The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.




Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Nyle Kiln Dry Systems

Chainsawr, The Worlds Largest Inventory of Chainsaw Parts





Author Topic: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.  (Read 55296 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« on: May 21, 2006, 12:34:51 PM »
This didnt fit in the Mods or Usefull things.  So I decided to make a new post of How tos and tips on mill maintenance.  Addm if youve gotm. 

The head on a Wood-Mizer mill rolls back and forth on cam roller bearings.  Ive had replace a couple of bearings on the mills weve had earlier because the needle bearings had worn out. 

On this mill,  a 2002 LT40 Super with 2500+ hours on it,  Ive checked them from time to time and noted wear but . They were still rollin so I didnt get too worried about the upcoming replacement.   I did have a stock of extra new cam bearings if one did fail.



I dont know how much wear is too much but it looked like it was time to replace the ones on the top and side so I did that today.  I thought Id take a few pictures to show how I went about doing it.

Its not a hard job and only takes a couple of minutes.  Finding the right combination of tools to get into the tight places is somewhat of a challenge.



Start by raising the head so you can work under it.   The weight needs to be taken off the head.  I did this by propping up the cantilever head with a long pry bar.


 
I used a splitting wedge to lift the head off the track but about any thing wedge shaped could be used.  It only takes a little.  I did one side at a time.

The cam bearing number and arrangement on you Wood-Mizer may be different than the ones on our 2002 Super.  But it looks like the cam bearings are the same.  The LT70 takes larger cam bearings and are said to last much longer.

This would be the same method youd use to check to see if the needle bearings were still working. Of course,  you wouldnt have to take the cam bearing off,  you can just try rolling the bearing with your fingers.   They should roll smooth and easy. Youll know right away if they are froze, welded up, or just worn out.   

It's also a good idea from time to time to removed the cam roller covers and move the head back and forth to see if they are rolling nice and smooth.  If one is locked up,  it's time to replace it.

I checked the cam bearings on the bottom side.  There are two.  One showed only slight wear and the other a little more than slight.  Ill check them again another day.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline John_Haylow

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 385
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Bracebridge Ontario
  • Gender: Male
  • "If you are going through hell, keep going." W.C.
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2006, 01:11:54 PM »
Bibbyman.
I think this is a good topic and will be of great benefit for a soon to be new sawyer like myself as well as most others here.

I'm sorry that I don't have anything to contribute as of yet but hopefully  I will get there.

John
2004 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG28

Offline WH_Conley

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 4086
  • Age: 63
  • Location: Camp Dix, Ky.
  • Gender: Male
  • I need to tide my profile!
    • Share Post
    • Stone Hill Hardwoods
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2006, 01:47:00 PM »
Sometimes those bearings will just get dry of grease. Pop the front seal out, wash them in gas or solvent. I have a needle that chucks in a grease gun that I use to lube them. Don't imagine that you would notice the jerking that they do on a Super near as much as a regular mill.
Bill

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2006, 02:08:11 PM »
BTW, 

Any time you change out the cam bearings,  the head adjustment needs to be checked.  When I checked the blade height after the change,  it was about 1/4" higher.   :o

The old style cam bearings had grease zerks.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline BBTom

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 793
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Anderson, Missouri
  • Gender: Male
  • Retired, If building a new homestead is retired.
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2006, 06:14:52 PM »
The cam rollers were replaced on my mill during the platinum service at 2600 hours.

I was told that the groove that wears in them can actually misform the outer race of the needle bearing thereby causing problems.  Mine looked just about like yours, Bibby, if not a bit worse.  Mine are carrying the 42 HP Kubota Diesel, probably a bit heavier than the 25HP electric motor.   

Ilooks like 2500 hours would be a good time to replace them on 40 supers. 
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2006, 06:16:59 PM »
Ive posted this maintenance procedure a number of years ago but I did a bad thing and linked the pictures to a free photo album.  That free photo album has went away so now the links no longer work.   So Ill post it here again.

This from a post I made June 9, 2001 (This time with pictures that wont go away)

We usually watch and maintain our two Wood-Mizer mills pretty good.  But last week Mary noted oil dripping out of our LT40HDG35 Super.  I took a look and the oil was coming out where the oil drain tube connected to the fitting on the engine.  The tube had been smashed against the motor frame.  No big problem.  I'd just drain the oil and cut the tube off a little bit and put it back on and put in new oil.  About half way done and I noted the reason why the tube had been crushed - the motor mount bushings were all squished out.

I got with Wood-Mizer and they sent me out some aluminum bushings.  The part number is 016380 for my mill.  Apparently they have found that the Wisconsin engine is too heavy for the rubber bushings.  At about $12    each, they are not cheep but I'd expect them to last.    Note that these bushings may not be what is listed in your owner's manual - you may have to ask for them.

