Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods (Read 283394 times)

Bibbyman · « **on:** July 25, 2004, 08:27:09 AM »

There are probably a hundred little and big mods to sawmills we’ve posted here on the Forum – but they are scattered out over lots of threads and topics. I thought I’d start a new thread just for ideas and mods on mills. If you’ve posted a mod before that’s buried out there some place, please consider re-constructing the post here or posting a link back to it.

Here is a simple mod I made this morning. Don’t know why I didn’t think of it sooner.

On the Wood-Mizer mill, there is this plate about 5x6” that covers a cutout on the idler side of the blade housing. Bless Wood-Mizer’s heart, they used 6 5/16x3/4” long plated hex bolts and nuts with locking inserts. Quality stuff. The plate itself looks to be 1/8” thick. Plenty strong.

"As built" outside

"As built" inside

The problem is, they assembled everything on the wrong side. See… The plate, nuts and excess bolt length is sticking inside the blade housing. Ever struggle getting a broken blade out from behind one or more of these bolts sticking out?

I replaced the hex head bolts with button headed cap screws 5/16x1/2”. I replaced the plate on the outside and put the button heads on the inside. That should make broken blade removal a little bet easier I’m a’thinking.

Changed plate to outside of housing.

"Inside of housing showing button head bolts.

The button head bolts were not exactly what I was looking for. Plain pan head plated bolts 5/8” long would have worked better. A gripping type flat head bolt would have worked even better. But this is what I found at Westlakes. Even using the existing hex head bolts and turning them around and moving the plate to the outside would achieve quite a bit of extra clearance.

Gilman · « **Reply #1 on:** July 26, 2004, 01:14:44 PM »

Bibbyman,
Since I don't ever break blades I don't think I'll need to modify my mill

I think I'll wait until I get one back there and can't get it out, cuss myself for not reworking the coverplate with button head bolts, kick the tires, and quit for the day.

On the other hand, I'm looking for suggestions on clamping short awkward pieces. I tried an I-beam bewteen the two manual back stops, It worked okay, but that only got me down to 8" from the deck. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #2 on:** July 26, 2004, 02:09:24 PM »

2 sacrificial boards for sawing short stuff. Lay 1 on the bunks for holding the piece, stand the other one up against the log stops to clamp against. You should be able to saw clear to the bunks, as long as there ae no weird knots or something stopping the clamping action.

Stump Jumper · « **Reply #3 on:** July 26, 2004, 03:11:59 PM »

I put an electric 12 volt fuel pump in line for priming the 42 hp diesel engine when i change fuel filters or run it out of fuel.Pumping the manual leaver on the engine mounted fuel pump just dont get the job done.

Bibbyman · « **Reply #4 on:** July 26, 2004, 04:34:19 PM »

Good tip Stump Jumper,

Got any more details?

Like what kind of pump did you used - brand part number?

How did you hook it it the line and wire it up?

Got any pictures?

BBTom · « **Reply #5 on:** July 26, 2004, 05:48:51 PM »

That is a fantastic idea S-J, I got so upset with that idiotic fuel filter being before the pump ( manual fuel pump does not suck vacuum worth a crap), that I just removed it and threw it away. I swear I get better fuel economy now, and I guarantee that it is easier to reprime after running out of fuel.

Two weeks ago, I was able to saw 7500 bdft of mostly 4/4 hardwood ( elm, ash, oak, hickory) some poplar, and a little pine, using only 10 gal of fuel. I thought that was fantastic! Love that kubota engine!!!

jdunmyer · « **Reply #6 on:** July 26, 2004, 06:42:58 PM »

IF you have compressed air available, one of the easiest ways in the world to prime a filter is with a suction blowgun. That's what I've used on my VW Diesels "forever".

Just put it on the outlet side of the filter and suck until fuel comes out. Connect 'er up and go.

Best 2 mods I ever made was the hydrostatic carriage drive and the small chain hoist for log turning.

RMay · « **Reply #7 on:** July 26, 2004, 07:07:05 PM »

I put a R.V. level on the mill . I was always forgetting my hand Level when I as away form home.

ElectricAl · « **Reply #8 on:** July 26, 2004, 07:13:32 PM »

EZ · « **Reply #9 on:** July 27, 2004, 03:39:50 AM »

jdunmyer, very interested about your hydrostratic drive. Pictures and more input would be greatly appreciated.
EZ

ronwood · « **Reply #10 on:** July 27, 2004, 02:37:18 PM »

ElectricAl,

I gather from the picture that you added an electric motor to the saw. Is that a correect statement?

