Author Topic: Official MS261CM vs 550XP test (Read 67996 times)

HolmenTree · « **Reply #580 on:** November 13, 2018, 06:18:31 PM »

Quote from: HolmenTree on November 13, 2018, 12:05:43 PM

Thanks for the update Bob.
As I mentioned earlier about member CR888 based in Australia. I believe he has been up close on the new 562XP, as I'm not sure if it was a prototype or is already for sale there.
Guys in Australia are so far ahead of anyone when it comes to chainsaws.

Sorry Bob, I meant 550XP. I had just turned my 562XP off before I posted above earlier in the day so was thinking 562

These darn smart phones are too handy and too easy to post on the site while on the worksite.

Spike60 · « **Reply #581 on:** November 14, 2018, 11:47:17 AM »

Maybe these aren't too far off after all.

Got an e-mail from Husky and they are offering us a deal on 550's and 372's; clearing them out for new models?

outinthewood · « **Reply #582 on:** November 14, 2018, 05:20:48 PM »

My understanding is the 550 "mark 2" will be arriving start of '19 ? here in Europe only whats in stock is now available of the "old" 550.
When the 572 was almost here the 576 went off the line up as did the 372 but it reappeared and is still on the line up as is the 365 although it's been replaced by the 565 , I have yet to see a 565 in a dealers !
With regards to the upgrades on the "old" 550, two carbs and three software changes I think. The most important was the cooling slot in '16 on 550,560 562 and as seen on the 572. I did a very short video on my youtube which I found on the 550 with a slotted top cover was 3-4 degrees cooler.
The 550 I found was a good saw and just like the 346 and the Stihl 028,026 it was over used by guys that should of maybe been using the next saw in the line up !

realzed · « **Reply #583 on:** November 17, 2018, 12:12:48 AM »

Quote from: HolmenTree on August 18, 2018, 09:56:40 PM

Well tonight I'm finally doing a muffler mod to my MS261 CM.

Going to keep it simple and only enlarging the exhaust outlet as much as I can to about 50% larger in diameter.
Will put in a larger screen from my 066 saws cut down to fit under the deflector.
The muffler is basically a empty tin can . Theres a small ledge to grind out inside just past the outlet hole.

This is far better then some other examples I've seen of gills on the opposite side of the muffler or holes in the front.
So we'll see how the saw performs on Monday at the jobsite.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Willard - as per your pictures here from back in August when you played around with the muffler.. I found this evening that I don't seem to have a muffler screen/ spark arrestor whichever term applies - on my saw. After a couple of weeks of cutting my shipment of wood, I figured it looked like the weather and my bad hands were shutting me down for the cutting season, and I would clean up the saw and get it ready for some storage and me for some snow blowing instead!.
I was checking everything over while cleaning around the bar, clutch, and chain area, and thought I would take a peek at just how easy it would be if I decided in the Spring to take a shot at playing with the muffler shroud.
I especially thought I too would pull the arrestor screen first and give it a shot to see on my remaining wood just how much it changed the exhaust note and/or added some power - only to be surprised tonight that I don't seem to have one.
The screw and flat plate that the screw threads through to hold it to the body of the muffler are there and in place - but there is no screen itself or anything that makes it appear that it would have been at one time there and broke off (as in rough edges or bits of screen on the edge facing the open exhaust port!
Is it possible Stihl did this on purpose on later models than yours of which mine is one? I somehow doubt this..
Is it possible and/or common for these things to break off due to vibration (the wood is all maple and quite hard and does shake up the saw considerably especially when starting each cut into these logs)..
When I look in under the shrouded area where the screen should be aside from the screw head and solid metal holder, all I see is a drop area into the muffler with a small 1/2'' or so, exhaust port maybe 1/2" or more below the level of where the screen should sit

Any ideas?
I always thought my saw had quite a bark to it from day 1 - like a real sharp well-tuned 2 stroke/dirt bike kind of bark - maybe I now know why!

HolmenTree · « **Reply #584 on:** November 17, 2018, 12:27:16 AM »

Interesting Randy, the screen is inside the muffler not on the exterior like the one I rigged up over the enlarged outlet hole.
It probably is inside, just remove the screw and try pulling out the plate with some needle nose pliers. The screen should be attached.