You may want to keep an eye on your bushings and replace them before they go out and your down until you can get new ones.

If I did this right,  here are some pictures of the bushing swap.  A couple shows how I held the engine up while I changed the bushings out.  Worked out well.



If you can see in the picture well enough,  the rubber bushing has "squished" out and let the motor fall down about 1/4".  Note that the oil drain fitting is resting on the mount frame.



I figured out how to use the mill's own up/down head power to slightly lift the engine off the mounts so they could be replaced.

A 4x4 is placed over the top of the head frame and secured on one end with a load binder. The other side has a smaller load binder attached to the engine. Then the head is lowered and thus the engine weight is removed. Worked well.



Here is a picture of the other side that shows the strap around the engine.



Here are the old rubber bushings that were all beat out.



Here are a set of new bushings ready to install.



Here I'm fine tuning the engine to mount possition so I can slip the new bushing into place.



 


Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2006, 06:20:26 PM »
The cam rollers were replaced on my mill during the platinum service at 2600 hours.

I was told that the groove that wears in them can actually misform the outer race of the needle bearing thereby causing problems.  Mine looked just about like yours, Bibby, if not a bit worse.  Mine are carrying the 42 HP Kubota Diesel, probably a bit heavier than the 25HP electric motor.   

Ilooks like 2500 hours would be a good time to replace them on 40 supers. 

BBTom,  how did the professionals at Wood-Mizer go about changing the cam bushing? 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline BBTom

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 793
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Anderson, Missouri
  • Gender: Male
  • Retired, If building a new homestead is retired.
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2006, 06:29:20 PM »
Just about the same way as you did, Bibby, but they did not bother propping up the outside end of the head. 

Since I was there helping, there was an extra set of hands.  After the nuts were loose, I pryed up the head ( same spot you had the wedge) with a long pry bar while he replaced the rollers.  Please note that we were in a bit of a hurry due to the replacement of the main drive bearing, and Otto wanted to go home and I wanted to get back on the road. 

It was great to get everything taken care of in one day and be back sawing the next.  I only live 4 hours from Indy, which made it possible.  I might note also that I had called Gene on Monday to set up an appointment, and he just happened to have a slot open on Tuesday.  Is that fantastic service or what?
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2006, 06:40:47 PM »
Did they also replace the top side cam rollers too?  If not, maybe that's how they could do it without lifting the head.  Or... maybe I didn't have to.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline BBTom

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 793
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Anderson, Missouri
  • Gender: Male
  • Retired, If building a new homestead is retired.
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2006, 06:59:07 PM »
Nope,  just the top ones. and checked the rest.  I think there is plenty of clearance because you just have to take the weight off of them and clear the groove worn in them to pull them out.

Oh yea, I learned that when tightening the rocker with the two rollers on 40 supers, don't forget to put the weight of the head on it first, so the rocker is level. 
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2006, 08:06:05 PM »
Oh yea, I learned that when tightening the rocker with the two rollers on 40 supers, don't forget to put the weight of the head on it first, so the rocker is level. 

OH! NO!  :o  I didn't think to do that.   :'( 

I guess it'll work to just loosen the bolt and let it find its own level and then retighten it.

Thanks for adding that tip.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2006, 06:01:26 PM »


If you examine our mill closely youll note some scratch marks here and there that look like they were made on purpose.   Well,  they were.   There are about a half dozen on our mill that I made to mark where I started making adjustments.  That way if I go too far or the wrong direction,  I can have a place to start over or judge from to make another adjustment.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline Kelvin

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 663
  • Age: 49
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #12 on: May 23, 2006, 06:57:13 PM »
I've been wondering how many hours people get on a couple of items.

The back up bearings on the blade guides?

The tires?

What other items need to be watched out for besides the head bearings?

Offline BBTom

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 793
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Anderson, Missouri
  • Gender: Male
  • Retired, If building a new homestead is retired.
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2006, 10:12:10 PM »
I have one blade guide roller that is almost 1000 hours old and still fine.  I have gone thru two on the other side in that time.  I use the greasable ones, give them one shot every 4 hours on the hour meter and they last a long time.  The roller on the adjustable side seems to take more of a beating from sawyer not moving it far enough out and letting it drag on the cant, or hit the guide, things like that.  I rebuild mine with new bearings that I get from BDI.  I just pop off the inside seal when installing them and make certain not to lose the very thin washer that has a slot cut in it that is between the two bearings.  It allows the grease to get into the bearings.

