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Author Topic: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing  (Read 22392 times)

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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #220 on: December 05, 2017, 08:48:36 AM »
It definitely looks different.
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #221 on: December 05, 2017, 09:01:44 AM »
I have had customers rave over nail/metal stained lumber, and especially the actual metal.  They used it where the metal/stain would be their badge of honor or trophy. 
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Offline Resonator

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #222 on: December 05, 2017, 09:08:01 AM »
When life gives you lemons, make lemonade. (Old saying).
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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #223 on: December 05, 2017, 09:39:46 AM »
Does the stain continue up out the top end of the log?  If so, the metal was up higher.  If not, have you tried your metal detector (not your blade, ;) ) yet to see if you can find it now?
John Sawicky

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Offline POSTON WIDEHEAD

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #224 on: December 05, 2017, 05:49:07 PM »
I have had customers rave over nail/metal stained lumber, and especially the actual metal.  They used it where the metal/stain would be their badge of honor or trophy.

I have a bucket full of Trophies.  ;D
Where's the Spoon?

Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #225 on: December 05, 2017, 06:10:15 PM »
Whatever it is, is invisible to my detector...now and before. Maybe I need a new one. However, I always confirm it's working by putting it to my pocket of keys or something and it starts squawking.  :-\

Maybe I need to market it as "Metal Meets Wood: The Showdown" or call it "Peace Era Hardwoods" (no mention of which one) and maybe a bearded dude with a flannel shirt,uncomfortably tight jeans, a MacBook Pro, a Carmel Mocha Orange Zest free-trade coffee and a pocket full of organic cashews with want it.  :D
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
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Offline alan gage

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #226 on: December 06, 2017, 09:30:51 AM »
I was cutting down some oak trees a few weeks ago and one had heavy iron stain in the butt. It was about 140 years old and the stain looked to be within the first 40 years of its life. The tree was long dead and pretty cracked up so I decided to use it as firewood rather than save it for the sawmill. Started bucking it up and splitting the rounds to see what had caused the stain. All I was able to find was a sliver of a nail that was left. Almost rusted completely away.

Alan
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #227 on: December 06, 2017, 02:34:27 PM »
I opened one up last week that from the size it obviously had been a small nail, but was now only black powder.
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Offline xlogger

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #228 on: December 08, 2017, 04:36:22 AM »
I've just started sawing some lately. Looked over this post several times and agree its slow the way in the video on here did it. But that's the way I did one yesterday and got some nice boards. Question is that I don't have an edger and rrqs might be faster on sawing but how much time again do you have to put in it on edging? Not sure it was worth it. I was planning on getting an edger last year but decided on getting a slabber saw. Still looking for an used one in my area but no luck so far.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #229 on: December 08, 2017, 05:28:25 AM »
For me, it would be rough w/o an edger or straight-line rip. As a matter of fact, an edger has made ALL of my sawing easier and faster since I really dislike edging on the mill. I can edge a whole day's worth of sawing in less than an hour with someone offloading to stacking.

However, a qsawn board full of flecks is worth a LOT more in my market, so it's worth is to take the extra time and/or labor to make it. I've considering making a "set" or "bundle" of material that is same-tree with the qsawn material featured, but some lesser, perhaps rift sawn lesser boards part of it for rails/stiles, etc. Same-tree sets have a lot of appeal in my market, especially exceptional material.
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
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Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #230 on: December 11, 2017, 07:39:22 AM »
Well, in the way of an update, the 2nd half of my metal-infested white oak seems to be producing better stuff. However, I think this log is cursed: Had to cut off the flare with my saw and it fell on my toe (yes, I need steel toes NOW), 1/2 fell off the mill when trying to turn it, broke a blade, until finally I shut'er down for the day...had a bourbon and decided to regroup at a later time.

The wide RRQSawn is looking good, allowing 2-3 boards before needing to roll, take a wedge and cut again.
Some of it is getting really pink when the air hits it.







I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Baker Portable Edger with Kubota Diesel
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln

Offline WDH

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #231 on: December 11, 2017, 07:52:20 AM »
All my white oak pinks up, too.
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #232 on: December 11, 2017, 08:00:11 AM »
Hope your foot is OK.  The wood looks great.  If your are turning big halves toward the backstops, move the head about midway down the carriage, so it blocks the cant from rolling off.
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #233 on: December 11, 2017, 08:01:39 AM »
All my white oak pinks up, too.
Its interesting it turns pink, so does my sycamore, which will sometimes turn very red.
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Offline nativewolf

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #234 on: December 11, 2017, 08:01:50 AM »
Well, in the way of an update, the 2nd half of my metal-infested white oak seems to be producing better stuff. However, I think this log is cursed: Had to cut off the flare with my saw and it fell on my toe (yes, I need steel toes NOW), 1/2 fell off the mill when trying to turn it, broke a blade, until finally I shut'er down for the day...had a bourbon and decided to regroup at a later time.

