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Author Topic: Log Setup  (Read 6468 times)

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Offline Magicman

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Log Setup
« on: March 30, 2010, 09:55:51 PM »
I'm really sticking this on here especially for some of the new sawyers.  It's so very important to align defects with the blade properly to maximize the lumber yield from a log.

Some sawyers rotate 90o, some 180o, but that really doesn't matter.  I'm just showing what can be hidden in a log that can cause you to get virtually nothing from it.  On this log, I rotated 90o.

 


The log oriented so that the check is vertical for the first face opening
 


The third face is now ready to be opened.  (The camera angle is a little screwy.)
 


The squared cant is now being sawed "through".  Notice that the huge check will disappear within 2-3 boards.
 


That check ran almost the entire length of the log.  2 boards contained the majority of the defect.
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Offline woodmills1

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2010, 10:01:13 PM »
good solid info 
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Offline customdave

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2010, 11:03:32 PM »
Thanks magicman!, from a learning sawyer....


                   Dave   8)



 Man I love this forum...just for this reason!!!
Love the smell of sawdust

Offline Chuck White

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2010, 05:38:18 AM »
It's good of you to show that kind of obstacle MM.
Took me a while when I started sawing, just to figure out how to handle checks like that!
It will work by either aligning the check vertically or horizontally when you're flipping 90.

~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer
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Offline weisyboy

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2010, 06:19:02 AM »
good job mate ;)

I do the same thing with the lucas only I align the heart (in australian hardwoods the heart is almost always like the pics you show and if its not its not allowed in structural boards as it is weaker than the rest of the log.) then saw down the the heart and "box it out" as a post 4x4, 6x6, 8x8 depending on what im cutting from the rest.

or if tehre is a bad crack away from the heart ill align so i can make a cut along the crack that way the saw kerf will remove most of the crack and we only get 1 or 2 defective boards.

good to see things are the same all over the world.

Offline sigidi

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2010, 08:15:36 AM »
what he said...

I try to roll onto my log supports and then try and spin it, so once it's loaded the defect can be contained in the least amount of boards or as Carl said the kerf can be lined up to take care of most of it. In that case I then 'start' measuring from the defect back to the left side of log in specific board sizes, then I can make sure where it will be once I get to it.
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Offline Bibbyman

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2010, 09:05:17 AM »
When we saw for grade and try to make a RR tie or beam out of the center,  I'll put it on the mill with the crack 45 from horizontal.  If the crack is not too big, it'll be left in the RR tie.  No boards lost.
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Offline ickirby

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2010, 10:44:16 AM »
When we saw for grade and try to make a RR tie or beam out of the center,  I'll put it on the mill with the crack 45 from horizontal.  If the crack is not too big, it'll be left in the RR tie.  No boards lost.

I agree with Bibbyman.  If you put the crack (read knots, rot, check etc...) on a 45 to the blade then the defect will just end up in the edgings pile.

Offline JBritt

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2010, 03:27:58 PM »
Thanks for the info. Magicman.  Also I noticed your trailer setup w/winch in your pics.  I was wondering to myself how I could haul some timber home once I actually breakdown and buy a sawmill.  How long is your trailer?  I have a 6x10 with a 3500lb. axle.  I was concerned about the length but I suppose I could always take the gate off of the back when hauling longer pieces.  Does this sound "doable" to you?

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2010, 07:18:12 PM »
Ditto on the 45.  If I put the crack on the corner of my boards, I can edge them out and get a better grade yield.  I try to put my knots on the corners as well.  It works out well on hardwoods when sawing for grade. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Offline ljmathias

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2010, 09:54:42 PM »
JBritt: not to rain on your parade- love to see people expanding their capabilities- but your trailer won't hold many logs if they're green.  I just brought home a couple of pine logs on my 18' with twin axles that are oversize and it was feeling the load pretty good.  There's a calculator in the toolbox you can use to estimate weight- just be careful not to bow your axles- been there, done that.

Oh, and have fun!

Lj
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2010, 10:17:04 PM »
45o works well if you are leaving a cant.  My illustration was for sawing the entire log up into lumber.

In 8 years of sawing, I have never had a saw job where I left a cant.  My customers want all lumber, thus my reason for the post.  It was just to help new sawyers to understand what defects could be in a log and how to maximize the log's yield.

With the log that I sawed yesterday and again with the 31" Cherry log that I sawed today, if the defect had been oriented 45o there would not have been very much usable lumber because every board would have had that massive defect going through it.
 


I'll illustrate today's 31" Cherry log, which by the way, was well over 300 years old.
 


Log oriented with the check/crack vertical
 


The first face has been opened and the log turned 90o
 


The second face has been opened
 


The third face has been opened
 


Sawing is complete and the defect is contained within a couple of boards
A look at yesterday's post will show the type of defect that ran the entire length of the log.
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2010, 10:24:45 PM »
How long is your trailer?  I have a 6x10 with a 3500lb. axle.  I was concerned about the length but I suppose I could always take the gate off of the back when hauling longer pieces.  Does this sound "doable" to you?

No.  You need more trailer.  Hanging weight out the back will put a reverse load on your trailer tongue, cause severe sway, and can/will very easily wreck you..... >:(

My trailer is 18" which "might" allow me to haul 20' logs, but I never have.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2010, 10:48:32 PM »
One big advantage to sawing as magic has shown is you get wide boards. For those of us that do not have an edger handy it saves the step of edging all of the boards. Just be sure to align the pith so that it is straight to the saw cut from end to end to keep it contained. In the end whether you edge each board or pull a couple boards out of the center, you are still loosing the same amount of wood. For the tie and post markets the wood is not lost. 
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Offline captain_crunch

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2010, 11:28:31 PM »
M_M
What kinda critter knawed that tree down :D :D :D. Thanks for the information but yer saw cuts in the wrong plane for me to understand :D :D
Brian
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Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2010, 11:58:24 PM »
It does have kind of an abstract art to it, kind of an early chain saw period from my beginning days look.  ;D
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Offline ljmathias

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #16 on: April 01, 2010, 07:19:30 AM »
That critter probably walked on two legs and has feelings... :D

Guess I wouldn't be so worried about what the butt end looks like if it fell the right way, no damage to life or limb (both on the remaining trees and the critter cutting the tree down).

Nice work, MM- maybe we need some basic tutorial threads like Jim has set up on the timber framing forum, hey?  Would be great to have a set of permanent references to skills we all need (and many don't have, like me).  Example: just read some of the cautionary statements about tree climbing and limbing/topping- makes me re-think jumping into the climbing harness I bought and trying to top trees: way too dangerous without formal training.

Lj
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #17 on: April 01, 2010, 07:47:38 AM »
Just be sure to align the pith so that it is straight to the saw cut from end to end to keep it contained.

Exactly right.  In this instance before I opened the second face, I aligned the  pith 15" from the deck on both ends.  Thanks Backwoods, very important note.
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Offline brdmkr

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #18 on: April 01, 2010, 09:06:01 AM »
MM,

I don't have a band mill, but I still find it interesting to see how other tackle problems.  This has been a really interesting post.

Mike
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Offline JBritt

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Re: Log Setup
« Reply #19 on: April 01, 2010, 09:25:30 AM »
How long is your trailer?  I have a 6x10 with a 3500lb. axle.  I was concerned about the length but I suppose I could always take the gate off of the back when hauling longer pieces.  Does this sound "doable" to you?

No.  You need more trailer.  Hanging weight out the back will put a reverse load on your trailer tongue, cause severe sway, and can/will very easily wreck you..... >:(

My trailer is 18" which "might" allow me to haul 20' logs, but I never have.

10-4!


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