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Author Topic: NEW Central Boiler Install  (Read 4576 times)

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Offline DMcCoy

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #20 on: December 19, 2016, 07:16:51 AM »
I'm not seeing flow control valves or zone valves.

Offline ibbob

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #21 on: December 19, 2016, 09:43:52 AM »
Switch the red and blue at the thermo pex and you'll have it right.  Hot has to go in the top of the side arm to make it work
Bob

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #22 on: December 19, 2016, 12:22:29 PM »


 
this is how the waterheater coil is plumbed now
I am waiting for the plumber that did the crawl space work to come back and fix his mistake.
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #23 on: January 10, 2017, 02:53:25 PM »
the outside temps have been around +18 to +38. one load of madrone wood, 22 inch long, in the CB-750 has lasted FOUR days. the inside temp is +72
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Offline coxy

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #24 on: January 10, 2017, 07:43:55 PM »
Switch the red and blue at the thermo pex and you'll have it right.  Hot has to go in the top of the side arm to make it work
I looked at that 4 times and couldn't figure out what didn't look right :)  I have my hot water hooked up on the return loop to keep it a little cooler I run my old owb at 200 for my base board my new used owb I can only set it at 195  :(  I'm to cheap/lazy to put a mixing valve in

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2017, 12:41:14 PM »
the next load of madrone lasted SIX DAYS at similar temps.

the plumber has not fixed his mistake yet because of our need for heat.
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Offline trapper

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #26 on: January 14, 2017, 10:42:49 PM »
My hot goes in from the bottom of the sidearm and we have had all the hot water we could use for the last 12 years.
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Offline petefrom bearswamp

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #27 on: March 25, 2017, 10:24:34 AM »
Off the subject a little bit.
Any problems with the shark bite connectors?
I used them on my classic, but the water level kept dropping.
No leaks in the firebox and I determined that the connectors were weeping slightly, and th ewater was generally evaporating due to the heat so it was not readily evident.
I changed to automotive heater hose and conventional clamps and solved the problem.
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #28 on: March 25, 2017, 11:51:48 AM »
no leaks, the water level has remained the same.
 
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Offline overclocking

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #29 on: March 25, 2017, 02:55:09 PM »
Switch the red and blue at the thermo pex and you'll have it right.  Hot has to go in the top of the side arm to make it work

His is correct. The hot goes into the bottom first, it warms the cooler water that has settled on the bottom of the tank and causes it to rise, which starts the siphon.  I have seen it both ways, but the way he has it is how CB recommends they are hooked up for correct siphon to take place.

 

 

Quote
Off the subject a little bit.
Any problems with the shark bite connectors?
I used them on my classic, but the water level kept dropping.
No leaks in the firebox and I determined that the connectors were weeping slightly, and th ewater was generally evaporating due to the heat so it was not readily evident.
I changed to automotive heater hose and conventional clamps and solved the problem.

The shark-bites shouldn't leak ever, if they do then the pipe was scratched and the O-ring never sealed. They use them here for new residential houses, like $500k houses and they even put them in the walls. I haven't seen one leak that was prepped right. Aside from that I have probably 20 or more on my system and so far I only had a problem with one, and it was old and was exposed to muriatic acid when I was cleaning the exchanger. Its possible your problem was a scratch or out of round pipe. The plastic insert might not have been used as well if it was leaking on pex.



How has the edge been as far as cleaning and clogging up? I imagine it spends most of its day at idle given the load.

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #30 on: June 29, 2017, 01:27:16 PM »
How has the edge been as far as cleaning and clogging up? I imagine it spends most of its day at idle given the load.

you are correct, the CB spends most of its time in idle which causes the fire to go out.

for end-of-season cleaning i let the CB water temp drop to under 100 degrees, then loaded DRY wood to create a hot fire to crystallize the creosote buildup, thus making it easier to clean.

will be making my own scraping bar since the one from CB comes in two sections that do not fit together correctly causing the joint to wobble. also the bar is HEAVY.

