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Author Topic: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices  (Read 4354 times)

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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #20 on: March 19, 2016, 01:02:12 AM »
Well, I finally scored myself a used SLR, and had it delivered today.  Can't wait to open it up and get to using it.  It a 15 hp used unit, that I got for an exceptional discount.  It had an easy life, was a trade show machine, and only used maybe at four exhibits, with a grand total of 27.6 hours in it.  The guy who sold it to me said that the only thing wrong with it is maybe a rust stain where somebody had put a beer mug on it. 

I've already got a 30 hp phase converter hooked up to main power and operable, (finished that yesterday) so hopefully will have this up and running before long. 
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Offline 4x4American

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #21 on: March 19, 2016, 06:42:18 AM »
You definitely screw straight!  As opposed to screwin around.  Nice!
Boy, back in my day..

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #22 on: April 03, 2016, 11:23:50 PM »
Well, we've had a few good sessions with the new straight line rip saw, and the verdict is that's it's very easy to use and a huge timesaver.  We straight lined several thousand Bdft of some real trouble maker wood this weekend, including elm, sycamore, as well as some more stable oak, maple and buckeye.  I had been saving pallets of rejects up until I got the saw hooked up, so had a decent stockpile to go through. 
Here's a picture of one of the stacks before we started working it, and then here's a picture at the end of today, with a trailer full of edgings. 
 

 
 

 
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #23 on: April 04, 2016, 05:29:14 AM »
Conversation of three phase and rotary converters.

In a nut shell all they are is a three phase motor with a capacitor start single phase starting circuit which generates the third phase by induction .I've built about twenty of them myself .It's not magic nor rocket science and they are around 92 percent efficient .

Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #24 on: April 04, 2016, 06:40:59 AM »
Looks good, I was surprised to see all the short wood in the pile. 8' is the shortest wood I sell. Do you put all the short wood in a pile, all mix kinds together?
Or put the short in with the long stuff in the same pile of the same kind of wood?
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And a license NH soft wood grader.
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Offline WDH

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #25 on: April 04, 2016, 08:13:07 AM »
I end up with short boards in furniture grade hardwood because sometimes you need to cut out a defect, or you may have to cut a bowed board into two shorter straight boards.  The key to getting the best price is to prepare the wood very well.  I am still working on doing a better job of this, and I recently put in a 12" jointer to help with crooked or bowed boards.
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #26 on: April 04, 2016, 09:29:20 AM »
 

 
All of these Ash 1X6's and 1X8's were 14' long when they went to my planer/T&G guy.   After straight line ripping, etc. they came back in various lengths.  Not a problem because lengths didn't matter with my flooring.   
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #27 on: April 04, 2016, 10:41:31 PM »
Looks good, I was surprised to see all the short wood in the pile. 8' is the shortest wood I sell. Do you put all the short wood in a pile, all mix kinds together?
Or put the short in with the long stuff in the same pile of the same kind of wood?
We cull and grade as we restock.  Every week, we take our planed but not graded packs of lumber and start re-stocking the shelves, species by species.  We go through a lot of wood every week, and as we reload the racks, we put all the rejects onto pallets and process them all in a mixed batch.  Hopefully we don't have many but sometimes we do. So it becomes a mixed species pallet (or pallets) that we take inside to clean up.  We clean everything to remove as many defects as possible, and only sell common grade of a few species, such as red oak, hickory and maple.  Everything else gets the premium "HHA" (Hobby Hardwood Alabama ;D)  grade as our customers say, which is basically a clean board with no knots.  Short boards sell fine, and 8 footers seem to be the longest most folks want to deal with on a routine basis.
Just this year I made a stack or two of 12 foot and 10 foot of a couple species (white oak and hard maple), and they sold much slower than 8 footers of the same species.  Also, since out boards are very clean, nobody wants to pay for a board with a knot or defect.  So we trim them out.  Basically we take a FAS board and instead of having the customer visualizing the clear wood in the board, we do the trimming and get the clear wood of the boards and only sell that.  So I have the advantage that as I'm sawing, I can try to optimize the grade, real time, as I know how I'm going to trim.  Its an interesting market, and most of the people I deal with, although many are professional furniture makers and woodworkers, don't care about the nuances of grade, they want dead clear wood and are willing to pay for it.
We had the ripsaw up a running for a couple weeks now, and better than half of the customers have started asking us to straight line the boards before they leave.  We charge 50 cents per bdft for two edges, and which may be about what, or maybe half of what we paid for some of the logs to begin with.  So the simple act of straight lining the finished boards brings significant profit margin and also makes the customer happy.
       
