sawmill from ground up

[metalshaper]

Finally have a few free moments between farm chores, and making a living, to get going on my steam powered sawmill.  Last fall there was a lot of earth moving to make way for everything.   Also cleared a very large area for log storage.  Not great at posting photos but will try to include a few with some comments on what is going on.  This first photo is of some sandblasted parts.  Not sure if anyone remembers but I am installing a Lane mill powered by a steam engine.  More to follow. 

[metalshaper]

Some photos of what I am going to sit the husk on.   I do a lot of metal fabrication and while this is a bit over kill I had it laying around so figured I would use it.  18" I beam left over from another project. 

[metalshaper]

[metalshaper]

Digging for the footings.  Had a bunch of plastic barrels that I normally keep pig and chicken food in, but when they get worn out they make great concrete forms.  I cut the bottom out and use them like the cardboard concrete tubes.  I needed an 18" diameter and these barrels are 20" in diameter so they will work out perfect.

[metalshaper]

I know everything looks like a disaster right now but give me some time and it will all make sense.  Since I have some very long timber on my property and have access to more I am going to make a large area to load logs onto the carriage.  More of the 18" I beam to the rescue.  This beam is going to allow a 40' opening where logs are loaded. 

[metalshaper]

I believe you can never have too much space.  This is looking out from the mill area to my almost finished log storage area.  When I get more time and am further along I will add more photos.  have the steam engine almost fully stripped and will move on to sandblasting and painting that sometime this summer.  And if time allows I will have the building underway to keep everything out of the elements.  More to follow. 

[Ga Mtn Man]

Looks like you've made a great start on an exciting project.  I'm looking forward to following along.

[plowboyswr]

 :P

[thecfarm]

Looking forward to some more progress!!!

[Ox]

This is an exciting project!  Thanks for letting us all tag along.

[ozarkgem]

any pics of the steam engine?

[btulloh]

Very interesting project!  I'm looking forward to following your progress.  That is quite an undertaking.

I think it's great that you are preserving a piece of history.  Good luck.

(Here are a couple links to a steam powered mill here in Richmond VA you may find interesting.  I never get tired of seeing it in action. )
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHEADDBnHtc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHUMsblyNws

[metalshaper]

Here is a photo of steam engine from moving day. 

[metalshaper]

[metalshaper]

[metalshaper]

The engine is now free and turning freely.  All babbitt bearings are in perfect shape.  I have stripped off all of the piping and am re plumbing the entire unit with the correct fittings and pipe.   Sandblasting and painting are hopefully on schedule for this summer at some point.  Will post photos of progress as it happens. 

[Kbeitz]

Wow.... That thing needs wheels...

[Ox]

That is a beautiful monstrosity of epic proportions.

[Ljohnsaw]

 :P

[Picky2016]

Wholly jeeps, that's old school! Will be watching.

[metalshaper]

yes it sure does need wheels.  I have been searching for some for a long time but just can't seem to come up with any.  Farquhar made this steam engine in portable, meaning with wheels, and what they called a sill boiler.  This is the sill boiler but it has all the mounts for wheels.  If I don't find wheels I will just drag it into place and set on some concrete sills.  More to follow.

[Kbeitz]

Penns cave in Pa. has a sale every June and that would be the best place to find large wheels
for steam engines.

http://www.nittanyantique.org/spring.php

[ozarkgem]

That is the coolest sawmill project I have ever seen. Wish you were closer. I would like to help on it.

[Mooseherder]

Our Husk frames will be cousins. ;)


  

 

[metalshaper]

more work on the sawmill build.  Long way to go before I start making sawdust but this is where time spent on setup will pay off in the long run.  still working on getting my husk platform setup.  Photos to follow.  footings finally finished.


   

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

Legs getting welded to main husk frame. 

[metalshaper]

 

 

finish welded, and primed with my favorite primer....Red Lead. 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

Carefully setting it on the footings.  the guy near the transit is my buddy Bill.  He is the guy I got the sawmill from and he is helping me in the reassembly of it. 

