic power at all times, and does away with some maintenance problems.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

wwsjr

I am moving slowly, mill wired and cutting. Do not have it bolted to concrete yet. Working on shed. I plan to add AC hydraulics as soon as I can.
Retired US Army, Full Time Sawyer since 2001. 2013 LT40HD Super with 25HP 3 Phase, Command Control with Accuset2. ED26 WM Edger, Ford 3930 w/FEL, Prentice Log Loader. Stihl 311, 170 & Logrite Canthooks. WM Million BF Club Member.

Piston

Forgive my ignorance, I don't know much about the LT40, but why can't you just "park" it like you normally would in a mobile job and not move it?  Wouldn't it then be "stationary"? 

Why does it need to be permanent, does the mill know that it won't be moving anytime soon?   ;D
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

trhill

For me, it's about stability. I haven't run my mill for long, but if I don't take the extra time to get it level and stable it seems like that really affects the beams I saw. I would like to remove the axle, but that's down the road. It really came down to the fact that I enjoy sawing at my place so much more than going portable. It seems more efficient, and running a manual mill means I need all the help I can get.

Brucer

Quote from: Piston on June 13, 2013, 11:05:56 PM
... why can't you just "park" it like you normally would in a mobile job and not move it?  Wouldn't it then be "stationary"? 

Well, that's what I did. No one told me I couldn't :D.

I chose the location carefully and dug down through the topsoil to solid earth under the wheels and the outriggers. Then I put solid wood blocking under all the support points. I cut myself a bunch of shim stock of various thicknesses so I could level the mill precisely. And there it sits. I unbolted the hitch and stashed it and the fenders in my basement.

It would be nice not to have to walk around the wheel, but that would mean pouring foundations and fastening the mill down. (For those of you who wonder if it's really necessary to fasten down a mill without the axle, the answer is a resounding Yes!. The guys at the pole mill down the road rolled their stationary electric WM when a big log got too much momentum. The mill is welded down now).

Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Magicman

The wheels provide additional stability.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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