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Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods  (Read 305079 times)

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Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1340 on: May 30, 2018, 03:23:21 PM »
Heres a minor mod that turns out to be a significant re enforcement of the board return arm for the LT40 type mills.



 



Just finished painting it. will get a pretty photo up when it dry.



This looks better! 
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. 2018 F150
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logrite 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Offline keyote

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Re: Useful sawmill mods beams over 21'
« Reply #1341 on: June 02, 2018, 07:15:39 PM »
Ok took a couple long nights but i read the thread and great minds think alike. Been out of sawing a while but thinking of getting a new saw now retired.
I didnt see one trick i figured out my first  couple months maybe because its not a mod more a technique no doubt many of you figured this out  but some newbies might benefit. one of my first jobs was a pretty big job for a rich guy building all sorts of building on his new homestead. and he needed 24'-6" beams. i wanted to make him happy and frankly i thought bigger is better when charging by the BF.a woodmizer will cut 21' here's how you can cut longer beams when mobile and occasionally asked if you can. And ide recommend charging extra and keeping the ability to yourself until you figure out if its in your interest to do it at all

get your  log up on the bed like normal as close to the  hitch as you can start you cut just let the log hang off the end

make your opening  cut as far as you can then turn stop the blade and carefully back up in side the cut you might have to lift the slab a bit and slide a sticker under it.


take your chainsaw or a hand saw and cut of the slab just before where you stopped the  sawmill blade get rid of the slab your blade is free now, go back to go.

do what you always do no flop the log ove 180 and make your paralel cut again stop the blade when it can go no farther and carefully back the blade up the distance you still need to saw the log.

but this time you're laying flat so now you can slide the log on its first face back towards the blade. if you backed up your blade far enough back, when you then slide the slab back to the blade again the uncut portion is within the saws cutting range and the excess is sticking over the other end of the saw, finish your cut, that top side is now completely flat. The uncut portion on the bot side is hanging below the  deck level because the bunks dont extend all the way to the end and the last one is  able to pivot. make note of the blade height.

now you can flip it over and and carefully lower the blade to the height of the slab top and finish slabbing the first side.

repeat this for the perpendicular sides and you have a cant.you may have decided to hell with the side wood and made you slab cuts to give you a cant the size of the beam you were looking for.But if its a  huge log and thats crazy waste dont worry make the cant as parsimoniously as you usually would because one its squared up and can slide back and forth easily  the side boards are not hard to get and have lots of BF in them.

Its just a trick for mobile long beams on occasion. Here's another.

you may have found on particularly long and small logs like with a 4" top that some cheapskate farmer wants 4x4s out of  lol (never again will i custom saw) that even though you carefully sighted the log (what there is of it) that as you cut it begins to lift up on the end sometimes during your opening cut sometimes after the first  cut. if youre new you may not see it happening and think  your mill is cutting badly when the  cant turns out  tapered  but eventually you  catch it in the act, your cutting is  relieving internal stresses.watch for it because unless you have already modified your mill to have hydraulics past the contact strip ( definitely do this) you have to catch it before you pass it. tis is tricky but i promise with practice you can do it perfectly all day long dont ask me how i know. what you do is raise the near toe board slowly as you cut to push the far end of the log back down  on the bed. at first practice doing it with the blade stopped but eventually it will be like  moving your  blade guides in and out around knots. Bonus tip. if the log is say more like a 6'' top that  farmer Mcskint wants not only a 4x4  but some 1x4 side boards I MODIFIED BY ADMIN KNOCK IT OFF you knot they are like this. and this cant you cut is now a perfectly square banana heres what to do turn it crown up against the raised back stops and clamp it medium firm now lower the stops and the clamp as well if need be  to pull it flat to the deck and take your side boards. this works well on resawing and sometimes even large cants will move on you and you need to force them flat before sawing boards off them if its a  decent cant and you caught this check it for square before proceeding in case you missed a move on another cut or in case its  twisted if so take a couple sacrificial slices to square it while forced flat.

