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WM claim "Special two-plane clamping system simplifies sawing of stressed logs"

Started by RIMwood, November 06, 2017, 09:45:17 AM

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RIMwood

Thanks to all for the great input.
I have experimented flipping the cant but without the ability to get a good clamp on, it just don't work.

RPowers, yep thats the way I want to do it, good to hear it works for you. One question, do you leave the boards on the cant or do you take each board off as you cut?

I always mill by myself and I find it quicker and a lot less handling if leave the boards on then pick up the whole bundle with the loader. It does take more time for the up/down travel of the head height as you work your way down the cant, but those 2" x 12" x 16' are real busters to handle by yourself.

mikeoverbey

RIMwood,

I did the conversion https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,96848.20.html and am so happy with the outcome. I believe if you have the knowledge of electrical circuits and hydraulics and know how to weld, it becomes a straightforward process. It takes some time and thinking, but can be done. It depends on what your time is worth and if you like doing projects yourself, as I do.  Just don't let the idea of cutting and welding on a frame discourage you. Mine cut just as true after all the welding as it did before with absolutely no adjustments. In my opinion, this issue gets overrated. I've yet to hear of anyone messing up a frame. If you are familiar with jigs for assemblies, you'll immediately recognize that the woodmizer is basically built like one. By simply welding a piece across the cut, you'll assure yourself proper alignment. In theory, if you did get some welding shrinkage where the welds were able to pull against the frame, it MIGHT bow the frame toward the weld.  I tried to use the cutout to bridge the gap on the outside of the frame and didn't like the overlap---oops. I ended up welding another 2" strip around my bump-out for security.  I still didn't get any bowing in the frame.  All of my backstop dogs still line up.  I even took angular measurements with a digital inclinometer while doing this, to check the frames and saw no difference.

I'm not a real experienced sawyer but have hit the wrong control once or twice. The clamp doesn't pull down much when clamped on a cant. The two plane clamp is amazing and that is one thing I couldn't have had in a purchased mill of this vintage. My joystick setup really makes maneuvering the cants/logs easy.

Mike
Mike

RPowers

Quote from: RIMwood on November 08, 2017, 08:13:42 AM

RPowers, yep thats the way I want to do it, good to hear it works for you. One question, do you leave the boards on the cant or do you take each board off as you cut?

I always mill by myself and I find it quicker and a lot less handling if leave the boards on then pick up the whole bundle with the loader. It does take more time for the up/down travel of the head height as you work your way down the cant, but those 2" x 12" x 16' are real busters to handle by yourself.

I usually cut a few boards, then drag them off the can't so I don't have to raise and lower the head so much. I rarely have equipment on portable jobs so this works for my needs. I forgot to clamp hard of the last face on a tall WO can't today and it jumped up an inch halfway through.That was a pain.
2013 Woodmizer LT28G25 (sold 2016)
2015 Woodmizer LT50HDD47

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