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Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods  (Read 281431 times)

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Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1340 on: May 30, 2018, 03:23:21 PM »
Heres a minor mod that turns out to be a significant re enforcement of the board return arm for the LT40 type mills.



 



Just finished painting it. will get a pretty photo up when it dry.



This looks better! 
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. 2018 F150
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logrite 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Offline keyote

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Re: Useful sawmill mods beams over 21'
« Reply #1341 on: June 02, 2018, 07:15:39 PM »
Ok took a couple long nights but i read the thread and great minds think alike. Been out of sawing a while but thinking of getting a new saw now retired.
I didnt see one trick i figured out my first  couple months maybe because its not a mod more a technique no doubt many of you figured this out  but some newbies might benefit. one of my first jobs was a pretty big job for a rich guy building all sorts of building on his new homestead. and he needed 24'-6" beams. i wanted to make him happy and frankly i thought bigger is better when charging by the BF.a woodmizer will cut 21' here's how you can cut longer beams when mobile and occasionally asked if you can. And ide recommend charging extra and keeping the ability to yourself until you figure out if its in your interest to do it at all

get your  log up on the bed like normal as close to the  hitch as you can start you cut just let the log hang off the end

make your opening  cut as far as you can then turn stop the blade and carefully back up in side the cut you might have to lift the slab a bit and slide a sticker under it.


take your chainsaw or a hand saw and cut of the slab just before where you stopped the  sawmill blade get rid of the slab your blade is free now, go back to go.

do what you always do no flop the log ove 180 and make your paralel cut again stop the blade when it can go no farther and carefully back the blade up the distance you still need to saw the log.

but this time you're laying flat so now you can slide the log on its first face back towards the blade. if you backed up your blade far enough back, when you then slide the slab back to the blade again the uncut portion is within the saws cutting range and the excess is sticking over the other end of the saw, finish your cut, that top side is now completely flat. The uncut portion on the bot side is hanging below the  deck level because the bunks dont extend all the way to the end and the last one is  able to pivot. make note of the blade height.

now you can flip it over and and carefully lower the blade to the height of the slab top and finish slabbing the first side.

repeat this for the perpendicular sides and you have a cant.you may have decided to hell with the side wood and made you slab cuts to give you a cant the size of the beam you were looking for.But if its a  huge log and thats crazy waste dont worry make the cant as parsimoniously as you usually would because one its squared up and can slide back and forth easily  the side boards are not hard to get and have lots of BF in them.

Its just a trick for mobile long beams on occasion. Here's another.

you may have found on particularly long and small logs like with a 4" top that some cheapskate farmer wants 4x4s out of  lol (never again will i custom saw) that even though you carefully sighted the log (what there is of it) that as you cut it begins to lift up on the end sometimes during your opening cut sometimes after the first  cut. if youre new you may not see it happening and think  your mill is cutting badly when the  cant turns out  tapered  but eventually you  catch it in the act, your cutting is  relieving internal stresses.watch for it because unless you have already modified your mill to have hydraulics past the contact strip ( definitely do this) you have to catch it before you pass it. tis is tricky but i promise with practice you can do it perfectly all day long dont ask me how i know. what you do is raise the near toe board slowly as you cut to push the far end of the log back down  on the bed. at first practice doing it with the blade stopped but eventually it will be like  moving your  blade guides in and out around knots. Bonus tip. if the log is say more like a 6'' top that  farmer Mcskint wants not only a 4x4  but some 1x4 side boards I MODIFIED BY ADMIN KNOCK IT OFF you knot they are like this. and this cant you cut is now a perfectly square banana heres what to do turn it crown up against the raised back stops and clamp it medium firm now lower the stops and the clamp as well if need be  to pull it flat to the deck and take your side boards. this works well on resawing and sometimes even large cants will move on you and you need to force them flat before sawing boards off them if its a  decent cant and you caught this check it for square before proceeding in case you missed a move on another cut or in case its  twisted if so take a couple sacrificial slices to square it while forced flat.