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Offline WDH

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #28 on: April 05, 2016, 07:16:25 AM »
Some of the lower grade, knottier boards sell better if you leave the live edge, but in many cases, there is not much you can do about low grade except to try and not saw it. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5640SU, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline 4x4American

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #29 on: April 05, 2016, 10:16:33 PM »
Very interesting, YH.  So..opening up logs on the WM is just a small part of what you do huh
Boy, back in my day..

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #30 on: April 05, 2016, 11:07:54 PM »
Very interesting, YH.  So..opening up logs on the WM is just a small part of what you do huh

Yes, everything from cutting logs from our own farm, me buying and trucking logs from anyone who has high enough quality, sawing them, stacking the lumber, air drying, running 3 kilns (really 2 1/2), planing (and outsourcing a good bit of that, I hate planing :D), trimming boards, restocking shelves, and of course the retail sales on Saturdays where we routinely have people drive from hundreds of miles and many states away.  We saw for the sole purpose of keeping our kilns full, as we can't produce enough lumber to keep up with demand.  I try to control every phase of the operation, and it starts with good logs and a sawmill. 
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Offline tule peak timber

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #31 on: April 06, 2016, 09:34:51 AM »
Cool ! :)
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Offline thechknhwk

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #32 on: April 06, 2016, 11:42:45 AM »
I'm green with envy as I'm in the middle of processing 12' pieces of ash into 1500 sq ft of hardwood flooring for my upstairs.  My first straight edge is with a makita track saw then I'll run the other side thru the table saw.

Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #33 on: April 07, 2016, 06:50:22 AM »
Thanks for the info.
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
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Offline OneWithWood

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #34 on: April 07, 2016, 11:12:08 AM »
I'm green with envy as I'm in the middle of processing 12' pieces of ash into 1500 sq ft of hardwood flooring for my upstairs.  My first straight edge is with a makita track saw then I'll run the other side thru the table saw.

If you joint one edge you will not need the track saw. 
I am assuming you have a jointer to set up for the planer.
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Offline thechknhwk

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #35 on: April 07, 2016, 06:50:21 PM »
I know it is not the proper way to truly flatten boards, but I plane them all first.  The track saw is way faster than the jointer for getting the first straight edge.

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #36 on: April 11, 2016, 11:43:56 PM »
This weekend we were running the planer and the SLR at the same time, making lots of chips.  It was cold and dry outside, which is great for building up static electricity and after a short time I started hearing a loud "pop."  It sounded just like an electric fence arc, and sure enough, up in the corner of the barn, right where the plastic dust collector pipe takes a bend pretty close to a metal wire tie, I see about an inch long blue flame spark crackle across the gap.  A few minutes more, I see it again.  I'd always heard that plastic dust collector pipe could lead to sparks, but....  Good news is that I'm very careful about not letting sawdust build up on the rafters, so there was nothing to spark into a fire. 

So today I spent a good deal of the evening replacing the plastic pipe with metal.  Here it is about midway through the process. 
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Offline jueston

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #37 on: April 12, 2016, 08:50:30 AM »
there are those who believe you can ground an insulator(plastic) by wrapping wire around it and grounding the wire...

my personal experience has convinced me to just use metal pipe since plastic always always always shocks me....

and my hair looks better laying flat then spiky from the static anyways....  :)

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Straight Line Rip Saw Choices
« Reply #38 on: April 15, 2016, 07:18:46 AM »
All dust collectors should have A dust collector braded grounding wire KIT.
This wire goes inside the plastic pipe...

 

 

 

 

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