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Author Topic: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?  (Read 3405 times)

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Offline Sixacresand

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #20 on: September 02, 2016, 10:39:35 AM »
I scrape/sticker right off the mill right onto pallets.  If applying boron, spray and flip individual boards on the stack. 

Online btulloh

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2016, 08:25:18 PM »
I used some of your suggestions today 4x4 and had good results.  Thanks for that detail.  I had tried the forks with lumber in a bunch of different orientations to the pallet, but never end to end.  End to end is the ticket.  My back feels better tonight.

Seems like I should have figured that out, but that's why the FF is so great.
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Offline 4x4American

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2016, 11:09:24 PM »
Hey glad I had something I could offer!  Have gotten many good ideas from here, any time I can add something I try to!
Boy, back in my day..

Offline 4x4American

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2016, 11:16:55 PM »
WDH are the concrete piers poured on top of the ground?
They look like it in the pic.
And the net hanging, Is that to catch lumber fiying around? :D :D ;)

Yes Sir.  Formed with 1" x 4" boards and re-bar .  4" thick slabs.  Working great.  I don't have any lumber fiying around  :D


Must be nice not having to worry about frost heaves!  8) 8) :( :o ;D
Boy, back in my day..

Offline WDH

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #24 on: September 03, 2016, 07:13:49 AM »
Yep, no frost heaves here. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5640SU, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline drobertson

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #25 on: September 03, 2016, 07:38:45 AM »
No doubt fans are required!!! I have several stacks outside becoming fuzz covered! No way to fan these, its just been so humid that fresh sawn pine has no chance without air flow.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #26 on: September 03, 2016, 07:49:51 AM »
My stacks are a long way from electricity.  I've been ok without fans so far, but it always seems right on the edge of trouble.  I use some dark green roofing metal to cover stacks and maybe it generates a little convection.  Getting as much sawdust off the lumber helps.  Trouble is, there's no way to really get all the sawdust off the juicy pine.
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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #27 on: September 03, 2016, 07:54:15 AM »
Because I can only saw a fairly small amount in a single day, I could make better stacks if I accumulated 2 or 3 days sawing before I made my stacks.  That's the main reason I would like to dead stack off the mill.  It seems too risky though.  Re-stickering doesn't appeal to me, so I just have to deal with it as best I can.
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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #28 on: September 03, 2016, 07:56:27 AM »
I scrape/sticker right off the mill right onto pallets.  If applying boron, spray and flip individual boards on the stack.

Put a trough in for the borate. You'll find its quicker to dunk the board in the solution then stack then it is to spray, flip, spray again. You get total coverage every time. And it'll wash the sawdust off as well. Just sayin'
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

Online btulloh

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #29 on: September 03, 2016, 08:00:06 AM »
Are you using the same mix rate in the dip tank as for spraying?
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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #30 on: September 03, 2016, 05:55:38 PM »
Are you using the same mix rate in the dip tank as for spraying?

My mix rate is 3 bags borax : 2 bags boric acid : 500 liters of water.

Bags are standard 20 kg / 40 lb bags and 500 liters is about 130 US gallons - that'll give a (approximate) 15% solution.

Split 40 gal drums welded together makes for a good cheap trough to get you going, but you really want it on a stand to save bending over. A swimming pool cleaning scoop thingy is good for removing sawdust from the trough as required.
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

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Re: How long can I dead-stack pine before stickering?
« Reply #31 on: September 03, 2016, 07:32:35 PM »
I'm about to toss in $0.02 worth of general advice on how to run a sawmill profitably.

Don't double handle anything more then you have to.

Every time you pick up a board it's costing you time, and time is money. If it's got to get hit with borax and stipped out then don't dead stack it, because that means you handle the board off the mill into a dead stack, then you handle it off the dead stack, then you handle it to dedust, then you handle it to spray, then you handle it again to spray the other side, then you handle it to strip it out. So you've touched that board 6 times before its left the green mill, and more if it requires resawing for grade and/or docking.

Conversely, it could go mill, trough, pack. Sometimes what seems like the fastest workflow ain't, is what I'm saying. I work with at least one guy behind me to dock/dip/ stack most the time which is more efficient. If I was mostly working alone I'd put in a bigger trough to handle a decent logs worth of output. Saw log, boards to trough, stack, saw next log... or something like that.

And build yourself a racking frame, the topics been discussed here:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,86803.0.html

Saves a lot of time wasted arguing with stickers. Again it's about working efficiently, and not having to double handle stuff. Time gained on the back end of the mill means more time to saw. There's an old saying here about production mills goes "You can't eat faster then you can *hit", and regardless of mill size it's true. Too often people buy a bigger, faster mill and get no more production because they disregard the unglamorous stuff on the backend, conversely if you get it right you'll increase production and quality ( lack of stain etc) for far less cost.

Mostly in this business it's not the guy who sweats the most or spends the mostwho wins, it's the guy with the highest output per gallon of sweat and dollar invested IMHO
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.


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