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Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods  (Read 305092 times)

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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1460 on: May 26, 2019, 12:26:21 AM »
Never.  Havenít for going in a little more than three years, even with whitewood and other sticker stain prone species.  As a matter of fact, the deadstacked 9/4 boards in the picture is a very sticker stain prone wood, basswood.

I will raise some eyebrows with my strategy and technique, but it works, and has little or no degrade, or I couldnít sell the high grade lumber.  

Itís very unconventional, though.  

I estimate that stickering by one person takes as much as much as 50% time as sawing with 4/4 and maybe 100% as much time as sawing with 8/4 and 12/4.  So I can sometimes double my sawing production, when sawing alone, which I do most of the time, by deadstacking, and keeping the blade turning.    

So I separate the jobs to be more efficient.  

Since we have about 20 different species of wood in stock, I pick and choose when I mill what.  So Monday through Wednesday I cut and deadstack more sticker stain resistant wood, such a cherry, walnut, oak, sassafras, etc, either in 4/4 and 9/4.  Then Thursday and Friday I get into the more sticker stain wood like maple, poplar, and even basswood.  All are deadstacked off the mill onto pallets and placed under a covered shed.  Then on Saturday, our main open sales day, I bring in three part time employees, including Martha, two of which run the cash registers, and one who I pay as a dedicated lumber stacker.  His only job is to sticker all the lumber I milled during the week and unsticker what comes out of the kilns.  So, I outsource my lumber sticking just as I outsource my planing and get it all done in one day.  The third employee and I both float, so if the stacker needs help I will help with the customers and they will double up with him.  Or I will give him a hand if we are not too busy.  So at any one time on Saturday we may have 1 to 3 people sticking and deadstackimg the weekís wood, or have 1 to 3 people on the sales floor, helping customers or cashing them out.  

So in a single shift, one day a week, we as a team may be able process up to 12 pallets of wood, both kiln dried and green in addition to handling the sales of up to 150 customers.  Our dedicated stacker guy gets about 15 cents per bdft and most days earns a very decent paycheck.  I simply consider it the cost of doing business, same as paying 15 cents per bdft to outsource my planing and having to pay for an extra cashier.  I wouldn't need the extra help if I wasn't selling the lumber, so its not a bad thing.  



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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1461 on: May 26, 2019, 07:45:05 AM »
He gets about 15 cents per MBF


Just what kind of dirt do you have on that poor lad to get him to work for that? :D
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1462 on: May 26, 2019, 07:51:34 AM »
Oops, I corrected it.  About 15 cents per bdft.  
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1463 on: May 26, 2019, 07:58:15 AM »
Shucks - I was hoping he had a brother that needed steady work.   ;D
Franklin buncher and skidder
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1464 on: May 26, 2019, 03:20:51 PM »
After this weekend, I hope he comes back.  95 degrees, no wind, brutal conditions.  
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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1465 on: June 10, 2019, 07:36:04 PM »
   For those of you who have a nice WM Vinyl cover, or equivalent, for your mill and have developed a hole or two and need to patch it I have found a handy fix is to buy a can of silicon spray from your local Auto Parts place (I got mine from Advance Auto), take an old pair of blue jeans or equivalent and cut out a couple of patches slightly larger than the size of the hole(s) and spray both sides of the patch, let it dry, then liberally apply a good coat of silicon glue (also readily available at the auto parts store) on the first patch and place it over the hole then do the same with the second patch and place it on the other side of the cover and press them together tightly trying to make sure to ensure the edges are glued well and let it dry. This gives you a flexible, waterproof, relatively inexpensive and heavy duty patch.

This is a picture of the can of silicon spray I used.

 As a side note it is probably better if you remove your vinyl cover from your mill before cranking it even if you only plan to run it a minute or so. If you do that you may never have to make and use one of these type patches but I digress.... ???
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Just Right

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1466 on: June 11, 2019, 10:41:14 AM »
LMAO.  I will remember that!  Well mine was on the ground long enough the squirrels found it!  Bunch of lil holes. . . . .roll of Gorilla tape and the wife . . . . .she fixed it up both inside and out made a good patch!
If you are enjoying what you are doing,  is it still work?

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1467 on: June 11, 2019, 10:57:34 AM »
   That may work well for small holes but when they are much wider than the tape  it does not hold up so well - at least it did not for me. I had a couple about 5-6 inches wide/diameter so had to find an alternative.
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1468 on: June 11, 2019, 01:09:16 PM »
I hear ya.  So how long does it take to burn a hole in that type of cover?
If you are enjoying what you are doing,  is it still work?

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1469 on: June 11, 2019, 09:55:29 PM »
   Mind you I can neither confirm or deny that I have ever committed such and act :D but I have it on very good authority it only takes a minute or so for the exhaust to get hot enough to burn right through the vinyl cover. ;)
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline caveman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1470 on: July 13, 2019, 09:31:09 PM »
When sawing live oak or heart longleaf pine we have found diesel fuel to perform best as a blade lube.  When sawing other logs we will use PineSol, laundry soap, cotton picker spindle lube or antifreeze.  We were putting diesel in the lube tank when needed and then someone would need something sawn that did not require diesel and then the lube tank had to be emptied and refilled with something else.

