Building a Kiln Part 4 Building Construction Updated video..

[123maxbars]

I have decided to take a very ambitious step and document via youtube my entire process of how I build the chamber, and installing my new Kiln.  This is the first video that I produced today showing how I took delivery of the kiln and my reason for obtaining it. Through the wisdom of the FF member and the people at Nyle I believe I have a good game plan on how to build the chamber and hope the video will help people like myself in the future when building a kiln.  This is the first video in a series of many. I will update this thread/post every-time I post a new video showing my progress. 

 

[YellowHammer]

Great start, looking forward to watching the progress. 
Remember it is very useful t install additional fans on the fan deck, and I'd also recommend cutting a hole in the bottom to increase kiln airflow, and to prevent dead spots.

[123maxbars]

Great start, looking forward to watching the progress. 
Remember it is very useful t install additional fans on the fan deck, and I'd also recommend cutting a hole in the bottom to increase kiln airflow, and to prevent dead spots.

Buy more fans from Nyle?

[YellowHammer]

I went straight to the manufacturer, Mechatronics.  Actually, the fans have been high failure items, I have 6 of them, two in the machine, 4 in the fan deck.  I've had to replace most of them over the last several years.  I would look for different alternatives, being aware of the flow rate requirements, trying to match them as well as possible.

When you build the stand and fan deck for the unit, make sure you leave access to the entire right side of the unit.  Sooner or later, you will have to take the right side plate off to reset the high temp limit switch or pull maintenance on the refrigeration system (or replace a fan).  So there are a dozen or so screws that must come out, in order to take the side sheet metal off.   

[WDH]

I also have four additional mechatronics fans to supplement the two in the unit.  Get the ones with the aluminum plate on the back of the fan.  The ones that came with the unit had plastic backs and the screws got loose and wallowed out the plastic causing the fans to fail.  The ones with the aluminum backs have ran for 3 years with no issues.

Cutting an additional intake in the bottom of the unit helped even out the drying from the top to the bottom of the lumber stack immensely and increased moisture removal from the unit a little bit. 

[pine]

Remember it is very useful to install additional fans on the fan deck, and I'd also recommend cutting a hole in the bottom to increase kiln airflow, and to prevent dead spots.

Cutting an additional intake in the bottom of the unit helped even out the drying from the top to the bottom of the lumber stack immensely and increased moisture removal from the unit a little bit.

Two different comments referencing the same thing that I have questions about.

I presume what YH is calling the fan deck is what the Nyle design calls the fan truss or fan truss wall.  If not please correct me.

My confusion is on the statement "cutting a hole in the bottom" and "Cutting an additional intake in the bottom of the unit".
This sounds like the metal plate container that forms the box frame the Nyle unit consists of.  That seems to be a major modification. 
How big a hole?  Any pictures you can share?
Thanks

[ljohnsaw]

 

[YellowHammer]

I got one of the first L-53 units off the line, many years ago, and have run into several performance and design issues that I have discussed with the engineers, and even Don Lewis, President of Nyle.  Some have been addressed, some not so much.

For this style of kiln, the exhaust is directed upward thought the chimney and exits the fans at an angle.  This angular dispersion is intended to direct the dry air upward and sideways, to get a more uniform airflow in the kiln chamber.  Also, Instead of a vertical fan truss or fan wall, this design is more effective with a horizontal fan deck.  Since the unit is designed to flow much less airflow than I like, about 150 fpm though the stack, additional fans will get the air velocity up to a more acceptable level and also clear out stagnant air in the corners of the kiln, which promote mold and wet spots in the wood stack. 

In addition, since this unit generally is used elevated off the ground, on a table of sorts, layers of wood lower than the front intake will not get even airflow, and the kiln chamber will develop a dead spot right under the unit.  In addition, in my opinion, the single filtered opening on the front of the unit is not sufficiently large to optimize airflow over the evaporator coil.  So cutting a large opening in the bottom of the kiln, under the coil, and installing a range cooktop filter, will suck air out of the dead spot under the kiln, and will increase the airflow over the coil and so will condense out more water and make the kiln more effective.

I'm not finding adequate pictures, but WDH took some good ones in his post some time ago. 
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,89585.msg1418731.html#msg1418731

[pine]

I got one of the first L-53 units off the line, many years ago, and have run into several performance and design issues that I have discussed with the engineers, and even Don Lewis, President of Nyle.  Some have been addressed, some not so much.

Thanks
I thought you had a L200 in your kiln not the L 53  now I understand.
Thanks for the link to the other thread.

[123maxbars]

great advice here guys, Thank you.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

Are the fans failing because of a blade coming off, bad bearings, or motor failure?  What diameter fan is involved?

In drying, we often see fan motor failures due to high humidity and high heat.  The motors need special wiring for kiln use. This, of course, makes kiln fan motors expensive.  This is also why many fan motors are mounted outside and then a shaft(s) runs into the kiln.

