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Author Topic: Darra James table saw  (Read 2656 times)

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Offline yukon cornelius

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Darra James table saw
« on: April 17, 2016, 08:37:12 AM »
I was auctioning yesterday and came home with a big darra James cabinet saw, a 12 inch craftsman band saw and a radial arm saw. It is in nice shape but needs a bit of fence work. I have my plan to get it back in line. I have been unable to locate a model number. It came with a 10" blade but looks like a 12 will easily fit. I read of a 3\4" arbor on them. Does anyone know of a 1" to 3\4" arbor bushing for a 12" blade? Can a 10 inch blade be safely drilled from5/8 to 3\4"? 

 
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Offline Magicman

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2016, 08:51:51 AM »
I tried kinda unsuccessfully drilling out a 5" blade.  :-\

My thoughts are that you might be more successful reaming out the hole rather than drilling.
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Offline yukon cornelius

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2016, 08:55:45 AM »
Not a bad idea! That may be more successful
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Offline Kbeitz

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Offline yukon cornelius

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2016, 09:27:09 AM »
I never even considered having them drill one. I can get stuck on box store availability some times.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Offline dnalley

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2016, 12:26:28 PM »
You won't get a round hole with a drill bit.  Better have it bored.

Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2016, 12:37:04 PM »
Would a step drill or unibit work?
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Offline dnalley

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2016, 12:47:09 PM »
Don't know what a uni bit is but a drill just doesn't make a truly round hole.  Looks good till you really give it a close look.  Sometimes looks sorta triangular shaped if you really look it over.  I would hope for a closer tolerance for a blade running on an arbor.  Just my opinion.

Offline Savannahdan

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2016, 02:24:25 PM »
Here's a site with some manuals published for that company:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=240&tab=3&sort=2&th=false&fl=
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Offline yukon cornelius

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2016, 09:56:38 AM »
Yesterday I reamed out a 10" blade and put it to work. I ended up swapping wings from one side to the other for a wider cut. With a bit of reworking on the fence this will be a huge upgrade. The far end of the fence was missing some parts and had some homebrew repair that I don't care for so I am redoing it. Next I want to add more to the table to have at least 48 inches of cutting surface.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Offline ozarkgem

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2016, 05:16:31 AM »
Blades are pretty hard metal. Boring with a carbide cutter would work. I don't think a unibit will hold up. Glad you scored big at the auction.
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Offline hackberry jake

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Re: Darra James table saw
« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2016, 08:33:22 PM »
I also have a 12" table saw with a 3/4" arbor. I usually use 10" blades that have been cut from 5/8" hole to 3/4". The best way is to use a milling machine with a rotary table. Perfectly round and perfectly centered. Send yours to me and I'll mill em and send em back. You could also use shaper bushings to bush a 1" blade down to 3/4".There might even be something that'll work in that molding head set I sent you.

Never mind. There's nothing that goes up to 1" in those sets.
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