[metalshaper]

 

  

 

After careful pouring of the footings, precision cutting of the legs, and gently setting it down on the steel plates, a quick check with the transit shows the entire husk from is less than 1/32" out of level. 

[metalshaper]

 

 

Welding the legs to the 12"x12" steel plates.  Since I was going to be in the dirt for this part of the project I decided to get out the suitcase wire feeder and run some flux core wire, instead of stick welding with 7018. 

[metalshaper]

 

 

finished welding and getting ready to prime.  Rain on the way so I need to get some primer to the fresh sandblasted plates. 

[metalshaper]

 

 

More red lead and plenty of time to spare before the rain.  This is where the project is at the current time.  Husk is in great shape and that will be getting installed next.  At the same time I am going to be pouring footings for the building that will cover the entire mill.   Since I am not sawing yet I am putting out some feelers to see if there is anybody local to me that might be interested in doing some sawing so I can get the roof over this project. 

[tnaz]

Thanks for all the pictures, looking Pretty DanG good.  8)

Keep up the good work,

Terry

[fishfighter]

That is one heck of a project. Way to cool.

[Ox]

Within a 1/32"?  That's amazing to me.  Guess we're a little more crude around here.  :D

Awesome project and thanks for taking the time to share the pictures with all of us.

[sealark37]

Somebody is going to sweat their socks wet feeding that steam boiler!     Regards, Clark

[metalshaper]

still making slow but steady progress on the sawmill build.  Summer temperatures are in the 90's for the next seven days so early morning is the only time to get things done.  This morning I decided to move the husk onto its final resting place.  some photos of the move.   

 

[metalshaper]

This 210 john deere  backhoe can easily lift 3000 pounds and load a dump truck all day.  This cast iron husk really made it struggle to get the job done.  Not the fanciest pick, but it balanced good and made the trip out back without any trouble.   

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

Glad I made the base as heavy as I did.  Husk is nearing its final home.

[metalshaper]

 

 

Was able to get some help from my wife, Maria today.  She has summer time off and I am always able to get a helping hand when I need it.  Sure does make jobs like this go much more smoothly. 

[metalshaper]

 

 

Husk is sitting solid on the base.  Not in exact position yet but easy to move so I can mark some holes and drill for some bolts to hold it down.   

[tnaz]

Looking good from Fl..  Can't wait to see it making lumber. :D 8)

[SineWave]

Wow, what a great project. Looking forward to following progress.

I was just up to the annual show at the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association in Easton, MD. They've got some great steam engines there.

Will you need to have that boiler and/or engine inspected by ASME or whoever, and also have a licensed operating engineer to run it? What pressure steam does it call for?

[fishfighter]

Progress. Love it. Thanks for sharing.

[metalshaper]

Here in Connecticut and other states you can run your steam engine for your own use with no inspection or license.  If you want to run it while there are other people watching then you have to have a yearly inspection.  In my area there is a push to get all the old boilers out of service.  I am going to have a pressure test and inspection when the time comes.  The boiler I have is a 150 psi unit.  I have talked with other steam sawyers and they usually run anywhere from 75 to 100 psi. 

[Kbeitz]

At one time I did boiler testing...
I still got the hydro pump somewhere.

[metalshaper]

Hello again everyone,
still making progress on the Lane #1 sawmill project.  busy summer but I am back at it and just took delivery of 8200 pounds of steel to replace my rotten carriage, set beam, and any other wooden parts.  Photos coming as soon as I can get my temper mental camera working again.  I am in the process of trying to scare up some racking as I am extending the length of my carriage by 10 feet.  If anybody is out there with any spare Lane #1 rack and pinion parts please contact me.  Cold weather has moved in but that gives me time in the shop to fabricate all the parts I need.  Will post photos as thing happen.  Until then I am on the lookout for parts........ help!!1

[richhiway]

Looks great.

