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Author Topic: New Guy with my Sawmill Build  (Read 8857 times)

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Offline Jimmysmill13

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New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« on: December 16, 2015, 06:08:33 PM »
This is a saw mill I have been building over last couple months. I would like to see what you guys think and if you have any good or bad point on the mill. I still need to attach the motor and add some blade/wheel guards. 


































Offline Magicman

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2015, 06:12:32 PM »
Hello Jimmysmill13, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  Adding your location to your profile will help with questions.

Pictures must be loaded into your gallery and posted to your reply from there.  Review the Picture Posting thread at the bottom of the home page.
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2015, 06:27:26 PM »
I'm sure everyone would love to see pictures of your build.
I just this year made one my self.
So ask any questions.
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Offline Den-Den

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2015, 07:15:14 PM »
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2015, 07:29:12 PM »
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?


I am look at around 4000 to 5000fpm, I will have a 13hp engine.

I am not sure what the speed will be on the bearings at this point.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2015, 07:43:56 PM »
That is the way to do it.   8)

My question is also about the blade guides.  Maybe it is the picture angle, but be sure to give the blade teeth plenty of room in front of the guide rollers.  You want to avoid any chance of the teeth contacting the rollers and removing set.

Congrats on the pictures.   :)
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Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2015, 07:52:42 PM »
That is the way to do it.   8)

My question is also about the blade guides.  Maybe it is the picture angle, but be sure to give the blade teeth plenty of room in front of the guide rollers.  You want to avoid any chance of the teeth contacting the rollers and removing set.

Congrats on the pictures.   :)

Thanks Magicman, I see what you are saying about the blade guides, and I will have to make some adjustments and allow more space for the blade teeth.

Offline dustyhat

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2015, 09:31:57 PM »
Looks like your well on your way, the thing i will critic is the base where the track wheels are needs to be longer, motor weight ,wheel covers, and other weight, with the saw up high cutting a log it will probly be top heavy front to back. other than that it looks like a very good start.
Running a custom built stationary bandmill with a slightly modded four cyl jeep go devil engine.

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2015, 10:09:14 PM »
Looks like your well on your way, the thing i will critic is the base where the track wheels are needs to be longer, motor weight ,wheel covers, and other weight, with the saw up high cutting a log it will probly be top heavy front to back. other than that it looks like a very good start.

Thanks Dustyhat, I agree and I may end up having to adjust this. I have put close to 200lbs on the motor mount at it's highest point and believe it or not it's very stable. The reason for the shorter stance was to maximize the sawmill base as its only 13' long. If you take notice to the side wheels on the base rails this also was added to help control any instability witch has worked out nicely.

Offline dustyhat

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2015, 10:18:10 PM »
There was a guy on here that was having trouble with sawdust clogging up his acme thread, and causing it to bind up. cant remember what he did , but maby he build some kind of brushes to keep them cleaned out. you might want to think about that :)
Running a custom built stationary bandmill with a slightly modded four cyl jeep go devil engine.

Offline sawmilllawyer

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2015, 10:21:27 PM »
Sawmill build is looking good. Welcome to the forum.
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Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2015, 11:40:42 PM »
Jimmy,

You nailed the picture posting thing 8)  Really nice, clear pictures.  Having just completed my build, I see some things that may need attention:

Awesome track!  Your track looks like it is flat on top - you will need a scraper/brush to keep the sawdust from building up and causing you trouble.

You have a really nice T-handle that looks like you will be using it for your blade tension - NICE.  However, it is also on the side where you have the motor/drive belt.  You will want your drive belt to remain constant tension.  Maybe you will address this with a spring-loaded idler pulley?  Or, swap out the bolt you have on the idle side for a T-handle as well.

I made my own blade guides like yours.  The minute I added water-lube, the bearings ceased up.  I'm guessing water brought sawdust into them.  I ended up buying Cook's guides and they work great.

On your vertical guides, did you put some wear plates/Teflon in there?  Would probably help it move smoothly.

Do your guide bars stay in alignment with the blade (more important vertically, not so critical front to back)?    You want to be able to consistently cut square but if one side of the blade leads the other, that doesn't matter so much.  On your blade guide bars, you have hex bolts - consider either welding on a T handle or replace with handles you can work without tools like this:

  You want to keep the guides up to the wood and being able to do it without tool is much nicer.

As far as keeping your ACME threads free of sawdust, I would slip some PVC pipe over it.  Make the pieces just long enough that they fit when all the way up or down.  Hang the bottom one from the ACME nut.  The top one will just rest on the nut.  Hopefully, that will cover all the thread you will be actually using.

Keep in mind that you are going to want to operate your mill from the idle wheel side so you are not getting covered in sawdust!  Did you have to flip your blade (turn it inside out)?  Your rotation is opposite from most mills I've seen.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline redprospector

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2015, 12:03:38 AM »
Welcome to the forum Jimmysmill13!
I won't repeat what's been said. What I will say is, nice job. I like the way that you have your pillow blocks spread out. I got mine too close together, and have to replace shafts way more often than I'd like. I would recommend putting some split locking collars on the shafts to keep them from being able to move.
The only other concern I have would be for the carriage wheels. It looks to me like you used idler pulleys. I don't think they will hold up long. But I've been wrong before.  ;)
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #13 on: December 17, 2015, 12:10:51 AM »
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?


