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Author Topic: Chainsaw and oak  (Read 13221 times)

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Offline ladylake

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Re: Chainsaw and oak
« Reply #20 on: September 24, 2013, 06:48:50 AM »
 Put on a brand new bar and chain, semi chisel as bandmiller said. Your sharpened ones should cut just as good, if not you have a bad sharpener and need to find a different one or do it yourself .  Steve
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Offline kenskip1

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Re: Chainsaw and oak
« Reply #21 on: September 24, 2013, 07:43:56 PM »
I would like to know the brand {Texas lingo} of saw, model and type or make of the chain. 325, 3/8? bar length, and is your saw oiler doing it's thing? I am in central Texas and I have no problem working with Oak.Ken
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Offline seanut

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Re: Chainsaw and oak
« Reply #22 on: July 25, 2017, 05:42:58 PM »
I have never cut dry Live oak but if it is as hard or harder than dry madrone then I do understand the difficulty. In this regard, I was reading an article on Rapco carbide tipped chains from Vancouver, WA that may offer a real advantage over regular chains. The article stated from testimony the life of a sharp carbide tipped blade is equal to 30 to 5o regular blade sharpenings. Of course the price is considerably more but many users say it is worth it as the carbide tipped chains cut so much faster because they stay sharp and save so much time as well.
I must attest I do not have any direct experience with the carbide tipped chains.

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