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Cutting siding with a cooks MP-32

Started by Robert Owens, May 03, 2015, 09:45:37 PM

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Robert Owens

I am trying to figure out how to cut beveled siding on my Cooks MP-32. My father in law and I first thought about using pillow blocks mounted under the cross members with a steel rod and cams to raise the cant the same each time, alternating every other cut, but there is not room due to the squaring arms tied together under the frame. How do other brands of sawmills cut beveled siding? Is it an attachment or do you create a jig to hold the cant? Maybe I could make a jig to sit the cant on and angle it every other cut. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.

pineywoods

Real easy on any bandmill. Saw out a cant. raise one edge and insert a shim (I use a small scrap of 3/8 plywood between a bunk and edge of the cant. Lower cant on to shim, lower  head 3/8 and cut a board off the top of the cant. Remove shim, lower head 1 inch, cut another board. Repeat
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

BCsaw

Piney, how thick is the siding at both the edges? 5/8 and 1"?
Inspiration is the ability to "feel" what thousands of others can't!
Homebuilt Band Sawmill, Kioti 2510 Loader Backhoe

Robert Owens

Thanks pineywoods, I have plastic wedges that would be consistent. I was just trying to figure out a way that I could use one handle(metal arm) to control it in order to save time.

pineywoods

Quote from: BCsaw on May 04, 2015, 10:29:27 AM
Piney, how thick is the siding at both the edges? 5/8 and 1"?

depends on the thickness of the shim aand how much you lower the head. Course, I kinda cheat, I have hydraulics to raise and lower the cant  ;D
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

kelLOGg

I have a potential customer that wants beveled siding so I am resurrecting this thread. He wants it about 7" wide and tapered to 1/8 to 1/4". I think that is too thin. If he really wants it that thin should I recommend that we cut it from a dried 2 x 7 or cut it green from a cant? If I cut it from a cant what about stickering a beveled piece? If he puts it up green won't it dry too fast and crack? Sounds problematic.

Bob 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

WDH

I would not do it if I had to cut to an edge only 1/8 to 1/4" thick.  Not worth the pain and suffering when the boards split and curl.  It will be your fault somehow. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

SPD748

Quote from: WDH on January 26, 2017, 07:49:40 AM
I would not do it if I had to cut to an edge only 1/8 to 1/4" thick.  Not worth the pain and suffering when the boards split and curl.  It will be your fault somehow.

I second that motion. After issuing the standard warning, I cut some boards to 3/8" for a customer. Two weeks later he called and asked if I could cut some more because all the previous order curled badly. I asked if he was willing to pay for a repeat. He declined and ordered 1" boards to be planed to 3/8" after they dried.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
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Rougespear

Out of curiosity, what is the standard width and thickness of bevel siding?
Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

drobertson

It seems like my FIL did something similar with some one inch a sawed, if memory serves me he did a rabbit? Joint on one edge,side and proceeded with the siding, anyway thin will cup and curl,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Deese

I probably woudn't use wedges to lift the cant because of the risk of inconsistent thickness...Unless you marked them to know how far to insert them each time.
All you would need is something consistent in the thickness you desired, and be sure to place it on the outer edge of the cant (same spot) each time.
Am I missing something? I've thought about sawing and storing some...
Would you sticker and stack it the same as regular lumber?  I'm showing my ignorance here...
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Darrel

Quote from: Deese on January 26, 2017, 12:22:13 PM
Am I missing something? I've thought about sawing and storing some...
Would you sticker and stack it the same as regular lumber?  I'm showing my ignorance here...

