Ready to buy an EZ Boardwalk JR

[arkvet]

and I'm looking for some advice on the specifics of what I will need.

Let me start by giving some background info.  I'm a veterinarian with too many hobbies.  Woodworking is something I love but it will always remain simply a side hobby.  I'm kind of one of those jack of all trades guys.  During our recent home renovation I built a huge maple butcher block top and also a walnut counter top for our bonus/media room.  I've made most of my woodwork out of reclaimed wood including two full size dining room tables that turned out amazing.  I have made all sorts of smaller tables, and misc stuff.

I'm ready to go the next level and be able to use my own trees.  I live on 130 acres of land (~100 acres of timber).  Plenty of mature pine and mature Oak species with all sorts of other species mixed in.

On the agenda is a large tree house (ever watch tree house masters?) in the back yard.  I also have a big stack of large black walnut logs that I cut a couple years back that I've been wanting to mill...

OK so you've got a little idea of me. I live in northeast Arkansas and have researched mills to the best of my ability and have pretty much decided the EZ boardwalk Jr would be a great fit.  They're not too far from me so getting one wouldn't be a problem.  I have not been able to find anything negative about them on the web. 

My questions are mainly concerning all the options surrounding the investment.

My purchase list so far goes like this:

1- Junior Sawmill - $4300
2- Junior Trailer Package - $400
3- Timberwolf blades - $240 (figured 10 would be a good start)
4- 5' extension to get the log length out to 16-17' if I even needed it.
5- 48" Log Rite Cant Hook- ~$100

The potential purchases are:

1- Log Turner - $225
2- Lap siding & Shingle Attachment - $725

What I'd like to know is does this look like a reasonable need/wish list for a hobby miller?  How useful is the Log Turner and the siding / shingle attachment?  Is the Trailer package really handy?  I really figure the mill will sit in the same spot all the time but to be able to haul it to be used somewhere else seems really nice.

I have a john deere 4300 with a FEL and was planning to get some clamp on forks to really help with the log handling. 

I am really excited to finally be able to mill some of my own lumber.  I know it won't take but just a few projects (+ sweat equity) to pay for the mill. 

[Magicman]

First, Welcome to the Forestry Forum, arkvet.  There are several very satisfied BW owners and previous owners here and I have never heard a bad review from any of them.  Get every option (bell and whistle) for the sawmill that is offered.  They do much more than make noise.   ;D

If you plan to have your blades professionally resharpened, be sure to buy from a blade manufacturer/seller that also resharpens blades.  For example because of the profile, Wood-Mizer only resharpens their own blades.

[arkvet]

Thanks for the reply!  Since you brought up blades... Let me ask this. As a hobby mill guy am I probably better off to buy several blades and send them off to be sharpened like you mentioned?  When is owning a sharpener worth it?  I would figure you'd have to mill quite a bit before sharpening your own blades would be both cost effective and worth the hassle. I was thinking buy 10 blades and send off for sharpening when I'm down to my last couple. This is just my initial thoughts, before even knowing what to expect as for blade lifespan.

[capt dick]

I have what you are thinking about buying. Wonderful people to do business With. The one thing that I think you left out is spend an extra $ 250 and get the electric start option. I got mine with the pull start and have since changed to electric and is much easyer to use.

[tnaz]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Arkvet, and good luck with that new mill.  Sounds like you will be busy for a while when you get it.

Terry

[tmarch]

I would question the bucket forks for moving logs.  If your tractor has a 3 point I'd find a bale fork for it and use that.  That will keep the weight where it's needed on the tractor, and make it safer to use.  Bucket forks might be fine for moving lumber and small logs, but a green log of any size can be HEAVY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, arkvet & capt dick

[arkvet]

I would question the bucket forks for moving logs.  If your tractor has a 3 point I'd find a bale fork for it and use that.  That will keep the weight where it's needed on the tractor, and make it safer to use.  Bucket forks might be fine for moving lumber and small logs, but a green log of any size can be HEAVY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks.  I know the bucket forks will have their limitations.  I've got many hours on my little john deere and have carried many large round bales with the FEL and have a good grasp for what it can handle.  My bales average 1,000-1,500 lbs.  That capacity can handle a lot of logs I'd be milling.  For the bigger ones I already have a 3 point cherry picker that I've used several times to move around larger logs and huge utility poles for fencing projects.  I may have to invest in a 3 point bale fork if the cherry picker doesn't work out for getting logs onto the mill.  The whole single attachment point / spin / tilt issue...  Yeah I can see the circus already.  ;D

