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Author Topic: putting set into blades  (Read 3273 times)

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Offline diesel pap

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putting set into blades
« on: October 27, 2013, 10:48:03 PM »
about how many times can you sharpen band saw blades before you have to set the teeth

Online Peter Drouin

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2013, 10:50:13 PM »
Maybe one time.
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
http://www.forestryforum.com/sanbornton     NH Timberland Owners Association supporter.
And a license NH soft wood grader.
Sawing since 1987

Offline diesel pap

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2013, 11:08:37 PM »
looks like i will have to build myself a setter. i bought a grinder off of ezboardwalk

Offline Brucer

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2013, 12:17:02 AM »
I was told by my WM dealer, 1 to 3 times between setting.

In practice I've found that a blade that's been cutting true without marking the wood is good for a couple of sharpenings between setting. If it's marking the wood or wandering even a little it needs to be set.

When I sharpen a blade I write on it with a black felt pen, indicating how many times it's been sharpened and how many sharpenings since it was last set.

When I finish sawing with a blade, I duplicate the numbers and also add a note about any issues with the blade.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw with two 6' extensions.
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2013, 05:58:30 AM »
I set every time before I sharpen and I frequently find that the outer teeth have lost more set than the inner teeth. Anybody else seen this?
Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2013, 06:46:36 AM »
New band you can get by with one or two sharpenings between setting.It varies some logs seem to take the set out early.I have a dial indicator gauge and check several teeth,if their good I just sharpen.The bands are springy and if the teeth have enough set they really don't change going through the two side setter only the lowset teeth get a bump.  Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline diesel pap

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #6 on: October 28, 2013, 08:27:00 AM »
so im guessing you set if needed before you sharpen. back in the late nineties i sent my blades to a guy to sharpen. they worked good after the first time but that was about it. he didnt set since he  didnt have a setter.

Offline sawmillhand

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2013, 08:53:28 AM »
Do you set then sharpen?  or do you sharpen then set?  which would be the correct way.
1990 woodmizer LT40 Hyd  2004 Ford F350 Flatbed. Plenty of tractors.

Offline Kansas

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2013, 08:58:22 AM »
Set, then sharpen.

Offline Happycamper

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2013, 09:00:35 AM »
I set then sharpen the blade like you would a hand saw. I use a "pineywoods" setter and it does a good job.
                                    Jim
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #10 on: October 28, 2013, 09:41:01 AM »
I set the teeth, then sharpen.

I set everytime the blade needs sharpening!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
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Offline fat olde elf

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2013, 02:59:25 PM »
I always check the set before sharpening. Usually I go at least 2 sharpenings without setting unless I hit something. Years ago TOM told me to set and then sharpen. He was always right, put on your red t-shirt........ Say your prayers  FOE
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

Offline Tom the Sawyer

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #12 on: October 29, 2013, 10:16:41 PM »
I understand the importance of removing the burr off of the blade setting the teeth, if you sharpen first.   smiley_thumbsup

For those who set, then sharpen, it is necessary to remove the burr or will it come off as soon as it enters the log?   smiley_headscratch

Thanks for your opinions,
07 Timberking B-20, Custom-made log arch, 20' trailer w/ log loading arch, F350 SD flatbed dump.  Princeton piggy-back forklift.  Bobcat S250, Stihl 025C 16" and a Husqvarna 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says "He's sawin logs", I ain't snorin'.

Offline Brian_Rhoad

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #13 on: October 29, 2013, 10:48:53 PM »
I never remove the burr. By the time the blade needs sharpened the burr is gone. I have tried setting before and after sharpening and before is definitely better.

Online Peter Drouin

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #14 on: October 29, 2013, 11:02:58 PM »
I always set then sharpen , the top of the tooth has to be square to the blade. And that doesn't happen if you sharpen then set. It just won't cut right.
 Just my 2 cents.
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
http://www.forestryforum.com/sanbornton     NH Timberland Owners Association supporter.
And a license NH soft wood grader.
Sawing since 1987

Offline fat olde elf

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2013, 01:09:10 AM »
Peter D. is absolutely correct.  Squareness of the tooth is critical. Custom Sawyer has posted about this. Just check any table saw blade that is made for ripping. Teeth are square to the blade......Any burr left after sharpening is soon gone and not a factor. 
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

Offline Brucer

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2013, 01:13:13 AM »
I also set, then sharpen. The burrs come off as soon as the blade hits the log.

Further to Peter's comment, new blades (at least WM blades) are set after they are sharpened so they are not square to the blade. This doesn't seem to cause a problem when you use them straight out of the box. However, you must grind them down until the tops of the teeth are square to the blade across their entire width.

If you don't sharpen them this way, the lowest part of the tooth (on the outside) doesn't get sharpened. This means you have sharp teeth in the centre of the cut, but dull teeth on the top and bottom portions of the cut.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw with two 6' extensions.
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Offline customsawyer

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2013, 03:42:14 AM »
For what it is worth I sharpen and then set. I think it has a lot to do with how you are using your blades and what you are cutting. Just my 2 cents worth.
Two LT70s and to much other support equipment to mention.
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Offline woodmills1

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2013, 05:44:38 PM »
here is a trick I use that will work if you can plan your cutting and you cut both hard and soft species.  I buy wm 7 degree blades set for white pine, and use them twice with one sharpen.  If the universe is in alignment I can then use them twice with two sharpens in hardwood.  then they need serious set, except most of the time I hit metal in the oak.  I don't sell oak log that I think have metal as I won't get paid for them.  If a blade does2 pine jobs with no metal it doesn't owe me anything on the next oak job.


that said I set very little
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: putting set into blades
« Reply #19 on: October 30, 2013, 06:10:30 PM »
I've turned it around and am now setting, then sharpening.  lets me skip the de-burring step.   I'm sure the burr is gone the instant the blade saws into the log.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. Logrite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.


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