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Rebuilding old circle mill, questions about mandrell pins, nut

Started by halfkeck, December 23, 2015, 12:46:11 PM

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halfkeck

So we are a few years longer into this project than I would like to admit but we finally got a building up and started putting posts in the ground to frame up the track and husk.  How tight do the pins that go from the mandrel to the collar need to be?  Ours appear to be 1/2 pins in a 5/8 hole.  Would we be better off trying to drill new holes 90 degrees off the old ones in the collar or just making new pins that fit tighter even with the holes being a touch oblonged? 


After a substantial amount of heat we go the saw blade off.  Nut is a bit worn from being changed with a sledge hammer I suspect.  Anyone making new ones, or should we machine up one?  Its a 2" shaft where the saw blade would sit, I assume its a normal size.

halfkeck

[img width=480 height=640]https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41661/saw_collar__2.jpg[/

Fixed the double pic, thanks.  Here is a picture of our well worn nut.  Can get our machinist to make one if there are not new ones easily available.

beenthere

halfkeck

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Look forward to hear more about the sawmill re-build.


You can remove the extra pic by going to that post and click on "modify" button. There you will see the double entry for both pics. Delete just one, and click the Preview button to double check that it comes out the way you want it.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ddcuning

Halfkeck, welcome to the FF.

I had new collar for my mill made going through D&D Sawmill Parts and Service in Chambersburg PA. They have them in stock for Frick mills but not sure what kind of mill you have. The answer is yes, you can get them made. I think mine was just over $100 and I got a new nut also. I would think that a local machine shop should be able to reproduce your collar as well as make new pins.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

dustyhat

I really believe you will be happier in the long run,  having these pieces freshend up.

dustyhat

My opinion on tight nuts are pin problems, make sense , a blade turns one way and the nut the opposite, loose pins well let the saw torque back if stuck hard in a log, then along gos the outside collar and nut getting tightened even more  . not scientific but just my opinion.

halfkeck





This sawmill was donated to our antique tractor club.  It was owned by a family who had it for nearly 70 years or so and they used it on their farm to saw out several of their houses.  It was originally powered by a two cylinder John Deere power unit, but we have other things in mind to power it with when we get it set up on our show grounds.  I am unable to locate any builders name on it though it has very similar parts to the Frick scattered across my back yard.  I think it was what you would call a farm mill that you ordered from Sears Roebuck or Montgomery Ward and assembled the kit.

halfkeck






More pictures of the sawmill before we moved it off the farm

Kbeitz

I would have your holes drill out to 3/4" and then make shouldered down pins to 1/2".
Easy lathe job.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Gearbox

I run a ) howell "0" for our club and I think every saw mill I have run the pins fit loose . All they do is hold the saw from rotating . Once the saw turns tight to the pins it just stays there . Loose pins are not going the effect the saw . When you get it hooked up saw speed is most important part of sawing good lumber. Just keep running your speed up till the saw stands up . Tell us where you are at someone may be right down the road and ready to help .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

Jeff

The shear pins should fit loose. When you tighten the mandrel nut on the saw, you pull the blade back against the pins then tighten. They should Not be tight.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeff

Do not increase the size. They are designed to be the weak point.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, halfkeck.  I do not know circle sawmills, but I love to read and follow along.   :)
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Ron Wenrich

I have seen stepped pins.  I think that would be an OK way to go.  The stepped pin would act the same as a regular shear pin, because the heavier part is inside the collar.  The part that will shear is still 1/2".  I don't think I would go to 3/4", just clean up the 5/8" part.  I believe using the 1/2" pin would probably be OK, as well.  It would just be a little more sloppy.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

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