[wvwoodbutcher]

Welcome to the forum arkvet.
    Overall I am pleased with my EZ Boardwalk Jr. I bought mine in april of 2015 and  have sawn several MBF with it.  Between what I've sold and sawn for myself it has paid for itself several times over.
    I mill strictly as a hobby, sawing for neighbors and my own personal use.
I did not purchase the log turner or the lap siding and shingle attachment.
I did get a five foot extension and the trailer package. I have done a few mobile jobs and the trailer package has to be removed before sawing, which isn't too bad but setup takes a little while since my jr didn't include leveling feet(I ended up adding these). The trailer package is nice if you have to move the mill, but I would rather leave mine set up stationary.
    One of these days I plan to upgrade to a woodmizer with hydraulics. But right now for me, the EZ Boardwalk Jr does everything I need it to do.
    Good luck with your decision.

[arkvet]

I have what you are thinking about buying. Wonderful people to do business With. The one thing that I think you left out is spend an extra $ 250 and get the electric start option. I got mine with the pull start and have since changed to electric and is much easyer to use.

This recommendation comes at somewhat of a surprise to me.  The reason I didn't include it had very little to do with cost actually.  I just figured a well cared for Honda engine should be pretty easy to start... and how often are you starting / stopping it?  I would think I'd start it and not turn it off until finished with a log or maybe even logs.  Can it not sit and idle while not in use?  I admit I don't know the normal operating procedure.  Intrigued, and thanks for the suggestion!

[fishfighter]

As a hobby mill, you will be starting and stopping it a lot.

Blades, I think the going price to resharpen is around $7 to $8 apiece.  I been buying Kasco blades which work great on my Woodland 126, shipped, price for 15 blades was $250. What, $13 apiece.

You will hit metal, be it a nail or backstop, it's going to happen as it had to all of us. That blade will be toast. :D

I go thru a blade at about 500 BF of lumber. So, at what point to buy a sharpener? For me, I'm still buying new blades. Once I get about 100 blades, then I will look to buy a sharpener. Got around 30 now in a year and a half.

[arkvet]

Thanks everyone. This is really helpful. This bandsaw mill endeavor will be a totally new thing for me and I really appreciate the advice.

[samandothers]

Welcome to the FF.

I have a manual mill (Woodmizer) and added the log deck package which includes a turner and ability to winch a log up ramps to the deck.   I have used both as my front end loader with grapple has met logs it could not lift up to the deck.  The turner has been a back saver on big logs/cants that I could not turn with my Logrite cant hook, my short comings not the hook's.  So I'd vote for the log turner addition. 

Good luck with your decisions!

[Magicman]

Given your hobby status, I absolutely would use a sharpening service.

[WDH]

You need two boxes of blades.  When one box gets used up, you can send them off for resharpening and you can keep sawing with the second box of blades. 

With a manual mill, go with the 60" Logrite cant hook versus the 48" if you only have one.  The 60" will allow you to turn bigger logs, and believe me, you will be needing to turn some big logs.

[wvwoodbutcher]

Mine is a pull start and starts on the first pull. If the blade's not spinning I let it idle. Some days I start it up in the morning and don't shut her down till a blade change or time to refuel.
Also, it has a guard to prevent the blade from cutting into clamps/backstops, which can be lifted by a cable and pulley from the operator side to avoid knots and such...unfortunately it doesn't protect you from buried nails. :D

[jaygtree]

i have an ezbwjr with 5' extension and trailer package and found that is all i need. i keep my mill in one place and am a hobby miller sawing mostly red oak. i relieve the tension on my blade a lot, every break and at nite and have had to replace the tensioning ''t'' handle. i have put in a grease fitting to keep the handle well lubed. ask stanton if there is an upgrade on that and get it. well built, heavy duty and very well thought out engineered mill. go with 60'' cant hook. i struggle with large logs with my 48'' hook.   jg

[boscojmb]

I like the design of the EZ Boardwalk, It looks like a well built mill.

I have a few thoughts on the options you are considering.

The log turner will hold the log while you clamp / dog it. This will give you added safety. I would get it. I have had a few close calls while trying to hold the log with a peavy in one hand and clamp with the other.