I am look at around 4000 to 5000fpm, I will have a 13hp engine.

I am not sure what the speed will be on the bearings at this point.
If the OD of the bearings is 1 1/2", and your blade is traveling at 5000 sfpm, your guides will be spinning at about 12,732 rpm. That's pretty dog gone quick.
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #14 on: December 17, 2015, 06:30:42 AM »
Wow... Looking good.
 I also think that you will need a spring-loaded idler pulley on your belts.
When sawing the belts will warm up and start to slip. I use a back idler
on my setup spring loaded and it really made a difference.
I also used Cooks bamdsaw guide wheels and they work great.
I also use the 13hp engine. Don't put to much set in your blades and
you will be good with that HP. I bet that like me you will be making a
bolt on extension soon.
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #15 on: December 17, 2015, 09:25:26 AM »
Jimmy, welcome to The Forestry Forum.
Great looking build so far. I will agree with ljohnsaw on your blade tensioner, but it wouldn't be a big deal to use the other wheel for your drive wheel and flip your blade inside out, from the looks of things.
Just a random question, did you already flip the blade inside out to make it saw the direction you are showing in the pics? I ask because both mills I've had they come to me with the teeth going the opposite of what you show. I don't know if it matters a bit, just curious.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #16 on: December 17, 2015, 09:35:51 AM »
Your mill looks nice and very rugged with many well-thought-out things on it.  Takes longer than you think, huh?  :)
The only thing that stands out to my eyes is your driven shaft, not the idle shaft.  The pulley to be driven by the engine is quite a ways away from the pillow block bearing.  I'm afraid you're going to have shaft breakage problems.  I'm thinking somehow the space between the pulley and the outboard pillow block needs to be smaller.  I would also recommend using red locktite on all the pillow block bearings.  Smear it all over the shaft and the set screws.  This will keep them from constantly loosening up.  This is for use with the cheap Chinese bearings.  The expensive US bearings probably won't have this problem.  Use heat to get the loctite to let loose for repairs if needed.  The guide bearings you're using are used by many mills.  They wear out pretty fast but are cheap and easy to replace as well.  Keep some gear oil in/on the ball bearings inside and they'll last a good long while.  Gear oil is a high pressure, high shear load oil with lots of sulfur in it (hence the smell) that uses that sulfur and a sacrificial wear surface that gets replenished using more oil on the next revolution (in an oil bath gearbox).  If you have any more questions, this is the best place to get them!  I'm not aware of any other place on the internet with a collection of so many smart, capable men from so many walks of life.  Collectively, we can do anything.
Nice looking homemade mill, buddy.  You have really nailed alot of the common problems with homemade jobbers.
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #17 on: December 17, 2015, 11:03:51 AM »
Jimmy, welcome to The Forestry Forum.
Great looking build so far. I will agree with ljohnsaw on your blade tensioner, but it wouldn't be a big deal to use the other wheel for your drive wheel and flip your blade inside out, from the looks of things.
Just a random question, did you already flip the blade inside out to make it saw the direction you are showing in the pics? I ask because both mills I've had they come to me with the teeth going the opposite of what you show. I don't know if it matters a bit, just curious.

It doesn't matter which way you run your blade (as long as the teeth are cutting ;)).  The important thing is that the drive wheel is PULLING the blade through the wood, not pushing it!  What you have should work just fine.  Your wood will just be left-handed :D
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #18 on: December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM »
Jimmy,

You nailed the picture posting thing 8)  Really nice, clear pictures.  Having just completed my build, I see some things that may need attention:

Awesome track!  Your track looks like it is flat on top - you will need a scraper/brush to keep the sawdust from building up and causing you trouble.

You have a really nice T-handle that looks like you will be using it for your blade tension - NICE.  However, it is also on the side where you have the motor/drive belt.  You will want your drive belt to remain constant tension.  Maybe you will address this with a spring-loaded idler pulley?  Or, swap out the bolt you have on the idle side for a T-handle as well.

I made my own blade guides like yours.  The minute I added water-lube, the bearings ceased up.  I'm guessing water brought sawdust into them.  I ended up buying Cook's guides and they work great.

On your vertical guides, did you put some wear plates/Teflon in there?  Would probably help it move smoothly.

Do your guide bars stay in alignment with the blade (more important vertically, not so critical front to back)?    You want to be able to consistently cut square but if one side of the blade leads the other, that doesn't matter so much.  On your blade guide bars, you have hex bolts - consider either welding on a T handle or replace with handles you can work without tools like this:

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.) You want to keep the guides up to the wood and being able to do it without tool is much nicer.

As far as keeping your ACME threads free of sawdust, I would slip some PVC pipe over it.  Make the pieces just long enough that they fit when all the way up or down.  Hang the bottom one from the ACME nut.  The top one will just rest on the nut.  Hopefully, that will cover all the thread you will be actually using.

Keep in mind that you are going to want to operate your mill from the idle wheel side so you are not getting covered in sawdust!  Did you have to flip your blade (turn it inside out)?  Your rotation is opposite from most mills I've seen.

