miss calculating long logs

[drobertson]

not sure how to post this or even discuss it, but wondering how many folks that saw 16' to 20', even you guys that saw with bed extensions,  deal with heavy slabs that come about? mainly on the  third and fourth face cut?   For me it happens at times.  Slabs that produce at least a good 2x6" at least.

[Kbeitz]

Just man handle it....
These are 24 footers.



 

[Brucer]

I always saw with the small end of the log closest to the front (where the blade enters the log). Other people prefer the large end at the front. They key thing is to be consistent -- do it one way or the other.

Because I'm usually sawing timbers, I always calculate where my saw has to enter to make the first face of the timber. Then I raise it up from there (in multiples of 1" or 2") to make my opening face.

Typically I'll raise the head to where I think my opening cut should be, then run the carriage down until the blade just touches the log. My goal is to have an opening cut that will give me at least a 1x8 x 8' long. If it looks like I can squeek one more board out of the butt, I'll raise the head another 1".

Sawing this way I'll get a bunch of slabs with a good board at the butt end. I drag these back onto my roller table as I cut them and then push them sideways onto a set of horses. When the log is finished, I'll shift the long slabs and cut them to length with a chainsaw. The slab portion goes in my slab rack, the lumber portion gets shifted onto my storage bunks for future edging.

It may not seem worth it to cut one or two 8' 1x4's, but it saves having to handle heavy slabs.

[Darrel]

I like to have the butt end of the log to the front because I can more easily see where to make the first cut.  I use the far toe board to level the pith.  My goal is to get a 6' useable board on second cut, no matter the length of the log.

[ladylake]

 
I still get those heavy slabs  once in a while also, slide them on to the loader arms or if real heavy right on to the skid loader forks. then say a few choice words and remind myself thin slabs are better even if I waste a cut once in a while.   Steve

[47sawdust]

I use Steve's method,we have the same dictionary. ;D

[sawmilljoe]

I was told by a really old time sawyer many years ago (why waste a good slab to make a really crappy board). if I can not get a good clean 1*4 its a slab takes to much time. I  start at the small end level the log drop to square cant if 6 inches across I cut if more I come up if log tells me to.

[fishfighter]

New to sawing, I know I'm wasting way to much lumber. Some of my first cuts weigh in over 100 lbs. It's a shame I do that, but if it's hard wood, I do stack them and then cut those into firewood.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Not understanding  why slabs would be heavier 3rd and 4th cut.  Way I saw some of any flare is less by then too.

Some of my decision whether to salvage a board depends on how dirty and irregular the log is,  trying to minimize blade dulling, debarker doesn't get everything.

But 16-20 yes is heavy , sometimes turn the slab sideways on the cant part sloping to ground & chainsaw it a couple places.

[Brad_bb]

I think your question is not clear in that in can be interpreted in a couple ways. 
1. How do you handle the weight of a thick long slab?
2. How do you prevent leaving a board in a slab?
or the question I think you are really asking,
3. Once you have a slab that you think has a board in it, how do you get the board out? 

1. A forklift or Front End Loader (FEL) with forks, and/or an off-bearer.
2. Put the big end towards the front as Darrell says, and instead of starting where you normally would, move up to cut a board thickness and try to cut the extra board.  It's a judgement call.  If it looks like a useable one, set aside to edge at the end.  If it's no good, cut it for firewood.
3. The trick can be clamping and being able to cut low enough.  (I'm assuming a band mill as that is what I am familiar with).  You may need to make your own clamp ends.  I know that I need to make a set of special clamp ends myself too when I get around to it.  To get more clearance, take one of your boards and place on the mill as a spacer and put your slab on top and clamp it.  It's definitely more wood to do this, so only do it if you have extra time and after the majority is cut.  Hopefully you've set such slabs aside and can do them all together one at a time.  I can't see doing this stuff without a forklift or FEL.  I often use the outside slab cuts to make 4/4 stickers.  What you are talking to get another board is about the same amount of screwing around I do to get my stickers.  I'm quite stingy with my wood and use the very outside partial boards for stickers. 

[Peter Drouin]

Open with a 4" face you won't have a big slab;
And if it is longer cut it in ½. :D

[Magicman]

Yup, sometimes you will miss a board in a slab.  Often they can be recovered as ladylake described above, but if they bow, forgetaboutit and move on.

why waste a good slab to make a really crappy board

Now that is good.   

[Verticaltrx]

If I cut a heavy/long slab and realize there is still a good board in it I will saw it again with it still sitting on top of the log. This only works if it is still sitting flat and you cut very slowly to prevent pulling it off the side. I find that on a heavy 16'+ slab the weight of it is usually enough to keep it in place while I cut another board out of it. This is probably a dangerous and non-recommended method, but it works for me and saves some heavy lifting.

[WV Sawmiller]

   If I realize I have slabbed off a cut too thick I push it on my loading arms and cut the board off the bottom when I finish with the rest of the log. As mentioned above you have to be careful with clamping.