The siding attachment is a bolt on / clamp on devise that can be purchased at any time. If your only making siding for your tree house you can make tapered clapboards by alternately adding then removing plywood shims under the cant. I might put that money toward an option that is difficult or expensive to add later like a bigger engine or power feed.

The trailer package looks like it can be added at any time, and looks like it uses low speed lawnmower tires.
To move the mill using the trailer option you have to jack it up, bolt on the axle, move it with an ATV / Tractor, jack it up again, unbolt, and remove the axle before you can use it. I think the bed extension would need to be transported separately.  I would consider using this money for options that are difficult to add later.

The bed extension is bolt on and can be added later. I would get it anyway. It looks inexpensive to buy compared to paying LTL freight later. Even if you don't need it, it gives you extra room so that the log does not have to be loaded perfectly on the mill.

I hope this helps,

John B

[Doug Wis]

     I would add a shorter cant hook, especially if you go with the advice of others here to get to 60". I have a 24" in addition  to a bigger one. Many times the small one does the job and is a lot handier to use then the big one.  Might as well buy it now cause I can tell you are hooked on the smell of fresh sawdust.

[justallan1]

I have the EZ jr. and really like it. Stanton is a great guy and makes a bullet proof mill. These mills are solid iron and surely meant to last forever.
When I bought mine there was a mistake in shipping and I ended up with everything but the log turner. To do again I would go with everything I got except the trailer package. Although I have only pulled it around the yard a bit with my 4-wheeler, I feel the mill is top heavy for that narrow of a trailer and just feels to tippy. To take it up on the mountain I would take off the trailer package and put the mill on my flatbed. This is just my opinion and like I said, I haven't pulled it on uneven ground so I actually don't know.
I've used the Timber Wolf blades that they recommend and then switched to Kasco and can't tell the difference other than Kasco blades are about $10 cheaper each. I would definitely recommend taking a look at a resharp service whoever you buy blades from.
I bought the 60" Log-Rite cant hook and feel it's easily worth every penny I paid for it. I may be mistaken, but it seems that you can get them from EZ Boardwalk also, so you save on shipping possibly.
If you are close enough it might save you a few bucks to pick it up yourself and get a walk-around to pick up any pointers that Stanton and his people can give you.
Hope that helps a little. Feel free to PM me with any questions you may have. That way my phone will notify me.

[Downstream]

I bought my EZjr last December with the Honda 13hp and it has worked very well from day 1.  I was a few hours away so called and they had one ready for pick up so my daughter and I hooked up the trailer and headed over.  Enjoyed meeting everyone there and they had me loaded in about 5 minutes.  The Jr is designed to be pick up in one piece using a lifting lug on the top of the head unit frame.  I did not get the trailer kit because Im going to stay stationary for my own hobby milling mostly.  I can easily put the unit up on my trailer if I want to go off site.  Get the log turner for sure because this is the hardest part of operating the mill.  I did not but will be ordering one very soon.  I would also get a longer logrite cant hook because once again everyone is not kidding when they tell you that moving/turning logs if by far the hardest part with a manual mill.  I bought the same box of blades and so far they have worked well on everything I have milled including oak, walnut, pine, butternut.  As far as starting goes the honda always starts first or second pull initially and then first pull on restart.  I do mostly live edge so once log is set up I can just keep going without shutting off.  If I'm doing dimensional lumber then shut off periodically when turning logs.  Another thought would be to buy an additonal log clamp if you want to mill shorts like 4 to 5 footers because normal spacing will be too far apart for shorter logs.  The holes are already drilled in the frame at the plant.

Another trick is to just slightly slope unit downhill when leveling to eliminate most of pushing effort.  just to test out the marketing I was able to push the unit through a 20" oak log with one finger(brand new blade) although would not recommend other than once just to say you did it.

I make rustic log and slab benches, tables,etc for myself and sell to others via word of mouth and my hobby usage has fully paid for the mill already in 6 months.  I am currently sold out with a few bench orders in the que.  Word will get out that you have a mill so be prepared to field requests to mill for others.  I have turned down about 6 requests so far.  If I had to do it all over again I would purchase the same unit plus log turner for a great manual mill setup with reasonable costs.

[Ga Mtn Man]

I don't see the "log turner" on their website.   ???