Thanks for all the good info,

I didn't think of saw dust building up on the track, I will add something to control that issue as well.

I will be adding a spring loaded idler pulley and I haven't come up with a design yet but I think I am also going to have the motor be able to slide for belt adjustments. 

I do like your T-handles and will be welding some handles on to the bolts at some point.

The blade guides I do like so far but they have not been proven yet since I have not been able to run it but I have looked at the cooks and if this fails I will purchase a set. It will be an easy retrofit.

The blade guides do stay in alignment. I made the guides adjustable in every direction if for some reason they become out of alignment.

The acme thread on this mill was not my original design. I originally had a cable and pulley system and I just couldn't get it to balance out properly and I had a lot of binding so this is actually design number 3 and I wish I would have started with the acme thread originally. It would have made everything better. This is the other reason you see the acme thread to the rear of the mill instead of being centered. I plan on using some vacuum cleaner hose to help keep the dust out of the treads.

 I will be operating the mill from the idler pulley side and pushing forward. The engine shaft would be facing me and the motors shaft rotation is counter clockwise so the blade will be moving to the right as the teeth direction indicate. I may not fully understand you last question on this so let me know if that makes any sense at all.




Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #19 on: December 17, 2015, 12:32:25 PM »
Welcome to the forum Jimmysmill13!
I won't repeat what's been said. What I will say is, nice job. I like the way that you have your pillow blocks spread out. I got mine too close together, and have to replace shafts way more often than I'd like. I would recommend putting some split locking collars on the shafts to keep them from being able to move.
The only other concern I have would be for the carriage wheels. It looks to me like you used idler pulleys. I don't think they will hold up long. But I've been wrong before.  ;)

Thanks!

I did put some collars with set screws on do think this should be a split lock instead?

I am not sure if the idler pulleys will hold up either. I did make them easy to switch out if one goes bad. It just a pin and collar holding them in place. It was away cheaper option then rail wheels.

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #20 on: December 17, 2015, 12:35:41 PM »
Wow... Looking good.
 I also think that you will need a spring-loaded idler pulley on your belts.
When sawing the belts will warm up and start to slip. I use a back idler
on my setup spring loaded and it really made a difference.
I also used Cooks bamdsaw guide wheels and they work great.
I also use the 13hp engine. Don't put to much set in your blades and
you will be good with that HP. I bet that like me you will be making a
bolt on extension soon.

Thanks!

I will definitely have a spring loaded idler

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #21 on: December 17, 2015, 12:37:51 PM »
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?

With that speed I guess these bearing will not be lasting very long.

I am look at around 4000 to 5000fpm, I will have a 13hp engine.

I am not sure what the speed will be on the bearings at this point.
If the OD of the bearings is 1 1/2", and your blade is traveling at 5000 sfpm, your guides will be spinning at about 12,732 rpm. That's pretty dog gone quick.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #22 on: December 17, 2015, 12:46:16 PM »
Jimmy, welcome to The Forestry Forum.
Great looking build so far. I will agree with ljohnsaw on your blade tensioner, but it wouldn't be a big deal to use the other wheel for your drive wheel and flip your blade inside out, from the looks of things.
Just a random question, did you already flip the blade inside out to make it saw the direction you are showing in the pics? I ask because both mills I've had they come to me with the teeth going the opposite of what you show. I don't know if it matters a bit, just curious.

Thanks!

Yes the direction you see is the way I set it up. My though process on this at the time was I didn't know if the drive belt would have issues being that the other side is designed for adjusting my toe. I was thinking I would have some alignment issues. I maybe wrong on this. I guess its going to be trial and error at this point.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #23 on: December 17, 2015, 12:58:09 PM »
Your mill looks nice and very rugged with many well-thought-out things on it.  Takes longer than you think, huh?  :)
The only thing that stands out to my eyes is your driven shaft, not the idle shaft.  The pulley to be driven by the engine is quite a ways away from the pillow block bearing.  I'm afraid you're going to have shaft breakage problems.  I'm thinking somehow the space between the pulley and the outboard pillow block needs to be smaller.  I would also recommend using red locktite on all the pillow block bearings.  Smear it all over the shaft and the set screws.  This will keep them from constantly loosening up.  This is for use with the cheap Chinese bearings.  The expensive US bearings probably won't have this problem.  Use heat to get the loctite to let loose for repairs if needed.  The guide bearings you're using are used by many mills.  They wear out pretty fast but are cheap and easy to replace as well.  Keep some gear oil in/on the ball bearings inside and they'll last a good long while.  Gear oil is a high pressure, high shear load oil with lots of sulfur in it (hence the smell) that uses that sulfur and a sacrificial wear surface that gets replenished using more oil on the next revolution (in an oil bath gearbox).  If you have any more questions, this is the best place to get them!  I'm not aware of any other place on the internet with a collection of so many smart, capable men from so many walks of life.  Collectively, we can do anything.
Nice looking homemade mill, buddy.  You have really nailed alot of the common problems with homemade jobbers.

Thanks!

Yes it is taking me much longer than I was thinking. I don't plan on having it even operational till spring.

The drive shaft is long at the moment but that is because I haven't purchased the engine yet and didn't want to cut the shaft till I had all the final dimension worked out. It should be much short in the end. Yes these are the cheap pillow block bearing so I will put lock tight on as you indicated.