After I enlarged the outlet hole I found the saw ran better with the screen installed. There is a point where too much exhaust flow is detrimental to the saws porting design

realzed · « **Reply #585 on:** November 17, 2018, 03:37:44 PM »

Guess it was getting late!
I took a much stronger look today and now see that in fact I was wrong and way - way down inside I can see a screen inside the muffler as you mention. It wasn't visible to me late last evening..
I saw your posted picture of the 'after porting' and buttoned up muffler back in August - and assumed (you know how well that works - eh) that it was the stock screen you just had just replaced back AFTER your work - thus mine looked to be missing in comparison!
The plate that holds the factory screen in place looks in fact much the same but WITHOUT the mesh attached and going across the exit port and I now see the screen is below it and instead goes down and into the lower section of the muffler.
Convoluted little placement for sure and a b***h to get out I found just now.. Why Stihl would make sure a convoluted arrangement is beyond me, when the one you adapted is much easier and logical.. but whatever.
My mistake again.. and I do apparently have an arrestor (and a very clean one at that) after its all said and done..
I know you stated you pulled the screen and found no improvement, but did you try it before you cut the muffler as well, or only after?
I'm tempted to remove it in the Spring and give it a shot verses hacking up the metal body - since it seems to be such a tough place to get at easily!
Randy..

HolmenTree · « **Reply #586 on:** November 17, 2018, 03:59:17 PM »

Yes with the screen removed on a factory stock muffler the motor will breathe a bit better.
Matter of fact some of the European and beyond MS261 saws don't have screens.
Just here in North America forest fire laws are more strict.

HolmenTree · « **Reply #587 on:** December 13, 2018, 02:00:13 PM »

Every day I learn something new about saws.
This is a conversation I had on another forum recently with a USA, German and U.K. members.
I can't copy and paste so am doing this the hard way.

Holmen Tree
I can cold start my 2016 MS261 CM Version 2 on choke and leave it on choke for a good 30 seconds as it warms up. Could go longer. Great feature as it eliminates a fast idle setting.

USA Member
On a serious side, does the 261 actually have a full choke setting, or are they doing that electronically?
30 seconds with a choke plate closed would normally flood any saw, so they must be doing something different there.

Holmen Tree
On my 261the MTronic must be doing its job regulating the fuel intake while the choke shutter is closed for 30 seconds. I find it's nice to just click the throttle trigger once to set it to "run" after a cold start.

German Member
The M-Tronic models have a choke shutter with a small hole to let air flow through. With the choke shutter closed also the micro switch is activated. This lets the control unit calculate the necessary amount of fuel and ignition timing for starting.
While starting the air mixture is highly enriched. After initial combustion, the quantity of fuel is reduced and the engine does not flood or stall because of a too rich fuel air mixture. The engine can be accelerated immediately.
Blipping the throttle trigger brings the master control lever to the normal running mode and the micro switch is opened. The control unit receives the information the choke shutter is open and adjusts the amount of fuel.

U.K. Member
That's very interesting....I did wonder how the saw could keep running on the start setting for the 90 second "Re Calibrate" procedure that I think still is in place for the Version 2.0 saw.

German Member
Yes, the 90 second calibration.

Edit: All MTronic (example MS361 up 90 second at idle with choke on.
2016 version 2 and up, choke on for 30 seconds at idle, then immediately with choke still on and chain brake released hold WOT for another 30 seconds. (60 seconds toral with choke on.)

trapper · « **Reply #588 on:** December 13, 2018, 03:59:11 PM »

HolmenTree The 90 second calibration is new to me. Please explain it.
Thanks

HolmenTree · « **Reply #589 on:** December 13, 2018, 09:56:40 PM »

@trapper , this is all news to me too. Was hoping others may chime in here. From what I gather it's a reset procedure for the M-tronic.

But as I said in my above post the new M-tronic is very unique for everyone to see how advanced this technology has come along ushering it in for the new fuel injection units.

Kind of like when I realized how much better my 1992 F150 fuel injected computerized pickup ran over my older 1980's pickups.
Now into 2018 with my latest diesel pickup I'm astounded.

seanq · « **Reply #590 on:** December 21, 2018, 10:40:57 AM »

This video covers the reset process.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #591 on:** December 21, 2018, 10:46:54 AM »

Maybe this isn't the smartest question I have ever asked but,
If it automatically adjusts the carb, why would you have to run this reset procedure?

isn't 90 seconds at WOT not under load kind of a long time?

John Mc · « **Reply #592 on:** December 21, 2018, 01:39:16 PM »

Quote from: Weekend_Sawyer on December 21, 2018, 10:46:54 AM

Maybe this isn't the smartest question I have ever asked but,
If it automatically adjusts the carb, why would you have to run this reset procedure?

isn't 90 seconds at WOT not under load kind of a long time?

It's explained in the video: the older Mtronic saws are start (with brake off) and idle for 90 seconds (or a few seconds more). The newest 362 and the 462 are start and idle with chain brake on for 30 seconds, then turn chain brake off and go to full throttle for about 30 seconds. You'll notice the RPMs don't go all the way to full, despite holding WOT. (I think he mentions it's limited to about 10,000 RPM.) As you get close to 30 seconds of WOT, the RPMs will increase for a few seconds, then go back down to the limited (10,000 RPM). At this point, release the throttle and let it return to idle, then shut off. Neither uses 90 seconds WOT, and even the 30 second WOT is automaticaly limited to 10,000 RPM most of the time.

