The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.




Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

FARMA


Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Nyle Kiln Dry Systems




Author Topic: 2008 e classic 2300  (Read 2928 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline dkfearon

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 14
    • Share Post
2008 e classic 2300
« on: September 23, 2015, 07:50:24 PM »
has anyone cut out the old air channels in there 2300 e classic and replaced them with the updated stainless removeable ones if so can you guide me through it  the directions that came with the kit don't say much and are not to helpful. Thanks any help would be welcomed

Offline doctorb

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 4255
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glyndon, MD
  • Gender: Male
  • Unofficial Team Physician
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2015, 09:06:05 PM »
 

  

 

We just did this last week.  I have a welder friend who did it for me.  You tend to err with the cuts to leave too much of the original air channel wall (with the air holes).  So you end up grinding down the excess.  He cut this with his torch.  I can't imagine doing this with a saw.  Would take forever.

Note the bolt head near the far end of the newly installed panel.  This screws in and "pushes" the panel toward the firebox.  Small tabs at both ends of the panel slip inside the air chamber to lock it in place.  Easily removed.

So the panel sits inside the old air channel and is held there by the ends of the new panel which sit inside the existing air channel wall at either end.  The bolts push the panel flush with the cut out you've made.  You can not see the tabs on the panels in the pictures, as they are tucked inside the channel.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline dkfearon

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 14
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2015, 05:28:49 AM »
thank you for your pictures and help

Offline Roger2561

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 459
  • Age: 58
  • Location: Enfield, NH
  • Gender: Male
  • Love the outdoors
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2015, 06:11:07 AM »
doctorb - Was there any welding to be done prior to placement of the new panel or was it as simple as cutting away the old welded in place panel but leaving enough of a lip to hold the new in place?  What material is the new panel made of?  Is there a possibility of seeing the clips which you said help hold the new panels in place, before they are put in place and after they are inside the air channel?  The welds on my E-Classic 1400 air channel are coming apart and I'd like to see if I can replicate the fix CB provided for you and see if it will work on the 1400.  Thanks for any information you can provide.  Roger   
Roger

Offline doctorb

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 4255
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glyndon, MD
  • Gender: Male
  • Unofficial Team Physician
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2015, 08:22:53 AM »
All good questions. 

No welding was done prior to the cutout.  Yes there is a bit of a lip left behind that the new panel contacts as it's pressed outward.  The shape of the new panels is rounded on the upper and lower edges, so this "fit" onto the back side of the "lip" thats left is not too important.  As the bolts are tightened the rounded edge of the panel contacts the edge of the cutout.  If you cutout too conservatively (not enough), then you can't get the new panel into the cutout space of the air channel, and you find yourself cutting or grinding away the excess left on the lip.  You'll do the second side better than the first!

"Clips" is not the right description.  The panels simply flatten and narrow at both ends, like a tab.  (Think about the top of a cereal box and how it recloses once you've opened it.)  These tabs are about an 1.5 inches long and narrow to be about 1" in width at the end.  They simply become the major contact of the panel to the inside of the air chamber.  If I think of it, I can remove one of mine (It's very easy) and take a pic.  It is the contact made by these tabs, and not the contact of the panel with the inside of the cutout lip, that holds the panel in place.

The panels are made of Stainless Steel.  They are fairly light and flexible, compared to the steel used to manufacture the furnace.

I think everybody with these furnaces has cracks appear in the "face" of the air chambers.  There's simply too much of a temp gradient there with the cool air being blown in and the very hot fire on the other side.  Those cracks don't bother me and, if I had not had an airflow problem, I wouldn't have done this refitting.  I did it to make sure my air channels were clear to give even air flow to both sides of my 2300.







My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline Roger2561

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 459
  • Age: 58
  • Location: Enfield, NH
  • Gender: Male
  • Love the outdoors
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2015, 07:43:44 PM »
doctorb - Thank you very much.  That's very useful information.  I look forward to the pictures, although your description painted a nice image in my mind of what they should look like.  I have a plasma cutter that will cut through the mild steel like a hot knife through butter.  So the cutting part doesn't bother me too much to remove the old air channel.  My late dad's milling machine will drill and tap the holes for the bolts.  To protect from corrosion, I would guess the bolts are stainless steel too.  Again the milling machine will handle drilling the air holes too.  Thanks again for answering all of my questions.  Roger       
Roger

Offline doctorb

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 4255
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glyndon, MD
  • Gender: Male
  • Unofficial Team Physician
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2015, 09:51:35 AM »
Roger-

There is no tap and drill  for this exercise.  The panel is NOT bolted INTO your stove.  This panel stays in place because of a press fit mechanism, which also makes them easy to remove. 