[bandmiller2]

Shaper, you have an ambitious project. Years ago there must have been an AB Farquar dealer in Ct. I bought one in Colchester from Willie Zagray years ago. Mine was on wheels no engine, I swapped  a stationary steam engine for an Ajax engine that was the right size to mount on the boiler 8 1/2X 11" I ran my sawmill with it summers diesel winters, for obvious reasons. I hydro tested to 160lbs and ran at 80psi to be conservative. To do a good job on oak you need 100psi or more. They were 150psi boilers in their youth but now their pushing 100 years old. Keep us updated. Frank C.

[jeep534]

My buddy and I have been discussing doing just this.  we are cheering you on from the cheep seats.

Happy Hunting
archie

[thecfarm]

Progress you are a making!!!!

[bandmiller2]

Shaper, when you set up your boiler be sure to leave enough space under the firebox so you can remove the ash box and crawl into the firebox to replace tubes unless your thin enough to crawl through the door. Most likely you have 2" tubes, I became quite adept at replacing them but my ears would ring for days. Frank C.

[1-2 Tree]

Man we don't have many steam engines in east Texas. I work for a company that builds boiler burners the 2 older gentlemen I work for have over a 100 years boiler experience .We have converted a lot of boilers from coal to natural gas I have helped on many boilers in the last 12 years. I own a bandmill but some day I would love to own a steam powered sawmill. One of our engineers converted the steam train at 6 Flags to gas fired in 1967 it was a smaller scale locomotive that was used by a sawmill in Louisiana in the early 1900s. Most the hydros  I have witnessed a are ran at 1.5 times the operating pressures I would love to see the engine run please post some pictures of the feed water system. You can rent the tools to swedge  the tubes depending on the condition of the boiler sheet sometime you still have to weld them because they will leak. Good luck   

[metalshaper]

My boiler is in great shape, tubes, tube sheet, etc...  I am missing my injectors, and will be re plumbing all external pipes as the last owner didn't use schedule 80 or better fittings.  There is very little time on this boiler/engine because it was just a backup unit for a sawmill, and the original unit never wore out.  In the 80's it was hydro tested and put in use for a very short period of time.  It ran great and the two guys who ran it are both good friends of mine.  I will post photos as I make progress. 

[metalshaper]

Bandmiller, thanks for the tips, and if you have any more please keep them coming. this is my first major sawmill setup and I am open to any ideas from people who have done it before me. Building my carriage, set beam, and all track this winter if time allows.  working with 40' long steel sections and they do get a bit tricky to move around.  Lots of drilling to do but in the end I think the steel will be better than wood.  Most of the original mill is so rotten that as I take it apart it goes into the wood stove.  Thanks again for the tips.
Brian

[bandmiller2]

Brian, consider yourself lucky to find a boiler in good shape. they usually rust out in the front smoke box due to corrosive products dripping down the stack. My old boiler had thinning of the staybolts over the crown sheet. There is a formula to figure their strength by measuring the thinnest part it figured out to 100psi safe but I'am a little more conservative hence 80psi working pressure. I burned pine slabs, there is enough energy in a logs waste to mill the log into lumber. I ran my mill with diesel in the winter as wood will not keep the boiler warm all night And getting up in the middle of the night gets old fast. I think if you burned coal and banked the fire it would hold through the night. You will find your boiler will hold about 250 gallons of water to the gauge line. Frank C.

[metalshaper]

thanks again for the tips.  The firebox on this boiler is so big i was thinking it would keep warm thru the winter with no problem.  Looks like I can probably get a 1/4 cord of wood in there.  Might have to think of coal also as I don't have a diesel engine for a backup.  Any idea how much water you go thru if you are sawing for a day??  I have a 2000 gallon tank that I am going to bury in the ground, and I am going to dig a shallow well in a wet area to keep it fed with water.  Just wondering how much water I am going to need for a good day of sawing. 
Brian

[bandmiller2]

Brian, not really sure how much water I used and I seldom cut for more than half a day. I had a 30 gallon barrel to feed a Metropolitan Injector and a hose to replenish the barrel. Depending on your water supply you may need to add chemicals to the feed water. Most of our water is slightly acetic I added a little soda ash to neutralize it. Over night I don't think you would have trouble with the boiler proper freezing but some of the external pipes could fall prey. Keep your eyes peeled for old steam engineering books nothing modern will be much help. Terrell Croft power plant series or Audel boiler books are very helpful. Frank C.

