First time loading logs with out proper tools.

Joe Hillmann · May 27, 2014, 11:47:54 AM

I got a call about a guy two blocks away who wanted to get rid of a couple logs that the electric company had taken down.

I went over and took a look and he had three 9 foot white pine logs. Two of them were about 24" to 26" in diameter and the third was maybe 20" but had quite a few knots. They were bigger than I though I had the ability to get home.

I asked him what he wanted to do with them, give them away or sell them? He wanted $50 for them. I told him I didn't even know if I could get them out of his yard and that since they were yard trees they probably had nails so they weren't worth that much to me. I said I would give him $5 a log and that was only since he was so close to home. We ended up settling for $20 with the agreement being that neither one of us knew the actual value of the logs and I may be way over paying or way under paying but since we were both happy with it we made the deal.

Of course he also told me there couldn't be metal in the logs because his dad planted them and no one had ever put a nail into them. (I figure that is almost a garantee that I will hit metal in at least one of them.)

I had two small hardwood logs (don't know what type but may be elm) at home that I had planned to cut into 5x5's for ramps for my sawmill. I sawed them up quick to make the ramps and went to pick up the logs.

For tools I had, a 5 foot piece of pipe for a pry bar, my two ramps, a come along, a 10 foot piece of cable, two wedges, and my 1000lb capacity harbor freight trailer pulled by a minivan.

I figured I had just enough cable on my come along jack to pull the log up the ramp without resetting but if I had to I would nail the wedges onto the ramps to hold the log in place while I reset the come along jack.

Because of their location I had to start with the biggest log first. I got everything set up and instead of the log coming up the ramp the trailer got pulled to the log. I had to re set everything and I used one of my wedges to pounded into the ground beside the trailer tire to prevent the trailer from sliding. I started jacking it up again and the opposite side of the trailer started to lift off the ground instead of the log coming up. I re hooked everything up again. By this time I am feeling pretty stupid and to make things worse the owner is now watching. At this point the owner tells me he has several chains and a come along in the garage I should use since my wedge is now holding the trailer in place I won't be able to re set my come along jack if I run out of cable length. I ended up using both my jack and his when mine ran out of cable I use his to finish pulling the log onto the trailer and this time it went nice and smooth without a hitch. The owner even told me to take his chain and come along in case I needed them to unload the log.

Due to the weight I had to take the logs home one at a time. I had no idea how I was going to unload them. It turns out that was the easy part. I was able to pull the pins out of the trailer that allows it to dump then use a bumper jack to raise the front of the trailer till it dumped. The log would slide half way off then I would finish unloading by pulling the trailer forward.

So I turns out I now have three fairly large logs in my yard waiting to be sawed up and it was quite an experience that I learned a lot from.

Ocklawahaboy · May 27, 2014, 12:43:33 PM

I've done many variations of the same thing, except I'm loading onto a stripped down pop up camper. A few things that will make life easier. Some 2" diameter PVC, both full length and shorter pieces. Cheap and makes moving the logs way easier. Plywood scraps: a 2' by 4' piece of plywood will really help you move them along the ground. I also keep 3 PT 2x4s in the truck because logs will roll and slide on the easily. I usually use 2 or 3 come-alongs. If you can pop for a logrite, it will pay for itself. I use the steel loading ramps from HF. With a little time, you will amaze yourself with what you can move. For unloading, I use the ramps to go directly from the trailer to the mill when possible. Otherwise, I make use of a tree in the yard. Tie to it and just drive away.

thecfarm · May 27, 2014, 04:57:10 PM

Ayup,you got the sawdust fever. And than some. :D

drobertson · May 27, 2014, 05:20:46 PM

Loading is not that bad, a few ramps to par buckle them up then go. I like cables better than chain, but whatever is handy. it can go fast, and at times be a lil struggle, having ramps and a good direction is important. Slow and steady, watching for the big end to out run the smaller end. Sound like you have a some logs to saw now.

Cguignard · May 27, 2014, 07:49:35 PM

If you had a 60" logrite you could have rolled them home! :D Sounds like you had a fun.

backwoods sawyer · May 28, 2014, 11:37:36 AM

Quote from: Cguignard on May 27, 2014, 07:49:35 PM
If you had a 60" logrite you could have rolled them home! :D Sounds like you had a fun.

Get two 60" log rite's so you have someone to B.S. with on the strole home with the log :D

Joe Hillmann · May 28, 2014, 11:57:40 AM

Quote from: drobertson on May 27, 2014, 05:20:46 PM
Loading is not that bad, a few ramps to par buckle them up then go. I like cables better than chain, but whatever is handy. it can go fast, and at times be a lil struggle, having ramps and a good direction is important. Slow and steady, watching for the big end to out run the smaller end. Sound like you have a some logs to saw now.

I found the chain to be much better. When I needed to shorten it I could just re hook it to itself anywhere. With cable I had to re hook somewhere else on the trailer or wrap it around something while being careful not to wrap it around to sharp of a corner that would kink it.

If I had a winch that had room for mare than 12 feet of cable I may think differently about it.

My neighbor is a scrap iron dealer. He tends to pull out antiques and tools that he thinks he may be able to re sell for more than scrap price. One wall of his barn is full of logging tools. He probably has 50 or more chains hanging on the wall, dozens of chain binders, a few cables, a couple winches, at least one cant hook and a bunch of axes, mauls and wedges.