The wide RRQSawn is looking good, allowing 2-3 boards before needing to roll, take a wedge and cut again.
Some of it is getting really pink when the air hits it.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Try a pair of boots with composite toe protection, they are much warmer.  Based on several threads on this forum I bought a pair of Haix and after a bit of wear in they are doing really well right now.  Others make composite as well.  Just one more instance of this forum really helping out, I have cold feet and am a bit clumsy so I was looking for the best boots possible.
Liking Walnut

Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #235 on: December 11, 2017, 08:03:28 AM »
Never thought of that. Great idea. I seems to be having issues of the back edge (toward the uprights) sticking out too far at times and getting the carriage hung-up. This causes a HUGE pita as I have to back out of the cut. Am I doing it wrong?  :-\
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Baker Portable Edger with Kubota Diesel
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln

Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #236 on: December 11, 2017, 08:05:34 AM »
Thanks for the tip. Seems to be on ongoing curse. Over the summer, dropped a HUGE flitch on my toe...will spare the details. Then, just was it was healing...did similar.
Last week, was unhitching my plow off the UTV and dropped the blade edge on the other toe. :(
Steel toes are gonna be my new friend!  :D :D
Well, in the way of an update, the 2nd half of my metal-infested white oak seems to be producing better stuff. However, I think this log is cursed: Had to cut off the flare with my saw and it fell on my toe (yes, I need steel toes NOW), 1/2 fell off the mill when trying to turn it, broke a blade, until finally I shut'er down for the day...had a bourbon and decided to regroup at a later time.

The wide RRQSawn is looking good, allowing 2-3 boards before needing to roll, take a wedge and cut again.
Some of it is getting really pink when the air hits it.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Try a pair of boots with composite toe protection, they are much warmer.  Based on several threads on this forum I bought a pair of Haix and after a bit of wear in they are doing really well right now.  Others make composite as well.  Just one more instance of this forum really helping out, I have cold feet and am a bit clumsy so I was looking for the best boots possible.
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Baker Portable Edger with Kubota Diesel
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #237 on: December 11, 2017, 08:15:22 AM »
Never thought of that. Great idea. I seems to be having issues of the back edge (toward the uprights) sticking out too far at times and getting the carriage hung-up. This causes a HUGE pita as I have to back out of the cut. Am I doing it wrong?  :-\
You can also forward roll the half log, with the high back edge set up toward the idler wheel, and lower edge against the backstops.  You can get a little more clearance that way.
HobbyHardwoodAlabama.com

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #238 on: January 27, 2018, 08:48:44 PM »
This is my 2nd try at RRQS and since I have a non-hydraulic mill I have taken a slightly different approach. The frequent reverse turning as developed by YH proved too labor intensive on a manual mill so here's what I came up with:
As usual I octagonalize the log and cut 2 to 3 full width boards from the middle leaving 2 almost half logs. Remove 1 half log and saw the other one in large wedges - usually 3 of them. (The log I am working on now is 7.5 ft long and 28 dia so the wedges are fairly easy to relocate to the end of the mill where they are out of the way.) I then have 1 wedge to manipulate which is faster (and safer) than the half log. I am extremely pleased with the ray fleck I got even though the pics don't reveal it very well. If I get good fleck on 1 side I am happy and I usually get dramatic rift pattern on the other. So it is win - win to me. I am a happy camper.
Bob

Below shows the boom loader/turner in reverse roll mode and a come-along which I use to pull the log back to the squaring arms
 

 

Below shows blocks fastened with c-clamps on the operator side to keep the log from sliding.
 

 

Below shows adjustable stops on the back side to hold the log in place so the cableing can be removed.
 

 

Below - making the first wedge cut. (Ignore the upright sq arms. pic taken out of sequence)
 

 

Below, making the 2nd wedge cut. Looks pretty precarious like a one arm hand stand but it stays stable even for much smaller pieces (fingers crossed)
 

 

Last 2 pics are some results. Much better in life than in the pics.
 

 

 

 
Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing
« Reply #239 on: January 27, 2018, 09:12:42 PM »
Looks mighty fine from here and I see nothing wrong with your approach.  If it works, it works.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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