[metalshaper]

thanks again Frank,
I have just about every Audel book ever printed and have a good grasp on the steam end of things.  Just wondering about real life experience when it comes to water use.  I guess I will find out when I start sawing.  I am building a roof over the sawmill and putting the steam engine on the upper level of the sawmill pad.  May close it in with some walls to keep some heat in during the winter.  Long way to go before I am at that stage but always planning. 

[Kbeitz]

thanks again Frank,
I have just about every Audel book ever printed and have a good grasp on the steam end of things.  Just wondering about real life experience when it comes to water use.  I guess I will find out when I start sawing.  I am building a roof over the sawmill and putting the steam engine on the upper level of the sawmill pad.  May close it in with some walls to keep some heat in during the winter.  Long way to go before I am at that stage but always planning.

I would have no less than three pumps to get water into your
boiler.  If a pump fails you could be in big trouble.
I'm looking into buying another boiler and engine this week.

[Gearbox]

I don't know if it has been asked . What are you going to use for water ? In our old Avery we use water from our local power plant . Our city water has lime added to make it taste better . IF you are going  to use well water have it lab tested or if you have a power plant near they may test it for you . We just did flues in the Avery $ 12,000 it had to be done by a boiler company .2 guys for a week .

[Gearbox]

We go through 4,000 gal of water in a 3 day show with 1 40 - 80 avery and 2 small 30 hp engines . I would look at some kind of recycle if you can get by without inducing draft with steam exit into the stack .

[metalshaper]

Thanks for all the replies.  I do plan on having at least 3 feed water systems in place to keep myself out of trouble. 
I do plan on digging a shallow well to supply water for the boiler.  Here on the farm, our house well was drilled, but shallow by standards.  Not exactly sure how deep but previous owner says 60 feet.  Perfect water and no system added for anything.  Have a shallow well on the property that was hand dug and stone lined a looooong time ago.  I use that well in the barn and have hydrants to all the fields for watering the animals.  Again, perfect water, have it tested every year.  A bit high in tannin because it is in a swampy area.  By the sawmill pad I am going to dig down as far as the excavator will go and line with stone and put in some concrete well tiles.  Once I have water back there I will have it tested.  Not exactly sure what the best water is to run in a boiler, where does the PH need to be?   What would perfect water test like?  Any help would be appreciated.   thanks for giving me an idea of water use for your Avery, it sure does help knowing how much water other people go thru. 

[Kbeitz]

Thanks for all the replies.  I do plan on having at least 3 feed water systems in place to keep myself out of trouble. 
I do plan on digging a shallow well to supply water for the boiler.  Here on the farm, our house well was drilled, but shallow by standards.  Not exactly sure how deep but previous owner says 60 feet.  Perfect water and no system added for anything.  Have a shallow well on the property that was hand dug and stone lined a looooong time ago.  I use that well in the barn and have hydrants to all the fields for watering the animals.  Again, perfect water, have it tested every year.  A bit high in tannin because it is in a swampy area.  By the sawmill pad I am going to dig down as far as the excavator will go and line with stone and put in some concrete well tiles.  Once I have water back there I will have it tested.  Not exactly sure what the best water is to run in a boiler, where does the PH need to be?   What would perfect water test like?  Any help would be appreciated.   thanks for giving me an idea of water use for your Avery, it sure does help knowing how much water other people go thru.

Between  7.5 and 8.5. PH

[bandmiller2]

Brian, I'am going to ramble on a little. When you set up your mill have what I call a spring floor that is boards that have some spring under foot. In our part of the world you don't want to stand on the cold ground in the winter. I have found that its handy to have the top of the mill knees  about the same height as your pant pockets or finger height with your arm by your side. That height keeps you from bending down dogging and undogging the headblocks. Its also much safer some mills have the arbor the same height as where the sawyer stands, that makes it too easy to trip and fall into the saw. If the top of the husk is just below waist height it acts like a railing. You will need a fireman when your under steam I've tried it sawyer, off bearer, and fireman alone, doesn't work out well and production tanks. Frank C.

