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Cherry Logs-How Would You Mill Them

Started by clintnelms, April 07, 2017, 03:04:51 PM

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clintnelms

I've got 3 cherry logs that my neighbor gave me a couple weeks ago. I don't want them to sit and rot so I need to mill them up soon. I don't sell lumber so it would be for my use. However right now I'm not sure what I would use them for. So the question is how would you all recommend I saw them. One inch thick, two inch, live edge, or what? They are probably about 12 feet long each. Haven't measured them.

ChugiakTinkerer

Keep in mind I have no experience with cherry, but I'd probably slab them live edge, 2" or thicker based on potential use.  That would give you plenty of flexibility in how you eventually put the wood to use.  Maybe up to 4" if you envision a need for table legs, etc.
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WV Sawmiller

Clint,

   I hope you have sealed the ends good as cherry is really bad to check. If you have a good place to store them they should store well if you get them off the ground. The sap wood may rot but the heart should stay sound.

   I have some I hope to cut tomorrow, weather permitting, and one butt log is similar to the size you describe (shorter though) and I figure to get a 4" live edge fireplace mantel out of the middle and a couple of 2" live edge slabs off the sides. When I actually get it on the mill and can see and calculate better I may even slab the first cuts about 2" thick and make some primitive (Mortise and tenon legs) benches out of them.
Howard Green
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Brad_bb

It depends on what you would potentially make in the future.  If it's me, I cut timberframe braces from the center and the rest of the outside is boards. 
For versatility, I'd slab 3 sides and then flat saw for one live edge.
Most widely used would be 1 inch boards - I'd want the rough sawn boards to be 1.125" at least to end up about 7/8 to 1" planed.  Rough sawn 1.25" if you want to end up at 1" planed.

If you think you could build a table, rough saw some 1.5" to 1.75" depending on how think a top you want to end up with.

Flat sawing after slabbing 3 sides will allow you book matched pieces for table top if you need.  If you don't want the live edge, it's easy enough to cut it on the table saw later.

If you think you'll  build a bench then cut some thicker slabs.  You never said the dia of the logs.

Remember to do a cut on your slabs that will allow you to make some cherry stickers.  I often make them on the table saw.
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clintnelms

Thanks all. Gives me something to think about. No I didn't end seal them. Which I know better. Just been too busy or lazy, whichever you want to call it. Been busy building a new woodshop and kept telling myself I needed to. Probably too late now I assume.

YellowHammer

A good way to get a mix of high quality wood from cherry is to slab heavy to get under the sapwood, then take a 4/4 board to edge later.  Then take a 8/4 live edge slab and rotate 180. Then slab heavy, 4/4 board and then 8/4 slab.  The 4/4 board will be high quality because it's side wood, the slab will be fairly stable because it's taken from the prime part of the log, and far enough from the heart to be stable, but far enough from the sapwood to not bow.  Then rotate 90° and take 4/4 boards down to the pith and do it again from the other side.  The nice thing about this pattern is there are usually only two boards to edge, the first ones before the slabs, and each log will provide two high quality slabs. 
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ToddsPoint

Quote from: clintnelms on April 07, 2017, 09:54:34 PM
Thanks all. Gives me something to think about. No I didn't end seal them. Which I know better. Just been too busy or lazy, whichever you want to call it. Been busy building a new woodshop and kept telling myself I needed to. Probably too late now I assume.

Not too late.  Just go out and cut an inch off the end and seal it.  Gary
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petefrom bearswamp

Cherry doesnt move well here and I have a few mbf of FAS and select 4/4 that has been around a long time now.
Any cherry now gets the live edge slab treatment and is end coated asap
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WDH

One of my least favorite woods to saw because of the infernal pith cracking.  Any board in 4x4 core of the log is probably going to crack.  People will not buy cracked cherry boards.  YH's method is good because it puts those boards from the core in lower value 4/4. 
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Magicman

A pith check is present often enough in Cherry to say "always".  Sawing has to be done parallel to that check to avoid having boards that will split. 
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qbilder

I'm certainly not the majority opinion on the subject, but I quarter saw cherry any chance I get. If the logs are large enough to get fair size quarter sawn cuts, it's worth the trouble. Cherry has a fleck pattern similar to that of sycamore. It sparkles almost like glitter, but can only be seen on the quarter face. As a woodworker myself, that's my preferred but. That cut will also show maximum figure if the log is curly.   
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