New OS27 and I have questions.

[T-Bolt]

A couple of weeks ago I pulled the trigger and purchased the OS27. I have lots to say about the mill but that is for a later time (serial number 18). I am new to milling so I want to know if my current issue is an equipment issue or operator error. I started with several softwood logs and milled some 6x6 beams to build a stable place to stack boards to dry. The mill cut great and accurate. Next I milled an 8" black walnut into 4/4 stock. Again everything went smooth and was thrilled with the boards. The issue was when I tried to mill a 20" white oak with a little crotch grain. The cut was far from flat with a difference of nearly 3/8". With my 14" shop bandsaw I would adjust the blade tension so I tried that and cut again with the same results. It was suggested that with crotch grain I should cut from the other direction so I tried that with the same results. Any advice?

[Magicman]

Welcome  the Forestry Forum, T-Bolt.

It would help those of us that are not familiar with that sawmill if you had given a bit more information about your Frontier OS27. 

Also adding it and your location to your profile will help us to remember.

[Den-Den]

I don't know anything about your mill but my first thought was that your blade is now dull.

[thecfarm]

T-Bolt,welcome to the forum.
I have read it many times on here,Does it do the same thing with a known sharp blade or a new one? Try changing blades.

[T-Bolt]

How long should a blade last? I have milled about 8 softwood logs 12"x8' and one 10"x7' walnut. Is that all the life that I can expect?

[thecfarm]

No set rule on how long a blade will last. Just depends what is in-on the log that say how long the balde will last.
Was that white oak crotch the last thing you cut? Yes,toy will get some nice looking wood,but dirt settles down into the crotch over the years and the blades hits the dirt and dulls it.
And probably the other logs had some dirt on them too and that added to the short blade life too.

[Magicman]

Cleanliness of the log as in no dirt, etc. has more to do with how sharp and how many logs you can saw with a blade.  There is a difference between a not sharp blade and a dull blade.  You probably could have sawn more with that blade, but White Oak is a completely different subject. 

Before I started to saw a 20" White Oak log, I would have a new or freshly sharpened 4° blade on the sawmill.

[Ben Cut-wright]

A couple of weeks ago I pulled the trigger and purchased the OS27. I have lots to say about the mill but that is for a later time (serial number 18). I am new to milling so I want to know if my current issue is an equipment issue or operator error. I started with several softwood logs and milled some 6x6 beams to build a stable place to stack boards to dry. The mill cut great and accurate. Next I milled an 8" black walnut into 4/4 stock. Again everything went smooth and was thrilled with the boards. The issue was when I tried to mill a 20" white oak with a little crotch grain. The cut was far from flat with a difference of nearly 3/8". With my 14" shop bandsaw I would adjust the blade tension so I tried that and cut again with the same results. It was suggested that with crotch grain I should cut from the other direction so I tried that with the same results. Any advice?

"Far from flat" means the surface was "nearly 3/8" higher in the center of the cut, between the 20" of the width? 

You reference adjusting the blade tension of your shop band saw.  There must be instructions that came with your new saw mill regarding proper band tensioning?   It is possible that tension is not proper even though/if the instructions were followed.  But it does appear you have some question as to the what the tension should be and how to achieve it.  Getting proper tension on that band will help eliminate one item of concern.

Your mill does not have an adjustable arm for the idle side guide roller, is that correct?  IOW, the band is supported at max width only?  If so, this will make proper tension even more critical. 

The literature I read says that the Frontier mills are shipped with 10 degree bands.  It is commonly accepted that less angle is better for hard woods and difficult sawing. 
Sawing White Oak, especially wider cuts with a low HP mill, requires slower feed rates than more easily cut woods.  Did your 3/8" occur only in the crotch area or across the entire length. Beginning the cut at 'top end or bottom end' MAY have some influence on some logs.  But that influence has more to do with diving cuts than arcing cuts.

You must learn to assess a band for sharpness.  This requires noting cut quality, being able to look at the teeth with magnification, and how well the mill preforms.  Magnification of ten power of better will be sufficient.  All the methods work together and separately.  Look further here in these forums for education, and spend time with the mill for experience and verification of what your learn. 

Cut that White Oak (with or without a crotch) with a *sharp band which has a tooth angle of 4-7 degrees, tensioned at its higher point, at a feed rate that allows your engine to maintain proper band speed.  I have better success cutting hardwoods with tooth set at the lower end of recommended, sometimes a bit lower than recommended.  Coolant/lube will be needed if the band heats or becomes coated, use as much as required to accomplish the purpose.   You didn't say how long the White Oak log was.  I often only 'clean' the band after the cut is made if cutting  short logs.

[buckdavet]

I'm new here... 1st post!  I'm posting in this discussion because as of right now, the OS27 mill is on the top of my list for my 1st sawmill.  My second choice is Woodland Mills HM126.
My budget for the mill itself is $4,000.   I tried to contact OP T-bolt through his email but I couldn't do that until I posted here.   Hopefully we can make contact and discuss his OS27.

Putting aside the fact its built on the other side of the ocean, I like it over the HM126 primarily for the following reasons:  13hp vs. 9.5hp.  larger log length and diameter.  Standard 11'6" log length vs 10'5" on the HM126.    Another important (to me!) feature is the the 4 upright posts on the OS27 are tied together at the top - they aren't on the HM126.  Being connected together as on the OS27 seems to render a much more stable and rigid assembly. 

Anyway, for the time being, I'm just trying to find someone who owns an OS27.  After I get  a mill, I'm sure I'll be back here with questions! 

[buckdavet]

I need to correct myself on what I said about the HM126 above.  On older youtube videos, I was seeing that the top of the four uprights were not joined together but now looking at the newest HM126, I see that woodland did strengthen the whole carriage and now the four upright posts are bolted together.  Good idea as doing that seems to make a much more rigid structure.   

But my choice is still the OS27.    Still would like to make contact with someone who bought one from the first batch.    Never owned a sawmill before but I'm about to order an OS27. 

[Southside]

One additional question is was that white oak green or had it been around for a while? Logs saw a lot easier when they are stump green, especially white oak.