Bearings fail often because the lube is not correct for the heat, or because the seal lets moisture in.  Check temperature limits for both.

A blade often leaves the shaft because a set screw or other screw came loose.  It is prudent to check the blade fasteners after the first drying cycle or two.  Check with the power off and power locked out.

[YellowHammer]

I got one of the first L-53 units off the line, many years ago, and have run into several performance and design issues that I have discussed with the engineers, and even Don Lewis, President of Nyle.  Some have been addressed, some not so much.

Thanks
I thought you had a L200 in your kiln not the L 53  now I understand.
Thanks for the link to the other thread.

Actually I have three kilns, a Nyle 200, and Nyle 53, and a Va Tech based solar kiln.  All run 24/7, all have their sweet spots, and all make $$, except when they are not running. 

[YellowHammer]

These particular fans resemble large chassis or computer fans.  The hubs of the impellers are plastic, and held by screws, and over time, the plastic gives way and the impellers separate from the fan shaft.  Since the fans are mounted in the kiln unit, and protected by a wire guard, they are not inspectable without dissambling the kiln chassis.  I have talked to both Nyle and Mechatronics about the fans, and Nyle did some sort of failure analysis on them.  Mechatronics, for their part, told me they had stopped carrying that model fan and sold ones with alumiminum impeller hubs.  I do not know Nyle's position on the fans.

[WDH]

I sent one of my failed fans from the L53 unit to Nyle for analysis.  I caught my failure before the blades flew off and tore up anything.  This is because Yellowhammer warned me to check them since his failed and came apart in the unit, destroying the heater coils.  Nyle replaced both of my failed fans that were in the unit.  These  had the plastic hubs.  Even though the kiln unit was out of warranty, Nyle shipped me two more fans at no cost to me.  I replaced the fans in the unit with two of the better fans with the aluminum hubs that I ordered, and they have been fine for several years.  The replacement fans that Nyle sent were of the old plastic hub variety.  There two are mounted in the corners of the chamber for additional air flow, so they are easy to access and check the screws.  I have had to tighten the screws a couple of times when they get a bit loose.  The other two supplemental fans in the chamber have the aluminum hubs, and I have never had to tighten the screws in these. 

I will see if I have a picture of the plastic hubs. 

[Darrel]

Looks like it's going to be an interesting series.  Thanks for sharing.

[123maxbars]

Just finished up Part 2 of this video series. Thanks for you all for the guidance so far as I have been gathering materials for the past few weeks.

[WDH]

Good deal.  Looking forward to the build.

[123maxbars]

Part 3 of this video series. Building the floor for the kiln.

[fishpharmer]

Another good one!

[WDH]

Really well done, Sir.  You really built a fine floor!

[123maxbars]

Really well done, Sir.  You really built a fine floor!

Thanks Danny! Trying to mirror your model! I appreciate the help..

[YellowHammer]

Nice build. 

[123maxbars]

Nice build.

Thanks! your post on here have been a big help. Thanks!

[123maxbars]

This TN Summer heat is rough here in July, having said that me and my dad were able to get the kiln under roof this week and the sheathing applied. I hope this weekend to finish boxing everything and start on the insulation and vents.  My goal is to have it finished by July 31. Here is the next video I have made in this series. This one covers me and my dad building the structure. Also for you guys that have built Nyle L53 Kiln chambers how high did you make the ceiling? Mine is around 8ft 6 on one end due to it being a lean to and I am thinking about doing a small drop ceiling making it around 7ft 10in.

The inside dimensions of my kiln are 10ft deep and 11ft wide.

[123maxbars]

This is the fifth video in my series on building the kiln chamber for my Nyle Kiln, This one covers the insulation of the build.

[WDH]

Fantastic job of insulation.  Wow! 

[rjwoelk]

I am looking at a kiln down the road. What was your cost doing the building not including the concreate pad.  I can get a insulated refer stainless or aluminium shipping container for $7900.00  landed in my yard the only thing is, its 40 ft. One could close off half. Then if in the future open it up to a larger unit. or another 50 if that would work. Would set it up like Yellowhamer did with his tracks and carts.
Great post.

[123maxbars]

I am looking at a kiln down the road. What was your cost doing the building not including the concreate pad.  I can get a insulated refer stainless or aluminium shipping container for $7900.00  landed in my yard the only thing is, its 40 ft. One could close off half. Then if in the future open it up to a larger unit. or another 50 if that would work. Would set it up like Yellowhamer did with his tracks and carts.
Great post.

Mine was built with a wooden floor over top of an existing concrete pad. Not sure on total cost much, I dread adding it up when i am finished.

[123maxbars]

Fantastic job of insulation.  Wow!

Thanks Danny tried to model your kiln,