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Author Topic: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?  (Read 1922 times)

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Offline StoneCreek

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2018, 09:06:15 PM »
OH! I see the hole is kinda centered in the apex of the arch.
So am I going to be able to replace these things or no?

Offline Corley5

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2018, 11:26:22 PM »
Menominee Saw, a forum sponsor over on the left, will set you right up :) 8)
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Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2018, 07:01:12 AM »
You'll need a saw wrench to take out the shanks.  I always sprayed mine down with a penetrating oil like Rust Reaper and let it sit for a while.  Makes it easier to take them out.  I also always had extra pins handy for the wrench.  They break at inopportune times.
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Offline StoneCreek

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2018, 01:25:17 PM »
Okay...UPDATE! I've found MORE numbers! AND letters!  So, in other words, the "V" I referenced in the first few posts was NOT an initial for a name.. The "v" is on the head blocks.  There is a "B 40" on the mandrel. There is an "N 289" on one side of the head block adjustment lever and an "N 290" on the other side of the same lever.  SO.. My thoughts are, this was a kit.  All the pieces were labeled and it was put together.  I still can't find and names.  I did find numbers on the bits, and shanks.  IT IS a 2 1/2 shank regular.  However, there are several sizes of bits in the shanks.  I found #8's, #9's, and atleast one #10 bit in it. Pretty sure that wont work...well. It has 44 teeth and is 42" in diameter.  I also found numbers near the eye of the saw. 

Offline dgdrls

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2018, 03:01:07 PM »
2-1/2 pattern is the smallest gullet, thus more teeth.  You'll want to
get set-up with a matched set of bits and shanks.

What was the number at the saw eye?.

Best

D

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2018, 04:30:21 PM »
Numbers on the saw should give you how the saw was originally manufactured.  They usually include a L or R to indicate how it was originally hammered.  Also will have a RPM number, and a serial number. 

The numbers on the carriage and the like may be that you have parts of a bunch of mills that are put together to make a mill.  Nothing wrong with that, as most mills function the same.  Usually a mfg had all their parts start with a letter that signifies the company.  I don't know where you would find that listing. 
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Offline StoneCreek

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #26 on: January 07, 2018, 09:16:13 PM »
Numbers on the saw

Offline doghunter

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #27 on: January 07, 2018, 09:35:37 PM »
That's actually a really good mill to drive directly from a tractor pto. just hook the pto shaft directly to the mandrel.The saw is a 2&1/2 pattern it's a pine saw perfect for sawing medium sized pine logs. bits and shanks are readily available If you change saws the new saw will have to be hammered for a left hand mill.Good luck.

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #28 on: January 07, 2018, 11:00:04 PM »
From what I can make out thats a 8/9 gauge saw. I don't know what the other number is.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota, 160 Prentice, Frick 2 saw gang edger, Wright W-37 ABG, Suffolk dual tooth setter, Cat claw single tooth setter,'96 F-250 7.3 PSD 4x4, CS-590 Echo, MF 20c, M681 Memo.

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Offline Darrel

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #29 on: January 08, 2018, 11:06:56 AM »
Welcome to the forum StoneCreek!  Looks like you have a very nice mill!
1992 LT40HD

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Offline StoneCreek

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #30 on: January 08, 2018, 08:12:07 PM »
What's the difference in regular and long tip saw bits?

Offline StoneCreek

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #31 on: January 08, 2018, 08:22:23 PM »
And chrome?

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #32 on: January 09, 2018, 05:56:48 AM »
There is a bit more steel on the long bit over the regular bit.  I went with a long bit right after they first came out.  They lasted a few more sharpenings, and they didn't need to be swaged.  They also stood up better to debris without breaking off corners.

Chrome is coated on the bits and they stay sharper for a longer time.  The problem with them is you when you need to sharpen, you will have to grind the plating off on the first sharpening.  After that, you'll be able to use a hand file.  But, the chrome will be hard on the files.  It sounds nice, but I'm not sure it is cost effective, especially for a small mill.  I used chrome on my edger saws.  I flipped back and forth with using chrome on my head saw.  But, I had a grinder to help in saw maintenance.

On your saw numbers, the 8 and 9 are the gauge of the saw.  The 9 is at the eye, and the 8 is on the rim, if I'm not mistaken.  I would think the other numbers are probably some sort of serial number. 
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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?
« Reply #33 on: January 09, 2018, 08:10:39 AM »
The problem with long bits is the manufacturing. They are some times distorted off to one side and not repairable.  Chrome is my favorite [in regular] used with super shanks. I file with a diamond file mounted in a hack saw frame and use the Dexter file guide. Although I have several electric grinders and use them also, the file guide is more accurate. When the chrome bits get narrow I swage and side file, otherwise it wouldn't  pay. Your 2 1/2 saw may need stand all bits to get started.  Does your mandrel have babit  bearings?


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