Tried doing some milling on my new old Cook's AC-36 today???

[customcutter01]

Been sick for the past 3 weeks, but finally felt good enough to try and get the mill ready to run.  Yesterday I tried to get the drip lines unchoked from all the rust.  The reservoir is built into the frame and the previous owner used water instead of the recommended diesel.  Now it has about 2-3 inches of rust in the bottom of it.  I tried filling and draining about 20 times, with the valves removed and it's still full of rust and junk.  If you have a solution let me know.  Un-choked the valves and needle valves on both sides.  But I know they are just going to choke up again with the junk draining out of the tank.

We actually started it up last night, dropped the legs (didn't level it, more on that later) and got the transport bars/bolts, and zip ties all cut loose.  I thought we were ready to try milling and went to start it back up and it wouldn't fire.  I asked another guy there to check the primer bulb (like on a boat motor fuel tank) and make sure it was pumped up.  I noticed a couple of minutes later he was still holding the primer bulb but didn't think about it.  Anyway it wouldn't fire, we started checking oil, plugs, etc. and everything was soaked in gas.  Drained the crankcase and it had over a gallon of oil/gas mixture where the guy had pumped gas into the motor with the primer bulb.

So, today I changed oil (1.5qts), filter, plugs, etc, and she fired right off.  Finally halfway figured out the hyd's enough to get a log loaded and tried to make a cut.  It would cut about a foot and then take a dive from 1" deep down to about 3" deep over the next 6".  I thought it was because the log tried to roll and wasn't dogged down good on the first attempt.  So, I rolled the log 180* and tried again and the same thing.  It cuts about a foot starts diving and bogs down.

Like I said, I didn't level the mill front to back or side to side.  Could this be causing the problem?  I thought I would try leveling the mill tomorrow and try making another cut.  If that doesn't work, I will try a new blade.  I'm not sure about the condition of the blade?  I saw the previous owner make a cut on a 16" square cant probably 16' long that was aged dry pine.  But he didn't use any lube, and went extremely slow, because he said he didn't have any lube.  It made a perfect cut, even through the last 4-5' where there were 9 nails.  I know he changed the blade, because he gave me a blade with about 1/3 of the teeth missing.  All the teeth are on the present blade and it feels sharp.  I bought 20 extra blades so using a new one isn't a problem just hope the "leveling" is the issue, and not something else.

thanks,
Ken

[Kbeitz]

I clean gas tanks with old battery acid. The acid will eat the rust right up.
Flush with baking soda and water...Wear glasses..

[customcutter01]

Thanks, I'll try that.  Hadn't thought about the old batteries, but was wondering about using an acid.  I think I've got a couple of old batteries sitting out back.

[starmac]

If it was me, I would use an air compressor and blow backwards through it before pouring the battery acid in, then let it sit for a while and blow backwards through it again. I would probably flush with vinegar after cleaning the acid out too.

[thecfarm]

You will get it.
I do remember when he showed you the mill he hit some nails?? Did you change blades? And if any extras blades came with it,are they good blades? You really should have a brand new blade,or one that is known to be sharp,to tune in your mill.

[bandmiller2]

I have found the most effective way to clean a rusty tank is to put a handfull of steel nuts ( size your option) in the tank and rattle them around, empty and add muriatic acid with caution. Slosh around and let sit drain flush and neutralize with a base like baking soda. Muriatic acid is available at most hard ware stores. If the tank is real rusty the acid may eat a hole, and fiberglass and epoxy may be needed. Frank C.

[Kbeitz]

For any tanks with holes or leaks this stuff really works...
It will even cover up rust...



 

[customcutter01]

Yes, I changed the blade and even though the other one felt sharp and looked good, the new blade makes a perfect cut.

The tank is a section of 2X6 tubing built into the frame.  Right now it probably has 2-3" of rust/trash in the bottom of the tank just by sticking it with a wooden dowel.  I think I am going to have to cut some holes in it with my plasma cutter to clean it out and then weld it back up.

For now I tried putting a 15 gal poly tank that I had from an old spray rig that no longer worked.  However, with all the splices and joints it keeps loosing prime every few minutes and no longer siphons.  We used a hose temporarily today to spray the blade/log with, but that's way too much water.

[Banjo picker]

Hey custom, that fill hole in that tank is about 2 inches, can you get some sort of vacuum hose down in there and get the rust out.  I would not want to cut a hole in that tank....that would be as a last resort at least.  I tried water and soap in mine one time, and it stopped my inline filters up, so after I changed them a couple of times I only run straight diesel now.  You will get the bugs out of it. You got a good machine.  Banjo

[customcutter01]

Hey custom, that fill hole in that tank is about 2 inches, can you get some sort of vacuum hose down in there and get the rust out.  I would not want to cut a hole in that tank....that would be as a last resort at least.  I tried water and soap in mine one time, and it stopped my inline filters up, so after I changed them a couple of times I only run straight diesel now.  You will get the bugs out of it. You got a good machine.  Banjo

I wish it did have a 2" fill hole, mine is only 1" maybe 1.25" at best.  I don't think the small hose on my shop vac will fit down it, but I'll give it a try.

