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Author Topic: Frick 00 Circle Saw  (Read 2974 times)

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Offline Rigg

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Frick 00 Circle Saw
« on: December 31, 2017, 11:24:13 AM »
I attached a video of my sawmill I got running some time back.  Would welcome any comments or suggestions.

I haven't ran it in awhile and seems a little slow on power.  The sun was shining on it and that doesn't help.

I'm not sure if its spinning fast enough to make the blade stand up. Can any one tell from the video?

My receder for the headblocks also seem to be binding up a little. 

I've had to keep adjusting the headblocks to keep the boards square.  That has been my most recurring problem.

I'm running about 1/8 inch of lead with new chrome teeth.   Its gigging on the return more than I'd like right now.

Its a 48 inch blade.


Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2017, 12:40:16 PM »
Hi Rigg, 

nice set-up

what's the power unit?

No telling from the video on your blade,...tooth pattern/number of teeth?
whats your blade hammered to for surface feet per minute (SFPM) or RPM's

Since its been sitting, maybe a little maintenance to get the set-works loosened a little??

D


Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2017, 01:18:19 PM »
Thanks.  Its a International UD-14 power unit.  I think its around 75 hp from what I've read. 

I don't really know what the blade was hammered for.  I'm assuming around 540 rpm.  I don't feel like the blade is turning that fast though.  Probably need to get a tach.

Its B/F teeth.  I think there's 48 teeth on that blade.  I need to go count again.

I've oiled the setworks pretty well.  They work well pulling in but seems difficult going out.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2017, 02:35:13 PM »
Your losing power while you're in the cut.  That's causing your saw to lay over because whatever you saw is hammered for, you're not maintaining that speed.  I have to question if you're actually running fast enough.  Since you're running direct off the motor, there isn't any slippage in the belts.  Check your air filters.  That was often an area where we lost power was when they got dirty.  Is there a tach on the motor?  I'd say your under 500 rpm, just by the sound of the saw.  You should be able to feed faster than what you're doing.

I also wonder how sharp your saw is.  Chromed bits always seemed dull to me caused by the plating process.  How do you plan to sharpen the chromed bits?  You'll need a grinder to knock the chrome off of them.  Also, how are your saw guides?  They should be close on the board side.  You're getting markings on your lumber.  Your bits need to be aligned with the shanks or you'll have some teeth that are hanging longer than the other teeth.  Your saw will always lead to the stronger side.

Lead is a relative thing.  If you're not running up to RPM, then it won't matter, as the saw isn't standing up.  Some mills can get by with a scant lead, others need a lot.  I had one that needed 3/8" lead.   Track alignment can affect your lead.   

Binding can be a problem, but a bit of diesel does a good job as a lubricant.  It also doesn't attract too much sawdust. 

One thing I would add on technique.  I always gave a tug on the dogs as I dogged on a hand mill.  That takes out all the slop and keeps the log securely in place.  Watch your fingers. 
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2017, 03:09:48 PM »
Thanks for replying Mr. Wenrich.

I am losing power more so than several months ago.  I haven't sawed with it in a bout 2 months till we took that video.  Planning on cleaning air filter and changing fuel filter.  I also have air in the fuel sometimes and haven't completely fixed that either.

Would like to eventually hook a Detroit up.

In nice poplar I can generally feed a lot faster than in the video.  However the last 2 days it seemed a little sluggish.  That's why I'm worried about it.  When I hit that nasty little cucumber seems like it just set the motor back.  So not sure if its me or the motor.

I don't have a plan for the chrome bits.  I had a box of them and I put them on because the old bits were shot. It cut a lot better after I did that.  Till now.  I have an angle grinder and a mill bastard file. Will they work?

I did go back through after I initially put the chrome bits on and straightened them up a bit.  Before that I had 1 or 2 teeth that were really leaving a groove. I'll do it again then.

Also on bits.. I also have a box of standalls.  However, some of the shanks are winter and some are summer.  So wasn't sure if I should use them.

After this video I did tighten the guides.  I was in a hurry and didn't have time to fool with them.  When I shade my eyes from the sun I noticed the gap was to much.

However, seems like I need to tighten my guides to often.  Guessing that's because the saws wobbling when she slows down in the cut?

An older sawyer straightened me out on the dogs yesterday as well.  They have a little slop in them.