We have already agreed on him selling me the cant hook but I also want to go over there and maybe buy two chains a winch and a couple wedges from him.

Joe Hillmann · May 28, 2014, 11:59:03 AM

Quote from: Cguignard on May 27, 2014, 07:49:35 PM
If you had a 60" logrite you could have rolled them home! :D Sounds like you had a fun.

The first log may have been faster and easier to roll home rather than using the trailer :D

taylorsmissbeehaven · May 28, 2014, 02:10:56 PM

Log rite is a must! What a great tool. I have moved a lot of logs just like that. Each adventure makes you a little better at it. The main thing is making sawdust!Brian

backwoods sawyer · May 28, 2014, 09:58:45 PM

Having two allows you to steer the log not just roll it, and gives you better control of the logs that want to rock back on you.

Now for logs like Wild Bill likes to play with the heal of your boot may me a better way to roll them ;D I keep a set of ice tongs for those logs.

Every time you haul logs learn from the last trip and be safe.
I had a box elder stump arrive on one of those fold up trailers after a 200 plus mile jurney.

dboyt · May 30, 2014, 09:17:09 AM

You've got a good start. Now you're ready for a bigger trailer & power winch. Pretty soon, you'll find yourself traveling 40 miles just to get one monster log. I do NOT recommend using cant hooks to roll logs up a ramp. Way too risky. You have to be out of the path if when the log rolls back down.

BrentRobinson · June 01, 2014, 11:00:39 PM

Skip the gym this week. you earned it.

Joe Hillmann · June 01, 2014, 11:13:34 PM

Quote from: dboyt on May 30, 2014, 09:17:09 AM
You've got a good start. Now you're ready for a bigger trailer & power winch. Pretty soon, you'll find yourself traveling 40 miles just to get one monster log. I do NOT recommend using cant hooks to roll logs up a ramp. Way too risky. You have to be out of the path if when the log rolls back down.

The cant hook is only used to get the log lined up with the ramps so it can be winched on.

Joe Hillmann · June 03, 2014, 10:17:04 PM

I now have the proper tools to load logs, I just picked up a tractor and loader last night, I plan to put forks on the bucket to make it more handy for moving logs and lumber.

Dad2FourWI · June 03, 2014, 11:23:03 PM

New toys!!!! :D

What kind of tractor?

If you are putting teeth on, what about some kind of grapple arms??? I have teeth but have often thought about how I might add some arms on the top....

Lately, I have been tipping the bucket all the way over and then using two chains to carry my bigger logs... this moves the the center of gravity back a bit and allows me to move bigger logs with my Ford model 1910...

-Dad2FourWI

Joe Hillmann · June 04, 2014, 12:45:19 AM

It is an Allis Chalmers WD from the late 40' or early 50's. It has a narrow front with now power steering. My plan is to mount the loader on it backwards so the bucket is behind the tractor rather than in front of it. I have to do some measuring and torch work on it before I can do that though. I am also looking for an after market ROPS for it but am having no luck.

The loader has a trip bucket. I plan to set up the forks so I can tilt them using a 12volt winch, I would like to go full hydraulic on it but I am unable to scrounge up the parts I need and buying new is prohibitive.

LorenB · July 03, 2014, 09:57:05 PM

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on June 04, 2014, 12:45:19 AM
It is an Allis Chalmers WD from the late 40' or early 50's. It has a narrow front with now power steering. My plan is to mount the loader on it backwards so the bucket is behind the tractor rather than in front of it.

Joe,

Be careful carrying a heavy load (like a log) behind the tractor. It's easy to have the tractor tip backwards with that configuration, especially when traveling uphill. Usually it will stop when the load hits the ground, but it's possible for it to go all the way over.

I have carried logs on my front loader on my farm tractor that were heavy enough that the rear wheels didn't have enough traction to back up a hill. I had to use 4WD to get it to move.

Steering will be less effective with a heavy weight hanging off the back, but if your tractor has separate (right and left) brake pedals you can use those to steer if necessary.

I would urge you to look into a log arch like those made by Logrite. I have the fetching arch and a larger one. They both make moving a heavy log much easier, especially if you use a winch and the fetching arch. I love mine.

– Loren

Ianab · July 04, 2014, 01:18:21 AM

Good advice, if you have a load on the forks like that, don't lift it high. That way, if you do overbalance, it sinks 12" to the ground and stops. You end up looking a bit silly with the front wheel 2 ft in the air, but that's seldom fatal.

An arch is an even better idea. Converts your log into a trailered load and you can move maybe 5X the load that way, with more safety. Lots of posts about DIY log arches that can be built with scrap steel and some junkyard parts.

Ian

bandmiller2 · July 04, 2014, 07:15:21 AM

I seldom "fetch" logs but years ago made a single axle HD low tilt bed trailer with a strong nose gear. I tilt the bed and suck the logs on with a good comealong. I have an electric winch but usally just use the hand one. Seems if a fella made a arch type trailer with a removable bed he could arch the log as usual then put the bed boards in and lower the log to be street legal. Frank C.

dboyt · July 04, 2014, 05:27:34 PM

Post some photos when you get it built! I generally load logs by parbuckling them up a ramp on the side. I can't imagine how I'd get along without my log arch, though it was tough to convince my wife that I need a "fetching wench". I also use a PTO winch on my tractor. It saves a lot of work getting to the logs.