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Author Topic: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer  (Read 598 times)

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Offline Stuart Caruk

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Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« on: December 02, 2017, 07:35:55 PM »
O/K, I've got a bunch of extra materials at year end, and some great axles, as well as a nifty log loader off a small self loading log truck and a spare 18HP hydraulic powerplant. What I want to build is a mid size forwarding trailer to mount the loader on and tow it with my Dodge Megacab 1 ton, grab some logs and come back to the shop.

It will be strong enough to satisfy our local scale cops, but I also want to be able to unhook it at some sites and tow it with my tracked Bobcat or a skidder to grab a load of logs, and bring the trailer back to the landing where I can hook it to my truck and go home. Unloaded, I figure I'll weigh in around 5000 pounds. Loaded around 14,000 or so.

I've got 4 Timbren suspension spindles designed to replace an axle that are excess.
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31150

I was planning on mounting them directly to the main frame, or perhaps a solid welded subframe that's wider than the main frame for stability. A couple buddies have suggested a walking beam type suspension instead to make it easier to get around obstacles in the woods.

I only plan on taking it places I could realistically drive my Bobcat. If it gets gnarly, I'd use the skidder to bring the logs out to the landing in the first place.

So I'm looking for suggestions... weld these axles solidly to the frame or extension, or weld them to a walking beam that pivots freely on either side. Any reasons for or against?

Curiously,

Stu
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

Offline PartTimeJack

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2017, 07:42:49 PM »
Welding solid would make it a lot easier to change blown out tires, but you're going to have to drive slower. Speed probably won't be an issue in the woods, just on the road.
A hickory stick, and a cherry twist for me.

Just a Farmer learnin to be a Jack.

Offline Riwaka

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2017, 08:28:41 PM »
I thought the Timbren axleless units were bolted on, so they could be unbolted for servicing and quick exchange if damaged etc
http://timbren.com/silent-ride/  (timbren axle tandem unit)   http://www.timbren.com.au/

Try to get a cad drawing done so the weight/ strength of the structure is analysed so the crane etc weight is distributed well when the trailer is empty.

I'm less in favour of walking beam for a 'lightweight' set up. Probably better to aim to keep your trailer load as low as possible when on the road home. Use the skidder blade to smooth the rough parts of the trail in the woods.

A friend recently made a trailer similar it was expensive even using recycled tires and rims. Tires and rims are a critical part as well as brakes.
Did you look round to see what 4x4 trucks are around that the crane could be mounted on? (obviously get truck tires, brakes, engine, suspension going that way)

  Review of the Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System - etrailer.com

Offline mike_belben

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2017, 08:40:42 PM »
I cant open the link, are they the "axle-less" setup with a rubber block in a swingarm or is it just a fixed rigid spindle?
Revelation 3:20

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2017, 08:44:03 PM »
I copy and paste to get the links to work.
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Offline mike_belben

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2017, 09:45:11 PM »
Somebody may have fixed it, link just worked. 

i would put it on a walking beam with the details given.  Going down the road on a rigid walking beam maybe not so great but the timbren will take up some of the shock.  Since you have a skidder you have the capacity to actually take the thing into the woods and it would work better with the walking beam out there.  Plus the ground clearance will be helpful if you want to drag out longer stuff with overhang.  It doesnt sound like youll be loading it 13ft high so COG probably will be minor issue. 

Id personally cut the tubes off a chevy 14b, dana80 or ford sterling dually axle.  Ditch the shafts and drums and cut up some truck rims for the flanges id weld the beam to.  That'd give you a 10k rated center pivot with common parts store bearings.   If you dont think thats enough load capacity, you could do the same with a 20k rockwell/eaton/spicer rear.  Every junkyard has a few schoolbus axles that never sell.  Theyre pretty worthless. 
Revelation 3:20

Offline Skeans1

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2017, 11:36:11 PM »
O/K, I've got a bunch of extra materials at year end, and some great axles, as well as a nifty log loader off a small self loading log truck and a spare 18HP hydraulic powerplant. What I want to build is a mid size forwarding trailer to mount the loader on and tow it with my Dodge Megacab 1 ton, grab some logs and come back to the shop.

It will be strong enough to satisfy our local scale cops, but I also want to be able to unhook it at some sites and tow it with my tracked Bobcat or a skidder to grab a load of logs, and bring the trailer back to the landing where I can hook it to my truck and go home. Unloaded, I figure I'll weigh in around 5000 pounds. Loaded around 14,000 or so.

I've got 4 Timbren suspension spindles designed to replace an axle that are excess.
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31150

I was planning on mounting them directly to the main frame, or perhaps a solid welded subframe that's wider than the main frame for stability. A couple buddies have suggested a walking beam type suspension instead to make it easier to get around obstacles in the woods.

I only plan on taking it places I could realistically drive my Bobcat. If it gets gnarly, I'd use the skidder to bring the logs out to the landing in the first place.

So I'm looking for suggestions... weld these axles solidly to the frame or extension, or weld them to a walking beam that pivots freely on either side. Any reasons for or against?

Curiously,

Stu
Would you like to come look at our Farmi trailer I'm only in Rainier?

Offline Riwaka

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2017, 12:00:07 AM »
Consider an extra pair of 'feet' at the back of the trailer if you are going to take the trailer off in the woods.
Could lift the trailer wheels off the ground when stationary. Hydraulic rams with lockouts. hydraulic motor driven screw worm like garage car hoists.

Offline Stuart Caruk

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Re: Suspension choices for a shop made forestry trailer
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2017, 02:06:13 AM »
I thought the Timbren axleless units were bolted on, so they could be unbolted for servicing and quick exchange if damaged etc

Did you look round to see what 4x4 trucks are around that the crane could be mounted on? (obviously get truck tires, brakes, engine, suspension going that way)

  Review of the Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System - etrailer.com

I'm a lazy sucker, so I planned on welding the timbren units to either the frame or walking beam. It will likely outlive me anyway. Although.... your video gave me the idea to simply stick a couple plates in the mill and tap the bolt pattern to it, then weld that to the frame so I can bolt and unbolt the assembly.

I'm not interested in yet another used truck to stick the crane on. The scales are right by my shop, and when I take the backroads, the scale cops are hanging out looking for those who choose (or need) to run the scales. They always found something wrong with my trucks . So I switched to towing trailers with my Dodge Mega Cab. When the scale cop stops me they check for the capacity on my stinger and to see if I'm obviously overloaded and that everything is secure. It's typically a non event unless I'm doing something really stupid.
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.


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