 
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Offline boilerman101

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #31 on: June 30, 2017, 12:21:57 AM »
DDW evidently as a new CB gasser owner you are still trying to figure things out. For starters the hoe that came with your furnace is a compression fit so you need to pound the 2 sections together on a slab of concrete (what I used). They will snug up so tight that you will never get them apart and the joint section certainly will not wobble. I find it works well to scrape the sidewalls and corners. I can't help you with the you think it is heavy comment. After putting up more wood it will get lighter  :D. Even if you have a light heat load and furnace idles a lot it should never go out if you adjust the air pulse feature. I set the Firestar controller on my E2400 for a 50 sec air pulse happening every 15 or 20 minutes and it never goes out. Give that a try. I read in your previous posts you are trying to load firebox for days, that is not recommended when running gassers as it will build a lot of excess creosote inside firebox. I've found that less is more and creates less maintenance issues. I also get much hotter reaction chamber temps and can control coal bed depth easier. I typically get reaction chamber temps of 1,100 - 1,400 degrees. Shoot for 1-3" of coals over air charge tube. Did you put the XP wifi monitoring device on your Edge? I would not be without it and you can learn a lot from the recorded charts.

Offline Logging logginglogging

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #32 on: July 11, 2017, 09:48:26 AM »
Even with my old boiler, I found loading light produced a hot cleaner fire. I had no air pulsing features, it simply kicked on the blower when temps got low enough. With good wood it never went out, in fact I had shoveled out hot red coals into a bucket, cleaned the boiler and replaced the coals with some dry wood, and it would take right off without even restarting a fire. I imagine I will hit a learning curve with my new boiler as I did with my first one as well.

Offline kvacresfarm

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #33 on: November 09, 2018, 11:53:22 AM »
I am getting ready to install a Central boiler at our place and I had some questions about the downdraft furnace system. We are living in a single wide with a downdraft furnace just like yours. Return air wall filter on top, a-coil on top, then the blower, then the electric furnace guts. The a-coil has a drain pan which is plastic. Should I be putting the heat-exchanger between the a-coil and the blower, or on top of it? I didn't see an a-coil in the original post. 

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #34 on: November 09, 2018, 12:23:53 PM »
we do not have AC in our home, just heat.

electric furnace before heating coil







heating coil added with silicon glue  


 


added plywood to make the air go through the heating coil before it goes into the blower



 

 


the area above the electric furnace is just an empty box.
this box "fills" with hot air when the blower is not blowing.
thus providing instant hot air when required.
and provides a passive radiant heat.


Multitek 1610EZ, TimberKing 2000 & Talon Sharpener,
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #35 on: November 09, 2018, 12:54:16 PM »
Maybe a sheet metal shop could come up with a solution for your situation?

stacking coils on top of each other will restrict air flow

A = blower
B = OWB heating coil
C = Air conditioner coil
D = drip pan
E =solid baffle to direct air flow through either the heat or AC coil

move baffle E from AC coil slot to OWB coil slot
 


 
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Offline kvacresfarm

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #36 on: November 09, 2018, 01:54:43 PM »
Problem is that it's a triangular a-coil and not a typical rectangular exchanger. Without purchasing a new exchanger for the a/c side, I don't think your baffled setup would work. I've read of folks raising their unit and putting the exchanger on the bottom of the furnace, but that might not work well. 

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #37 on: November 09, 2018, 06:49:47 PM »
Problem is that it's a triangular a-coil and not a typical rectangular exchanger. Without purchasing a new exchanger for the a/c side, I don't think your baffled setup would work. I've read of folks raising their unit and putting the exchanger on the bottom of the furnace, but that might not work well.
talk to Central boiler, or the person that sold it to you.
second choice is an AC installer.
Good Luck.
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Offline boilerman101

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #38 on: November 10, 2018, 01:46:07 PM »
The Central Boiler site and owners install manuals have many diagram drawings of various furnace install applications on it. If you have a downdraft furnace there is a drawing that shows mounting the hot water exchanger between the blower fan and air coil which makes sense. The A-coil could not risk freeze up the water exhanger in the summer months when water is not moving that way. Most water to air coils do not create much air flow resistance so I would not worry about greatly reduced duct airflow. I've found the CB install diagrams to be very helpful and they work when followed.

Offline E Yoder

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Re: NEW Central Boiler Install
« Reply #39 on: November 12, 2018, 04:25:59 AM »
We put water coils under the A coil quite often in double-wides. If it freezes up its probably low in refrigerant.
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