I have some 80w gear oil to use on the bearings.

 Thanks again for all the info all you guys have been extremely helpfully. 

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #24 on: December 17, 2015, 01:05:02 PM »

 Thank you all for the much appreciated input on the mill so far. I will add more photos of the progress but I may not get much more done till after the holidays.

I do have question on the blade tensioning. How do I know how much tension is right for the blade and is there and easy way to determine this or do in need to add some sort of tension gauge for the blade? 

Offline Magicman

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #25 on: December 17, 2015, 01:16:53 PM »
I will be adding a spring loaded idler pulley and I haven't come up with a design yet but I think I am also going to have the motor be able to slide for belt adjustments. 
Rather than an idler pulley and sliding motor I would think toward a motor hinge/pivot/turnbuckle arrangement such as WM uses.  This would take care of your drive belt tension as well as your "clutch".
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #26 on: December 17, 2015, 01:39:26 PM »
I will be adding a spring loaded idler pulley and I haven't come up with a design yet but I think I am also going to have the motor be able to slide for belt adjustments. 
Rather than an idler pulley and sliding motor I would think toward a motor hinge/pivot/turnbuckle arrangement such as WM uses.  This would take care of your drive belt tension as well as your "clutch".


I like that idea to, it may keep things looking clean and simple on this mill.

Offline Den-Den

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #27 on: December 17, 2015, 01:53:11 PM »

 Thank you all for the much appreciated input on the mill so far. I will add more photos of the progress but I may not get much more done till after the holidays.

I do have question on the blade tensioning. How do I know how much tension is right for the blade and is there and easy way to determine this or do in need to add some sort of tension gauge for the blade?

A tension gauge is a nice feature, not sure it is necessary but you do need a way to set the tension so that it is repeatable between blade changes.  Some mills are set up so that a torque wrench is used to turn a screw that tensions the blade, I have heard that works fine once you figure how much works for your set-up.
From what I can tell, more tension is better than less as far as cutting is concerned but it also causes more wear and tear on shafts, bearings etc.  Excess tension will also cause tracking problems if the frame or shafts deflect enough to affect alignment.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #28 on: December 17, 2015, 04:10:25 PM »
I think your going to need track rollers. The belt idlers wont take the weight very well...
They are not that expensive on E-nay.

4" Temper Steel Gate V Groove Wheel Slide Roll Sliding Driveway Gate V Track

 

 
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #29 on: December 17, 2015, 04:56:52 PM »
The blade guides do stay in alignment. I made the guides adjustable in every direction if for some reason they become out of alignment.
What I was getting at is as you slide the guide close to or far from your log, it needs to remain the exact same height from the log bunks so you cut true/square cants.  Mine is off by about 1/8" at the extremes.
I plan on using some vacuum cleaner hose to help keep the dust out of the treads.
Nice idea - does it expand/contract in length?
I will be operating the mill from the idler pulley side and pushing forward. The engine shaft would be facing me and the motors shaft rotation is counter clockwise so the blade will be moving to the right as the teeth direction indicate. I may not fully understand you last question on this so let me know if that makes any sense at all.
I was just commenting on the direction your teeth face - no real question other than if you had to reverse the blade by turning inside out.

What is the T handle used for on the drive side?  It looks like it is used to tension the blade but will also affect the engine belt tension.  I think it should only serve one purpose.  You could use it to tension the engine belt and use another on the idle side for blade tension.  When you are cutting (from the idle side), you will want to be able to adjust the blade tension without walking around to the other side.  In my experience, I tighten my blade to the point where it stops fluttering too much.  And sometime a little more as I watch it cut.

For track wheels, I picked up 3.5" cheap cast iron snatch blocks.  Got 10 for $35.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #30 on: December 17, 2015, 05:48:56 PM »
The blade guides do stay in alignment. I made the guides adjustable in every direction if for some reason they become out of alignment.
What I was getting at is as you slide the guide close to or far from your log, it needs to remain the exact same height from the log bunks so you cut true/square cants.  Mine is off by about 1/8" at the extremes.

I see what your getting at now. I know there are close but I have to go out and check the accuracy of this.

I plan on using some vacuum cleaner hose to help keep the dust out of the treads.
Nice idea - does it expand/contract in length?

Yes it will expand and contract the down side is I just threw away an old vacuum that had what i am planning on using.
I will have to find some more.
 
I will be operating the mill from the idler pulley side and pushing forward. The engine shaft would be facing me and the motors shaft rotation is counter clockwise so the blade will be moving to the right as the teeth direction indicate. I may not fully understand you last question on this so let me know if that makes any sense at all.
I was just commenting on the direction you teeth face - no real question other than if you had to reverse the blade by turning inside out.

I didn't turn the blade inside out that I know of, unless I did it unknowingly.

What is the T handle used for on the drive side?  It looks like it is used to tension the blade but will also affect the engine belt tension.  I think it should only serve one purpose.  You could use it to tension the engine belt and use another on the idle side for blade tension.  When you are cutting (from the idle side), you will want to be able to adjust the blade tension without walking around to the other side.  In my experience, I tighten my blade to the point where it stops fluttering too much.  And sometime a little more as I watch it cut.

