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Author Topic: making weights for top of stacks  (Read 5457 times)

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Offline ozarkgem

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #20 on: September 14, 2014, 06:31:58 AM »
Good ideas YH. I hadn't thought about a middle board putting stress on the other boards. I like your drying area.
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #21 on: September 14, 2014, 08:46:32 AM »
I sticker every 2' and put two blocks, 50 pounds each, every 4' or so. I may put more if its a wide crotch or something I suspect might cup. The thing I like about blocks is that they still permit airflow unlike a five gallon bucket or something that could leave a big black mold circle. Blocks are also cheap and easy to find. I got a couple ton worth for only $50 on craigslist. I've unfortunately sold a lot of discount slabs because I thought simply stickering them was good enough. The top slabs in the stack turned into potato chips or firewood. Now everything gets weight on top. Its definitely not like drying lumber. Slabs are easy to ruin.

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Good post and pix.  I like how you place some weight close to the ends of the slab too.  Also I noticed that your blocks totally span the width of the top slab - which makes sense as that way the weight is well distributed.

Thanks for sharing this.

Scott
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #22 on: September 14, 2014, 08:49:26 AM »
YH, that looks like a good system for drying lumber.  Nice air drying shed too!  I've noticed the same thing about a bad board (or a thick sticker) in the middle of an unweighted stack causing the rest of the boards to have a bend in them.

Pretty clever to store your dried inventory on top of the stacks for extra weight too!
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
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Offline red

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #23 on: September 14, 2014, 09:06:01 AM »
An old waterbed mattress can hold a lot of weight or 55 gal drums plus all you will need is a garden hose
We have a lot of good boys and girls in harms way
lets all support them and their familys.

Offline tule peak timber

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #24 on: September 14, 2014, 09:59:32 AM »
Where my wood goes for the first couple of weeks...

   The slab is flat and full of steel, while the rest of my storage is on dirt. Rob
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Offline ozarkgem

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #25 on: September 14, 2014, 06:38:11 PM »
Where my wood goes for the first couple of weeks...

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)  The slab is flat and full of steel, while the rest of my storage is on dirt. Rob
are those all slabs?  what size stickers do you use? Do you rotate the top ones out after a few weeks?  Nice looking stack. I guess you don't worry about rain from what I read.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Offline tule peak timber

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #26 on: September 14, 2014, 07:01:06 PM »
Ozark, That pic is of a job we have ongoing with a college. Yes, all 2 1/2 inch thick slabs on 1/4 inch stickers. I do rotate drier lifts onto fresh cut lifts, then out to the storage yard on dirt ,bunked up. I try to handle the lifts as little as possible as it just eats up time/profits. This year - less than 1 inch of rain so far....
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2014, 10:52:07 PM »
Tule,
Very impressive, no crooked boards in the bottom of those stacks. 8)
What kind of forklift are you using to lift such heavy lumber packs so high?  Looks like the forklift can't get on the concrete pad, but must be sitting on the earth? Is it an all terrain or telehandler?
YH
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Offline tule peak timber

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #28 on: September 16, 2014, 08:21:36 AM »
I call this my "truing slab ". The wood goes here after coming off the mill and doesn't stay here very long, only long enough to drop moisture significantly before going to other storage in pole barns or an open lot on bunks. Works pretty well for my style of work , but as someone pointed out earlier in the thread , errant boards still develop twist and crook - no matter what....I use a Champ all terrain forklift , and recently bought an additional Cat R-80. Both are high lift units . The reason I don't stack higher is because of the frequent earthquakes at my place and the seasonal high winds. I think I get better results with more weight...... Rob
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Offline ozarkgem

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2014, 07:05:13 PM »
never thought about earthquakes knocking your stack over. That would suck.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Offline tule peak timber

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #30 on: September 16, 2014, 07:42:08 PM »
Not to discount the wind either...A year or two ago wind tumbled some oak boards across the yard and took out the running board and door panel on a blazer parked 50 feet away from the stack. If I run rain covers I use 1/2 inch rope to double tie the cover to the stack. We learn the hard-way around here  ;D
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Offline jimF

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2014, 08:01:22 PM »
While some weight may be helpful, and non straight grain attributes to the problem, the biggest factor in lumber distortion is non uniform air flow.  More air flow on one side of the board is the cause of most lumber distortion, in or outside the kiln.  It does not matter whether the lumber is thick or thin it can either be kept flat with uniform airflow or made into a pretzel with nonuniform airflow.

Offline Den Socling

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #32 on: September 16, 2014, 09:51:00 PM »
I don't know about that. Thick pieces can have more grain variation and can be more difficult. I've seen them lift plates in my vac kilns. With no air flow.

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2014, 10:28:15 PM »
there's your problem - no air flow  :)

Offline Den Socling

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #34 on: September 17, 2014, 10:09:27 AM »
 :D

Offline Kingcha

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #35 on: September 27, 2014, 09:02:24 PM »
I made a weight this summer and have only just used it.    I basically built a 4x4 pallet with built in stickers on the bottom to give plenty of air flow.   The top I just poured a 3" layer of concrete in a box.   I am able to lift it with my bucket forks and place it on top of the pile.   It seemed faster then hand piling blocks.

Matt
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Offline ozarkgem

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #36 on: September 28, 2014, 06:14:50 AM »
I poured a floor the other day and I made a form out of some 2x12's 4' long and used the left over concrete to make some weights. I put a rebar lifting eye in them also
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Offline Glenn1

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #37 on: September 28, 2014, 11:16:56 AM »
I was looking at Yellowhammer's post and the picture of kiln dried lumber sitting on top of pallets of green lumber.  From reading his web page, I understand that he will be out of commission for awhile recovering from a hip transplant.

 I was wondering how long you could leave the kiln dried lumber  "out in the open" before the moisture content would considerably increase. Would it still be considered "kiln dried lumber"?

Yellowhammer, hope you are feeling better  and that you will be running marathons in no time.   ;D
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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #38 on: September 28, 2014, 08:08:24 PM »
If the kiln dried lumber is dead stacked, it will take a good long while for it to gain a lot of moisture except for the top boards that are exposed to the air.  I suspect that it would take months, but the kiln dried will eventually resort back to air dried. 
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Offline Glenn1

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Re: making weights for top of stacks
« Reply #39 on: September 29, 2014, 06:32:38 AM »
If the kiln dried lumber is dead stacked, it will take a good long while for it to gain a lot of moisture except for the top boards that are exposed to the air.  I suspect that it would take months, but the kiln dried will eventually resort back to air dried.

Does the term "dead stacked" refer to lumber where the stickers have been removed?
Nyle 53 Kiln, New Holland Skid Steer, Kaufman Gooseneck Trailer, Whitney 32A Planer


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