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Getting ready for winter!

Started by Andy White, September 12, 2013, 10:43:53 AM

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Andy White

Just got the word today that I will be helping complete a large project in Corpus Christi Texas. Will be leaving Sunday, and probably won't be back till December. What special precautions should I take as far as getting my mill ready for long term storage, other than cleaning lubricating, and draining the fuel tank? I will have a lot to do in a very short time, so all the suggestions I can get, will speed this up for me. Should I drain tank, or fill it up and treat with stabil or seafoam? Sure am going to miss the milling. Nothing down there except Mesquite, and fence post Cedars.         Andy
Learning by day, aching by night, but loving every minute of it!! Running HM126 Woodland Mill, Stihl MS290, Homemade Log Arch, JD 5103/FEL and complete woodshop of American Delta tools.

Chuck White

Andy; My biggest concern would definately be the engine.

If using fuel with ethenol, this is what I would do, put the appropriate amount of treatment in the gas and start the engine, after the engine gets up to temperature, disconnect the fuel line and run the engine out of fuel!

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

beenthere

Quote from: Chuck White on September 12, 2013, 01:11:40 PM
Andy; My biggest concern would definately be the engine.

If using fuel with ethenol, this is what I would do, put the appropriate amount of treatment in the gas and start the engine, after the engine gets up to temperature, disconnect the fuel line and run the engine out of fuel!

Then drain the fuel out and start with fresh when you get back to sawing. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

drobertson

Winter is a six letter word, is this allowable on the forum?   david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Axe Handle Hound

Drain all the gas you can and then put in fresh oil, fresh filters, and grease every fitting around. Release tension on the band.  If you're really serious you could also fog the cylinders.   

Kingcha

I figure I only have about 6-7 more weeks left myself.   My air drying spot it a tarped building so It must come down the first week of November or sooner.   I really only need to finish up some 2 x 6 & 2 x 4's for a roof over and older travel trailer I want to build next spring.   Hoping to get that wood into the solar kiln by the first or 2nd week of October.

Its been a fun year of learning and projects.   Thinking I should make up a season end check list.   Being electric I am thinking all I have to do is clean and grease things.

Matt
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

terrifictimbersllc

Sprinkle red or black pepper around wherever you don't want mice.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

GDinMaine

I would put a light coat of grease on unpainted metal surfaces. It is easier to wipe off the grease when you get back then getting rid of rust.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

submarinesailor

Quote from: Axe Handle Hound on September 12, 2013, 05:59:17 PM
If you're really serious you could also fog the cylinders.

If you do decide to fog the cylinder(s), I would use this product:  http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/engine-fogging-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2ffog.aspx.  You can get it on line for about $7.70 per can plus taxes and shipping.  I have used it and like the way it works.

Bruce

scsmith42

For a three month period I don't think that there is much that you need to do.  If it were me, I would do the following:

1 - empty out all fuel, and pour about a quart of ethanol free fuel into the tank (such as Avgas) and run the mill for 20 - 30 minutes, or until you're sure that any preexisting ethanol fuel has been purged from the system.  Then shut off the fuel valve on the tank and run the engine until it dies (emptying the carb).

2 - Pick up some LPS #2 or #3 and spray down any machined surfaces that you don't want to rust.  #2 is a light oil, #3 is more like spray cosmoline.

3 - if you are in a very humid area, you can remove the air cleaner, tape up the intake (to keep humidity out), and replace the air cleaner.  Be sure to tape a note to the outside of the air cleaner reminding you that the intake is taped up.

4. - Cover the exhaust pipe with a can or tape it closed with duct tape.

5 - Cover the entire mill with a tarp and tie it in place.

6. - Disconnect and remove the battery, storing it under cover.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

MRowsh

LogMaster LM2 with Kubota V1305 Diesel conversion.
There is a price for everything in life!!!  No free lunches!
Retired US Army.

submarinesailor

One of the very good reasons to tape over the openings...................to keep the DANG stink bugs out.  This spring when I fired up my Stihl FS 85 weed eater, there must have been 50 of them wintering over in parts of it.  Hate to see what would happen if one of them got by the air filter and was sucked into the cylinder.  Now I store it inside a tightly wraped bag to keep them out of it.

Bruce

Andy White

Spent the entire day cleaning, greasing, wiping and fuel treating. First was to empty the fuel tank, and filling with non ethanol fuel, treated with SeaFoam. Run fifteen minutes, turned fuel valve off and ran until stopped. Removed plug, and sprayed fogger in cylinder, and reinstalled plug. Closed vent on tank, and tagged w/label, (Vent Closed). Removed battery from log arch winch, and placed on maintainer charge. Removed setworks display screen, and removed batteries. Removed Blade guide bearings and stored in zip-lock baggies. Drained lube tank and valves, and blew dry, and reconnected hoses. Hoping it don't freeze, but if it does, I think the mill is ready
This will be like setting up a new mill when I start sawing again. Thanks for the tip on fogger, I had not seen that before. The man at parts house recommended to fill the tank, and seal it to prevent condensation, rather than emptying it. I guess it's true about "An Ounce Of Prevention"   Thanks all        Andy
Learning by day, aching by night, but loving every minute of it!! Running HM126 Woodland Mill, Stihl MS290, Homemade Log Arch, JD 5103/FEL and complete woodshop of American Delta tools.

Nomad

     For the machine parts you put in zip lock baggies, put a bit of oil in the bags with them and roll 'em around to coat them.  Just leave it in there with them.  They'll last forever like that.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

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