The T handle is only for setting the tension on the blade. I haven't figured out exactly what I am doing about the belt tension yet. I may have to do as you are advising and switch it to the idle side. My concern on the idle side is this is also how I set my toe. Do you think this will cause and issue with the belt and pulleys?

For track wheels, I picked up 3.5" cheap cast iron snatch blocks.  Got 10 for $35.

I like the snatch blocks, this would allow me to keep the current rail I am running.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #31 on: December 17, 2015, 06:06:22 PM »
I made toe adjustments for both side - it is/was necessary for my machine (using spare tires).

How wide is your rail?  My pulleys are about 1/2" wide groove, made for 3/8" cable.  My track is 1/4" angle iron, upright.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #32 on: December 17, 2015, 06:56:13 PM »
Welcome to the site.
 Using 1" shaft with the go-cart hubs will not last long. I say this from experience. I had 1" shaft on one side of my mill and it bent, then broke quite fast.
 I ended up with 1"3/8 shaft and it has held up fine.
 I like your mill. Listen to the advise people on this site provide, it helped me greatly.
 Nice job... Keep us updated.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #33 on: December 17, 2015, 08:08:30 PM »
Welcome to the forum Jimmysmill13!
I won't repeat what's been said. What I will say is, nice job. I like the way that you have your pillow blocks spread out. I got mine too close together, and have to replace shafts way more often than I'd like. I would recommend putting some split locking collars on the shafts to keep them from being able to move.
The only other concern I have would be for the carriage wheels. It looks to me like you used idler pulleys. I don't think they will hold up long. But I've been wrong before.  ;)

Thanks!

I did put some collars with set screws on do think this should be a split lock instead?

I am not sure if the idler pulleys will hold up either. I did make them easy to switch out if one goes bad. It just a pin and collar holding them in place. It was away cheaper option then rail wheels.
Yes, the collars with set screws only have the screws, and the small section of the shaft just opposite holding. Where the split collars are actually gripping/squeezing all the way around the shaft. They will hold way better.
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #34 on: December 17, 2015, 08:16:16 PM »
The T handle is only for setting the tension on the blade. I haven't figured out exactly what I am doing about the belt tension yet. I may have to do as you are advising and switch it to the idle side. My concern on the idle side is this is also how I set my toe. Do you think this will cause and issue with the belt and pulleys?

Looking at the pictures, your motor mount is attached to the main frame, right?  So, as you tension your blade, you are also moving the shaft farther from the motor mount, right?  That is why I was saying it is doing both.  For engaging the saw, you have three options.  You can have a centripetal clutch, an electric clutch (I have that now, part of the lawn tractor engine) or a lever activated belt tension system (had that in my first iteration).  With how you have your blade tension potentially affecting your drive belt tension, I think the lever tension system would be your best option at this point.  Then your idle side can remain as it is now.  But I think you need to figure out a way to adjust toe (easily) on the drive side as well.  You certainly can elongate the holes on one of your pillow block mount plates, but that is not an easy field adjustment.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #35 on: December 17, 2015, 08:27:53 PM »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Great job on the mill. My little mill uses 1 1/2" shafts with the 16" wheels centered between them and no overhang. You may need to go with much larger shafts  to keep the blade tension from flexing the shafts. :)
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #36 on: April 07, 2016, 06:36:50 PM »
Here is a update on the saw mill I have been building. It has been a while since my last post but here is what I have done. I have added a  13HP engine, Centrifugal Clutch, and Idler pulley.  I have also modified a few things taken from all your recommendations. Things like blade direction and the drive wheel is now on the left wheel. Today I was able to fire it up and run a couple test runs on the mill. I must say that I am more then pleased. I was surprised how well it cut. The cut was straight and the surface was very smooth. The thickness from one side to the other was only off about a 1/32" to 1/16".

The next step is to add:
 
Battery for engine
Tank for lubricant
Blade Guard
Guard for Acme Thread. 
Height Gauge
 

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #37 on: April 07, 2016, 07:14:08 PM »
Here are the Photos

















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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #38 on: April 07, 2016, 09:58:27 PM »
Another success story - well done!
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #39 on: April 07, 2016, 10:35:01 PM »
Here is a update on the saw mill I have been building. It has been a while since my last post but here is what I have done. I have added a  13HP engine, Centrifugal Clutch, and Idler pulley.  I have also modified a few things taken from all your recommendations. Things like blade direction and the drive wheel is now on the left wheel. Today I was able to fire it up and run a couple test runs on the mill. I must say that I am more then pleased. I was surprised how well it cut. The cut was straight and the surface was very smooth. The thickness from one side to the other was only off about a 1/32" to 1/16".