The bolt holes are threaded and part of the panel ONLY.  As you insert (tighten) the bolts into the panel, the length of bolt sticking out the other side and across your original air channel gets longer and longer.  The tip of the bolt merely contacts the inside surface of the air channel and, as you further tighten the bolt, has the effect of pushing the panel away.  The reason the panel doesn't continue to be pushed out into the firebox is 1) the tabs at each end of the panel and 2) the small lip left at the site of your cutout. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline Logging logginglogging

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 561
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2015, 09:16:49 AM »
How much was this kit and what was the part number?
Thanks

Offline Logging logginglogging

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 561
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2015, 10:56:42 AM »
You know I just thought with that kit I wouldn't be able to put a grill great in there on nice days with the door open and cook steaks any more....

Offline Logging logginglogging

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 561
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2015, 11:18:49 AM »
is this part number   p/n 2500136  ?

Online JJ

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 337
  • Age: 50
  • Location: Londonderry NH
  • Gender: Male
  • Gotta figure this out
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2015, 05:00:22 PM »
I would not eat anything out of my e classic.
It really stinks from all the creosote.

        JJ

Offline doctorb

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 4255
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glyndon, MD
  • Gender: Male
  • Unofficial Team Physician
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2015, 05:19:05 PM »
yes p/n 2500136  I can not remember the exact cost.  My recollection is in the $50 - $60 range.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline Logging logginglogging

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 561
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2015, 03:21:45 PM »
Thank you!!

Offline Logging logginglogging

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 561
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2015, 03:22:45 PM »
I would not eat anything out of my e classic.
It really stinks from all the creosote.

        JJ

Mine runs nice and clean and I have nice hardwood coals... much safer and healthier than charcoal..

Offline doctorb

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 4255
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glyndon, MD
  • Gender: Male
  • Unofficial Team Physician
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2015, 12:05:20 PM »
Sorry about the delayed update and info....

Here's a pic of the cut-out before inserting the new side panel.



 

Here are some pics of the panel itself prior to insertion.  Note the tab on the end that fits inside the cutout.  The bolt is threaded through the panel, not into your stove.


 

 

 

 

 

 

And, again, with the panel inserted.  Hope that helps.

 

 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline Roger2561

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 459
  • Age: 58
  • Location: Enfield, NH
  • Gender: Male
  • Love the outdoors
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #15 on: October 24, 2015, 07:32:56 PM »
doctorb - Thank you very much for posting the pic of the panel away from the channel.  I can see that it will be very easy to replicate something for my E-Classic 1400.  Unfortunately it will have wait until next year due to firing up the OWB early last week.  I'll have all winter long to replicate something for the 1400.  Thanks again.  Roger   
Roger

Offline garret

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 69
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2015, 09:06:31 AM »
About 1 hr. with a drill press, tap, sawsall and a section of 2" channel.  Neatly cutting out the firebox w/o inflicting collateral damage or setting hair on fire seems the more difficult task.
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

Offline Roger2561

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 459
  • Age: 58
  • Location: Enfield, NH
  • Gender: Male
  • Love the outdoors
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2015, 01:01:34 PM »
My plasma cutter should rid the firebox of the old air channel in my 1400 rather quickly.  My trouble is I don't have that steady of a hand.  I guess if I don't try to hurry the job I should be okay.  I'll take some time this winter to purchase the stainless steel and cut the parts I need.  The one thing I don't have is a metal brake(sp?) so bending the back of the piece is going to be a trick.  Roger     
Roger

Offline doctorb

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 4255
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glyndon, MD
  • Gender: Male
  • Unofficial Team Physician
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #18 on: October 26, 2015, 08:10:51 AM »
Roger-

The panels cost about $50-60.  Never been one to tell others how or when to spend their money, but with cutting and shaping and threading the bolt holes and having to do it for both the left and right sides of the stove, I'd suggest just purchasing these panels.  The real work is the cutout.  Once that's done it's easy.  Just my thoughts.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline charger arms

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 10
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2015, 09:14:26 PM »
Awesome. Thanks for the pics. I have the kit but the instructions were way too confusing for me to start cutting away any material.

I also have the new fusion chamber on the way. Is there any secret to getting out the old refractory panels in the bottom of the firebox? Or do I just hit them with a sledge until they break? I am expecting the instructions for this install to be as awesome as the air channel set.

I did manage to update the door. Its the little things.


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
2008 E-Classic 2300 Leaking

Started by stratford 50 on Firewood and Wood Heating

10 Replies
1980 Views
Last post December 17, 2015, 08:37:57 AM
by Logging logginglogging
xx
E-Classic 2300 (vintage 2008) Modification available

Started by WI Fire on Firewood and Wood Heating

26 Replies
5150 Views
Last post January 23, 2017, 02:25:04 PM
by upsnake
xx
E Classic 2300

Started by dkfearon on Firewood and Wood Heating

1 Replies
754 Views
Last post September 10, 2011, 08:42:46 AM
by doctorb
xx
e classic 2300

Started by Tim Crowley on Firewood and Wood Heating

5 Replies
1955 Views
Last post July 02, 2009, 08:19:09 AM
by yellowzo6
 


Powered by EzPortal