I actually got frustrated enough that i made up end dogs i could hold the ends down with  

Offline keyote

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Re: Useful sawmill mods wireless hydraulics
« Reply #1342 on: June 02, 2018, 07:34:37 PM »
once you have hydraulics free of head location by various methods you want to be able to not have to walk back to the levers sometimes you could rig up redundant controllers for all or just certain crucial functions like say being able to  move the  stops and clamp while  flipping and sorting edgings or maybe you have set yourself up with a mod that is hydraulically controlled like a deck or board flipper that plug into the saws system but must head back to the levers. especially  guys that are  head wireless and are moving around a bit the company above is just the first  thing i found yesterday when i realized once i had a hydraulic bed extension and wireless head rig i was going to be really annoyed not having my hydraulics as mobile as all my other controls.

which  reminds me. can anyone explain why i would not prefer the wireless head control to a command control or even a 70 wireless comand control. It seems to me if all my  head rig controls are in the remote then when i am standing at the hydraulic controls i have effectively  the exact same capability of a command control   1500 cheaper, but i also have the added advantage of being able to move around and still control all the head rig  controls. why on earth would i prefer the com control to that.
I can see maybe there's an argument for the 70s wireless command control because you can at least  take the hydraulic controls as well  to a stationary location you prefer for some reason. But even so I would bet that is always going to be the other end of the mill and so what would it take to move the hydraulics to the end of the mill and use the wireless from anywhere, and furthermore if you have the money for that set up would you prefer to be totally wireless instead and probably a lot cheaper than a 70 at that.

Offline DR_Buck

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1343 on: June 02, 2018, 09:15:07 PM »
Heres a minor mod that turns out to be a significant re enforcement of the board return arm for the LT40 type mills.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)


Just finished painting it. will get a pretty photo up when it dry.
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)


This looks better!
I see what you've done, but for the life of me I can't figure why it needs reinforcing.   You're dragging back boards not cants or logs.    I've pulled back some pretty hefty stuff, especially thick slabs and have never had a problem with the return. 
Hidden Acres Farm
Been there, done that.   Never got caught

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Lucas Dedicated 60" Slabber

Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1344 on: June 03, 2018, 06:47:30 AM »
Not picking the head up enuff to clear the cant will bend the arm, Ask 4x4 about it. :D :D :D :D :D
I have 5000 hrs on mine never a problem. ;D

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1345 on: June 06, 2018, 10:30:16 PM »
SHHHHHH Peter! Don't tell every body!

Once it bent you gota fix it. eve if you have LEARNED not to do it again!
 
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. 2018 F150
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logrite 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Offline nomad

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1346 on: July 08, 2018, 05:50:00 AM »
   Not much of a "mod," but a quick fix I like better than the original.
     A while back my lube tank self-destructed from the sun.  On Saturday afternoon.  With a large SYP job coming up starting on Tuesday.  No lube was not going to be an option.
     I did some looking and found this available at a local sporting goods store.



 

     It's 7 gallon instead of 5, so it's a bit wider and taller.  Needed a " spacer under it.  The cap is tapped for a spigot with the same thread pitch as a " hose bib, so with some effort the bib screwed in with no tools.  The lube hose needed no mods.  The original bungee straps are stretched to the limit, but still work.  No interference with the mast when raised.  You can still see through it to see the liquid level.  And now, when it needs filling, it takes a full 5 gallons.  Been using it for a couple of weeks now and it works like a charm!
     Made by Reliance and called an "Aqua-Tainer."




Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
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Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1347 on: July 09, 2018, 12:10:56 PM »
I used one of those for awhile too and they do work quite well but I found the filling and lifting the jug off and on to be a bit cumber some with a shoulder that don't quite work like it used to. My mod for the tank is back a ways (reply#957) in this thread and i now use a 12 volt RV water pump to fill the tank.
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. 2018 F150
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logrite 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Offline Just Right

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1348 on: July 09, 2018, 12:32:04 PM »
And it is a bit cheaper than one from Woodmizer.  I like it!
If you are enjoying what you are doing,  is it still work?

Offline bwstout

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1349 on: August 05, 2018, 05:07:25 PM »
i found this mod in a different thread and have bought everything according to the recommendation to  but after following the schematic i only have forward and no reverse could anyone help. I don't see well and cant tell if it is a 5 or 8 is used on the relays. here is a pic of the controller and relays with a drum switch. 



 
home built mill

Offline bwstout

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1350 on: August 05, 2018, 07:06:14 PM »
i found this mod in a different thread and have bought everything according to the recommendation to  but after following the schematic i only have forward and no reverse could anyone help. I don't see well and cant tell if it is a 5 or 8 is used on the relays. here is a pic of the controller and relays with a drum switch.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

go it figured out
home built mill


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