The next step is to add:
 
Battery for engine
Tank for lubricant
Blade Guard
Guard for Acme Thread. 
Height Gauge
  <br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/831C1DB5-2C3E-41EB-90B4-ACA5AF3430F4_zpsqubvrywy.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/831C1DB5-2C3E-41EB-90B4-ACA5AF3430F4_zpsqubvrywy.jpg[/img]http://[/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/874477C3-6A98-4F4E-B8B2-22F9AC39D06F_zpsug0vepzq.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/874477C3-6A98-4F4E-B8B2-22F9AC39D06F_zpsug0vepzq.jpg[/img][/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/1ABA36A1-2EA0-476F-86D7-59884D2D4B68_zps7tpq5fgb.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/1ABA36A1-2EA0-476F-86D7-59884D2D4B68_zps7tpq5fgb.jpg[/img]http://[/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/383D8414-610A-4C0B-B0F4-CD69E54A8829_zpsz6zlq0tp.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/383D8414-610A-4C0B-B0F4-CD69E54A8829_zpsz6zlq0tp.jpg[/img][/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/C4B16B28-FECD-463F-8778-2E4B8665D02D_zpscjcxom6o.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/C4B16B28-FECD-463F-8778-2E4B8665D02D_zpscjcxom6o.jpg[/img]http://[/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/544681E9-2DE1-42A9-AFA8-7E622B807150_zpsdvpgvnju.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/544681E9-2DE1-42A9-AFA8-7E622B807150_zpsdvpgvnju.jpg[/img][/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/ACF5745D-D3CB-4928-BAA3-D66ABFE17F98_zpst64turee.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/ACF5745D-D3CB-4928-BAA3-D66ABFE17F98_zpst64turee.jpg[/img]http://[/URL]
<br --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/user/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/media/C76C44A3-52D4-48E0-A5E1-B044F7085CC0_zpsibivzs6p.jpg.html][img width=650 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/albums/r627/James_M_Schlosser_Jr/C76C44A3-52D4-48E0-A5E1-B044F7085CC0_zpsibivzs6p.jpg[/img][/URL]
Well done and sure looks nice.Now I'm asking what did it cost American $ wise Cause it would cost me about 40k Canadian to build one like that,I have 2 mills one is a Norwood's and its older and also a Trim Saw.Sure its rusty and needs work Here in Canada people think $20.00 would buy it  :) .Paid 6k but never got it work,to busy working else where,So I asking 2,500.00 but people figure its way out of ball park.Anything less well the hot wrench can turn it scrap for me or turn into a trailer for the logs & lumber. ::)But just wondering what it cost you for yours up this stage,Material & wages of building it. ;) 
Lives to do sawdust,run a trapline,hunt big game,live life to it's most.Got 4 mills a circle mill,(2 band sawmills) Norwood's 2000, Trim Saw,Beam Machine (chainsaw mill).

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #40 on: April 07, 2016, 11:36:25 PM »
Congratulations on making some cuts!  I really like your belt tensioner.  I need to hit a Pick-N-Pull to get me one of them.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #41 on: April 08, 2016, 11:55:54 AM »
Here is a update on the saw mill I have been building. It has been a while since my last post but here is what I have done. I have added a  13HP engine, Centrifugal Clutch, and Idler pulley.  I have also modified a few things taken from all your recommendations. Things like blade direction and the drive wheel is now on the left wheel. Today I was able to fire it up and run a couple test runs on the mill. I must say that I am more then pleased. I was surprised how well it cut. The cut was straight and the surface was very smooth. The thickness from one side to the other was only off about a 1/32" to 1/16".

The next step is to add:
 
Battery for engine
Tank for lubricant
Blade Guard
Guard for Acme Thread. 
Height Gauge

Well done and sure looks nice.Now I'm asking what did it cost American $ wise Cause it would cost me about 40k Canadian to build one like that,I have 2 mills one is a Norwood's and its older and also a Trim Saw.Sure its rusty and needs work Here in Canada people think $20.00 would buy it  :) .Paid 6k but never got it work,to busy working else where,So I asking 2,500.00 but people figure its way out of ball park.Anything less well the hot wrench can turn it scrap for me or turn into a trailer for the logs & lumber. ::)But just wondering what it cost you for yours up this stage,Material & wages of building it. ;)

I have approximately 1000 to 1200 hundred in materials but some of the materials I have had laying around from other projects. The labor is countless hours of trial and error. This project has never been about the cost but more about the challenge that I could built it and it be functional. This is just a hobby for me, I wanted the mill so I could cut rough cut lumber for other projects that I will be working on. Its been fun making the mill to this point. 

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #42 on: April 08, 2016, 11:57:18 AM »
Congratulations on making some cuts!  I really like your belt tensioner.  I need to hit a Pick-N-Pull to get me one of them.

Thnaks!

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #43 on: April 08, 2016, 07:25:10 PM »
Thats kinda neat... It cost mw $1280.00 to build my mill...
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #44 on: April 12, 2016, 09:06:41 PM »
Here is a Link to on of my first runs on the sawmill




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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #45 on: April 12, 2016, 09:18:41 PM »
That is a board making machine.   8)
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #46 on: April 12, 2016, 09:26:21 PM »
 smiley_clapping
Just an ole farm boy takin one day at a time.
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #47 on: April 12, 2016, 09:27:48 PM »
Success!  Looks nice and smooth and seems like the "sing" sounds right, too.  Cool! 
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #48 on: March 20, 2018, 10:53:23 AM »

SAWMILL BUILD UPDATE

Over the last 4 months I have made several changes and update to my mill. The changes I have done are as followed.

