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Author Topic: Lucas Mill Questions  (Read 23361 times)

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Offline Nomad

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Re: Lucas Mill Questions
« Reply #120 on: February 18, 2015, 05:57:20 PM »
I'm going to try it, but a couple things worry me. If I use a cordless drill, its going to burn out the motor, clutch, or both. If I use a cordless impact, which is designed for high torque applications, then the constant impact action will eventually strip out the internal components on the cranks. I big, 1/2" electric drill would probably work, but thats only good if youre working next to an outlet. I would love a 12v setup that runs off a battery.
     I'm going to try it too, but I agree with you about the cordless impact.  I think the hammering action would be a bad idea.  It would also be extremely fast!  I bet the cordless drill on low speed will work just fine though.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
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Lucas DSM23-19

Online terrifictimbersllc

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Re: Lucas Mill Questions
« Reply #121 on: February 18, 2015, 06:01:22 PM »
I faced the same quandary with my bandsaw blade setter.  I can use my Milwaukee 28V cordless drill to turn it, but it requires concentration to get the right speed and not be hit by the handle (which I suppose I can take off but didn't want to).  And then there's the question how long will my drill last doing this.  I suppose I could also worry about my arm. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Offline sigidi

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Re: Lucas Mill Questions
« Reply #122 on: February 19, 2015, 03:55:33 PM »
You gotta remember to remove the nylock and add a second nut, use a 12 point socket so it spreads the load over both nuts. Dudley said they found leaving the nylock left  on alone stripped the threads.

I used to have a cordless with a two stage gearbox, low torque-hi speed and high torque-low speed (used it for driving in batten screws) it would eat this easy, but some mongrel stole it.

As for making sure you miss the handle, add an extension bar...
Always willing to help - Allan

Offline JohnM

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Re: Lucas Mill Questions
« Reply #123 on: February 20, 2015, 09:36:52 AM »
I'm going to try it, but a couple things worry me. If I use a cordless drill, its going to burn out the motor, clutch, or both. If I use a cordless impact, which is designed for high torque applications, then the constant impact action will eventually strip out the internal components on the cranks. I big, 1/2" electric drill would probably work, but thats only good if youre working next to an outlet. I would love a 12v setup that runs off a battery.
     I'm going to try it too, but I agree with you about the cordless impact.  I think the hammering action would be a bad idea.  It would also be extremely fast!  I bet the cordless drill on low speed will work just fine though.
Was thinking the same thing about the impact driver and I've been wanting a 'standard' drill driver for a while anyway http://www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XFD03Z  ;D  Two birds and all that.  Course I can't even see the rails of my Lucas atm under all this snow.  With a dwindling firewood pile and maple syrup season coming right up (I think!? ::)) the drill and Lucas will have to wait.  Thanks for the idea, Sig!
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Offline CaseyK

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Re: Lucas Mill Questions
« Reply #124 on: February 28, 2015, 05:32:25 AM »
Logboy asked me to comment on this thread.

I am building a twin blade saw utilizing 1"acme rods for the raise and lower and 5/8"amce rods for the left / right positioning of the saw axis, the motor and saw carriage to be moved left and right weighs around 900lbs and then the frame that it rest on that goes up and down weighs an additional 2-300lbs.
After digging thru a lot of forumn post and internet post I decided to go with wheelchair motors as my power source, they are cheap on ebay and already have a right angle gear box reducer that drops the rpm down typically  to around 130 rpm and they have built in 24v brakes that will hold the load. Note: if you can find a local wheelchair repair shop you can ask them about which motors have American size shafts, most have 17mm with a 6mm keyway that can not easily be converted to a SAE size. I had to have my adapters made at a machine shop.
I tried using cheap 24v PWM controllers from china but they weren't up for the task so now I have ordered the following:
Speed Control DC Motor 32 Amp Minarik XP32-12/24DC with manual off of ebay, they cost around $80-100 delivered, ordered a minark heat sink $30 off ebay.
If you didn't want the extra cost then of the controller then you could just wire the wheelchair motor up using 2 relays, AB 700 relays off ebay run around 10 dollars each, let one relay do the start stop and the other relay be wired in as a Hbridge to swap the polarity going to the wheelchair motor and change direction. When running without speed control you would have to change the gearing down slow enough to be able to accurately position carriage or lift.
By using the speed controller you have lots of additional functionality such as accel / decal ramps, ir comp to adjust for load fluctuations, and torque limit.
I am presently offshore but have got all my parts ordered and they should be home waiting for me March 5th.
My application is non typical because I will have a AB clx plc with motion control cards controlling the saw axis's with encoder feedback. I will post videos as soon as im up and running.
Home built automated twin blade

Offline sigidi

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Re: Lucas Mill Questions
« Reply #125 on: February 28, 2015, 02:57:43 PM »
I'm pleased about the video Casey, coz I didn't understand any of that, I'm just a sawmiller :-D
Always willing to help - Allan


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