[metalshaper]

Frank, I always like it when you ramble on so keep it coming.  As you can see from the photos earlier in this post I have the husk sitting on a steel foundation.  From that point I am going to raise/lower the ground on each side to get the height that I want.  From the operator side of the husk I was thinking of about hip height, which would be comfortable to run the saw and dog the log down.  On the other side I was planning on doing just what you describe, waist height so it makes it easier to off load the lumber.  I recently got a Porter slash saw that I plan on setting up to make cutting the slash lumber into suitable size to feed the boiler.  I am planning on a 3 man set up when I get running.  Trouble is my "crew" consists of an 85 year old guy who is a steam wizard,and a 78 year old guy who I got the mill from.  I am going as fast as I can so they can both see the mill in action.  The guy I got it from set it up over 20 years ago, ran the steam engine, but never sawed a log with it.  I sure hope I can get it running soon while they are both still in good health.  As always thank you for the continued input. 

[bandmiller2]

Brian, you are better off with a sill style boiler for your sawmill, mine had wheels, and their a pain to line up. Once lined up you are loathed to move it anyways. On wheels you will have a problem of the boiler rocking and the flat belt flapping and waving, which to some extent affects your arbor and saw. Once the boiler starts rocking the water starts sloshing and everything is moving. The only cure is to bolt a beam from the top of the rear wheel to the bottom of the front wheels. I got a chuckle when you mentioned the Lane #1 husk being heavy, I have the same husk and it was all my old JD 60 with 45W loader and forks wanted to lift. My mill is a" Chase Da Lane" a Chase mill and a Lane husk. Most of the time I fed the boiler with the Metropolitan injector, also had a cute little Warren duplex steam pump and lastly I could feed the boiler direct from city main pressure. Injectors are interesting devices but don't like to work if their too hot. Most of the problems are caused by a leaky check valve after the injector. Frank C.

[metalshaper]

Trying to get a link out to a youtube video here.  Today I am forging some bolts for the Lane sawmill.  There are a few other videos out there showing the mill progress, but most are of me fabricating parts and restoring an old Willys Jeep. 
Enjoy.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjj10DtiLYO

[metalshaper]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjjl0DtiLYO
having some trouble with the link.  maybe this will work.

[metalshaper]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjjI0DtiLY0
Maybe the third time will work.  Hope it shows up this time. Sorry for problems, with link.

[47sawdust]

In an older post you  were looking for Lane sawmill parts.LWI metalworks in Morrisville Vermont has some parts and also fabricates parts for Lane sawmills.

[metalshaper]

thanks for the note, I did talk to John over at LWI a while ago and was able to get the final piece I needed for the mill build.  Needed one more piece of set rack and he had it for a reasonable price.  Shipped it out right away.  Good guys to deal with if anyone else needs Lane parts. 

[moodnacreek]

What a project. Are you going to have to get up steam to test the mill? Does the lane have babbet  bearings? I have 2 0ld cat power units that are serviceable. They came off my mill when I went electric and no one wants them. Also have a set of steel racks and pinons  new. Doug

[Gearbox]

Back to the water lime is a killer when it is heated it turns to slack lime . That is what eats the flues .

[bandmiller2]

I'am not a boiler chemist but there are two boiler water problems first is water with crusting minerals in it that deposit on tubes and fireboxes and hamper heat flow. Second is water that wants to dissolve boiler metal, eat away and corrode. Up here in the northeast we have good water but it tends to be acid. My own boiler I would treat the water with soda ash until neutral Ph. As important is to blow down the boiler occasionally to remove sediment from the bottom. Frank C.

[metalshaper]

I have a Willys Jeep with flat belt pulley on it that I plan on testing the mill with before there is steam hooked up.  The lane does have babbitt bearings but most in great shape.  I do a lot of babbitt pouring on old machinery that I rebuild so there is no problem pouring new bearings if necessary.  I am hoping to run dual power to the mill, steam for most of the time and a diesel powered stationary engine for when the weather gets real cold and I am worried about not sawing enough to keep the boiler warm.   Still looking for parts and powerplants, so if you have any photos that would be great. 