Offline 4x4American

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2017, 03:33:12 PM »
Whats that electric motor by the setworks powering or is it not hooked up? 
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Offline Gearbox

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2017, 03:55:52 PM »
I see a few things .
1 When you did the lead did you turn the saw to use the same tooth the measure to the same bunk and the saw guide backed off .
2 there is something about the teeth making a deep mark in your board . look at your teeth .
3 You can't guess at saw speed . Start at idle with the saw guides backed off and throttle up until the saw stands up .
4 If you are running that UD at 6 7 or 800 your power will be way down . that is a 1400 rpm engine .
I am wondering if Jeff sees this if he might know what is causing the teeth marks . It isn't spraying saw dust on the return so it may be to much lead . Does the saw step over when it comes out of the cut .
























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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2017, 04:12:56 PM »
4x4,
The electric motor will recede the headblocks.  I don't have it hooked up right now.


Gear box,

Don't have anyone to ask about the UD 14.

Yes, checked lead with same tooth and ran the guides out.  I haven't changed it from what its always been.

So when I go to flip to diesel I have to put it a little above the 3rd notch to get it to run.  If you try notch 1 or 2 it'll die.  Sometimes it'll lope in the 3rd notch.  The 4th notch it revs up and steadies.  That's as fast as she goes. That's where I'm sawing. 

So I've had some air in the lines and am wondering if that's not why its running as fast as it should and loping.

I have the fuel supply tank up in the air.  In the book it says the lines should slope down from the engine to avoid air pockets. Reason I put it there because it always was there. Do you think this could be a problem?

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2017, 05:00:19 PM »
I can't help you out with the engine issues.  I always worked with diesels that were belted to the mill.  That way you could run at a good RPM and get the power into the blade. 

To sharpen chrome, you need to knock off the chrome from the face of the tooth.  Without that, you won't be able to file the teeth.  I run chrome for awhile, but switched back to steel.  I used them on my edgers, since they weren't used for as deep of cuts.  But, new chrome always gave me some tooth marks.  Simonds is the only game in town and I've seen teeth that are mismanufactured.  I've had some that I had to get into shape to make a good tooth.  Usually, they were long on one side.  Chrome also has a tendency to be a little erratic in the thickness.  A spider gauge will help you get the teeth all the same width.  A quick and easy way to do it is to take a file on the sides of 3 teeth.  If it rocks, the middle one is high.  I've used that method to get rid of wild teeth.

Another thing to do is to check your saw on how it runs when its stationary.  Loosen your guides so the saw doesn't rub.  Find an area where the teeth are in the center of the guides.  Advance the saw one tooth at a time and mark your saw with a "+" or a "-" as it moves to the left of right.  The more it moves, the more "+" or "-" marks you use.  You'll have a map of your saw and collars.  For a quick fix, you can use a paper shim.  But, what is really need is to have your collars turned. 

On setting lead, if you have 3 bearings, you have to loosen the bearing in the middle before you set your lead.
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2017, 06:09:10 PM »
Yeah, I didn't have any teeth marks until I changed teeth.  I took a straight edge against 3 teeth at a time and gently tapped a few wild ones over.  That helped a lot but still have some grooves.  Maybe do it again?  What do I have to use to knock the chrome off?

Probably why I have a box full of chrome teeth.

Another question.  If you take that back dog up as the carriage is coming back in other words let the log lay up against the saw for a second and the saw is rubbing it harder than maybe it should.   Will it be enough to cause it to make the next cut be off a little?  The thickness of the board on one end be thinner?

Offline Gearbox

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2017, 06:19:03 PM »
Ron and I will get it on the right track . I have never sawed with chrome . As far as the diesel are you saying you open the throttle wide open ? Are your fuel filters new ? We have a UD 18 at our farm club that is stuck . If need be I can use it to refresh my memory . Seems to me when we switched from gas to diesel we always opened it wide open then throttled back . Man that's 40 years ago haha .
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Offline Gearbox

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2017, 06:24:03 PM »
Is your last board tapered ? I had the bunks out of time once . It took a while for the light to come on that one . your last board will always be tapered by a 1/4 inch the rest will be right . Each notch is 1/8 inch I think .
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2017, 08:24:18 PM »
I run it wide open.  Not sure the phone he was using picked up all the sound. 

Fuel filter is not new.  Supposed to get a new one Monday.