Anyway, I had an OMC VRO tank lying around for decades since removing it from my boat.  I would prefer to mix the oil rather than rely on it.  It fit well on top of the mill's diesel tank and plumbed in easily to the lube line.  It does need a little finer adjustment than it currently has but today it worked well.  Even when sawing other species,

 

 

 using diesel on the last cut or two will ensure the blade is clean and will not easily rust.

The brass fittings were some I had saved after redoing the fuel supply on a 1979 Dusky center console that we used to have.
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1471 on: July 24, 2019, 11:32:48 PM »
Update on the two lube tank mod.  Today I sawed cypress and pine.  In the WM lube tank I had cotton picker spindle lube.  I was using it on the cypress, cedar and started sawing the pine with it.  When the blade began to get a little pitch, I switched over to the other lube tank which had diesel.  I sawed 15 or so logs into 1x's and had it set to a very slow drip.  The blade stayed clean and I got a lot of mileage out of the blade.  The diesel level in the tank did not noticeably drop.

I know some of you run diesel all of the time and some don't use it at all but I like having the option to use either tank depending on what we are sawing and it takes less than a second to change from one to the other.  This is simple and with all of the first generation OMC variable ratio outboards that were sold, these tanks should be readily available.  They already have a fuel line, bulb and they fit just right on top of the fuel tank.

We need to do the hydraulics anywhere mod.  
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1472 on: July 25, 2019, 10:12:40 PM »
Nice mod.  Diesel does a good job, but after awhile, all I can smell is diesel.  I tried yesterday, straight diesel in the lube tank, turn the Lubemizer to its lowest setting and by the afternoon, the whole place smelled like a truck stop.  

So I refilled the tank with the odorless Spundle Cleaner and water mix.  

Having a quick shot of diesel on demand like youíve got would be nice.
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1473 on: July 26, 2019, 08:49:10 AM »
Nice mod.  Diesel does a good job, but after awhile, all I can smell is diesel.  I tried yesterday, straight diesel in the lube tank, turn the Lubemizer to its lowest setting and by the afternoon, the whole place smelled like a truck stop.  

So I refilled the tank with the odorless Spundle Cleaner and water mix.  

Having a quick shot of diesel on demand like youíve got would be nice.
I still don't understand the need for diesel.   smiley_headscratch   I nearly 15 years I have never used diesel.  I mostly use Pinesol.   When a blade starts to gunk up and needs a little more cleaning I just engage the blade, turn the Lubmizer on full, and flip on the mill head control to forward with speed reduced to zero.  In 15 to 30 seconds the blade is completely clean.        
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1474 on: July 26, 2019, 10:03:06 AM »
I do the same as Dr Buck, with good results!
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1475 on: July 26, 2019, 01:09:53 PM »
 

 

 

 The top picture is a south Florida slash pine.  The bottom two are longleaf.  I was still getting a gummed up blade running the lube wide open with Pin-sol, laundry soap, cotton picker spindle lube and every other concoction I've read others have success with.  I would prefer not to use diesel but this morning we sawed a pretty good whack of longleaf heartwood and ended up with clean blades and straight boards, using the diesel drip.
 

 
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1476 on: July 26, 2019, 01:18:56 PM »
You can keep the slash but send that LL Pine up to VA would you 8)
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1477 on: July 26, 2019, 02:01:07 PM »
Do not need a lot of diesel but when I do this handy lawnmower tank works great.

 
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1478 on: July 26, 2019, 02:05:55 PM »
Also ran separate little line with control valve,

 
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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1479 on: July 26, 2019, 03:16:43 PM »
I just hate filling the lube tank everyday, I'm always looking for a way to "take steps to save steps".  When I've used diesel in the past on my LT40, the tank lasted for several days, sometimes a week.  On the LT70 I just can't turn the LubeMizer down enough and it sprays too much per pulse anyway.  So it aerosolizes the diesel and stinks everything up.   

Cotton Picker Spindle cleaner mixed with water is the only thing I've found to be almost, but not quite as good as straight diesel.  I've tried Pine Sol, Murphys Soap, Dawn, Purple Cleaner, pretty much everything else, including the Woodmizer Lube, but the problem is that by the time I concoct a witches brew that cleans as well, or nearly as well, at the spindle cleaner or diesel, it costs more than either so why not just use what works best and is less expensive?  I've also contacted "Lubie Lube" several years ago, who manufactures the Woodmizer lube and talked their engineers, they have (did have) 8 different saw blade lubes for different purposes, and I bought some of their water emulsion oil based lubes designed for hickory and it worked better, also, but it was more expensive than with spindle cleaner or diesel.  

I like Spindle Cleaner (an oil based water emulsion) and/or Diesel because not only do they clean better than anything I've used, with a lower daily consumption rate, they both leave a protective oil film on the band and prevents rust, so makes resharpening much easier.  Also, I've had a noticeably longer life from my "sealed" bearings in my bandwheel guides when I'm using some sort of oil based lube, which also reduces the surface wear, the taper, on the rollers due to many things, including blade camber.  I also get noticeable less audible "scrubbing" wear on my roller guide shoulders, and the only time I've cut fatal notches in the shoulders of the roller guides is when feeding fast, using high force, using a non oil based lube.

So the oil seems to be of benefit in several ways, not necessarily in blade cleaning, just being an oil in general applied to moving parts of a machine, rather than a constant exposure to detergent and water.

Other folks may have different reasons, but these are mine. 
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