   

[Ga Mtn Man]

Yup, sometimes you will miss a board in a slab.  Often they can be recovered as ladylake described above, but if they bow, forgetaboutit and move on.

why waste a good slab to make a really crappy board

Now that is good.   

Yep, in my opinion the boards that come out of those slabs aren't usually worth the trouble.  Heavy slabs get wrestled  onto the loader arms and are chainsawed into two or three pieces, for the sake of my back.  I will on occasion throw the thicker piece back on the mill if I'm in need of utility-grade lumber.

[drobertson]

You guys pretty much summed up what I was thinking, and I suppose it boils down to being lazy, to brads remark, I was referring to eye balling the third face which most times has the hump in it and at times a swelled butt and I just miss judge how thick it is on the other end,  I chain saw the waste off and try to salvage a decent length.  These are nice pine logs.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Don't want to think about the cost in blades,  time, and aggravation of starting a cut, seeing it's too heavy, trying to back out (**$%!!!) then cutting a crappy board.  : : :

[beenthere]

Yet the highest quality wood in most any log is just below the bark. Usually free of knots and clear straight grain. 
We would go for a 4" face if sawing for grade. Our slab pile wasn't very friendly to the firewood pickers. 

[Kbeitz]

I think your question is not clear in that in can be interpreted in a couple ways. 
1. How do you handle the weight of a thick long slab?
2. How do you prevent leaving a board in a slab?
or the question I think you are really asking,
3. Once you have a slab that you think has a board in it, how do you get the board out? 

1. A forklift or Front End Loader (FEL) with forks, and/or an off-bearer.
2. Put the big end towards the front as Darrell says, and instead of starting where you normally would, move up to cut a board thickness and try to cut the extra board.  It's a judgement call.  If it looks like a useable one, set aside to edge at the end.  If it's no good, cut it for firewood.
3. The trick can be clamping and being able to cut low enough.  (I'm assuming a band mill as that is what I am familiar with).  You may need to make your own clamp ends.  I know that I need to make a set of special clamp ends myself too when I get around to it.  To get more clearance, take one of your boards and place on the mill as a spacer and put your slab on top and clamp it.  It's definitely more wood to do this, so only do it if you have extra time and after the majority is cut.  Hopefully you've set such slabs aside and can do them all together one at a time.  I can't see doing this stuff without a forklift or FEL.  I often use the outside slab cuts to make 4/4 stickers.  What you are talking to get another board is about the same amount of screwing around I do to get my stickers.  I'm quite stingy with my wood and use the very outside partial boards for stickers.

I just made clamps to do just that...



 

[drobertson]

I reckon I just wanted to post something, I got frustrated in a few of these where I missed judged,  It usually happens on the first when I go from 8 and 10's  but in six of the logs I just flat miss judged the other end,  Many times I will dry pass above the bark and just to see where it's at, but got lazy on that, plus got lazy on making another pass, the order is for 2x6's so just lazy. Getting the board out is nothing more than another set at the end, and in a few ways
(what I convinced myself) it beats fighting a flimsy long waste board.  These actually did not bow at all, so the 8'ers that came out were pretty nice. I just wondered If some of you folks miss like this, some of you answered that question, 

[Peter Drouin]

Yet the highest quality wood in most any log is just below the bark. Usually free of knots and clear straight grain. 
We would go for a 4" face if sawing for grade. Our slab pile wasn't very friendly to the firewood pickers. 

you got it, when I spend $$ on truck loads of logs I like to get all the lumber I can from them. When I cut a 4" face and I see it will make not the best 4" board. I will drop the head a ½" and cut . 99% of the time I have a nice clear 5" face. Then take a 1" flinch or two for W Pine. Hemlock I go 2" flinch, and there's my 2x4.

[ladylake]

You wouldn't think it but a 1/2" sure makes a lot of difference.   Steve

[taylorsmissbeehaven]

I struggle with this all the time. If its for me, I can be lazy and just go for it. I burn wood in the house and shop! If its for a customer I have to get the most I can for them. I like to keep the slabs around for a customer to see. That way they know I did the best I could and sometimes the woodworkers want a slab or two. The "dry pass" is about the best way I have found to be accurate on the gnarly ones! Opening with a 4" face does help keep the weight down. Good info,  Brian

[GAB]

You wouldn't think it but a 1/2" sure makes a lot of difference.   Steve

You got that right.
Gerald

[Brucer]

I mostly cut timbers to order. When I'm doing a boxed heart timber (with the small end closest to the front), I use the saw head to "measure" the large end of the log. To do this I run the raised head down the mill until the blade is directly above the last bed rail supporting the log. Then I lower the head until the blade just touches the log and take a height reading. I divide this number by two to calculate the height of the centre of the log.

Doing it this way, even when I raise the front of the log (and lower the far end), the place I measured doesn't usually move up or down much.

One side effect of doing this is that I have a pretty good idea of where and how high my blade will enter the far end of the log.