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Author Topic: Advice on cedar posts?  (Read 3466 times)

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Offline okmulch

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Re: Advice on cedar posts?
« Reply #20 on: February 06, 2014, 10:12:27 AM »
Some of you must be talking about a different type of cedar then what I know of.  :-\ When I lived in Alabama I built a 1100 sq ft deck using cedar posts along with a large privacy fence using cedar 4x4's. That was 15 years ago and both are still standing strong. I get numerous calls for cedar posts here in Oklahoma from the big ranches, and as Cedarman said we sold thousands and thousands of posts from our cedar mill in Alabama.
I have lived in several parts of the country and demand has always been there for cedar posts from my experience.
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Offline Cedarman

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Re: Advice on cedar posts?
« Reply #21 on: February 06, 2014, 01:55:40 PM »
Where I grew up in Tipton Co Indiana which is mostly cropland the area was cleared and fenced in the 1800's.  Cedar was the predominate post that I saw in the ground when I grew up in the 1950's.  They were all sawn tapered posts.  It took from 5500 to 8000 post per square mile to fence into fields as livestock was in most of them during a part of the year. Most farms were 50 to 100 acres and had some livestock during the first 1/2 of the 20th century.  Now very little livestock and farmed from county road to county road.  These posts had a very long life.  I know of some that were on our farm that were there at least 80 years.  We had cattle and it was rare that a post would ever be broken off. 
One good reason to use cedar over locust is that staples are much easier to use after the posts have cured.  Locust is like nailing into concrete.
For longevity and strength locust is hard to beat.  They do tend to be a little crooked however.
I used cedar round posts for when I was raising cattle in southern Indiana.  Never had an animal break one off.  I did see a bull jump the fence and break off 2 though at my brothers farm.
Cedar is a brittle wood and will take very little bending before catostrophic failure. Where cattle are bunched and penned, old railroad ties were used.

I have seen hundreds of treated pine that have rotted off at ground level and we have replaced about 40 western cedar posts that rotted off on a privacy fence in Louisville Ky.
Maybe newer treatment will make the treated posts last longer, but for my money I will always go with ERC that has a minimum of sapwood.

One reason ERC 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 is great for mailbox posts is that when hit by car they break off at ground level which make them safer.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Offline landscraper

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Re: Advice on cedar posts?
« Reply #22 on: February 06, 2014, 08:22:15 PM »
Thanks to everyone for the replies.  I like reading the responses to see what I might be overlooking.  It never occurred to me that there was much of a market for the sawn boards, but I might try to sell some as paneling or 1".  I will post some pics once I saw some posts.  If it is decent weather Saturday I will see how many I can make in an hour or two by myself.  I have way more 16' logs than I need 8' posts, so I will try and cut some tapered ones, or larger dimensions until I am comfortable that they have the strength for a cow to lean on, and I will do as Cedarman suggested and keep a some in log form for anything else that might pop up.  I appreciate the input from everyone.
Firewood is energy independence on a personal scale.


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