[arkvet]

I don't see the "log turner" on their website.   ???

Me neither.  I've been searching hard to find what it looks like.  If its a manual boat winch design I might consider fabricating my own using an electric winch.  It's just a thought. Of the many pictures I can find online I haven't found one that shows the log turner (at least that I can tell).  The only place I find it on their web site is in the price list.

**** Edit- I knew I'd seen it somewhere.  On their home page for the web site there is a model 40 picture (top of page) that appears to have the log turner on it.  I guess it hinges out of the way after turning and I assume the Jr log turner is similar in design???

Anyone out there have the log turner on the JR and have a picture?

[arkvet]

I just called and placed my order for the JR!

Taking into consideration all the great advice here were my choices.

- JR Sawmill
- 5' extension
- Log Turner
- Log Rite Cants - 3' and 5'

That's it.  I passed on the trailer package as I just don't see me hauling it around much at all... and if I do I have a 16' flatbed trailer that my little John Deere can easily put it on.  I also passed on the electric start.  I know it sounds handy but the simplicity of pull start is nice too.  I hated to think of messing with a battery.  I also passed on the shingle jig.  I will make my own makeshift jig for the very limited time I'd use one.  Lastly I passed on the Timberwolf blades and will take a look at the other options that I'm hearing are equally as good at a more economical price point.

I'm going to use some of the $ I saved on the unnecessary options and invest in some additional log handling tools for my tractor.  Rather than the clamp on forks for my FEL I am looking at the quick attach forks that are more robust and will bring the log(s) closer and more securely towards the FEL.  I'll also get some skidding tongs to complement my 3 pt cherry picker. 

I'm scheduled to pick up the mill October 7th at a Farm show in Springfield Missouri which is a little closer for me than driving up to their home north of St Louis.

Excited!

I can't thank you guys enough!   

[justallan1]

You won't regret it at all.
I would agree with Downstream on getting yourself an extra log clamp. Even if you aren't sawing short logs, sometimes it's just more convenient having clamps in several spots. Turns out most logs aren't utility pole straight and having the option of clamping at different spots could certainly make things a bunch easier. I guarantee after you move a few logs up or down your bunks so your clamp can find a good spot to bite you'll be thinking you should have got one.

[arkvet]

You won't regret it at all.
I would agree with Downstream on getting yourself an extra log clamp. Even if you aren't sawing short logs, sometimes it's just more convenient having clamps in several spots. Turns out most logs aren't utility pole straight and having the option of clamping at different spots could certainly make things a bunch easier. I guarantee after you move a few logs up or down your bunks so your clamp can find a good spot to bite you'll be thinking you should have got one.

Thanks for the reminder!  I made the addition of the extra clamp:) 

[thecfarm]

How many HP is that tractor? Maybe 30? If so,that is a little small to be caring many 16 foor logs a foot and a half across. Yes,it might do it,but any little small hole that front tire drops into will change things fast.
I bought a manual mill without the trailer package too. Never once wanted to move it,never planned on moving it either. I bring the logs to the mill. I have the mill so when I push on the head,I am facing the house. I can see someone coming that way.
You will like sawing!!!!

[arkvet]

How many HP is that tractor? Maybe 30? If so,that is a little small to be caring many 16 foor logs a foot and a half across. Yes,it might do it,but any little small hole that front tire drops into will change things fast.
I bought a manual mill without the trailer package too. Never once wanted to move it,never planned on moving it either. I bring the logs to the mill. I have the mill so when I push on the head,I am facing the house. I can see someone coming that way.
You will like sawing!!!!

Yes it's a 30 HP due to it being hydrostatic.  The manual trans model is 32 HP.

I have tons of experience using the FEL.  I've pushed it to it's limits on a regular basis and find that the tractors hydraulic pressure is often the limiting factor for the FEL.  I've moved many half ton + hay bales with the FEL and have real firm idea of what it's capabilities are.  My plan is to use the FEL (with pallet fork attachment) for all the logs it can handle.  Any that are too much for the FEL will get moved with a 3pt cherry picker and grapple / chains.  I loaded the 24" diameter x 12' Walnut logs this way.  I am beyond excited about cutting those up.  I'm thinking some 2"+ slabs from the middle... Live edge on one side and square up the other... two mirrored slabs joined in the middle... Dining room table that would nearly pay for the mill...  but my wife will want to keep it of course:)

[arkvet]

Well, after several weeks of waiting I was able to meet up with the good folks at EZ boardwalk and pick up my mill.  I'm thrilled with it so far.  The engineering looks to be excellent.  It's very heavy duty and the operation is very straight forward.  I've temporarily set it up in one of the few relatively flat areas on my property (I live on the side of very large sloping hill).  Once I get a feel for how I am going to be working around it I'll figure out a more permanent home for it and build a nice shed for it.

