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Author Topic: Air drying lap siding  (Read 2364 times)

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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2018, 05:57:34 PM »
I've sawn quite a bit of "Live-Edge" siding, in this area most people refer to it as "Adirondack Siding"!
~Chuck~
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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2018, 06:21:32 PM »
If some one says Adirondack siding [and that's what I call it] I know what they mean but up north the sawmillers  call it 'brain storm' or 'barn storm' siding.  Lane tech, a former lane sawmill builder, would put a tilt dog attachment to cut brainstorm siding. One of the owners of this firm told me while reading a book about Adirondack camps of long ago he found this term mentioned.

Online Peter Drouin

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2018, 08:22:55 PM »
That's what I cut too, Mr White
 

 
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Offline fishfighter

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #23 on: January 08, 2018, 07:55:25 AM »
I sawed up some for my sawmill shack. Oak, and I installed green. What I found out was not to saw with in 2" of the pith. The boards I did saw close had split a little.

 

 

 

 

I do have to saw up some that is 6" wide for my SIL to replace some boards on a old house he is rebuilding. It will be out of SYP and it will have to be stickered and air dry. So I was thinking of just stacking and stickering single stacks and band them. That should keep them from warping as they dry.

Offline Lawg Dawg

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #24 on: January 08, 2018, 01:55:09 PM »
 

 

I like to use Adirondack siding on hunting blinds...blends good with nature after it weather's a bit
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Offline starmac

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #25 on: January 08, 2018, 02:30:18 PM »
When you guys make the Adirondack siding, I take it you do not taper saw it?
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Online Peter Drouin

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #26 on: January 08, 2018, 06:39:38 PM »
I cut mine 3/4"x 8" to 10" wide. I sell a 2"x3/4" starter strip for the bottom of the wall. That kicks it out. I sell my full 2" lumber for the trim around doors and windows. That way you have a 1/2" reveal on the trim.
I tell my customers to only nail the top. [hang it] Then make a pencil line at the bottom of the board. Go look and see how far the wood is away from the mark. Week or two.  Make another mark.
When the wood stops moving, Nail the bottom with ring shank nails.
All W Pine.
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
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And a license NH soft wood grader.
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Offline thecfarm

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #27 on: January 08, 2018, 06:55:37 PM »
Good idea Peter on the pencil mark.
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Offline DeepWoods

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #28 on: January 09, 2018, 05:09:36 PM »
So I have a question regarding hanging the lap siding green.  I built a garage last year, but haven't put any lap siding on it yet.  I did sheath it with 1/2" OSB, and there is Tyvek over the OSB to protect it till I get some siding on it.  My question is will I have moisture problems if I now hang the lap siding directly over the Tyvek?   My concern is there will be no way for the moisture to escape from the back side and will cause things to rot.  Don't know if it makes a difference, but it would be Red Pine lap siding cut 8" wide with a 2" overlap.  My gut says cut and dry then hang, but it would be nice to not have to handle the siding more than once.  What say you?
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Offline Lawg Dawg

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Re: Air drying lap siding
« Reply #29 on: January 09, 2018, 08:49:34 PM »
So I have a question regarding hanging the lap siding green.  I built a garage last year, but haven't put any lap siding on it yet.  I did sheath it with 1/2" OSB, and there is Tyvek over the OSB to protect it till I get some siding on it.  My question is will I have moisture problems if I now hang the lap siding directly over the Tyvek?   My concern is there will be no way for the moisture to escape from the back side and will cause things to rot.  Don't know if it makes a difference, but it would be Red Pine lap siding cut 8" wide with a 2" overlap.  My gut says cut and dry then hang, but it would be nice to not have to handle the siding more than once.  What say you?

I generally like to let it dry for a bit,  but green works too if you put the nail in the right spot. Face nail 2 1/2" up from the bottom of the board with at least a 3" ring shank into the studs. It important to make sure you hit solid wood with each nail,  not just the osb.  Hand drive nails would be best.
LT 40 Wide 999cc
John Deere 4000, Husky 268, 394xp, Shindiawa 591, 2 Railroad jacks, and a comealong.

True South Sawmill Lumber,  located  approximately 45 miles south of Charlotte, NC


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