My last board has been tapered at times.  I've reset the headblocks and then its been fine.  I haven't checked lately.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2017, 09:19:12 PM »
Sounds like you have some stress in the logs.  When you let your back dog up, that will relieve the stress and you'll have a bit of spring in the log.  The way around that is to constantly turn your cant.  But, when you do that, you need to make a shim cut.  That trues up your cut and wastes time and fiber.  Otherwise you end up with miscut lumber that has little value. 
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Offline Southside logger

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #14 on: December 31, 2017, 11:23:01 PM »
I don't know anything about circular mills, but the yoke on the PTO shaft does not look like it is spinning at 540 based on what my irrigation pump looks like. It could be the camera causing an optical illusion. A plugged up filter will limit your RPM for sure.  Either way, please get a shield over that shaft for the sake of your offbearer and yourself.
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Offline sealark37

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2018, 10:25:00 AM »
When it is running properly, your UD-14 should make short work of the logs you are sawing.  Either the governed speed is low, or fuel pressure to the injection pump is low.  If you don't have a service or owners manual for the UD-14, they are available on Fleabay.  You have a nice looking setup.  Don't wait too long to build a saw shed.    Regards, Clark

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2018, 06:50:14 PM »
It looks like you need a speed reduction to run the engine at 1400 + and the saw at 5 to 600.
you can usually can find the saw speed by running [in the air] your engine at the saw wobble speed and accelerate until the saw runs flat and note that speed. That should be the hammered speed and you cannot go below it.  the engine needs to run at maximum torque + while the saw runs at the hammered speed.  The nice thing about shaft drive is their is no pull on the mandrel compared to belt drive. there is a ud 14a rebuilt long block down here.

Offline Corley5

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #17 on: January 01, 2018, 07:36:57 PM »
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Offline Darrel

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #18 on: January 01, 2018, 08:02:30 PM »
It looks like you need a speed reduction to run the engine at 1400 + and the saw at 5 to 600.
you can usually can find the saw speed by running [in the air] your engine at the saw wobble speed and accelerate until the saw runs flat and note that speed. That should be the hammered speed and you cannot go below it.  the engine needs to run at maximum torque + while the saw runs at the hammered speed.  The nice thing about shaft drive is their is no pull on the mandrel compared to belt drive. there is a ud 14a rebuilt long block down here.

4 speed transmission in 2nd gear would just about do that for you.
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Offline Corley5

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #19 on: January 01, 2018, 08:15:35 PM »
  Is the drive shaft from the engine bolted directly to the mandrel or is it offset and connected with belts?  Getting 540 RPMs directly off the clutch PTO would have the engine at less than half the rated speed.  It appears that the clutch unit is a direct drive with no gear reduction internally.  That's why I ask if there's some pulleys and belts involved to change the ratio.  I'm assuming there are :) :)  Is this how the previous owner had it set up?
  I'd replace your engine's fuel filters and then check its RPMs.  There should be a setting on the injection pump to turn it up.  Get a shop manual for it too :) :)  Nice set up 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
  My Corley 5s are left handed and the mandrel can be bolted directly to a tractors PTO.  Otherwise my MM G403 and Cat D13000 used belts and pulleys to connect to the mandrel for the right RPM.  Being LH mills the radiators face the mill to get the right rotation.
 

  



 

 
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #20 on: January 02, 2018, 11:21:56 AM »
Thanks for all the replies.  Try to answer questions.

Planning on building a shed next.  Thought I'd have it done over the summer, but time flies.

I'll build a box for the PTO.  There used to be a box for it.  However, no one is really near it the way its set up on a hill above the offbearer.

I think the PTO just bolts directly to the mandrel.  I always assumed that engine was like a tractor if it was turning 1800 rpm or whatever, the PTO should be turning 540 rpm.  Its set up just like the previous owner had it.  He just hadn't run it in awhile and I haven't run it much either since I've got it going. 

I had that engine sitting almost a year and it fired right up so it needs a little maintenance.

Offline Gearbox

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #21 on: January 02, 2018, 03:01:49 PM »
See if you can get it to idle low enough to get the blade to wobble . then come up from there . let us know what happens .
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #22 on: January 02, 2018, 03:13:58 PM »
As Corley mentioned your running the engine too slowly probably half speed. To realize the engines potential you will need to belt it so the engine is in its power band and that can't be done direct drive. Frank C.
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Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #23 on: January 02, 2018, 07:11:51 PM »
Looked at the video again,  hard to be certain but right around 7:20 in the video it looks like the output shaft is not in line with the blade,  also, there appears to be wood covers with letters
covering????  (pulleys?) 

Also what the additional lever with the knob on it for, next to the carriage F&R lever ?

D




Offline loganworks2

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #24 on: January 02, 2018, 08:09:06 PM »
If you look at .18 seconds and again @ .29 you can see that the drive shaft enters the box cover near the right end of the cover. Then there is a second shaft near the left end of the cover that apears to be the saw blade shaft.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #25 on: January 02, 2018, 09:05:20 PM »
Yes, you guys are right.  I had forgotten.

I took the cover off today.  The PTO shaft runs in and then V belts over to the pulley on the mandrel.  Not sure the diameter off hand at least 12 inches or more.  Looks like at least a 3:1 ratio.