I actually got frustrated enough that i made up end dogs i could hold the ends down with  

Offline keyote

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Re: Useful sawmill mods wireless hydraulics
« Reply #1342 on: June 02, 2018, 07:34:37 PM »
once you have hydraulics free of head location by various methods you want to be able to not have to walk back to the levers sometimes you could rig up redundant controllers for all or just certain crucial functions like say being able to  move the  stops and clamp while  flipping and sorting edgings or maybe you have set yourself up with a mod that is hydraulically controlled like a deck or board flipper that plug into the saws system but must head back to the levers. especially  guys that are  head wireless and are moving around a bit the company above is just the first  thing i found yesterday when i realized once i had a hydraulic bed extension and wireless head rig i was going to be really annoyed not having my hydraulics as mobile as all my other controls.

which  reminds me. can anyone explain why i would not prefer the wireless head control to a command control or even a 70 wireless comand control. It seems to me if all my  head rig controls are in the remote then when i am standing at the hydraulic controls i have effectively  the exact same capability of a command control   1500 cheaper, but i also have the added advantage of being able to move around and still control all the head rig  controls. why on earth would i prefer the com control to that.
I can see maybe there's an argument for the 70s wireless command control because you can at least  take the hydraulic controls as well  to a stationary location you prefer for some reason. But even so I would bet that is always going to be the other end of the mill and so what would it take to move the hydraulics to the end of the mill and use the wireless from anywhere, and furthermore if you have the money for that set up would you prefer to be totally wireless instead and probably a lot cheaper than a 70 at that.

Offline DR_Buck

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1343 on: June 02, 2018, 09:15:07 PM »
Heres a minor mod that turns out to be a significant re enforcement of the board return arm for the LT40 type mills.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)


Just finished painting it. will get a pretty photo up when it dry.
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)


This looks better!
I see what you've done, but for the life of me I can't figure why it needs reinforcing.   You're dragging back boards not cants or logs.    I've pulled back some pretty hefty stuff, especially thick slabs and have never had a problem with the return. 
Hidden Acres Farm
Been there, done that.   Never got caught

Wood-Mizer LT40 Super- Wide HDG38
Lucas Dedicated 60" Slabber

Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1344 on: June 03, 2018, 06:47:30 AM »
Not picking the head up enuff to clear the cant will bend the arm, Ask 4x4 about it. :D :D :D :D :D
I have 5000 hrs on mine never a problem. ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
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License NH softwood grader.

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1345 on: June 06, 2018, 10:30:16 PM »
SHHHHHH Peter! Don't tell every body!

Once it bent you gota fix it. eve if you have LEARNED not to do it again!
 
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. 2018 F150
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logrite 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Offline Nomad

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1346 on: July 08, 2018, 05:50:00 AM »
   Not much of a "mod," but a quick fix I like better than the original.
     A while back my lube tank self-destructed from the sun.  On Saturday afternoon.  With a large SYP job coming up starting on Tuesday.  No lube was not going to be an option.
     I did some looking and found this available at a local sporting goods store.



 

     It's 7 gallon instead of 5, so it's a bit wider and taller.  Needed a " spacer under it.  The cap is tapped for a spigot with the same thread pitch as a " hose bib, so with some effort the bib screwed in with no tools.  The lube hose needed no mods.  The original bungee straps are stretched to the limit, but still work.  No interference with the mast when raised.  You can still see through it to see the liquid level.  And now, when it needs filling, it takes a full 5 gallons.  Been using it for a couple of weeks now and it works like a charm!
     Made by Reliance and called an "Aqua-Tainer."




Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
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Lucas DSM

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1347 on: July 09, 2018, 12:10:56 PM »
I used one of those for awhile too and they do work quite well but I found the filling and lifting the jug off and on to be a bit cumber some with a shoulder that don't quite work like it used to. My mod for the tank is back a ways (reply#957) in this thread and i now use a 12 volt RV water pump to fill the tank.
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. 2018 F150
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logrite 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Offline Just Right

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1348 on: July 09, 2018, 12:32:04 PM »
And it is a bit cheaper than one from Woodmizer.  I like it!
If you are enjoying what you are doing,  is it still work?

Offline bwstout

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1349 on: August 05, 2018, 05:07:25 PM »
i found this mod in a different thread and have bought everything according to the recommendation to  but after following the schematic i only have forward and no reverse could anyone help. I don't see well and cant tell if it is a 5 or 8 is used on the relays. here is a pic of the controller and relays with a drum switch. 



 
home built mill

Offline bwstout

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1350 on: August 05, 2018, 07:06:14 PM »
i found this mod in a different thread and have bought everything according to the recommendation to  but after following the schematic i only have forward and no reverse could anyone help. I don't see well and cant tell if it is a 5 or 8 is used on the relays. here is a pic of the controller and relays with a drum switch.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

go it figured out
home built mill

Offline charles mann

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1351 on: November 04, 2018, 06:35:50 PM »
I've been working on that same issue for 6 months now and still don't have anything for storing blades on the mill. If you get a good idea for it , you sure will be my hero.  ;D
VA-Sawyer
Ebay or a military surplus store. See if there are hard plastic 20mm or 30mm, even the 40mm bofors ammo cans should have the demensiins required for maybe a LT40 or smaller and similar size mill. 
I think even a pelican 1620 case would work, and even with foam or wood dividers, that size case will hold 5-6 blades. 
Temple, Tx
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1352 on: November 05, 2018, 01:55:35 AM »
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1353 on: November 05, 2018, 08:18:25 AM »
Wow, over 4 years ago and the original Gorilla tape is still there and holding well. 