-- New Steel Tack wheels (Harbor Freight 2 Ton Push Beam Trolley for the wheels)
-- Lubricant Tank / line
-- Mill is now portable (Used old camper frame 2200lbs axle)
-- Blade Guard Built
-- Wireless Winch added to control lift (Harbor Freight Badland 2500 lb. ATV/Utility Electric Winch with Wireless Remote             Control)
-- Replaced tires with Sheaves (18.75" OD H-Bushing Single Groove Pulleys with MVP Industrial B57/5L600 V-Force Premium     V-Belt, 5/8" Top Width X 60" Outside Circumference)
-- 4 trailer Jacks (3500 lb. Capacity Drop Leg Heavy Duty Trailer Jack)
-- Built new log stops / Log Dogs
-- Built tie downs / supports for transporting
-- Wheel Fenders
-- Paint


New Steel Wheels are from a Harbor Freight beam trolley.


7 Gallon fresh water tank (RELIANCE AQUA TAINER Tank from Walmart)
















These secure the mill to the frame.

This is a removable support for the mill head when transporting.



Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #49 on: March 20, 2018, 11:06:38 AM »
I like your color scheme - are you into Harley's? ;)

I REALLY like your transport support bar for the head.  That will save you some grief.  On your log dogs, I noticed your T-bolts down on the bottom.  You probably already found out you won't be needing those.  Once there is pressure on the top log screw, they seem to lock in place on the slider.

Your log bunks look pretty low.  What is the thickness of your last cut you can make?  Might need to add something on top of the bunks.  Have you thought about adding linkage to your log dogs so they all raise and lower together?  Not sure if that would be good or bad.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #50 on: March 20, 2018, 11:22:04 AM »
that has to roll real easy with that size wheel?
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #51 on: March 20, 2018, 11:58:34 AM »
I like your color scheme - are you into Harley's? ;)

I REALLY like your transport support bar for the head.  That will save you some grief.  On your log dogs, I noticed your T-bolts down on the bottom.  You probably already found out you won't be needing those.  Once there is pressure on the top log screw, they seem to lock in place on the slider.

Your log bunks look pretty low.  What is the thickness of your last cut you can make?  Might need to add something on top of the bunks.  Have you thought about adding linkage to your log dogs so they all raise and lower together?  Not sure if that would be good or bad.
Thanks!
The T-bolt are really just to store the log dogs. That way they are not bouncing around on the road.
Your right about the log bunks. I have to add a top bunk. My last cut is 5" so I will be adding those in the near future.

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #52 on: March 20, 2018, 12:02:29 PM »
that has to roll real easy with that size wheel?
The mill rolls extremely easy and smooth. I was really surprised how well they worked. The wheel is 4"

Offline Kwill

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #53 on: March 20, 2018, 10:56:55 PM »
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Built my own hydraulic splitter
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #54 on: March 20, 2018, 11:07:48 PM »
Looks great....
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Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #55 on: March 21, 2018, 10:16:47 PM »
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Thanks! 
The log stops are made from 1/4x2x2 square tubing.
 It slides into 1/4x2.5x2.5 square tubing. 

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #56 on: March 22, 2018, 05:30:47 PM »
So today I setup the mill up. Fitted the  new blade and started to test run the mill. 5 minutes into the run I bent the a shaft. 

I am running a 1 shaft and I know that was it was insufficient. So I need to upgaded. Will a 1.5 shaft work ok? I have H-Block style Sheaves and the largest H-Block available is 1.5. 


Offline Kbeitz

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #57 on: March 22, 2018, 06:05:40 PM »
More important is the kind of steel you use...  Use something like 1060 steel 
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Offline Kwill

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #58 on: March 22, 2018, 10:33:40 PM »
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Thanks!
The log stops are made from 1/4x2x2 square tubing.
 It slides into 1/4x2.5x2.5 square tubing.
Thanks for the info. Gonna pick some up tomorrow hopefully to get mine made.
Built my own hydraulic splitter
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Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #59 on: March 22, 2018, 11:48:05 PM »
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Thanks!
The log stops are made from 1/4x2x2 square tubing.
 It slides into 1/4x2.5x2.5 square tubing.
Thanks for the info. Gonna pick some up tomorrow hopefully to get mine made.


Word of caution, though.  Not all 2x2 and 2.5x2.5 are equal.  I have some 2x2 that is very square-cornered and some that is more round-cornered.  The 2.5x2.5 (that I got) is more rounded cornered.  The more square 2x2 won't fit without knocking the corners off - a real PITA.  Also, the inside of the 2.5 will have a weld seam that  you will have to deal with.  I chucked mine up in a 4-jaw off center and used a boring bar to take it out.  Others have used a file - not sure which is faster.

Also, I had some 2x2 that wasn't.  It was slightly thicker one way as was the 2.5x2.5.  They only fit one way so watch for that as well when you get ready to weld nuts and such on.  Or, do what I did and hit the thick side with an angle grinder - almost was able to fix it with a sanding disk - it was that close.
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Offline BigZ La

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #60 on: March 23, 2018, 12:19:30 AM »
If you don't mind me asking what did you use for your rails that the wheels are running on. It looks like a small railroad rail.  :D

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #61 on: March 23, 2018, 06:41:46 AM »
More important is the kind of steel you use...  Use something like 1060 steel
Would you know where to purchase some 1060 shafts? That stuff is hard to find.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #62 on: March 23, 2018, 06:46:18 AM »
If you don't mind me asking what did you use for your rails that the wheels are running on. It looks like a small railroad rail.  :D
The I-beam and Rail are from a Double Girder Crane that was taken out of service. 