Not done any mods to my mill yet since it is still under warrenty. Might add the mod to the loader arms that are now on the 2004 Woodmizer.

Thanks
Ron

jdunmyer · « **Reply #11 on:** July 27, 2004, 02:46:30 PM »

EZ,
There's some pics on my website that show the mechanical connections on my home-made hydrostatic drive. Details are as follows:

Small Char-Lynn motor, John Deere 450 bulldozer pump, 15Hp electric motor drive on the pump (I'm sure it doesn't need that much, but I also used to use the hydraulic unit for my log splitter), and a standard 4-way open-center valve. There's also a pair of back-to-back pressure relief valves right at the motor.

The initial trial was not good, the valve acted about like a light switch. I removed the valve spool and gently ground on the edges of the lands so the valve would start leaking (internally) as soon as the lever started moving. It took 2 or 3 trys to get it right, making sure to wash the valve spool thoroughly before reassembly. Coupled with the long lever on the valve, it now works just the way you'd want it to, it's very smooth and controllable.

See:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer

click on Sawmill

Stump Jumper · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2004, 05:09:09 PM »

Got some pictures today hope this will explain things a little more for ya's.

This picture shows a Napa fuel pump. Sorry don't know a part number. I salvaged it off an old pick up.

You can see that I don't have hose clamps on yet as it was a temporary test installation.

The fuel pump is mounted right under the fuel tank to an existing back panel bolt.

I ran jumper wires from the power terminals in the sylenoid box.

I open up the bleeder screws at the filters and run it until they get fuel. Close the bleeder screws on the filters and open the bleeder screws on the injection pump until they get fuel. Close the bleeder screws and I start the engine with the electronic fuel pump still running for a few minutes. Then I shut it off disconnect the fuel pump wires and we are good to go. The engine fuel pump will now suck fuel through the electric fuel pump with no problems. I suppose I ought to put some hose clamps on and wire a fuse and switch in.

ElectricAl · « **Reply #13 on:** July 27, 2004, 05:31:36 PM »

Ron,

Picture is worth a thousand words

ElectricAl · « **Reply #14 on:** July 27, 2004, 05:45:10 PM »

Ok, here is a mod that might be more useful to the WM walkers.

It's a platform to stand on as the sawhead moves throught the cut.

It bolts to the lower cam follower mounts and goes under the battery box.

It's hard to see, but the bottom of the platform is 5" off the floor. This way you can walk if you want. Also, you won't hook your toes when walking past.

ElectricAl · « **Reply #15 on:** July 27, 2004, 06:23:26 PM »

Want to see our first attempt at not walking ;

We called it the Jolly Trolly

We used this off and on for over a year. The real downfall was the bearings broke at least every other month.
The Trolly would go into a high speed wable
(like your shopping cart) then the wheel would fall off

.

DR_Buck · « **Reply #16 on:** July 27, 2004, 08:21:39 PM »

Electric Al,

Nice idea with the jolly trolly. I assume that the electric version WMs don't have wheels? To bad that won't work on the portable units..

DR_Buck · « **Reply #17 on:** July 27, 2004, 08:31:33 PM »

A few ideas I'm considering for my LT40HD25:

Replacing the feed tube for the lubemizer with a longer tube that will follow the contour of the idler wheel when the blade guide is moved in and out. This will keep the tube "UP" out of the way and keep it from getting caught when trying to halve large cants.

The 2nd mod I'm considering is an idea courtesy of Rick, VA Sawyer. And, that's add a second battery to power the hydraulic pump when the saw head is down the deck off of the electrical contact. This will save lots of aggravation during those times when I discover I forgot to lower the clamp or dogs after I start the blade into the log.

Neil_B · « **Reply #18 on:** July 28, 2004, 04:50:13 AM »

This is a pic of my switch that I installed for the carraige return.
I don't use it when the mill is running at full speed but it works well when idling back. I can go clean things up a bit or get another log ready on the arms and not have to stand there to stop the return.
I still have the clamp holding it on because I'm playing with the location of it due to the fact that there is some drifting in the hydraulics when the power is cut off to it.

ElectricAl · « **Reply #19 on:** July 28, 2004, 05:10:31 AM »

DrBuck,

You bring up a good point about the axle

It's been 8 years since we pulled ours off

Guess I forgot about it

Disregard :-/

Forestry ForumSponsored by:

Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods (Read 283394 times)

Forestry Forum
Sponsored by: