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Anyone using a Norwood Dremel Type blade sharpener

Started by Jjoness4, December 27, 2014, 10:35:43 PM

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Jjoness4

I am new to milling.  I have a Norwood MX-34 mill purchased used last year.  Having trouble getting blades sharpened.  My brother gave me a Norwood sharpener and setter.  I am having trouble using it.  Norwood has tried to help but I have not been successful in using it.  Any advice from someone who has this very basic sharpener.  Maybe the problem is that it is too basic!  All advice appreciated.
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

Magicman

No help with the sharpener, but Welcome to the Forestry Forum.   8)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Jjoness4

Thanks Magicman.  What a wealth of information is available on the forum. 
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

Jjoness4

Not only am I new to milling but I am just learning the forum site protocol and tricks.  I found several 10 year old posts on the subject that were moderately helpful.
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

bandmiller2

Welcome JJ, what problems are you having with the sharpener.?? It looks to be a fairly simple sharpener. As with all sharpeners you need to backoff the adjustments so the stone is not cutting and then adjust a little at a time the feed and the depth until you are taking a light cut on the tooth face gullet and up the back of the next tooth. The band support arms are important as they keep the band from rocking as you advance it. Did you ask Norwood if they have a video of its use.?? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

hamish

I have been using mine weekly for the past four years.  What issue are you having with it?
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

Jjoness4

I creep up on the adjustments as suggested but after a few teeth are sharpened the index pin will fail to clear the next tooth.  Basically settings apparently change.  There is a very brief Norwood video but it is not helpful to deal with my problem.  The Norwood procedure calls for sharpening in two steps, the face and first part of the gullet then the back of the tooth and tip.  Is this the procedure you use?  The sharpener was not well cared for and was in pretty bad shape when I got it (rust, dirt primarily).  Could it be that it is just too worn out and "sloppy" to work properly.  The issue on blade supports-- how critical is it that they are dead level?  What are the critical tolerances on the machine?  Thanks for your help on this.
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

papow22

May I ask a Question?,What kind of a Band mill do you have?For I was wondering cause I never seen you mention what type of a mill you got. ;)
Lives to do sawdust,run a trapline,hunt big game,live life to it's most.Got 4 mills a circle mill,(2 band sawmills) Norwood's 2000, Trim Saw,Beam Machine (chainsaw mill).

papow22

Sorry forgot to mention I own & operate a Norwood LM2000.Great little mill,but now I'm working at getting a sharpener / setter for the mill.
Lives to do sawdust,run a trapline,hunt big game,live life to it's most.Got 4 mills a circle mill,(2 band sawmills) Norwood's 2000, Trim Saw,Beam Machine (chainsaw mill).

Jjoness4

Hello PP22
I purchased a  used 2011 Norwood MX-34 with a 16 HP Briggs engine.  I really have enjoyed using it.  I  sawed out all the lumber for a 24 ft by 48 ft shed this past year.  I will keep you up to date on the Norwood sharpener/setter learning curve.  I am not going to give up on it yet.
Happy New Year
B. Jones   :)
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

hamish

Quote from: Jjoness4 on December 28, 2014, 10:47:27 PM
I creep up on the adjustments as suggested but after a few teeth are sharpened the index pin will fail to clear the next tooth.  Basically settings apparently change.  There is a very brief Norwood video but it is not helpful to deal with my problem.  The Norwood procedure calls for sharpening in two steps, the face and first part of the gullet then the back of the tooth and tip.  Is this the procedure you use?  The sharpener was not well cared for and was in pretty bad shape when I got it (rust, dirt primarily).  Could it be that it is just too worn out and "sloppy" to work properly.  The issue on blade supports-- how critical is it that they are dead level?  What are the critical tolerances on the machine?  Thanks for your help on this.

First and foremost is the sharpener wasn't well cared for its going to need some cleaning up in order to get things working.  Most of the pivot points are Teflon sleeved, but the shouldered screws still rust and create drag.  Easiest to strip it down one piece at a time and clean everything up.  You indexer is just binding up as it goes about its travels.  The blade supports work fine when eyeballed somewhat level.

Do you have a manual for the sharpener?

When I sharpen I usually break it down into 3 steps, first the tooth, then the gullet, then the backside of the tooth.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

bushhog920

I have one that came with my used norwood mark 2 mill. they make a good mill but the sharpener is a joke don't waste your time. I got tired of cranking on it for an hour per blade and got a cooks cat claw, wow what a difference. spent almost as much on it as the mill but worth it. sharp blades are always about 15 min away. one problem with it is that it advances on the tooth before the one getting sharpened so the depth of the grind is always changing. cooks advances on the same tooth it grinds so imperfections in tooth spacing and weld joint do not effect the grind. love my cooks built like a tank.

Jjoness4

Thanks BH920
I have viewed the Cook's videos.  The cost does not match my hobby level sawing.  I am a born cheap skate but sharp blades are critical and if my sawing advances to the next level I may be looking.  In the mean time the engineer in me wants to make the Dremel tool work somehow.
Hamish has had success with the tool and I am going to pick his brain some more if he is willing.
Thanks for you advice.
JJones
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

Jjoness4

Hamish
To answer your questions, I have done some clean up on the tool.  The little 1/8" roll pin that indexes the tooth was worn out (looks like it had been modified i.e. ground to a point ???)  so I replaced it and did a general dismantle and clean.  I have a pdf copy of a manual but I am not sure it is a complete manual.  Do you have a picture of your machine so I can be sure we are talking apples to apples.
Thanks for hanging with me on this.
jjones
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

coastlogger

I have used one for years,most of them after a major modification.I too purchased mine used and went thru a lot of grief getting things working properly.
Things I learned that may help you:
1.Dremel make a bit that works imo more cost effectively than the Norwood bit. It is a --15(cannot recall the first 2 digits. Its a light brown colour)
2.Mine had wear problems that werent obvious. Namely the shaft that the cam and hand crank attached to was badly worn. This completely wrecks the tooth profile. I got a rebuild kit from Norwood,very reasonable as I recall,that helped greatly.
3.I made a heavier pawl to facilitate it falling into place after each tooth.
4. Most important,I turfed the Dremel and mounted a Harber Freight grinder in its place. This made an unbelievable difference. I was suddenly getting razor sharp blades every time,better cutting speeds etc etc.In fact it ground as well as the Dinasaw sharpener I now have,difference being I had to hand crank it which I decided Id had enough of after several years
There are a few pics of the modified sharpener in my gallery I blv.(Its also for sale)
I know several people that have the Norwood dremel grinder,they dont use them much and some not at all. I personally think it wont take enough off to do a decent grind.
clgr

Jjoness4

Thanks CL for your helpful comments.  I will look in your gallery for the pics.  I believe the Dremel in so underpowered that the RPMs are on average too low.  The HF mod has been suggested by others as well.  When you say that you made a heavier pawl, what did not involve.

Again thanks and Happy New Year.
B. Jones
2017 LT40HDD35 , Kubota 4701, Ford 3000, Stihl Farmboss

Ironwood

I have used my NW grinder a lot, what you need to understand is as you stated a cheap alt to spending BIG $ on a full blown unit. I count on two or three touch ups on my blades before sending them to a friend for.a SERIUOS grind on his big dollar Woodmiser grinder. I have noticed some of my pins a worn and need replaced as well. Get the better grind disc NW sells or track down the aftermarket one the previous poster talked about.
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

coastlogger

The heavier pawl or indexer was just made out of a wider piece of scrap steel. I used an old drill bit shank for the tooth pusher in place of I blv a roll pin. You could achieve the same thing as making a new one by welding or bolting a piece of keystock etc to the side of the existing pawl/indexer.Taking the thing off,cleaning up the innards and lubing with wd40 also helps of course. The plastic bushings take a bit of a beating which doesnt help either. New ones come in rebuild kit.
clgr

PC-Urban-Sawyer

@Ironwood,

Good to see you on the Forum again.  Seems like it's been a long time...

Herb

Ironwood

PC,

Thanks, my heart is still here, my mind is on many many other things (economics, farming, food security, family, and a few guns) ;)

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

papow22

Quote from: bushhog920 on December 29, 2014, 10:52:54 PM
I have one that came with my used norwood mark 2 mill. they make a good mill but the sharpener is a joke don't waste your time. I got tired of cranking on it for an hour per blade

I seen on Norwood's forum one guy there put a 18 v  dewalt drill to power instead of hand cranking.it seem to work just fine.
Lives to do sawdust,run a trapline,hunt big game,live life to it's most.Got 4 mills a circle mill,(2 band sawmills) Norwood's 2000, Trim Saw,Beam Machine (chainsaw mill).

robomower

Hi Jjoness4;
I am responding to a 3 year old post and expect you have probably solved or deserted your quest to solve your issue. However, in case you or anyone else with this dremel sharpener is still struggling with it, the answer is simple. The solution is confounding to me, but for whatever reason, it solves the problem. After that, who cares?
At some point in it's life, the tooth position adjustment screw was unwound too far and came away from the tooth position tie rod. The spring (item 37) fell out and the screw came off and the tie rod fell down. Who remembers if the spring was after the tie rod or after the tooth position block before it all came apart? The answer is it MUST be next to the tie rod, not the tooth position block. (See attached diagram with circled spring) As soon as I switched the spring position all the problems went away. Tom at the Canadian office for Norwood Industries put me on to the solution after I had suffered 3 months with the issue and many many thanks to him.

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

LAZERDAN


robomower

Thanks very much laserdan.
Got it in as an attachment. Upload didn't like jpg but ok with doc file.

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