The other lever with the knob is for the log turner.

Offline Corley5

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #26 on: January 02, 2018, 09:20:42 PM »
That ratio would be right for that engine rated at 1,400 RPMs.  Is the engine running at that speed ???
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #27 on: January 02, 2018, 09:34:22 PM »
Not sure.  Going to clean the air filter, change fuel filters and go from there.  Was 0 here this morning.  Hate to start old engines in this weather.  And had broken pipes to fix today.

Offline Gearbox

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #28 on: January 02, 2018, 09:54:53 PM »
That will change things .
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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #29 on: January 03, 2018, 08:15:01 AM »
I think you'll find that new fuel filters will make a BIG difference :) 
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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #30 on: January 03, 2018, 08:32:51 AM »
So you do have a speed reduction. This is good.  If you can get the engine to perform and the mandrel and collars are good, it's going to be small inexpensive things to figure out and fix. The filing and lead are very important on any sawmill.

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #31 on: January 03, 2018, 06:16:43 PM »
Good news Rig,

when you go back to the mill measure all your pulleys'
and if you can, get a tachometer reading on the motor
when you have it running well.  This will allow you to
compute your true blade Surface Feet Per Minute.

Also how many teeth?

Assuming 1400 RPM and a 3.1 reduction= 467 RPM. 
I believe that is too slow (5866 SFPM).

good luck,

D






Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #32 on: January 03, 2018, 06:41:33 PM »
Ok, so cleaned the air cleaner out tonight.  Was pretty filthy.  Didn't try to run it yet. 

Next will be change oil and do the fuel filters.

The pulley coming off of the pto shaft is about a 7 3/4 to 7 7/8 diameter.  This is connected to the pulley on the mandrel by a 3 rib V belt.  That pulley is about 20 1/2 inches.    So I'm figuring (correct me if I'm wrong) is about a 2.6:1 ratio. 

So the engine should run 1400 rpm and the saw 538 rpm or close to 540 rpm.  Does this sound right?

Is a 3 rib belt good enough for the power?   Thought I read somewhere you needed one belt for every 20 hp. If my engine has 75 or so hp does it need 4 belts?

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #33 on: January 03, 2018, 06:52:22 PM »
That is too slow especially for a 48" saw With a lot of teeth. However in the old days they would run even slower because of lack of power. I have sawed with less than 40 hp, slow speed and slow feed.  The hardest part is getting a saw hammered stiff enough to go slow [down to 250 rpm] but that's what they used to do.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #34 on: January 03, 2018, 06:54:09 PM »
What about removing every 3rd or 4th tooth from the saw ?
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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #35 on: January 03, 2018, 07:02:22 PM »
Oh boy, not enough belts and small pulleys.  I run 6 C belts on a 9" driving a 24"  with 75 hp  electric.  75 hp diesel is not the same and you could get by with 4 C belts with at least a 9"  driver. Now that the pulleys are made in China they are much less expensive than formally.

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #36 on: January 03, 2018, 07:07:40 PM »
      Or put every other tooth in new. [considering they will be longer]  This will double the power but the saw will tend to dodge knots and other tough spots in the log.                           

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #37 on: January 03, 2018, 08:34:06 PM »
What speed does it need to be?

I have a couple other saw blades.  They are 2 1/2 style though.  I know one is a 48 inch with 44 teeth.

Every one I've talked to says that a 48 inch blade with 48 teeth is strange at least around here.  Most would have had a lot less teeth.  What is that blade supposed to be used with?

If I put a bigger pulley on the mandrel with 4 -6 grooves in it can I put a Detroit on it?   A guy not far from me has a 3-71 with a 3:1 advantage with 4 belts. Obviously, his saws a lot faster.


Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #38 on: January 03, 2018, 08:35:55 PM »
What kind of tach do I need exactly?

Offline Southside logger

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #39 on: January 03, 2018, 08:46:34 PM »
I have one that is pretty simple to use.  Just attach a small square of reflective tape to the drive shaft, turn on the unit and point it at the shaft.  It would work on your saw blade just the same. The flashing light bounces off the tape and gives you a digital readout of the RPM. 