[metalshaper]

Lucky for me that I have a lot of steam guys in the area, and a great water supply.  I am planning on putting in a dedicated well for the sawmill very close to where the steam engine will be sitting.  Water quality is perfect so hopefully it will keep the sediment to a minimum.  Thanks to everybody for contributing to the thread, always good to get another opinion on things.

[moodnacreek]

Metal shaper,    Can't do photos at this time.  The engines are: A 1949 318 cat [around 100 h.p. when new]  pony start on steel skids radiator thru clutch ready to use. And a 13000 154 h.p. about the same only not been run in a few years. It ran good but slobered some [wet exhaust]. They do this from not being kept in time. I have the specs.  I am located in Cornwall  N.Y. [west shore Hudson river rt. 84 nearby.  Doug      p.s. really love your project.

[metalshaper]

thanks for the info.  you can contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net if that is easier for you.  I will be in touch when I get a free moment.  thanks again.
Brian

[metalshaper]

Hello Everyone,
Finally have a few moments to work on the sawmill again.   Farm chores, regular paying jobs, etc.... have all kept me from making a lot of progress.   I have the carriage completed but the photos didn't work for some reason.   Working on the setworks right now and am short a couple of small items.  Hopefully somebody has some Lane #1 setworks parts laying around that they want to sell.   Anyway here are some photos of the progress, and I have set a time frame of this fall to be sawing.  I don't think I will have the building finished but I am hoping to have everything done to allow logs to be sawed when the weather gets a little cooler.   

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

A little more free time today to dedicate to the sawmill.  Carriage and setworks finally going together.   

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[metalshaper]

 

 

[moodnacreek]

Forget your project?    So good to see you posting again.  Looks like a rack drive.  I have the iron from a no. 1 chase rack and chair style w/o notched set wheel.  Is your set wheel notched?  Also have setworks parts from a no.2 lane.  Doug           p.s. just bought a ford ww 2 jeep.

[metalshaper]

Yes, my Lane is a rack and pinion drive.  I really had to beat the bushes to get all the rack gear I needed for my carriage.  40' long on the drive side.  28' set beam.  Not sure what you mean about a notched set gear.  I will check if you can explain better.  I just got all the setworks finished today.  Had numerous shafts and gears but nothing worked out where I laid things out and there wasn't a good way to get 10' shafts in my lathe.  Cut the shafts, sleeved them and welded them out.  Been a long time but the set beam is finally moving on the carriage !!!  Now I just have to get 90' of beams welded together, foundations poured under the legs, and all the wheels installed. 
Good news on the GPW Jeep.  Don't know if you are aware but I have been a Jeep restorer for over 30 years.  Working on a bunch of Willys right now in the shop.  If you go to the youtube site and type in metalshaper you should get right to my channel.  Have some sawmill stuff on my youtube site as well. 

[moodnacreek]

From your photos it looks like notches on the set wheel. Look at the raised rim and there should be a notch every 5 teeth that does nothing. I think all lanes had them and it was part of the patent at one time. Later all the new England sawmills copied this feature. It is said lane invented the ratcheting set works. Before that it was screw set works. Any how when you get all the bugs out and start to saw you will be so glad you got a lane. These notches indicate a starting point saw down to a last board size without doing the math. It's a cheater system lane invented.  The jeep is a junker  that runs and drives well.  Hope to come over some day,Doug

[moodnacreek]

  Just reread your post about the length of rack gear.  Wire rope drive replaced rack and pinion except on real long mills, must of been the cable sag issue. I also was told that ship yards used these long mills and used a special under floor double friction feed. the regular set up would have a 1sm  6" friction and belt gig. The option to that was the glover feed [a big box that set on top of the husk] and later the lane centery feed, about the same as glover.  I remember the old timers, when I got a lane saying: now your sawing by the notches.  Of course I didn't know what they ment.  Ask the old boys over your way about sawing with the notches.  [or contact me]     Doug