Here are a couple pictures I took the day we tried it out.  My little boy was fascinated by it!  He is a train fanatic and he swears up and down that it's a train!  He said "DADDY, Look it has tracks!!!"

and don't worry guys.  He's no where near the mill when moving logs or in use.

OK so I'm having some trouble adding pictures.  Getting the run around with this "album stuff".  I'll try to figure it out later when I have some more time.

[brianb88]

Following this thread with interest. I look forward to seeing pics of your mill.

[thecfarm]

Andrew looks happy with it.



 

[thecfarm]

This is how a picture is added to a post.

I like to go to whatever post or start a new topic first to include a picture.Go to your gallery,it will open in a new window.Click onto your album,then click onto whatever picture you want,it will get bigger,than scroll down a little to find,Insert Image In Post,click onto that,click Yes and that is it. Some have to copy/paste the link to work.I like to hit the enter key at least once or twice to move the picture down away from what I am typing. The enter key really helps to leave some white space if posting more than one picture or posting a comment. Use the preview button to see how it looks and modify it if needed.

[arkvet]

Thanks for the tips on posting pics I will give it another try tomorrow when I'm back at my computer.

In the pic that you can see I haven't even added the 5' extension. I figured I'd just wait until I actually needed it or until it was in a more permanent location, whichever came first.

The first walnut log I cut up turned out perfect. Exactly 1" thick all the way down.  I took the advice that I've read on here many times and it was to be sure the track was very level.  I was able to accomplish this with ease by using my dewalt laser level. I set it up a few inches higher than the top of the track and turned it on. Then measured down to the track in each corner. I set it up for a 1" downhill slope which I hope will help move the mill along while cutting.  Anyone without a laser lever should take a look. They're a handy little tool. I originally bought it when I was finishing a set of stairs in my house. Made baluster positioning easy.

Now I've got to make some stickers and get this stack of walnut logs cut up. While it's air drying I'll have to work on the shed for the mill. Oh and then the solar kiln. Lol

Thanks again everyone! 

[thecfarm]

I would take 2 logs,I sawed the top of mine to make them flat,smooth. Run them the opposite way the track is,and a few inches higher than your rails.Keep the 2 logs away from your mill,leave enough room to walk through.Put your logs on them and roll them on with a peavey/cant dog. I use a piece of flat ¼ metal,4 inches wide by about 2 feet long to get them from the log bed,the 2 logs,onto the mill. No mill likes heavy equipment around them.  Some have even made a hinge to close the gap between the mill and bed.You could even cut a notch out of the end of the log,make it kinda long,and put a 2X4 or 6 in there to close the gap.

[WDH]

The first walnut log I cut up turned out perfect. Exactly 1" thick all the way down. 

Nice mill.  You might consider cutting your walnut at 1 1/8" thick instead of 1" thick.  1 1/8" is the standard for the hardwood industry.  I believe that 1" is too thin for such a high value furniture grade wood like walnut.  I know that you are anxious to get sawing.

[arkvet]

The first walnut log I cut up turned out perfect. Exactly 1" thick all the way down. 

Nice mill.  You might consider cutting your walnut at 1 1/8" thick instead of 1" thick.  1 1/8" is the standard for the hardwood industry.  I believe that 1" is too thin for such a high value furniture grade wood like walnut.  I know that you are anxious to get sawing.

Thanks. Will do. I only cut the one log. I plan to use some of this walnut as is (rough cut) which is why I made them 1". I will definitely cut the majority at 1 1/8".

[sandpig]

I just bought a used EZ Boardwalk Jr a few months ago I have enjoyed the mill so far.  I am very new and have a lot to learn.  The guy I bought it from made some modifications to the bed.  I will have to work on fixing the bed to hold the logs on the bed when your turn the logs.  I would say that is the only area I wish they would improve for this mill. 

Good Luck enjoy and let me know if I can be of any help.