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Author Topic: ray fleck  (Read 1486 times)

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Offline PineHill4488

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ray fleck
« on: April 11, 2017, 11:09:05 PM »
I have some red oak that is STUNNING and want to make sure that as I finish it, it will look its best.

Please advise on stain and finish.

Thanks, Greg
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

Offline Sparty

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2017, 01:58:13 AM »
In my experience, q-sawn oak is more forgiving than some other types of figure.  In curly type figure, you are trying to show a deep 3D image on a flat surface.  Oak fleck acts more like little mirrors right on the surface that reflect light.  I would think the main worry would be hiding the fleck behind heavy finish or dark stain (although I've seen dark stain work out well on q-sawn oak).  Common poly schemes can work well and oil/wax schedules look really nice.  Depends if you need dining table type protection or can go with a less protective finish.  Overall, if you have a finish that you are comfortable with, it will probably look nice on your oak.

Offline Bruno of NH

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2017, 08:14:39 AM »
i like linseed oil on oak
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2017, 02:16:42 PM »
For starters, don't use "stain" on quartersawn oak.  Pigment based stains put a layer on top of the wood, not unlike a film on a window.  This layer tends to cover up some of the chatoyance of the lumber and natural beauty of the medullary rays.

Another problem with pigmented stains on red oak is that the pigments collect in the open pores of the lumber, and you can't get them out.  This is why red oak frequently has a "striped" appearance if it is stained.

Instead, if you want to change the color on quartersawn oak, use a dye instead of a stain.  Dye's penetrate into the lumber and change the color from within, instead of leaving a film on the surface.

Personally I like oil finishes on oak, wet sanded about 10 minutes after saturating the wood.

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Offline Larry

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2017, 09:21:11 PM »
Depends on what kind of project you are building.  Kitchen cabinets would typically have a totally different finish than say wood art meant to hang on a wall.

I've gotten away from oil and varnish finishes on oak because I got tired of the yellow hue.  Using a lot of acrylic lacquer and when possible blonde shellac.  The acrylic lacquer is water clear when I look in the can and doesn't yellow with time.

Larry

Nine out of ten trees recommend wood for your building project.

Offline PineHill4488

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2017, 09:47:52 PM »
Gentlemen,

Thanks for your advice, I have some scraps that I will use to execute each of your suggestions and see which one mommacita prefers.

Greg
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

Offline bucknwfl

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2017, 09:58:29 AM »
I have found that danish oil works great for a little darker tint but really prefer just poly. It makes it pop and is as natural look as I can find

Thanks

Buck
If it was easy everybody would be doing it

Offline Joey Grimes

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2017, 11:35:14 PM »
I get frustrated when a customer wants to stain a beautiful wood like cherry or walnut but I'll give them what they think they want .I prefer to pick a wood that you like the natural color and use a clear finish I've recently started using a conversation varnish finish from ml camble it is a very clear finish and very durable.
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Offline WDH

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2017, 07:32:32 AM »
I have never stained walnut or cherry  :).
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Offline low_48

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2017, 11:15:55 PM »
I've had a lot of issues with bleed back when using Danish or Linseed oil on red oak. You have to constantly wipe it for at least an hour. I got to the point that I would use compressed air to blow excess oil out of the pores. But you can still get this little glossy bubble on the surface  the next morning. The advice for dye is very good, and what I use for a clear coat depends on usage. Lacquer or thinned satin poly are my two most often used.

Offline 123maxbars

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Re: ray fleck
« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2017, 04:04:41 PM »
I use waterlox, does great and is easy to apply,


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