HolmenTree · « **Reply #593 on:** December 21, 2018, 02:02:17 PM »

Remember he had the choke set the whole time in both resets so no harm or risk of the saw over revving .

Thanks seanq for posting that video.
And welcome to our forum!

HolmenTree · « **Reply #594 on:** January 30, 2019, 11:23:45 AM »

With the recent introduction of the Husqvarna 545/550XP Mark ll it tells me Husqvarna is not throwing in the towel.
The 10 year old Husqvarna 550/560/562XP series has gone through some major changes with the recent introduction of redesigned saws following the latest 572XP design.
The 550XP has gained a little weight but has more h.p., torque and 30% better acceleration then the old 550XP.
The saw is totally rebuilt with more strength and thermal efficiency.
Pictured is the 545G. Notice the extra space between the muffler and crankcase housing.

HolmenTree · « **Reply #595 on:** January 30, 2019, 11:43:21 AM »

There was some confusion over the G models being heavier. That's because they have a built in generator and heated handles/carb.
The Rev Boost is discontinued but saw now has 30% more acceleration.

Inaotherlife · « **Reply #596 on:** January 30, 2019, 09:05:19 PM »

I remember my first Husqavarna. It was a real dinasaur in the weight department. But what a motor!
Looked something like this

'82 CR250

realzed · « **Reply #597 on:** February 01, 2019, 05:42:47 PM »

Quote from: John Mc on December 21, 2018, 01:39:16 PM

the older Mtronic saws are start (with brake off) and idle for 90 seconds (or a few seconds more). The newest 362 and the 462 are start and idle with chain brake on for 30 seconds, then turn chain brake off and go to full throttle for about 30 seconds. You'll notice the RPMs don't go all the way to full, despite holding WOT. (I think he mentions it's limited to about 10,000 RPM.) As you get close to 30 seconds of WOT, the RPMs will increase for a few seconds, then go back down to the limited (10,000 RPM). At this point, release the throttle and let it return to idle, then shut off. Neither uses 90 seconds WOT, and even the 30 second WOT is automaticaly limited to 10,000 RPM most of the time.

Any idea (probably best being asked of Willard - but..) which models of 261C including the newer-style side cover versions are to be considered the referred to 'older models' - or indeed should ALL 261C-M-Tronic saws be considered versions that require the longer 'chain brake off' 90 second fast idle reset procedure verses the 362 and 462 models with the shorter 30 sec higher rpm deal?

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #598 on:** February 04, 2019, 07:39:12 AM »

OK, I got it. Some times you have to write it on a brick and hit me with it.

My 261 would be at least 90 seconds at idle to reset.

Why would you need to reset it?
In the video the only reason he stated as to why you would run this procedure would be if you had just changed out the solenoid valve.

By the way I am still amazed at this chainsaw.
I am running a bone stock second generation saw with a 20" bar.
I bought it to replace my 028 and Husky 455. Both good saws that 2 friends of mine are happy to have.

This weekend I cut down a 14" black oak and a 18" chestnut oak. Both standing dead trees. The saw was dropping through them so quickly that I had to look at the end grain to make sure they weren't punky.

realzed · « **Reply #599 on:** February 04, 2019, 09:32:07 AM »

Thus my question and apparently your confusion as well somewhat, too.. As per the quote here from Willard's previous post:

(Quote)..
Edit: All M-Tronic (example MS361 up 90 second at idle with choke on.
2016 version 2 and up, choke on for 30 seconds at idle, then immediately with choke still on and chain brake released hold WOT for another 30 seconds. (60 seconds toral with choke on.)
(Quote)..

Which tells me a 2018 version II or even 2017 M-Tronic 261 C-M should require the full throttle - 90 second full reset procedure even though they only state it being used in the 362 and 462 versions..
So am I reading this wrong that it is the 90 sec reset for ALL M-Tronic saws past 2016 by year of manufacture or ANY saws 362 and up by displacement and up - that require a reset for some reason, and any others below that in size are by default to have the 30 chain brake off fast idle version?
I don't know obviously where or when the M-Tronic version II came into being or on which saws it is found - thus my question(s).
I don't expect to ever need or have to do a reset - but in the case where it my saw obviously struggles operation-wise it would be interesting to know which reset is preferable and required to try to bring it back - before having to bother with a needless trip to a dealership to attempt to get things straightened out, if it could all have been achieved at home or in the bush to correct things!

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Author Topic: Official MS261CM vs 550XP test (Read 67996 times)

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