Used one of my spares to replace the brushes in a friends 40 hyd just yesterday, he says he has 2600 hours on it.  I better order another set of brushes for mine.  Knowing my luck they will both die the same day.

I replace the blade tires when they need it, never really kept track of hour meter readings on them.

2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

Offline sparks

  • Sponsor
  • *
  • Posts: 643
  • Age: 66
  • Location: Indianapolis,Indiana
  • Gender: Male
  • Woodmizer Electrical Tech
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #14 on: May 24, 2006, 10:49:13 AM »
Here's one we get a lot of questions on. Refilling the blade tensioner. I've attached a document with instructions.
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

Offline jpgreen

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1740
  • Age: 117
  • Gender: Male
  • My Boy- Snoopy Dogbone Green
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2006, 12:05:37 PM »
Bibby-

Are those aluminum bushings Woodmizer?
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2006, 12:48:58 PM »
Bibby-

Are those aluminum bushings Woodmizer?

Yep.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Offline woodmills1

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 5188
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Hudson, NH
  • Gender: Male
  • the truth shall set you free
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2006, 08:09:16 PM »
my roller bearings used to need frequent replacement, mill is 93, but the newer black ones seem to last much longer.  Yes, when you do replace the rollers readjust the height.  I also once had to recheck the drive chain placement on the roller it goes over under.   Have done most motor brushes also by now.  My blade guides are still doin it every day with a shot of grease first thing and at lunch.  Maybe I should do a hydraulic oil flush its been since like 95 when I broke a velocity fuse.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Offline Grawulf

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 254
  • Age: 65
  • Location: Savannah, Ohio
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #18 on: May 24, 2006, 09:49:45 PM »
Guys,
This would seem like a good place to ask.............for you that have hydraulics, how often do you change out fluid and filter?

Offline Bibbyman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 11418
  • Age: 69
  • Location: In the middle of things
  • Gender: Male
  • Pro-Sawyer Mary and Bibbyman
    • Share Post
    • Warden Sawmill
Re: Sawmill maintenance how tos and tips.
« Reply #19 on: May 26, 2006, 04:42:49 PM »
Have you ever watched Norm Abram do his New Yankee Workshop show on HGTV?  If you have youll note that every time he makes some kind of frame he will say Now we have to check it for square.  And then hell measure from corner to corner and announce Thats perfect.   Aint that something?  Every thing he builds is perfectly square every time.

Well,  weve got 2600 hours plus on our 2002 Wood-Mizer and I have to say,  Ive never ran through the adjustment and alignment procedure once.  I have twinked it here and there as I seen that it needed it.  And Ive checked some critical alignments after Ive changed out some components like blade guides, etc.

After I changed out the cam rollers last weekend,  I checked the blade for level and height above the bed.  I found it needed a little change in height and thought it could use a little tip in angle. 

I made the change in height and did some sawing.  It was close and twinked it a little bit a couple of times until I was happy with it.  At all times it was close enough for the rough farm lumber we were sawing.   But I was still not happy with the level.  I could see it needed to be tipped down just the slightest little bit.

Wednesday morning I adjusted the head angle just a very little bit.  We were sawing cedar and it was a good opportunity to zone in on the fine tuning. 

Here are a couple of things I do to check to see that the mill is in good adjustment.  This has become almost second nature to watch these points to see that everything is running right.



When I turn the cant 180,  I like to come back to that blade height or just a bit higher and glide the blade over the top of the cant.  It should be parallel to the top of the cant.  If the blade is not sawing level with the bed,  it will show up here as the error will be double.





I also check the first and last board off the squared down cant to see if theyre the right width and thickness.   I check the thickness on both sides of the board.  As I was making 1-1/4 x 6 deck boards,  this one was perfect as Norm would say.

These methods of checking the mill accuracy will only work if you have a blade thats sharp and set right and a log thats free of stress.  Youll also have to take care that you have the cant clamped down tight to the bed and have no bark, etc. under it.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

question
Sawmill maintenance

Started by Forester Bob on Sawmills and Milling

3 Replies
670 Views
Last post February 26, 2016, 07:09:17 AM
by Jemclimber
xx
Sawmill maintenance day

Started by Geoff on Sawmills and Milling

3 Replies
1473 Views
Last post August 22, 2002, 08:38:14 PM
by woodman
xx
Sawmill Alignment & Maintenance and Sawing

Started by Magicman on Sawmills and Milling

55 Replies
5655 Views
Last post September 08, 2014, 12:45:45 AM
by backwoods sawyer
xx
Freezing weather sawmill and engine maintenance reminder

Started by TKehl on Sawmills and Milling

1 Replies
540 Views
Last post October 29, 2017, 04:33:54 PM
by campwags
 


Powered by EzPortal