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Author Topic: Frick 00 Circle Saw  (Read 2970 times)

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Offline Corley5

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #40 on: January 03, 2018, 10:07:37 PM »
  My tach is an old mechanical that you hold against the center end of the shaft.  I ran my 50" style 3 @ 500RPMs with the 403 MM and at 540 with the 706.  I forget how many teeth it has. 
  The last I sawed with the MM it wasn't pretty.  I thought it was the saw although I knew the engine wasn't up to par.  The saw wouldn't stay up.  The engine blew a head gasket and was spewing fire between the head and block and that was the end of it.  I rounded up a PTO shaft and hooked up the 706.  Night and day difference.
  Someday I'll get it set up again.  I like to saw :) good logs ;) ;D :)
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Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #41 on: January 04, 2018, 05:51:36 AM »
Number of teeth in a saw has to do with diameter and the style of shank you're using.  An F pattern saw will have more teeth, because the gullet size is smaller.  Its been awhile since I run an F, but I'm thinking my 56" saw had 50 teeth.  The B pattern had 46.  The shank style is stamped onto the shank.  If you have a letter B or F, that's designed mainly for hardwoods.  The numbered ones like 2 1/2, 3, or 3 1/2 are for softwoods. 

I've seen a 371 Detroit on small mills.  4 belts would be an absolute minimum for a mill.  I've used the dial tach like Corley describes.  Works well and maybe you could borrow one from another mill.  I've also seen the light one used and you can pick them up pretty cheap on Ebay. 

I don't know if you've looked at Lunstrum's manual on circle mills that was written for the Forest Service.  It has a ton of information in it, and will help you answer a lot of questions.  It's free and here's the link:

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf
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Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #42 on: January 04, 2018, 06:29:25 AM »
Thanks.  I think mine is F style shank.  Its hard to read on the shank. I have a mix of winter and summer shanks.  Does that matter?

I have that book printed out.  I just haven't been sure if I should be changing my setup yet.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #43 on: January 04, 2018, 06:55:31 AM »
I don't think mixing the shanks makes too much of a difference if they're spaced out evenly.  I don't think that a summer shank and a winter shank weigh the same.  Too many of one type on one side could put your saw out of balance. 

I ran all winter shanks and summer bits all the time.  What will happen if you have a winter shank and a standall bit is that you reduce the gullet size of your saw.  You can overload your saw and you'll hang your blade.  Or your dust will spill out of the gullets and it can push your saw and cause heat. 

Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #44 on: January 04, 2018, 07:07:48 AM »
Thanks for all the help.

I had a box of standalls I wanted to put on but I think it was from reading your posts on here I knew I shouldn't put them on the winter shanks.   

I wasn't sure what I should be running when I realized I had a mix of summer and winter.   

My mill has been put together over the years by folks just making do with what they had at the time and trying to make a living.

Online moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #45 on: January 04, 2018, 09:40:17 AM »
Rig, You have a lot of useful equipment on your mill.  When you get it all fixed up and get into the rhythm of sawing, with some nice logs, you will wear out 2 men trying to take the lumber and slabs away.

Offline HPPDRoss

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #46 on: January 11, 2018, 10:56:47 AM »
Ive got an old semi truck with a 671 and a 10 speed transmission connected to my mill. I just cut the frame off at the back of the cab, cut the driveshaft and ran a pto shaft from the truck to the mill. It was alot cheaper for me doing it this way than buying a power unit. Just my 2 cents

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #47 on: January 11, 2018, 01:59:08 PM »
Thanks.  I may have to do something like that.   

I just finished cleaning air cleaner, fuel filters and changing the oil. 

Ran a poplar log through and it was cutting a lot faster.  Didn't lose power at all really compared to what it was doing.

 I still have air in my lines though.   I feel like if I could figure that out I'd have all the power I'd need for awhile.  At least to cut enough lumber for a mill shed.

I'm going to keep an eye out for a 4-71 I think though.


Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #48 on: January 12, 2018, 08:15:48 PM »
Sounds like you're heading the right way Rigg,

I would also keep an eye open for a 53 Series Detroit
or an air cooled Deutz.  The Deutz will use less fuel and be
quieter, 

Best

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #49 on: January 13, 2018, 07:24:27 AM »
For a power unit keep your eyes open for an old shovel or crane, they had modular power units and most have had good duty throughout their life. Also they have good governors which is very important. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #50 on: January 13, 2018, 07:40:07 AM »
For a power unit keep your eyes open for an old shovel or crane, they had modular power units and most have had good duty throughout their life. Also they have good governors which is very important. Frank C.

That is very good info,
Thanks bandmiller2

D

Offline starmac

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Re: Frick 00 Circle Saw
« Reply #51 on: January 13, 2018, 03:12:58 PM »
I can't help on the saw, but did mess with those engines some years back.
You may already know this, but those engines will start a lot easier if you turn them back over to gas and clear the diesel out of the cylinders before shutting it down for the day.
We used to have to pull start a lot of equipment when operators did not change them back over, hard to pull start a saw.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.


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