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How long ar your back / log stops?

Started by Crusarius, October 04, 2017, 07:43:36 AM

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YellowHammer

Quote from: Magicman on October 05, 2017, 05:15:45 PM
When building be sure to have some means of adjustment so that you can keep them 90° with the sawmill bed.
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YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Chuck White

I like the idea of the first log-stop being 1/4" taller than the rest!

That way, if you clear the first one, you know you'll clear the others too!   ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Crusarius

I am  still trying to figure out how to make them adjustable. That is my challenge for the next couple of weeks.

The plan this weekend is to get bed tacked together so I can get carriage built

Magicman

Adjust the rods that the side supports hinge on.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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larrydown60

I made mine all wrong I have to remake mine. So I am watching here is a photo of the way I made mine don't do this LOL mine are getting bent when I put odd shaped log on I tried simple  and it failed.

  

Crusarius

Larry my rails are 2x6x.188 so your setup may work for mine. But I see a major problem with your T-bolts. How do you get to them with a log on there?

bandmiller2

Cruiser, Mine are 11" above the bed, I can cut to 12" with no concern about hitting them. They pivot up together with a lever on the front of the mill. With smaller logs you only pivot up as far as you need to hold the log. Mine are not square, a little over 90 degrees, everything is squared from the base anyways and this allows you to move them with the cant clamped. Top of the backstops are angled to ease logs when turning, tried ball bearings didn't really help much. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Crusarius

Thanks bandmiller that is really helpful.

Jeff

Without having your backdrops squared with the bed, what is your procedure for cutting the 90° face?
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bandmiller2

Jeff, they are just a smidgen beyond 90 I can get very close by eye. If precision is required I put a level on the vertical face. They are adjustable if I want square. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

woodweasel

I keep a couple of 2"x30'' pipes when I  go out on a job. If I need the extra height on the backstops to rotate a large log I drop them over my backstops. Get it turned then remove them. ;D

Crusarius

Thats a good idea. I started designing my backstop today. Not having any luck :(

bandmiller2

Cruiser, some here don't like the swing up stops, that's fine, but both types work and the swingers are easier to build. Most of the opposition to swingers are guys with factory built mills, its a different ball of wax when you have to design and fabricate. I have found 11" to be a good height much lower and theirs a chance a log could roll over the top, longer and they get in the way. It helps if the front of the stop is smooth and angled so the log or cant will slide back on the bunks easily. It is good if all the stops are tied together and controlled from one point, I have a lever on the front of the mill that controls both. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Crusarius

Thanks bandmiller. I am still planning on having them all together. I have 2 thoughts. 4 that go up and down or 4 that pivot. Unfortunately I have hit a design flop and am having a hard time making my ideas work or even coming up with any.

The straight up and down definitely be easier to fabricate. but will also cost more. The rotate ones are much more complex with the need for adjustability.

With the straight up and down I am very concerned about ground clearance. Afraid I will lose all of it when they are in the down position. It may not be the end of the world but really don't want to have to remember to raise them before I try to drag it out of the woods. Being a 24' deck definitely has its challenges.

Kbeitz

I made mine to rotate. Heavy wall pipe on solid round stock. Then I drilled a 1/2"
hole in the pipe and put a chunk of round brass in like a plug. Then a muffler clamp
pushes on the brass plug so the whole thing does not just flop around. Then I welded
a 1-1/4 rack to the end of the round stock for my log dogs to ride on.



 

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Larry

Stops should extend a couple inches higher than the radius of the largest log you expect to saw.  This makes the log a lot easier to turn.  On my TK-2000 the stops are 20" high which I think is perfect.  The stops are 1 1/2" X 2" bar stock and plenty stout.  The mount is also thought out well.  I've only adjusted the stops once in 7 years of sawing and they were only out maybe a 1/16".  The mill came with 4 stops that work together.  Sawing a lot of 12' and shorter logs the fourth stop was in my way, slowing me down, so I removed it.

My first mill had stops that were 12" above the bed.  Couple of times while I was turning a knot hole caught one of those stops.  Branch stubs and splits were also a problem.  The mill came with extensions which solved the problems, but another step putting them on/taking them off.  I see some mills put bearings on the top of the post.  An expensive solution that could be resolved better with longer stops.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Crusarius

KB I really like your setup. Wish I had the junkyard you have. That would probably change quite a few things on my mill.

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