It does have a different/better lid which is held in place with a strap instead of a bungee.  I doubt that the Magic Can will ever wear out.  ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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Offline PAmizerman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1354 on: December 21, 2018, 10:07:40 AM »
Hydraulics everywhere update.
I ran a 2awg welding wire through my cat track for hydraulics everywhere. I just ran it through and zip tied it to all the other tubing run through there. After about 1000 hours this is what it looks like.


 

So I bought some split wire loom tubing to hopefully protect the hot and ground wires for my hydraulics and also my wire that runs my accuset 2 upgrade.
Hope this helps.



 
Woodmizer lt40 super remote 42hp Kubota diesel. Accuset II
Hydraulics everywhere
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Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1355 on: December 21, 2018, 10:19:43 AM »
I've had two 1/0 cables for hydraulics everywhere (about 26 ft) from the solenoid through the cat track back to the hydraulic pumps for many years now.   Plus a 1/0 cable from battery negative back through the track exiting to the frame (ground) at the track support.  Also kept the sliding ground from battery negative to the lower rail.

But I have disconnected the positive cables and re-installed the hydraulic strip recently when my battery started to fail (battery 2 yr old, its failure nothing to do with the hydraulic mods, but that's what brought this to my attention).  Reason is that I see that there is an automatic constant voltage drop of about 0.5-1V during hydraulic use.  One can look this up in wire tables, a 1/0 cable 26 ft long will drop that much when 50-150 amps run through it. I have also measured it both the voltage drop and the current.    This seems to be a constant impairment which should be better with the much shorter stock setup.  I will check the voltage drop of the stock setup, before I pull the cables, but that's where I am now.  

I am much more experienced now than I was before installing the hydraulics everywhere and am thinking that I can better deal with the less versatile hydraulic situation going forward,  than before.  I will keep the 1/0 ground cable as an auxiliary backup.  My cat track should be a lot lighter again.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide,  Logrite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Offline mrwoodpecker

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1356 on: December 21, 2018, 10:44:18 PM »
I got tired of stopping to clean the sawdust from the bandmill wheels on my LT15 so I took a shoe shine brush cut it in half and fastened it between the wheel and housing so the v belts skim against it.  After 4 logs opened up the cover to start the process of scraping the belts but to my delight they were clean!  It was clean when I used the diesel lube and it was also clean when I used the water lube.    I had brushes on the wheels on my upright band saw so I figured they would work on my bandmill.  I kind of think the fine bristles work better than hard ones but I will have to wait for further tests why monkey with something that is working.  I also added 2 inch brushes in front of the track rollers on both sides,  this is in addition to the wiper and felt system that comes on this model.  They also work, just cut off the handles and F26 ed them to the steel.

Another thing I did to the bunks I got tired of repainting the bunks on the mill so I took some steel yard sticks and gorilla glued (construction adhesive) them down I think I had to cut off about 5 inches, anyway this also raised the last board cut about 1/16 which was a good thing for me, since the last board was always a !@##$@ for me.  It cost about $4 each at a home box store.

I will not bore you any further but I did also redesign my auto feed works system on the manual mill.  I had designed it to run off a gear motor with an ac motor but they can not take a lot of start forward reverse. So I changed to a dc motor.  I designed it where the chain is continually running forward and I can just engage a fixed sprocket to pull the head forward then when through the cut disengage it an pull the head back.  This way I can cut manually if I want to or engage the roller chain if I want to, sometimes I will start the cut in the log and engage the roller chain and let it do the work etc.  If anyone is interested I have some photos I will try to post but most of that is greek to me.


Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1357 on: December 22, 2018, 01:09:42 AM »
What type of steel were the yard sticks?  Were they stainless?  That would be nice for oak.  I usually only see aluminum ones.

I'd like to see some pictures of your head feed design.  I can't quite 'picture' it.
John Sawicky

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Offline Woodpecker52

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1358 on: December 22, 2018, 10:45:15 PM »
trying to post pictures hard to do with 1952 model brain.
Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900 Kubota L3830F tractor

Offline Woodpecker52

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1359 on: December 22, 2018, 11:17:05 PM »
Seems like I have posted to my gallery will try tomorrow to post to proper place.
Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900 Kubota L3830F tractor


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