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Author Topic: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks  (Read 1116 times)

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Offline Rigg

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Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« on: January 11, 2018, 06:10:47 AM »
I have a question about how much play, if any, is acceptable in the knees on my mill. 

I was reading the forest service circle mill manual the other night and it has a picture of 2 guys tightening the slack between the gears in the headblocks.

So I went down to check mine the next day and sure enough, the first headblock I can pull toward the saw 3/8th of an inch.   The 2nd about 1/4 inch and the third maybe an 1/8th.

Now you can't push back on them at all. They are tight there.   

I was going run some test logs and do some measuring to see if it mattered.  I thought I'd ask here first.

I didn't see an adjustment on my mill for that. 

Obviously my mill is worn so is this something I have to live with? 

I wasn't sure if the saw is pulling away from the headblocks or pushing in after the lead is taken into account.   If its pushing in, I guess it wouldn't matter.  Maybe its neither, I don't know.

Thanks

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2018, 07:57:03 AM »
Rigg, in a perfect world we would have no slack,  alas we do in this one. Almost everything on a handset mill is adjustable, if it isn't you take up the slack always in the same direction. My mill is different than yours as I have a set beam with the headblocks mounted. The old timers were clever in their design, I'm sure others will be along with asjustment instructions. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2018, 08:10:04 AM »
Rigg, your headblocks have a rack and pinion design. To reduce slack you must ether shim the rack or adjust the pinion bearings to increase tooth contact. Use discretion as if everything is rusted tight you can do damage freeing it. I would try it as is, old machines be it mill or lathe have slack, you always back off more than needed and take up the slack always in the same direction. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2018, 08:31:44 AM »
With everything cleaned and oiled and a log or timber dogged all the slack should be back. the racks could be worn in some spots more than others so if the slack is removed in a worn place you will bind up in another place. Just because you can't get all the slack out doesn't mean it won't cut accurate lumber. Remember on a circle mill the mandrel is everything.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2018, 08:33:14 AM »
Thanks.  Yes, its rack and pinion. 

I guess that's my main question.  If you always back off and take up the slack coming into the saw..does it matter?

Or will the saw pull them toward it?

Offline Gearbox

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2018, 09:59:24 AM »
Adjust on the shaft to make them all even pushed back . Once the log is on all the forces are toward the saw . I would be afraid to measure mine .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2018, 02:02:02 PM »
Yeah it seems like with the force being toward the saw it would pull the headblocks over a bit. 

Seems like its better to not think about it and just saw.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2018, 06:57:58 PM »
There's adjustments on most of those Fricks 00.  There should be 2 nuts on the top of the ell which is the adjustment for the headblock.  I believe they attach to the rack underneath it.  Loosen them up, and you can move the headblock in or out.  It may have slipped over the years. 

If you're going to adjust your blocks you want to take the headblocks back, then advance them to put the pressure on the rack.  That's how you will be using it.  Measure each headblock to the same tooth on the saw and the saw being in the same position.  Tighten the nuts back up.  Your headblocks will be in line.

If your cutting wedges after that, it is somewhere else than the headblocks. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2018, 08:09:07 PM »
Thanks,

I can also adjust mine using the shaft in the back.  There's bolts that have a slot and then holes that you can adjust each head block individually.  I wasn't sure which way you're supposed to be adjusting.

After all that though, if you grab the ell and pull it toward you it'll come in the above mentioned distances.

So still wondering if the saw will pull it in or not?

Sawed some today but forgot the tape measure.  I couldn't visually see any wedge shaped boards. 

Offline Bert

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2018, 08:25:15 PM »
Back off and take the slack up toward the saw. It cant go back at that point. The adjustments in the back are for getting the headblocks in line. It shouldn't pull toward the saw. Possible.. but if your saw is aligned right it wont. There will always be some slack. The key is get the saw right so it doesnt try to saw into or away from your dog board. All is right with the world when it rips on through with no cant movement. If its moving a half inch or more, yeah theres a serious wear issue but the a little movement pulled out toward the saw is no big deal.
Saw you tomorrow!

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2018, 05:53:12 AM »
You would have to pull the whole log towards the saw.  When things get dogged in, not much moves.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2018, 06:28:16 AM »
Ok, thanks.  Not going to worry about it. I can't see it moving.

Now I'm a little dense.  Are you supposed to adjust the headblocks using the 2 bolts on the top of the ell or the shaft in the back?

Or is putting the headblocks "in line" different than setting the distance to the saw?

I used the shaft in the back to do both.  I think when mine were in line they were all the same distance from the saw anyway.

6 months ago I started to adjust them by unbolting the ell but for some reason at that time I didn't think it'd work.  Don't remember now.  Maybe it was moving it to much.


Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2018, 12:14:09 PM »
I don't see how there is an adjustment on the shaft.  If you move the shaft at one headblock, I would think you would have to move all the headblocks so the shaft is parallel.  Otherwise, you'll get a bind on them.  The headblocks are designed to be moved.  Some guys lagged them down, but I worked with some where they moved the headblocks on the carriage. 

The 2 bolts on the ell is how you adjust the 00 Frick headblock.  An area of wear could be in the key on the shaft.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #13 on: January 12, 2018, 09:33:12 PM »
I need a picture to describe the shaft.  I'm not looking at it this second, but I think its not a continuous shaft. 

It mates up at each headblock with an adjustable coupling. That's the best way I can describe it. 

It also has the 2 bolts on the ells.

The key is definitely worn.  Half the slack comes from that I think.   Is that something that would be available still?  Or just have to find scrap parts to fix?

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2018, 05:07:56 AM »
When Frick ended production in Waynesboro, PA, they sold all the rights and prints to Carthage Machine.  They later sold all that to Albright Saw.  They still sell and make Frick sawmills.  You might find new parts from them. 

http://www.fricksawmills.com/

As for used parts, D&D Sawmill Services in Chambersburg, PA is probably your best bet.  They know a bunch about all those old Fricks. 

http://ddsawmillservices.com/

If the key is worn, you can get key stock at most any hardware store. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline Rigg

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Re: Frick 00 circle mill slack in the headblocks
« Reply #15 on: July 28, 2018, 05:51:23 AM »
Posted in the wrong thread.


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