Green spruce for a "D" log cabin

[Thefarmer76]

Good day to all, what a wonderful site with like minded people all shareing their ideas.  Although I am new to log construction and sawing I am eager to learn.  I am one click away from ordering a HM126 mill after using a friends, I have a horse farm and have a million uses for lumber.  On my acreage I have lots of cedar and a one acre old spruce grove ( that was planted too close together and needs thinned).  So my idea was to use some of the spruce trees to make a "D" style cabin......Is it possible to down the trees one day and saw and use the next week for construction ?  I did so with standing dead trees this winter prior, sawn into 6x8x12' posts and have seen no issues after the summer.  Thanks for any insight you may have, I just can't wait to get milling ! ;D

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Thefarmer76.  Add your location to your profile so that questions, etc. can be easily answered.

[pineywoods]

Farmer, I did just that using fresh sawn pine logs. Worked ok except for one problem. When they dried, the logs shrank a bit, but the window and door frames (made from dry lumber) didn't shrink. I routed a 1/2 by 1 inch groove in the top and bottom sides of the logs and put a 1X1 spline in there. Made for a wall almost airtight with no chinking required. That cabin was used for a bunkhouse at a hunting camp, it burned to the ground a while back. I'm thinking about building another, if I do, I'll post pics..If you can do a forum search, search for "pine log cabin" by pineywoods. Lots of pics and descriptions..

[Thefarmer76]

Thanks guys ! , I will contiue my research here and update my profile as I go....

[beenthere]

Is there a place local that you can take some spruce tree-lengths for sawing into D logs?

Take several, enough to decide that they are what you expect, that they are not too pitchy, and that they stay straight enough for building.  Maybe put up a short wall with the construction you plan to use.

If negative results, may alter your desire to buy your own mill. If positive, you are set to move ahead. 

[BCsaw]

Heck ya!

I say all the better to get it together quickly, especially if you are using some type of joinery like 1/2 dovetail notch. There will be some movement after it is up, but that is to be expected.

What is your plan for sealing gaps? Chinking? Do you plan to use threaded rod in the walls? These things can greatly enhance your build.

Good luck and keep us posted. ;D

[Thefarmer76]

There is a TV series "Mountian Men" snd the one trapper that flys a plane is building just the thing I am after.  Its too bad a person couldnt just buy the footage of his build for tips ! He just used a chainsaw mill, and was alone for his build.  I will upgrade to a bandsaw mill I think.......

[Fundyheather]

I successfully used red spruce 5x5's most of them green off the mill, spiked down over foam sill gasket using a corner joint you see in Russia, and have had way less shrinkage than expected and no twisting, almost no checking.  Maybe this was because all my trees were tall and small and therefore pith centered so the sapwood was mostly gone; someone else probably knows better.  I'm trying the same thing in 'D' logs next to see what happens.  If you do it green with spikes, set the spike heads down into the log with something, I found a ball peen hammer works good.  The other suggestion to use threaded rod is probably better, depending on what your building is intended for.
best luck
jim
 

[Stephen1]

Welcome neighbor!
I see no problem building with green logs. the walls will shrink, approx. 3\4'' per ft of wall height.  We have a gentleman on here who sells a dovetail jig for corners. 

[isawlogs]

 As long as you leave enough space above the doors and widows for the logs to shrink, add ¾" per foot of log height of shrinking above the doors.. if door has a 7 foot opening cut 7 ½ foot of opening to alow shrinking of logs, windows the same, if window is 36" cut the opening 38¼" in height . Cut a slot in the end of the logs deep enought o slide a 2x3 on edge into, and screw the door frame to that , do the same to the windows, the logs will slide down the 2x3 as they shrink. Also. do not nail or screw your stairs to the second floor, as it will be coming down  ;)

[kantuckid]

From experience I do agree with comments of recent. I'll add this on using 12" spikes in a stack log wall- pilot drill the spikes with a long auger that gives a tight fit but goes an inch or so beyond the spike length. This allows the wall to settle w/o the spikes point holding things up. You spike each 2' and a foot from openings or logs butt splices.
There's no problem using the green logs the OP mentions if proper building procedures are followed. Do consider how the logs are sealed to each other. I used gaskets on my home-Norton Log Home foam-google will get you there. Others use splines or combo of both.
I see no need for a threaded rod unless used as a part of an engineered system.
The picture of the tenon corner could be easily done with a butt & pass using a plywood "insert" in each corner as a draft stop and to hold the corners. Same for log butt splices-insert a plywood square that fits into each logs end a bit & caulk/foam strips.