I have a siding attachment that came with my used mill and I've used it once. When I stickered it I put two pieces of siding together so they were thin edge on top of thick edge. Combined thickness was about the same as 5/4. It did fine but the weather was cold and I only left it stacked that way for a couple of weeks 'till I was ready to nail it up.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

47sawdust

I have no experience sawing clapboards,but from experience resawn clapboards need to nailed up quick or banded together with plastic strapping.They also must be kept out of direct sun even when installing.I also space my nails no more than 9''-12'' apart.
Quarternsawn clapboards are best but beyond the capabilities of a bandmill.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Deese

Interesting. I was thinking of using them instead of B&B for my solar kiln build...
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

drobertson

It should be like any other application where an angle block is used,  once the cant size ( the board width) is established thee only issue left is ensuring the back stop remains constant and the wedge angle is consistent, it will raise the amount of thickness and hit a stop at the same point every time. A 90 degree angle plate or one of a predesiged angle,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

ozarkgem

I used ERC for my lap siding. I set the saw on 1/2" and sawed it flat. Let it dry for a while and put it up.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

paul case

Me too.

I used it as paneling the same way except on the inside.

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

boscojmb

Quote from: kelLOGg on January 26, 2017, 05:57:09 AM
I have a potential customer that wants beveled siding so I am resurrecting this thread. He wants it about 7" wide and tapered to 1/8 to 1/4". I think that is too thin. If he really wants it that thin should I recommend that we cut it from a dried 2 x 7 or cut it green from a cant? If I cut it from a cant what about stickering a beveled piece? If he puts it up green won't it dry too fast and crack? Sounds problematic.

Bob

I agree 1/8" to 1/4" sounds too thin.

About 6 weeks ago I cut several hundred Sq Ft of tapered siding for a customer. We spent an afternoon experimenting and found that 1/4" to 1/2" worked well and matched his existing box store siding.

He put the siding up the next day and after 6 weeks it still looks good.

Quote from: Rougespear on January 26, 2017, 10:12:45 AM
Out of curiosity, what is the standard width and thickness of bevel siding?

The box store siding that I matched was 5-1/2" wide and tapered from just under 1/2" to just under 1/4"


I hope this helps.
John B.

Log-Master LM4

kelLOGg

boscojmb,
If I make the thin edge 1/4 then then the customer's request is not too far off? His siding is 7" wide but I don't know what the reveal is.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

tacks Y

Mr Owens, Logmaster runs a 1/2" rod through the bunks with cams on them. Flip up the handle and they raise the cant on one side . I have never used one, see my new to me mill post.

boscojmb

Quote from: kelLOGg on January 27, 2017, 06:38:43 AM
boscojmb,
If I make the thin edge 1/4 then then the customer's request is not too far off? His siding is 7" wide but I don't know what the reveal is.
Bob

He is not too far off but I would not go much thinner than 1/4 to 1/2.

The siding that I made was installed with a 4" reveal so the 1/4" part is hidden and the part that shows tapers from just under 3/8" to 1/2".

The math for 1/4 to 1/2 is easy to remember as well. Lift the cant 1/4" drop the blade 3/8", then drop the cant back down and and drop the blade 5/8. Every other cut you land on an even inch.

John B
John B.

Log-Master LM4

boscojmb

Here it is installed on the customers barn.







John B.

Log-Master LM4

Mountain State Farm

I made a jig to lay on the deck. I was in no hurry so first I cut my siding boards to 12' x 7" x 7/8". Air dried a few months with plenty of stickers and weight. To make the jig, I trimmed down a 2" x 8" into 2" x 7" x 12'. Next I attached a 12' thin strip down the bed side edge, I believe it was about 5/8".  This tilted my 2x7 so that I was nearly sawing corner to corner. Enter on the lower edge and exit on the upper edge. I then attached a 1/2 " strip down the outer side of the 2x7 to kind of hold the siding board in place. Clamped the jig, set the height and made two claps from one board. I can't take credit for the design, I learned it here on FF.  This method was a little labor intensive but every piece was the same and no math or up and down movement for each cut.  By allowing the boards to air dry for a few months, I could cull any boards that showed signs of warp or twist  My reveal was 5" so I had plenty to work with. Sided the entire house and the poor jig is in the rafters of the saw shed.   
That sawdust bug bit me in the ...

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