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #63 on: March 23, 2018, 08:05:58 AM »
I have some 2x2 that is very square-cornered and some that is more round-cornered.


This is typically due to wall thickness. The thicker the wall the larger the radius. Makes spotting wall thicknesses pretty easy if you know what you are looking for.
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #64 on: March 23, 2018, 09:02:17 AM »
More important is the kind of steel you use...  Use something like 1060 steel
Would you know where to purchase some 1060 shafts? That stuff is hard to find.
Any of the metal suppler should be able to get you anything you want.
If you have the right shafting you could stay with 1"
Got to E-bay and search for   " hardened steel linear bearing rod"
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #65 on: March 23, 2018, 09:03:34 AM »
can also put that end into double shear by adding another bearing. But I would still recommend a better shaft
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #66 on: March 23, 2018, 09:10:15 AM »
E-bay has some air hardening, high-carbon, high-chromium tool 1" D2 shafting listed for sale. Much better than standard shafting.
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Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #67 on: March 23, 2018, 09:21:47 AM »
can also put that end into double shear by adding another bearing. But I would still recommend a better shaft
Thanks for the help

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #68 on: March 23, 2018, 09:22:29 AM »
E-bay has some air hardening, high-carbon, high-chromium tool 1" D2 shafting listed for sale. Much better than standard shafting.
Ok I will check that out.  Thanks for the help
 

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #69 on: April 07, 2018, 06:13:48 PM »
UPDATE AND REDESIGN #1000

 I have decided to to change the 1" shaft to 1.5" shaft. I felt even with going with a 1" higher grade shaft there maybe two much flex with the amount of pressure being applied to the band saw blade and sheaves.

I have installed new:
Shafts 1.5"
UC208 1.5" Pillow Blocks
Split Collars 1.5"
New Drive Sheave to slow the Blade speed down to 4416 SFPM
91" 5/8" B-Belt
Redesign belt tensioner / bracket
Built guard around drive wheel

I have since been able to run the sawmill on my first test log and very pleased with the result. The mill is running great now. I did make one mistake and I don't know what I was thinking when I installed the log dogs and log stops. I installed the log stops on the wrong side of the log bed. Instead of removing then I am just going to lift the mill head off and spin it around. Problem solved.


 

 

 
 

Offline Magicman

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #70 on: April 07, 2018, 06:50:57 PM »
Wow Jimmy, this 2 year journey should be required reading for anyone considering a sawmill build.  You have been very professional with your narratives and picture documentation.  My FF hat is off to you.  smiley_thumbsup
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Offline Kwill

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #71 on: April 07, 2018, 09:48:34 PM »
Very nice build 8)
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
In the process of building my sawmill

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #72 on: April 07, 2018, 11:24:56 PM »
Here is a link of my mill operational on youtube.


Offline RjMaan

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #73 on: April 09, 2018, 08:20:25 AM »
Wow, man I really like your efforts on making such an impressive sawmill. Well, there are many SPAM LINK EDITED OUT BY ADMIN available and you should use them for future repairing.


Offline Jeff

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #74 on: April 09, 2018, 12:22:51 PM »
Well, I started watching this guy above yesterday when I saw posts that just seemed odd. Friendly posts but out of place. I thought and hoped perhaps he was the first legit member from Pakistan. NOPE.  So, I had to ban him. Apparently the new tactics from spammers is to gain entrance, try to blend in, then post links to direct you to what ever it is they post links to.
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Offline SawyerTed

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #75 on: April 09, 2018, 03:06:02 PM »
Jeff, I wondered about that guy.... I saw a couple of posts in other threads.  They just didn't seem right.  So much for blending in.

Jimmysmill13, you've done an awesome job with this build!  It is nice to see a home built machine that looks so finished and professional!  I hope you get some custom logos for your machine.  That will take it up one more notch!
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #76 on: April 09, 2018, 03:54:48 PM »
Yup, that is the guy that I have been watching since he first joined.  He just was not right with his comments.
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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #77 on: April 09, 2018, 05:53:38 PM »
I'm afraid that's an indication of how gullible spammers think people are.  Glad Jeff is vigilant!
Woodmizer LT35HD25, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Offline Jimmysmill13

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #78 on: April 10, 2018, 09:56:50 PM »
Jeff, I wondered about that guy.... I saw a couple of posts in other threads.  They just didn't seem right.  So much for blending in.

Jimmysmill13, you've done an awesome job with this build!  It is nice to see a home built machine that looks so finished and professional!  I hope you get some custom logos for your machine.  That will take it up one more notch!


Thanks! I like the logo idea.

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Re: New Guy with my Sawmill Build
« Reply #79 on: April 23, 2018, 05:01:33 PM »
Just finished adding some log bunks. 10 Birch log loaded on the new log bunks.
 

 


 
 

 


 


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