There are also Apps that kind of replicate the same thing using the LED on your phone, not quite as good as an actual tach, but it would probably get you an pretty good idea of where you are at. 
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Offline Corley5

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #40 on: January 03, 2018, 10:07:37 PM »
  My tach is an old mechanical that you hold against the center end of the shaft.  I ran my 50" style 3 @ 500RPMs with the 403 MM and at 540 with the 706.  I forget how many teeth it has. 
  The last I sawed with the MM it wasn't pretty.  I thought it was the saw although I knew the engine wasn't up to par.  The saw wouldn't stay up.  The engine blew a head gasket and was spewing fire between the head and block and that was the end of it.  I rounded up a PTO shaft and hooked up the 706.  Night and day difference.
  Someday I'll get it set up again.  I like to saw :) good logs ;) ;D :)
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Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #41 on: January 04, 2018, 05:51:36 AM »
Number of teeth in a saw has to do with diameter and the style of shank you're using.  An F pattern saw will have more teeth, because the gullet size is smaller.  Its been awhile since I run an F, but I'm thinking my 56" saw had 50 teeth.  The B pattern had 46.  The shank style is stamped onto the shank.  If you have a letter B or F, that's designed mainly for hardwoods.  The numbered ones like 2 1/2, 3, or 3 1/2 are for softwoods. 

I've seen a 371 Detroit on small mills.  4 belts would be an absolute minimum for a mill.  I've used the dial tach like Corley describes.  Works well and maybe you could borrow one from another mill.  I've also seen the light one used and you can pick them up pretty cheap on Ebay. 

I don't know if you've looked at Lunstrum's manual on circle mills that was written for the Forest Service.  It has a ton of information in it, and will help you answer a lot of questions.  It's free and here's the link:

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #42 on: January 04, 2018, 06:29:25 AM »
Thanks.  I think mine is F style shank.  Its hard to read on the shank. I have a mix of winter and summer shanks.  Does that matter?

I have that book printed out.  I just haven't been sure if I should be changing my setup yet.

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #43 on: January 04, 2018, 06:55:31 AM »
I don't think mixing the shanks makes too much of a difference if they're spaced out evenly.  I don't think that a summer shank and a winter shank weigh the same.  Too many of one type on one side could put your saw out of balance. 

I ran all winter shanks and summer bits all the time.  What will happen if you have a winter shank and a standall bit is that you reduce the gullet size of your saw.  You can overload your saw and you'll hang your blade.  Or your dust will spill out of the gullets and it can push your saw and cause heat. 

Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #44 on: January 04, 2018, 07:07:48 AM »
Thanks for all the help.

I had a box of standalls I wanted to put on but I think it was from reading your posts on here I knew I shouldn't put them on the winter shanks.   

I wasn't sure what I should be running when I realized I had a mix of summer and winter.   

My mill has been put together over the years by folks just making do with what they had at the time and trying to make a living.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #45 on: January 04, 2018, 09:40:17 AM »
Rig, You have a lot of useful equipment on your mill.  When you get it all fixed up and get into the rhythm of sawing, with some nice logs, you will wear out 2 men trying to take the lumber and slabs away.

Offline HPPDRoss

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #46 on: January 11, 2018, 10:56:47 AM »
Ive got an old semi truck with a 671 and a 10 speed transmission connected to my mill. I just cut the frame off at the back of the cab, cut the driveshaft and ran a pto shaft from the truck to the mill. It was alot cheaper for me doing it this way than buying a power unit. Just my 2 cents

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #47 on: January 11, 2018, 01:59:08 PM »
Thanks.  I may have to do something like that.   

I just finished cleaning air cleaner, fuel filters and changing the oil. 

Ran a poplar log through and it was cutting a lot faster.  Didn't lose power at all really compared to what it was doing.

 I still have air in my lines though.   I feel like if I could figure that out I'd have all the power I'd need for awhile.  At least to cut enough lumber for a mill shed.

I'm going to keep an eye out for a 4-71 I think though.


Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #48 on: January 12, 2018, 08:15:48 PM »
Sounds like you're heading the right way Rigg,

I would also keep an eye open for a 53 Series Detroit
or an air cooled Deutz.  The Deutz will use less fuel and be
quieter, 

Best

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #49 on: January 13, 2018, 07:24:27 AM »
For a power unit keep your eyes open for an old shovel or crane, they had modular power units and most have had good duty throughout their life. Also they have good governors which is very important. Frank C.
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Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #50 on: January 13, 2018, 07:40:07 AM »
For a power unit keep your eyes open for an old shovel or crane, they had modular power units and most have had good duty throughout their life. Also they have good governors which is very important. Frank C.

That is very good info,
Thanks bandmiller2

D

Offline starmac

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #51 on: January 13, 2018, 03:12:58 PM »
I can't help on the saw, but did mess with those engines some years back.
You may already know this, but those engines will start a lot easier if you turn them back over to gas and clear the diesel out of the cylinders before shutting it down for the day.
We used to have to pull start a lot of equipment when operators did not change them back over, hard to pull start a saw.
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