I've pulled the valve/needle valve assemblies 3 times now and cleaned them out.  If I ever get it cleaned out, I will never run water in it again.

[nativewolf]

For any tanks with holes or leaks this stuff really works...
It will even cover up rust...



 

Neat, will it work in an outdoor diesel tank that looks good inside but has a tiny bit of rust and is too darn hard to get to?

Free to me and I'd like to make it work.

[nativewolf]

I clean gas tanks with old battery acid. The acid will eat the rust right up.
Flush with baking soda and water...Wear glasses..

Ahh, learned some more.  So, acid wash, then baking soda to neutralize.  Then dry ...then?  and diesel?

[kelLOGg]

I have Cooks MP32 with the same drip tank. I have used only diesel for the 15 years I have had the mill. The small filters (I drilled another hole in the tank for a drip on the opposite side) still get rust in them, presumably from letting the diesel level get low.
Bob

[Don P]

I'm guessing there is a fill bung on top of the 2x6 tank section. If you can get hold of a magnetic base drill press and make that a 4" hole to work through then weld a new fitting and reducer up there on the dry side.

If its just welded tube and you have a welder it might be just as quick and easy to R&R it and it'd be clean steel.

Yes level and check for wind (like winding a watch wind) down the mill. Lay a long straightedge across the rails at each end of the mill and get your eye down to see if they plane in or if one is, twisted. I'll take a stab and say that was the trouble but I mostly run a circle blade. But you won't cut if the mill isn't set up.

[customcutter01]

Yes, we zip tied a hose and set it on mist for the last 2 days and it's a frustrating mess.  I've got to do something to fix it.  I have been thinking about cutting the entire section out and replacing the whole tank.  The mill it set up at my cousins and all my tools, welder, plasma cutter, etc. are at my house.  I may just have to break it down and bring it home for a day or two.

[kelLOGg]

The tank is structural support for the bandwheels. Check with Cooks before you cut it out.

[plantman]

I clean gas tanks with old battery acid. The acid will eat the rust right up.
Flush with baking soda and water...Wear glasses..

If you don't have an old battery you can buy pure phosphoric acid in the form of drain opener in some hardware stores. That stuff is great for taking hard water mineral scale off tile or porcelain heavily diluted with water. Just a 5 or 6 ounces in the toilet while moving the water around with a plunger does the trick. Need to be careful though because it's so powerful that you could crack the toilet if you put too much in at a time.

[plantman]

For any tanks with holes or leaks this stuff really works...
It will even cover up rust...



 

That looks great. Do you just pour it in and swish it around ?

[plantman]

I've heard that mechanics use very large metal ball bearings to shake around in rusty fuel tanks in order to clean out rust. Of course you need to have the tank out to do that.

[Kbeitz]

For any tanks with holes or leaks this stuff really works...
It will even cover up rust...



 

That looks great. Do you just pour it in and swish it around ?

Poor in swish around and poor it back into the can and save it for the next tank.
It put like a glass linning inside your tank.

[kelLOGg]

I clean gas tanks with old battery acid. The acid will eat the rust right up.
Flush with baking soda and water...Wear glasses..

Put a temporary plug in place of the oil drip and after (someway) swishing the acid  drain it thru the hole? Careful not to eat up the threads.

[muggs]

My friend made a 2 part kit called Kreme. One of the places that sold it was JC Whitney. It consisted of phosphoric acid and a liquid plastic to coat the tank.   Muggs

[starmac]

Kreme used to be sold in motorcycle shops/dealers. I have no experience, but iirc it got a reputation for flaking off after a year or two.

[wascator]

I fixed a tank on an old Allis-Chalmers tractor I rebuilt about 25 years ago, with tank sealer from Bill Hirsch (antique car parts guy). It was white and thick and tank is still fine.
The tank was so bad, it looked like a piece of screen wire on the bottom, but the tank was the teardrop kind that was exposed at the rear of the hood, so I had to do something to try to save it. I basically boiled it in hot water and lye until it was completely clean, sealed the bottom with a thin layer of fine woven fiberglass cloth + resin (enough so the sealer would not run out), then poured the sealer in and rolled the tank about to distribute it; poured any extra out. Once I did a little filler work and sanding on the outside and painted it, it looked fine.
Hope this helps/encourages you.

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

If I understand the design of the mill, the tank is integrated as part of the mill power head framework and is not readily removable. This would make it difficult to use any solutions that involve "swishing" cleaner or coating compounds around inside the "tank"...

Herb